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FROM THE PONTE DELLE GUGLIE ACROSS THE GHETTO
From the station, turn left into the Lista di and already there’s a first chance to indulge at the Pasticceria Dal Mas (1) which dates back to 1853. At the counter, order an espresso or a caffè d’orzo macchiato (a barley-based ‘coffee’ with a small amount of milk froth served in a small or large cup) and take away some typical Venetian cakes (focaccia, zaletti, esse, bucellati, pan dei dogi, torta veneziana …) with you.
Once past the Ponte delle Guglie, turn left towards Il Ghetto (the Jewish quarter). A brief stop at Panificio Giovanni Volpi (2) (Volpi bakery), which makes matzo crackers and traditional certified Kosher biscuits (no salt, yeast or animal fats). Try the azimo dolce with fennel seeds and the round zuccherino. In the central square of the Ghetto, called the ‘Campo del Ghetto Nuovo’, you can visit the Jewish museum and the synagogues.
For an aperitif, leave the square via the bridge and turn right onto the Fondamenta degli Ormesini. You will find Al Timon (3) (part of Venice’s nightlife takes place in this Fondamenta, as well as in the Fondamenta Misericordia). Take advantage of the tables placed outside when the weather is fine. At the counter you will find a good selection of cicheti. If you decide to sit down at a table, you should know that this is one of the rare places in Venice that sells chargrilled meat.
For a simple and economical lunch, turn left after the Ghetto bridge into the Fondamenta delle Cappuccine, far from the tourist flow. In this working-class neighbourhood, don’t miss the Alle due gondolette (4) restaurant, which serves more than respectable family cooking. Try the baccalà mantecato or the baccalà alla vicentina.
Continue your promenade to the right, towards the Campo dei Mori (don’t miss the statues of eighteenth-century merchants).
For dinner, let me take you to a very enjoyable spot … On the Fondamenta degli Ormesini, take the Calle de la Malvasia. After the little bridge, you will find Anice Stellato (5) on the right. When the weather is fine, you can eat outside in total tranquillity. The restaurant is also very pleasant inside. Franca, the chef, and her team will take very good care of you. The menu changes every day. You have to try the frittura of fish and vegetables! At night, you can enjoy a last drink in one of the bars of the Fondamenta della Misericordia.
FROM THE PONTE DELLE GUGLIE TO THE STRADA NUOVA.
At the Ponte delle Guglie, go straight ahead down Rio Terrà San Leonardo. You will go past the fruit and vegetable stalls of the market in Campo San Leonardo. After you’ve done your shopping, have a quick coffee in one of the last torrefaziones (coffee roasters) in Venice: Torrefazione Marchi (6). Try the caffè della Sposa (made with one of the best arabica beans), or buy 200 g (7 oz) freshly ground costarica. Continue on to the Strada Nuova. Stop in the Campo San Felice. With its outside tables, La Cantina (7) (‘the cellar’) alone is worth a stop whatever the time of day. As its name suggests, it’s a place to drink good wine, but also a house beer, Morgana. Let Francesco advise you. He prepares high quality, market-driven dishes such as his plate of raw and cooked fish with crisp seasonal vegetables.
Cross the street opposite La Cantina towards the Fondamenta San Felice, where you should eat at least once at Vini Da Gigio (8). This little restaurant of exceptional quality is my latest crush. It offers traditional dishes with great freshness. Laura has taken over from her mother in the kitchen. Her brother Paolo will advise you on wines. The restaurant houses a cellar that’s well stocked with both local wines and wines from elsewhere. Try their grappa as well. On the food front, I suggest you try … everything! Still, don’t miss the baccalà croquettes, the roast eel or the duck alla buranella (served in autumn and winter). Make sure you book in advance. It is easier to find a seat at Antica Adelaide (9), a larger and simpler restaurant in the same neighbourhood. It’s an ‘historic tavern’ (osteria antica). To find it, cross the Nuovo San Felice bridge and turn left, then left again after the Campo and follow the Calle Priuli. The young owner and chef Alvise serves very honest local cuisine. I loved his tagliatelle al ragù di castrato (mutton), which reminded me of my grandmother’s.
Returning back up the Strada Nuova, just opposite the yellow sign for the Cà D’Oro palace, in the little Calle del Pistor alleyway, is a historic and picturesque bàcaro-trattoria that has two names: Alla Vedova and Cà D’Oro (10). This is a real institution. People jostle at the counter to get to its cicheti (mouthfuls to eat with drinks). Try the meatballs, the artichoke hearts and the sardines in saor. Remember that while cicheti are enjoyed as a bite with drinks, they can also play the role of lunch or dinner. At the nearby Campo Santa Sofia, take the gondola to the opposite bank, which is to say to the Rialto where there’s a market in the morning. (fare: 2 per person for non-residents). Be careful not to fall into the water!
