IL RISOTTO

THE BASIC RECIPE

Risotto rice has been grown on the Po Plain in northern Italy for centuries. Vialone Nano is a typical Veneto variety, ideal for very ‘wet’ risottos, which is to say all’onda (when you tilt the plate, the risotto slides to the edge forming a wave … un’onda!). Ask for Vialone Nano rice from your Italian grocer. Otherwise, use the Carnaroli variety rather than Arborio, which doesn’t hold up as well to cooking.

SERVES 6 PREPARATION TIME : 10 MINUTES COOKING TIME: 30 MINUTES

1.8 litres (63 fl oz) meat or vegetable stock

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) rice (preferably Vialone Nano)

2¹/₂ tablespoons dry white wine, or stock

30 g (1 oz) cold butter, or 1¹/₂ tablespoons olive oil

60 g (2¹/₄ oz) parmesan cheese, grated (half this amount for seafood risottos)

Heat the stock and keep it simmering on the stove. Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan on medium heat, add the onion and cook gently for 5 minutes, or until softened. Add the rice and stir for about 2–3 minutes on medium heat with a wooden spoon: it will become translucent. Don’t allow it to colour. Add the wine or stock and stir until it is completely evaporated. Season with salt. Add a ladleful of very hot stock and stir as it is absorbed by the rice. Continue to add stock by the ladleful, allowing it to be absorbed by the rice, stirring often. While it cooks, add ingredients depending on the recipe you are using. Season with salt. After cooking for 15–18 minutes, the risotto should be ready. Check the texture and seasoning: the risotto should remain wet and the grains firm. Add a little more stock if needed. Off the heat, incorporate the cold butter in pieces and the parmesan, and stir vigorously for 1 minute (in Italian, this step is called mantecare). Cover and let the risotto stand for 2 minutes before serving.

FOR THE STOCK

– vegetable stock: boil 2 litres (70 fl oz/8 cups) of water with 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 celery stalks, 2 leeks and some salt, cook for 40 minutes to 1 hour, then strain.

– meat stock: add to the basic vegetable stock 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) beef short ribs, a boiling hen, or some chicken thighs and cook for 2 hours. Skim and degrease the stock. Otherwise, use organic or MSG and flavour enhancer–free stock cubes.

– fish stock: sauté 2 sliced onions and 2 sliced leeks in a saucepan in 2 tablespoons olive oil for 5 minutes on medium heat. Add 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) well-cleaned fish trimmings (the fishmonger will give them to you), a bouquet garni and some white peppercorns. Add 2 litres (70 fl oz/8 cups) of cold water, bring to the boil, skim and cook on medium heat for 30 minutes. Adjust the seasoning and strain. Otherwise, use a concentrated fish stock without flavour enhancers.