NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN

PREPARING LOBSTER FOR PAN-ROASTING

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1. Freeze the lobster for 5 to 10 minutes to sedate it. Plunge a chef’s knife into the body at the point where the shell forms a “T” to kill the lobster. Move the blade straight down through the head.

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2. Turn the lobster around and, while holding the upper body with one hand, cut through the body toward the tail.

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3. Remove and discard the stomach and intestinal tract. Reserve the green tomalley for the sauce, if desired.

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4. Cut the tail from the body.

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5. Twist off the claws from the body. Remove the rubber bands from the claws. (Don’t be put off if the lobster continues to twitch a little; it’s a reflexive movement.)