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NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN

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MAKING CRISPY SMASHED POTATOES

You can smash each potato by hand with a potato masher, but we found that a baking sheet smashes the potatoes all at once.

1. After rolling the cooled, oven-steamed potatoes in olive oil, space the potatoes evenly on the baking sheet and place a second baking sheet on top; press down uniformly on the baking sheet until the potatoes are roughly ⅓ to ½ inch thick.

2. Sprinkle the smashed potatoes with the thyme leaves and season generously with salt and pepper; drizzle evenly with the remaining 3 tablespoons oil. Roast as directed.