NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN

MAKING A FOIL COLLAR

Baking our individual chocolate soufflés from the freezer gives them a high rise and a domed top, just as we like them. But placing a collar around the ramekins yields an even higher rise with an iconic, perfectly flat top.

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Secure a strip of foil that has been sprayed with vegetable oil spray around each ramekin so that it extends 2 inches above the rim (do this after the ramekins have been filled). You can tape the foil collar to the dish to prevent it from slipping.