When I was a sixteen-year-old cook learning recipes at culinary school in Barcelona, nothing grabbed my attention more than vichyssoise. A French soup of cooked leeks and potatoes that was served cold? I was fascinated by the idea. And I’ve loved leeks ever since then. This dish reminds me of one of those decadent sides you’d find at a steakhouse, right next to the monster porterhouse and crispy potatoes. And nobody would blame you for going in that direction—I’ve done it myself many times—but I actually think this stands very strong on its own as a light dinner with a small salad and glass of wine. The toasted panko topping is one of those simple but genius moves that make all the difference (like the fried onions on top of that green bean casserole). Use them anytime you want to add a final layer of crunch to a dish.
SERVES 4
4 to 6 medium-large leeks, white and light green parts only, cleaned and sliced crosswise ¾ inch thick
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups heavy cream
4 sprigs thyme
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
TOPPING
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
Kosher salt
Arrange the leeks in a single layer in a large skillet, drizzle with the olive oil, and cook over medium heat until sizzling. Add the heavy cream, thyme sprigs, and a pinch of salt and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and simmer the leeks gently, shaking the pan from time to time and basting any exposed leeks with cream, until the leeks are meltingly tender and coated in a silky, thickened sauce, about 25 minutes.
WHILE THE LEEKS COOK, MAKE THE TOPPING
Heat the olive oil in a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the panko and stir constantly until uniformly and richly browned, about 4 minutes. Scrape the panko onto a plate and season lightly with salt.
When the leeks are cooked, remove and discard the thyme sprigs and season the sauce with salt and pepper. Let stand for a few minutes off the heat before serving.
Spoon the creamed leeks onto plates and top with the crispy panko.