I woke up stiff. I know how that might sound, but I actually couldn’t move my limbs very well. This made it easier to designate today a workday. We lounged on our porch all morning, writing and listening to music before taking a Greek salad break around 2:00 p.m. As soon as we began the descent down the 150-step staircase, I felt the sun pressing on the sensitive spots on my skin like pressure points. I must have gotten burned yesterday, I thought while popping my collar to cover my neck. The truth was, I had not looked at a mirror in days. What was the point? I wasn’t shaving, and my hair was going to be soaked in the sea soon enough.
I realized as I walked down the steps that I was sporting a Hawaiian shirt with its collar popped, free plastic sunglasses that happened to be red, and swim trunks only covering half my thighs. I was officially the biggest asshole on the island, taking the crown from the guy who checked that the people at the cabanas actually belonged to the resort.
We had reservations at a restaurant tonight. That’s right, a real restaurant. Last night when we’d returned the kayak, Narissa let us know about a reservation-only restaurant at the end of the cove. It was for people who were staying in the resort, but she told us that we could just walk up there and tell them we were in Villa 2 and they wouldn’t ask questions. She was right.
Once we were both dressed up, we strolled down the steps and followed the path along the water, stopping at the restaurant rather than continuing to Bronze Boob Bay. They showed us to one of only eight tables overlooking the sea. We could see the entire cove of Kolocep from our elevated seats.
As the sun disappeared past the horizon, so did our budget. We ordered a nice bottle of Croatian wine and inhaled the complimentary homemade bread the waiter had brought over as soon as he turned away. I realized this was our first real “date” of the trip. Obviously, every night was a date, but we’d made reservations here. That made it feel more real. I can’t remember being on a date with Ash where she was as carefree as she was right then. Her unkempt hair blowing in the soft breeze and makeup-less face glowing with natural beauty.
Ash was gazing at the sunset, her camera in hand, and an English couple next to us must have noticed because the gentlemen leaned over and asked, “Would you guys like a picture?” He and his wife smiled.
Stephen and Diane were celebrating Diane’s fifty-fifth birthday and her retirement. She had worked at a university in Newcastle, England, and this was her first holiday on her own time. Stephen had been retired for the last three years and was happy to have her finally join him. They were such a charming couple, and they were extremely intrigued by our traveling story. Our date turned into a four-person dinner, and we couldn’t have been happier to share a meal with these folks. Diane and Stephen finished their meal before us, and we thanked them for their company and for letting us share in their dual celebration.
Then a younger couple sat down at the table next to us. We recognized them from the bar the night before. (With one bar on the island, it was easy to spot familiar faces.) When the man ordered the catch of the day, they brought him the fish on a platter to inspect. It was clearly fresh out of the water, and it looked amazing in its raw form. It was hard for us not to look on, and before long, we started talking to them as well. The wine had made us extremely friendly.
Neil and Bryony were from Loch Ness, Scotland. (Yes, the home of the famous monster. No, they have not seen it. Yes, of course we asked.) They were our age and like-minded. They were active travelers who enjoyed beer and adventures. Each couple finished their respective bottles of wine, and we chatted until the restaurant closed. They were staying at the resort (actually staying there), and told us we could probably sneak into the bar area and drink with them for free if we wanted to tag along. It was an all-inclusive resort.
We strolled back to their resort, a pep in our step that only comes from the combination of new friends and good wine. Sure enough, we walked right in, and I put on my Of course, I belong here; don’t even think about asking me face. (The same one I’d given the bouncer in Amsterdam.) They told us they had booked a kayak tour for tomorrow and were not really looking forward to it. We convinced them we could be better tour guides than the resort staff, and they canceled their excursion so they could accompany us. We then swapped phone numbers and somehow ended the night watching hippo attacks on YouTube. This was when I knew we would be great friends.