APPLES HAVE BEEN CULTIVATED IN IRELAND for over 3,000 years. Legend has it that Saint Patrick planted apple trees and famously did so at Ceangoba, an ancient community not far east of Armagh. Laws from that civilization, dating back to around 1000 BC, prescribed punishment for cutting them down. Ireland’s oldest apple varietal, the Bramley, still enjoys the soil and climate around County Armagh, known as Orchard Country.
This recipe is one my mum made every September at apple harvest time. Bramleys contain a high level of natural pectin and a lovely tartness. If you can’t lay your hands on these, Granny Smiths or another tart apple will do nicely. The infusion of rosemary deepens the apple-y flavor, making it lovely with roast pork.
Jam sugar, also called gelling sugar (not to be confused with preserving sugar, which contains no pectin and simply has a larger grain), contains the correct amount of natural pectin that is lacking in certain fruits. It’s readily found in most supermarkets and at some greengrocers. It helps jellies, such as my Bramley and Rosemary, set quickly so they retain their fresh fruity flavor and natural color.
MAKES ABOUT
8 CUPS / 2 LITERS JELLY
5 large Bramley or other tart cooking apples, quartered (no need to peel or core)
20 small sprigs rosemary, plus 1 tablespoon rosemary leaves, divided
Cider vinegar, as needed
Granulated sugar, as needed
Jam sugar, as needed (see headnote)
In a large saucepan over high heat, combine the apples, rosemary, and 2½ cups / 595 milliliters of water in a large pan. Bring the mixture to a boil, then simmer it for an hour, stirring occasionally. After an hour, remove it from the heat and allow it to cool.
Set a large, clean basin or mixing bowl on the floor and place a jelly bag, if you have one, or a bag fashioned out of a single layer of cheesecloth, open inside it. Pour the cooked mixture into the jelly bag or into the middle of the cloth. Tie the jelly bag, or gather the ends of the cheesecloth together using kitchen twine, and suspend it with strong string over the basin from a long, wooden spoon propped across the backs of two chairs, allowing the juice to drip through overnight. Do not press the bag to release more liquid; it will make the jelly cloudy.
The next day, discard the contents of the jelly bag and measure the amount of juice (I had 7½ cups / 1.75 liters). For every 2½ cups / 595 milliliters of juice, add 2 tablespoons of the vinegar, 1¼ cups / 225 grams of the granulated sugar, and 1¼ cups / 225 grams of the jam sugar. (I added 6 tablespoons of vinegar, 3¾ cups / 870 grams of granulated sugar, and 3¾ cups / 870 grams of jam sugar.)
Combine the juice mixture in a large saucepan over high heat and add ½ tablespoon of the rosemary leaves, chopped. Heat to a boil and keep at a rolling boil, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes, or until the jelly begins to set.
Remove the jelly from the heat. Using a slotted spoon, scrape off any scum that has formed on the surface and discard. Gently stir in the remaining rosemary leaves. Test using the Spoon Test (see page 20) or Wrinkle Test (see page 20) and boil until the mixture thickens. Ladle into hot, sterilized jars (see page 17), leaving a ½-inch / 1.3-centimeter headspace, and seal using the hot water bath (see page 43) for 15 minutes. This should keep for up to 1 year in a cool, dark place, if properly sealed.
NOEL’S WAY
• Spread on a wheel of mild cheese, such as Fivemiletown Creamery’s smoked Brie, and serve with water crackers.
• Serve as a condiment with succulent, garlicky roast pork or lamb.
• Stir a tablespoon into gravy to heighten the flavor.
JAM, JELLY, PRESERVES, OR MARMALADE?
A question for the ages, it seems, one might ask, “Is this spread jam, jelly, preserves, or marmalade?” when presented with a lovely sweet or savory topping to spoon out onto a hot and yeasty slice of toast. Food writer and home cook May Byron tells us, “After long and careful investigation, I find it impossible to differentiate between jams and marmalades.” She attempts to put us at our ease by declaring in her 1917 May Byron’s Jam Book that she thinks it’s wisest not to discriminate. “If any recipe calls a thing jam, marmalade, or preserve, I shall follow suit.” By that or any other name, “’twill taste as sweet.”