TO ME, ROSE HIPS ARE A GIFT FROM GOD: They just show up and present themselves to you, no work required: more evidence that living off the fat of the land is a brilliant way to conduct life. In my home, we scoop the ashes from our coal-burning fireplace and sprinkle them on the rose bushes to help them grow strong. We’re regifted with not only a feast for the eyes but a nourishing and delicious treat as well. I wait until after autumn’s first frost to gather mine, when they’re more pliant and tender, then I set to work preparing them for vitamin C–rich teas and cooking syrup to stave off winter colds.
Don’t expect this syrup to taste like rose water. It leans more toward sharp and tangy, like hibiscus. In general, I like to rely on fruits themselves for natural pectin. In this case, I add packaged pectin because rose hips have just a trace amount naturally. Another quirk of the rose hips is the tannic acid in the seeds. If cooked into jams, jellies, or syrups, they’ll leave a chalky aftertaste. Best to slit the pods and scrape out the seeds with the tip of a paring knife, to remove them.
I like to drizzle this delicately hued, shimmering nectar over a warm wheel of Brie to serve with a crusty baguette, or to spoon it onto wheaten bread with butter, or onto waffles made with a whiff of cinnamon in the batter.
MAKES ABOUT
2½ CUPS / 600 MILLILITERS JELLY
4 cups dried rosehips, split open and seeds removed
2 cups / 235 milliliters white wine
1 level tablespoon powdered pectin
Pinch of salt
1¾ cups / 350 grams granulated sugar
In a large saucepan over medium heat, bring the rosehips, wine, and 3 cups / 700 milliliters of water to a rolling boil. Lower the heat to a simmer, cover loosely, and cook for 1 hour. Mash the softened rosehips to make a coarse purée in the liquid.
Transfer the purée to a very fine mesh strainer or to four layers of cheesecloth (tie into a bag), strain out all the liquid into a clean saucepan, and let it sit overnight. Do not squeeze out the remaining juice, as this will turn the syrup cloudy.
The following day, add the pectin, a big pinch of salt, and the sugar, and cook this mixture for 20 to 45 minutes, stirring constantly. Boil until the mixture thickens to the consistency of pancake syrup, and pour into hot, sterilized jars (see page 17), leaving a ½-inch / 1.3-centimeter headspace, and seal using the hot water bath (see page 43) for 15 minutes. This should keep for up to 1 year in a cool, dark place, if properly sealed.