SPICY LEMON CONFIT

TO MY EAR, THE PHRASE lemon confit sounds beautifully intricate and sophisticated, evoking images of sultans from faraway lands sitting at low tables, eating from silver trays. In fact, this lovely-to-have-on-hand condiment is remarkably simple and homespun. One trip to the local market yields everything you need to whip up this fragrant accompaniment to fish, chicken, or strong cheeses with olives.

MAKES ABOUT

2 CUPS / 450 GRAMS CONFIT

3 large lemons

¼ cup / 50 grams kosher salt

1 sprig fresh rosemary

4 leaves fresh basil

1 sprig fresh oregano

1 small mild chile pepper

(such as a banana pepper or an Anaheim)

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

Rapeseed or canola oil

Half-fill a medium saucepan with water and bring it to a rolling boil. Place the lemons in a metal colander and submerge them in the saucepan, then run them under cold water, to blanch them. Repeat this 3 times to reduce the bitterness of the peel. Slice the lemons, peel and all, into ⅛-inch / 3-centimeter-thick rounds. Layer the lemon slices and the kosher salt in a nonreactive bowl, cover, and leave at room temperature overnight.

The next day, chop the rosemary, basil, oregano, and the chile pepper finely and place them in a large mixing bowl. Add the peppercorns, paprika, and sugar, and toss until mixed. In clean, prepared jars, layer the salted lemon with spoons full of the spice mixture, leaving a ½-inch / 1.3-centimeter headspace at the top of the jars. Store in the refrigerator for up to 1 month, keeping the lemons covered completely in oil. For longer-term storage, freeze for up to 6 months.

NOEL’S WAY

• Warm a tablespoon of lemon confit with 3 tablespoons of butter, and serve on the side as a sauce for broiled fish.

• Spread the confit on sliced rounds of baguette, top with goat cheese and fresh thyme, and broil. Served the croutons atop fresh spinach salad with bacon.

• Toss chickpeas and pitted olives together with olive oil, red wine vinegar, and a pinch of sea salt. Stir in a liberal spoonful of the lemon confit, and serve with warm pita bread.