TRADITIONAL IRISH SODA BREAD

THE PROVERB, “GIVE A MAN A FISH and you’ll feed him for a day; teach a man to fish and you’ll feed him for a lifetime,” was given proper weight in my family. I’m filled with gratitude that my parents gave me practical tools for life, such as how to plant a drill of potatoes or rhubarb, how to pick blackberries, how to preserve by hand, how to organize and tidy a kitchen. Learning to cook has provided me with hours of pleasure, proud independence, and a living I love. I’ve spent a lot of time in the kitchen with my niece Gemma, trying to pass on what her gran and granddad taught me. One of our first lessons was soda bread: a simple and somewhat fail-proof challenge. I’m proud to say she mastered it in a flash, and we’ve since moved on to more complicated lessons. It’s a joy to watch the confident ownership she shows when cooking meals for the whole family.

MAKES

1 ROUND MEDIUM-SIZE LOAF OR 4 FARLS

2 cups / 280 grams all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon cream of tartar

1 heaping teaspoon / 10 grams baking soda

1 cup / 236 milliliters buttermilk

Olive oil or rapeseed oil, for oiling pan

In a large mixing bowl, combine all the dry ingredients. Using your hand, make a well in the flour and pour in the buttermilk. Mix lightly with a fork until a sticky dough is formed, being careful not to overwork it.

Turn out the dough onto a very well floured surface and form it into a ball. If the dough is extremely sticky, flour your hands or sprinkle a small amount of flour onto the top. Knead gently 3 or 4 times. Form the dough into a ball, flatten it to about ½-inch / 1.3-centimeters thick, and cut it into quarters.

In a hot, lightly oiled iron skillet (pour in enough oil to just coat the bottom), cook the bread over medium heat for about 8 minutes, allowing it to brown slightly. Then turn it once and continue to cook for about 8 minutes, until the bread is barely browned on both sides and makes a hollow sound when tapped. Store in a breadbox or an airtight tin for up to 5 days.