YOU KNOW THE OLD SAYING, “If life gives you lemons, make lemonade.” That’s how I feel about green tomatoes. Sure, I could try all the tricks to ripen them: cut half a ripe tomato and set it under my plants; put the green ones in a paper bag with a ripe apple; harvest regularly, taking care not to pick them before they’ve matured and are sure never to ripen.
Rather than have a zebra change its stripes, I like to appreciate nature’s gifts for what they are. When it became clear to my mum and dad that my twin brothers, Owen and John, who’d endured a difficult birth, wouldn’t walk, talk, and learn like other children, they changed their expectations. Instead of fretting over fitting them into a mold or pattern, they found ways to help my brothers develop what is unique, special, and precious about them. Our parents taught the rest of us to appreciate Owen and John for exactly what they are. Every day with them has been a gift.
So, when I hold a green tomato in my hand, I don’t waste hours wishing it were a red one. Instead, I focus on the firmness of its flesh, the pale yellow-green hue of its skin, the slightly tart flavor and the almost grassy aroma. Green tomatoes are simply different than red ones: not better, not worse. Different.
MAKES ABOUT
2 PINTS / 950 MILLILITERS KETCHUP
¾ cup / 180 milliliters cider vinegar
2 tablespoons mustard seeds
1 tablespoon allspice berries
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
2 whole cloves
1 teaspoon dried red chile flakes
1 mild chile pepper (such as a banana pepper), seeded and minced
1 bay leaf
2 sticks cinnamon
2 medium-size white onions, chopped
1 stalk celery, chopped
5 sweet peppers, seeded and minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
8 medium-size green tomatoes, chopped
½ cup / 90 grams light brown sugar, packed
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon Tabasco sauce
In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar, mustard seeds, allspice, coriander seeds, cloves, chile flakes, chile pepper, bay leaf, and cinnamon sticks and bring to a boil. Cook for 1 minute, then remove from the heat and set aside.
In a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat, fry the onions, celery, and sweet peppers in the olive oil until soft, adding the garlic for the last minute of cooking, being careful not to overbrown it. Add the tomatoes, and the brown sugar, and 1 cup / 240 milliliters of water to the vegetables and continue to cook over medium heat, stirring regularly, until the tomatoes soften and fall apart and the mixture starts to get bubbly and foamy. Lower the heat to low and simmer the mixture for an hour, stirring occasionally.
Using a colander with large holes, strain out the large pieces from the now-cool vinegar mixture and discard. Pour the vinegar mixture into the pot that contains the tomato mixture. Purée the sauce with a stick blender, or blend or process in small batches in a blender or food processor. Continue to cook the thinned sauce for another 30 minutes, or until you like the consistency. Add the salt, pepper, and Tabasco sauce.
Ladle into hot, sterilized jars (see page 17) and store in the refrigerator for up to 4 weeks.