HOW TO SET A CHRISTMAS CAKE OR PUDDING ALIGHT


Ferrying a flaming dessert to an eager table of merrymakers takes a bit of care, but the result is well worth it: You can expect cheers and gasps, especially when blazed as an antidote to the long, dark evenings of winter. This technique is commonly used for a traditional Christmas pudding, but feel free to light up any sturdy, heavy dessert—such as pound cake or fruitcake—that would benefit from absorbing some warming spirits.

Once your dessert is plated on a heatproof platter with no paper decorations on it, warm a small cup of brandy, whiskey, or other spirit in a small saucepan over direct heat (make sure the handle is heatproof, and that you’re holding it with a pot holder), and, as soon as the liquid is hot, ask someone to set light to it. Holding the dessert in your weaker hand, and the flaming saucepan in your stronger hand, put the bottom of the saucepan on top of the pudding or dessert and rest it there. Do not pour it out yet!

Walk carefully to the table, and, once you’ve the attention of all present (and guests’ hair and clothing are well clear!), slowly pour the fiery spirits over the dessert, taking care to drizzle it down the sides, and watch it flame. Feel free to bask in the glow of your masterpiece for a moment or two. When the flames and hurrahs come to an end, serve the pudding with Honeyed Whiskey Butter (page 34), or a nice rum sauce.