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Martina McBride sold T-shirts for Garth Brooks one year; the next year she was the opening act on his tour.
Ballet. Symphony. Museums. Broadway musicals. Opera. Independent film. Dance clubs. Spectator sports. Nashville has it all … and more. These are essential elements of a thriving arts scene befitting a city with the nickname “Athens of the South.” Recent years have seen a steady growth in the number of arts groups busily creating new works or new interpretations of old favorites. That's not surprising because Nashville has long been a magnet for creative, energetic people. If there's a downside to all the activity, it may well be that the abundance of artistic and cultural opportunities can lead to difficulty in making a decision. The area's arts scene is rapidly changing, too.
BELMONT UNIVERSITY SCHOOL OF MUSIC, 1900 Belmont Blvd., Nashville, TN 37212; (615) 460-6000; belmont.edu/music. Belmont's comprehensive music program offers studies in diverse music styles, and its free solo and group concerts cover a wide range as well, from classical and jazz to bluegrass and rock. Camerata Musicale, a chamber music ensemble created in 1987, performs several times a year in the Belmont Mansion. Other groups, including the Belmont Concert Band and the University Orchestra, perform at various locations on campus. Student showcases are often an opportunity to catch the stars of tomorrow before they're famous—Trisha Yearwood, Brad Paisley, and Lee Ann Womack are just a few graduates of the Belmont's music business program. Most performances are held in the Massey Performing Arts Center, which includes the 999-seat Massey Concert Hall and 100-seat Harton Recital Hall.
BLAIR SCHOOL OF MUSIC, 2400 Blakemore Ave., Nashville, TN 37212; (615) 322-7651; vanderbilt.edu. The Blair School of Music at Vanderbilt University presents more than 100 free concerts each year by groups including the Vanderbilt Orchestra, Chamber Choir, Symphonic Wind Ensemble, Opera Theatre, and Jazz Band as well as the Nashville Youth Symphony, a precollege orchestra of community youth. Performances are held at Steve and Judy Turner Recital Hall, Ingram Hall, and Langford Auditorium campus.
Nashville & the Bottle: A Continuing Saga
Nashville, a town often associated with cry-in-your-beer songs, has long had a love–hate relationship with “the bottle.” Decades before Merle Haggard bemoaned the fact that tonight the bottle let him down, locals had waged battle—literally shedding blood in one infamous landmark case—over alcohol sales.
Travelers during the last quarter of the 19th century knew Nashville as a wild, swinging, “anything-goes” kind of place. Downtown was home to a number of upscale saloons and gambling establishments.
During these years, naturally, many religious leaders and others objected to the drinking, gambling, and carrying on that transpired in the riverfront district. In 1885 steamboat captain Thomas Ryman was persuaded to close the bars and gambling dens on his boats after hearing the exhortations of traveling evangelist Sam Jones. Ryman was so moved by the spirit—and away from the spirits—in fact, that he donated money for a tabernacle. (This building, which now bears the captain's name, later became the home of the Grand Ole Opry and is now a popular auditorium for a variety of musical performances. During most shows, ironically, alcoholic drinks are sold in the lobby.)
Anti-alcohol sentiment picked up during the early 1900s, and one of the most vocal prohibitionists was Edward Ward “Ned” Carmack, editor of the Tennessean newspaper. On November 9, 1908, Carmack was shot to death downtown by Duncan B. Cooper and his son, Robin, who objected to the editor's often-strident stance. The two were convicted and sentenced to 20 years in prison, but Governor Malcolm Patterson, a friend of the Coopers, pardoned them. The resulting furor helped prompt the passage of a statewide prohibition law that took effect in July 1909. Despite the law, enforcement was often lax, due in part to corruption by local and state officials who disagreed with the ban.
Prohibition remained a controversial political issue throughout the next decade, and one mayor, Hilary E. Howse, was forced to resign from office in 1916 because of his failure to enforce it. He later was reelected.
One side effect of Prohibition was the birth of the downtown area known as Printers Alley. The alley gradually became a hot spot for speakeasies where illegal alcohol was sold. Prohibition in Tennessee, as nationwide, ended with the 1933 passage of the 21st Amendment.
DAVID LIPSCOMB UNIVERSITY DEPARTMENT OF MUSIC, 1 University Park Dr., Nashville, TN 37204; (800) 333-4358; lipscomb.edu/music.Lipscomb's Department of Music presents concerts by soloists and groups, including the A Cappella Singers, who perform sacred music; the Jazz Band, which performs 4 concerts a year; the Lipscomb University String Ensemble; and the Early Music Consort, which combines medieval and Renaissance music with ethnic styles from around the world. Admission is free to student performances. For performances by touring artists or name performers—there are about 3 of those each year—a ticket is required.
NASHVILLE OPERA ASSOCIATION, 3622 Redmon St., Nashville, TN 37209; (615) 832-5242; nashvilleopera.org. Nashville Opera, founded in 1980, merged with Tennessee Opera Theatre in September 1997 to form the Nashville Opera Association. That umbrella group now consists of the Nashville Opera, which produces professional, full-scale operas; Tennessee Opera Theatre, an education division that trains young singers and promotes local talent; and the Nashville Opera Guild, a group of 400 fund-raising and promotional volunteers. The opera season runs Oct through Apr, during which 4 productions are staged. Performances are held at TPAC's Polk Theater and Jackson Hall.
THE NASHVILLE SYMPHONY, Schermerhorn Symphony Center, 1 Symphony Place, Nashville, TN 37201; (615) 687-6400; nashvillesymphony.org. The Nashville Symphony, the largest performing arts organization in Tennessee, puts on more than 200 concerts—ranging from classical and Pops series to children's concerts and special events—during its 37-week season. It also performs with the Nashville Ballet and the Nashville Opera (see previous entries). The Schermerhorn Symphony Center opened in September 2006 at Fourth Avenue S., across from the Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum. The number of performances has increased substantially now that the symphony has moved into its new home.
NASHVILLE BALLET, 3630 Redmon St., Nashville, TN 37209; (615) 297-2966; nashvilleballet.com. Nashville Ballet, founded in 1981 as a nonprofit civic dance company, became a professional company in 1986. Nashville Ballet, which has an affiliated School of Nashville Ballet, serves the community with varied educational and outreach programs. Children's ballet performances entertain and educate youth through artistic presentations in an interactive setting. The Nashville School of Ballet offers youth and adult classes to the community in ballet and modern dance. Beginner to advanced levels are available.
You'll find an abundance of theatrical opportunities in Nashville, ranging from professional companies to amateur and dinner theater to children's shows. We've included some of the more visible groups, but independents are always popping up, so keep your eyes open.
ACT I, 4610 Charlotte Ave., Nashville, TN 37209; (615) 726-2282; act1online.com. ACT I, a group of local artists—the acronym stands for “Artists Cooperative Theater”—performs a varied selection of classic and contemporary plays at the Darkhorse Theater at 4610 Charlotte Ave. ACT I presents 3 to 5 productions each year, from Sept to May.
ACTORS BRIDGE ENSEMBLE, 4304-F Charlotte Ave., Nashville, TN 37209; (615) 498-4077; actorsbridge.com.What started in 1995 as a theatrical training program has evolved into a progressive professional theater company. Actors Bridge stages original and contemporary theatrical productions on various stages around town. As part of its mission, the nonprofit theater company aims to raise social consciousness and serve the community.
CHAFFIN'S BARN DINNER THEATRE, 8204 Hwy 100, Nashville, TN 37221; (615) 489-4267; dinnertheatre.com. Having opened in 1967, Chaffin's Barn is Nashville's oldest professional theater. For 1 price, you can enjoy an all-you-can-eat country buffet followed by a stage production. It could be Shakespeare, a musical, a mystery, or a comedy.
DAVID LIPSCOMB UNIVERSITY THEATER, 1 University Park Dr., Nashville, TN 37204; (615) 966-1000; lipscomb.edu/theater. Lipscomb University Theater stages several productions a year. They can vary from Shakespeare or other classics to musicals and new works. Productions are presented in the university's intimate 128-seat University Theater.
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The seasons of many concert and theater groups in Nashville run from Sept to Apr or May—roughly in line with school schedules.
LAKEWOOD THEATRE COMPANY INC., 2211 Old Hickory Blvd., Old Hickory, TN 37138; lakewoodtheatreco.com. Lakewood Theatre Company is a community theater group that maintains its own venue in a historic former bakery just down the street from Andrew Jackson's home, the Hermitage (see our Attractions chapter). The building is one of Davidson County's oldest and was renovated by the company in 1983. The company offers drama, comedy, and children's theater.
Darkhorse Theater
One of Nashville's most popular venues for live theater is the Darkhorse Theater, located at 4610 Charlotte Ave., across from Richland Park. The 136-seat alternative theater presents new works, classical theater, dance, film, live music, and multimedia shows. The venue is home to several performing arts groups, including ACT I and Actors Bridge Ensemble, and also hosts productions from groups such as Nashville Shakespeare Festival and People's Branch Theatre. For more information on the theater, its resident groups, and season schedule, visit the website www.darkhorsetheater.com or call the theater at (615) 297-7113.
NASHVILLE CHILDREN'S THEATRE, 25 Middleton St., Nashville, TN 37210; (615) 254-9103; nashvillechildrenstheatre.org. Established in 1931, NCT is the country's longest-running children's theater group. The not-for-profit group has been recognized internationally as a model for excellence in the field of theater for young audiences and has received numerous awards. The theater holds after-school and in-school workshops and a summer drama day camp. The theater has been ranked 1 of the top 5 in the United States by Time magazine.
THE NASHVILLE SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL, 161 Rains Ave., Nashville, TN 37203; (615) 255-2273; nashvilleshakes.org. The Nashville Shakespeare Festival is dedicated to producing the plays of the Bard as well as works by other classical, modern, and emerging playwrights. It is best known for its free “Shakespeare in the Park” productions, which since 1988 have drawn thousands of Nashvillians to Centennial Park. In addition to the popular summer Centennial Park productions—which are free—NSF stages winter shows at the Belcourt Theatre.
VANDERBILT UNIVERSITY DEPARTMENT OF THEATRE, Neely Theatre, West End at 21st Ave. S., Nashville, TN 37212; (615) 322-2404; vanderbilt.edu/theatre. Vandy's theater department stages 4 major productions a year representing a range of time periods and genres. Shows are held at Neely Auditorium, a flexible black-box theater that seats about 300.
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Belmont University's Singing Tower was built around 1850 as a water tower; it was transformed into a carillon in 1928 and is now a historic landmark. The carillon is still played for special events and concerts.
Frist Center for the Visual Arts
When the Frist Center for Visual Arts opened its doors in 2001, the fine art museum launched a new era in the city's history and forever changed its cultural landscape.
The Frist Center was born from that perfect marriage of necessity and opportunity. The story begins with a building, Nashville's landmark downtown post office, which was built in 1933–34. On the National Register of Historic Places since 1984, it once served the city as its main post office. But when a new mail-handling facility opened near the airport in 1986, the downtown building was turned into a branch office that required just a small portion of the 125,000-square-foot structure.
Around the same time a group of Nashville's citizens began a long-range community visioning process. Among the needs they identified was for a major art museum, centrally located and large enough to land significant touring shows, something that Nashville's existing museums were not equipped to do. The unused downtown post office was deemed ideal.
Enter the charitable Frist Foundation. The Frist family and Dr. Thomas Frist Jr., chairman of HCA, have long supported Nashville's arts community (Cheekwood's Frist Learning Center is one example). They rallied behind the arts center project, and in 1998 the Frist Foundation, Metropolitan Nashville, and the US Postal Service formed a unique public–private partnership. The US Postal Service agreed to sell the building for the purpose of an arts center, provided they could still maintain a customer service window there (today Nashville probably has the only art museum with a working post office on its lower level).
Renovations began in November 1999. In addition to retrofitting the building for its new use, careful attention was paid to repairing the building's unique historic features. The original hardwood floors and art deco ornamental details such as lighting fixtures and decorative metal grillework were painstakingly preserved. The hard work paid off, however, and today the building is regarded as a work of art in itself.
While work went on inside the building, an advisory council hammered out the nuts and bolts of the museum's mission. From the beginning it was envisioned as a place where the entire community, regardless of age or economic background, could “connect with art.” With that in mind, an extensive education and community outreach program was planned, including the decision to allow visitors under age 18 free admission, always.
It was also determined that the Frist Center would have no permanent collection but would accommodate changing exhibitions exclusively, giving visitors a reason to return again and again. The center's Main Level Gallery features short-term exhibitions of 2 to 3 months’ duration. The main level also includes an Orientation Gallery, providing information about present and future exhibits as well as exhibits at Nashville's other art institutions. There's also a 250-seat auditorium, a gift shop, and the Frist Center Cafe.
Exhibitions of up to 3 years’ duration are staged in the Upper Level Gallery. Adjacent to that is Frist's unique ArtQuest Gallery, which fulfills its educational mission by providing various hands-on activities explaining basic art principles. The Media and Technology Resource Center offers library resources for those wishing to learn more about the works on exhibit. There are also 3 studio-classrooms and a computer lab used for the educational programs.
The Frist Center opened with an exclusive exhibit, European Masterworks: Paintings from the Collection of the Art Gallery of Ontario. The collection of masterpieces by the likes of Rembrandt, Monet, Degas, and Van Gogh made its only stop at the Frist Center. Exhibits of pieces from Nashville's own private and public collections, a massive sculpture by Nashville artist Michael Aurbach, and an exhibit looking at the building's unique history filled out the center's 4 galleries.
Since then, the Frist Center has brought world-class exhibits to the city, quickly becoming the focal point of a vibrant arts scene.
THE BELCOURT THEATRE, 2102 Belcourt Ave., Nashville, TN 37212; (615) 846-3150; belcourt.org. The historic Belcourt, built in 1925, was barely saved from the wrecking ball by a massive grassroots effort; today it's Nashville's only art-house theater. With a diverse programming of independent, foreign, and art cinema, Belcourt's offerings are always daring, to say the least. Music and performing arts events flesh out the calendar. The theater serves food, wine, and beer along with the traditional popcorn and soft drinks. For a current schedule visit the Belcourt website.
NASHVILLE INDEPENDENT FILM FESTIVAL, 161 Rains Ave., Nashville, TN 37203; (615) 742-2500; nashvillefilmfestival.orgn. NIFF is best known for the annual film festival that has brought the likes of maverick director John Waters to town and draws 10,000 or more attendees. The film festival continues to grow in influence and scope. The festival and most screenings are held at the Regal Green Hills 16 Cinema.
WATKINS COLLEGE OF ART, DESIGN & FILM, 2298 Rosa L. Parks Blvd., Nashville, TN 37228; (615) 383-4848; watkins.edu. This highly selective film school program is gaining national recognition for the quality of its diverse programs. Watkins offers a 4-year bachelor of fine arts degree in film, with five areas of specialization: screenwriting, cinematography, producing, directing, and editing. The school also offers a post-graduate certificate in film. The Community Education Program offers noncredit screenwriting courses as well as other classes in filmmaking for those in the community.
Auto Racing
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In 1990 Darrell Waltrip, a resident of Franklin, became the first NASCAR driver to top the $10-million career-winnings mark.
HIGHLAND RIM SPEEDWAY, 6801 Kelly Willis Rd., Greenbriar, TN 37072; (615) 643-4055; highlandrim.com. Highland Rim Speedway, a 0.25-mile, high-banked asphalt oval, features stock car racing every Sat night from Mar through Oct as well as special events throughout the year. Weekly races are held in 7 divisions: Pro 8 Late Models, Super Stocks, Pro 4 Modifieds, Tuner, Pure Stocks, Rim Runners (a beginners division), and Legends. Every other week, there's an Open Wheels division.
Before achieving their current NASCAR stardom, drivers such as Darrell Waltrip, Bobby Hamilton, Donnie and Bobby Allison, and Red Farmer raced at Highland Rim. Seating is about 5,000, including VIP skyboxes, and the atmosphere is family-friendly, with no alcohol. The small track makes for some truly exciting races. Races are on Sat night; admission is $12 for general admission and $5 for children 6 to 12. Highland Rim Speedway is 20 miles north of Nashville; just take I-65 north to exit 104, then take Highway 257 west for 2 miles. Parking is free.
MUSIC CITY RACEWAY, 3302 Ivy Point Rd., Goodlettsville, TN 37072; (615) 876-0981; musiccityraceway.com. Music City Raceway offers National Hot Rod Association drag racing on Tues and Fri nights from Feb to Nov. Admission is generally $5 Tues night, $10 Fri night. Children 12 and under are admitted free with adult. Competition heats up on Sat nights when the programs include Super Pro, Super Gas, Pro, Sportsman, Pro Motorcycles, Street Legal Trophy, Jr. Dragsters, and Heads Up classes. Parking and pit passes are always free. For directions to the track, visit the website.
Baseball
NASHVILLE SOUNDS, First Tennessee Park, 401 Jackson St., Nashville, TN 37219; (615) 690-4487; nashvillesounds.com. The Nashville Sounds, a AAA affiliate of the Milwaukee Brewers, found a new home in 2015 at First Tennessee Park Located in downtown Nashville, the park. can seat up to 10,000 people. The team formerly played at Herschel Greer Stadium from its start in 1978 to 2014. As a nod to its Music City heritage, the new ballpark has an unusual guitar-shaped scoreboard, measuring 142 by 55 feet.
The team, originally a AA affiliate of the Cincinnati Reds when it came to town in 1978, plays about 72 home games from Apr through Labor Day. Check the website for promotional events and giveaways.
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Grand Ole Opry star Charley Pride pursued a professional baseball career before singing. Born to poor sharecroppers in Sledge, Mississippi, Pride unofficially started his music career in the late 1950s as a ballplayer with the Negro American League's Memphis Red Sox singing and playing guitar on the team bus between ballparks. Self-taught on a guitar bought at the age of 14 from Sears Roebuck, Pride would join various bands onstage as he and the team roved the country.
Basketball
MIDDLE TENNESSEE STATE UNIVERSITY BLUE RAIDERS, Murphy Athletic Center, Monte Hale Arena, Tennessee Blvd., Murfreesboro, TN 37132; (615) 898-2450; goblueraiders.com. PMTSU's Blue Raiders men's and women's teams are members of Conference USA.
TENNESSEE STATE UNIVERSITY TIGERS, Howard Gentry Complex, 3500 John Merritt, Blvd., Nashville, TN 37209; (615) 963-5841; tsutigers.com. Tennessee State University has a rich athletics history. The TSU Tigers have played in the Ohio Valley Conference since 1988.
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Memorial Gym at Vanderbilt University was dedicated in 1952 as a memorial to all Vanderbilt men and women who served in World War II. It was built by late master architect Edwin Keeble.
VANDERBILT UNIVERSITY COMMODORES, Memorial Gym, 210 25th St. S., Nashville, TN 37240; (615) 322-4653; vucommodores.com. Vanderbilt University's basketball program is the showcase of the school's athletic department. The Commodores are always a formidable opponent at Memorial Gym, the SEC's oldest arena. The newly renovated gym has an unusual design—benches are behind the goals instead of on the sidelines, and the bleachers start below the level of the floor—which seems to have a disconcerting effect on many visiting teams.
Football
MIDDLE TENNESSEE STATE UNIVERSITY BLUE RAIDERS, Johnny “Red” Floyd Stadium, 1500 Greenland Dr., Murfreesboro, TN 37130; (615) 898-2450; goblueraiders.com. Under head coach Rick Stockstill, the Blue Raiders are members of Conference USA.
TENNESSEE STATE UNIVERSITY TIGERS, LP Field, 1 Titans Way, Nashville, TN 37213; (615) 963-5907; tsutigers.com. Tennessee State University's football team competes as an NCAA Division I Team and as a member of the Ohio Valley Conference. TSU football has a proud legacy as one of the nation's great football programs.
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In 1957 Tennessee A&I State (now Tennessee State) University in Nashville became the first historically black college to win a national basketball title. In that year the Tigers won the National Association of Intercollegiate Athletics championship.
TENNESSEE TITANS, LP Field, 1 Titans Way, Nashville, TN 37213; (615) 565-4200; titansonline.com. The team, which relocated to Tennessee from Houston in 1997, spent its first season in a temporary home at Memphis's Liberty Bowl. For the 1998–1999 season, the team, still known as the Oilers, played its home games at Vanderbilt Stadium in Nashville. But everything really clicked in fall 1999 with the new name, new look, and $292-million, 67,000-seat, open-air stadium. Titans fans are loyal, and game tickets remain some of the hardest to come by in Nashville.
All season tickets have been sold out for years, and there is already a waiting list of more than 7,500. You can obtain a form to get on the waiting list by visiting the website or calling the ticket office. Parking at the stadium is by permit only. If you don't have a permit, don't even try to park near the stadium—traffic gridlock is a hallmark of Titans games. Shuttles operate from remote lots located around the city; MTA also operates shuttles to and from the stadium on game day.
VANDERBILT UNIVERSITY COMMODORES, Vanderbilt Stadium, Jess Neely Dr., Nashville, TN 37240; (615) 322-4653; vucommodores.com.The early years of VU football featured some of the most powerful teams in the country under College Hall of Fame coach Dan McGugin. McGugin's teams at Vanderbilt dominated Southern football until the 1930s. An NCAA Division I team, the Commodores have played at Vanderbilt Stadium since 1981. Located in the heart of the campus, Vanderbilt Stadium seats 40,550.
Hockey
NASHVILLE PREDATORS, Bridgestone Arena, 501 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203; (615) 770-2000; predators.nhl.com. The Predators first took to the ice on Oct 10, 1998. After 15 years as head coach, Barry Trotz was fired and Peter Laviolette was named new head coach on May 6, 2014. The Predators’ season runs from early Oct to early Apr.