You might not find it on a map, but Honky Tonk Highway is one of the most popular destinations in Nashville. It's the affectionate nickname for downtown Broadway's row of iconic bars. Live music goes all day, from 10 a.m. to 3 a.m. There's no cover charge. Folks wander in and out as the spirit moves them. Families with children often sit on stools or at tables listening to real musicians play real music. Families are welcome until 6 p.m., then most establishments enforce the over-21 rule.
With its close proximity to the historic Ryman Auditorium—said to be only 26 steps from Tootsie's—you can just imagine the legends who might have stopped on Honky Tonk Highway for a cold one before or after performing at the Grand Ole Opry. Even today, you never know who you might spot in these Lower Broadway clubs.
Legend says that Willie Nelson got his first songwriting job after singing at Tootsie's. Kris Kristofferson was known to spend hours at Tootsie's soaking up vibes for the treasured tunes he wrote. Likewise, Roger Miller was said to have been inspired to write “Dang Me” while cooling his toes at Tootsie's. Gretchen Wilson and Dierks Bentley are among the newer entertainers who got their starts on Honky Tonk Highway. That great band or young singer you see performing free in a Honky Tonk Highway bar might be the next big star.
By the way, bring some extra dollar bills. Most of these performers are singing and playing for free. They get paid from the tip jar, so give them a hand and a financial hand up if you can.
Sitting on the corner of Fifth and Broadway, Legends Corner (428 Broadway; 615-248-6334; legendscorner.com) guards the entrance to Honky Tonk Highway. The walls of Legends Corner are lined with thousands of vintage album covers. Name a favorite star, and his or her album will most likely be there.
Next door to Legends is Nashville's most famous honky tonk, Tootsie's Orchid Lounge (422 Broadway; 615-726-0463; tootsies.net), known far and wide for its orchid-purple exterior. Many famous musicians such as Hank Williams, Willie Nelson, Patsy Cline, Tom T. Hall, Charley Pride, and Kris Kristofferson called Tootsie's “home.” The bar's namesake, Hattie “Tootsie” Louis Tatum Bess, was a singer/comedian who bought the club in 1960. Stories abound that Tootsie would keep a cigar box of food and drink IOUs from Opry performers. She was known to slip some cash into the pockets of down-on-their-luck pickers and singers. Tootsie died of cancer on Feb 18, 1978. Loyal customers from minimum-wage earners to country music icons paid their respects at her funeral.
A little farther down the block is Robert's Western World (416 Broadway; 615-244-9552; robertswesternworld.com) where you can buy a pair of cowboy boots while you listen to bluegrass and honky-tonk music. Stars sometime show up to hang out and often end up taking the stage for a song or two. Famous faces who've visited Robert's include Merle Haggard, Kid Rock, Brooks & Dunn, Dolly Parton, and Tracy Byrd. Jesse Lee Jones is Robert's proprietor and leader of the house band Brazilbilly. A former house band was BR549, who went on to sign a major-label record deal. If you want to stay up all night or catch a few hours of sleep before coming back, Robert's offers Sunday Morning Gospel Fellowship at 10:30 a.m. every Sunday. Everyone is welcome to the service that features traditional gospel music and nondenominational spiritual messages.
Sandwiched between Second Fiddle and Robert's in downtown Nashville is Layla's Bluegrass Inn (418 Broadway; 615-726-2799; laylasnashville.com), a cozy club that offers traditional bluegrass and much more. Sure, bluegrass legend Ralph Stanley has graced Layla's stage, but so have other music styles such as Hank Williams III and the Drive-By Truckers. Check out Layla's music schedule and you'll see a wide range of music and performers. Layla's has plenty of seating and bunches of dancing room. When folks get hungry, they can stroll outside for an all-meat hotdog or Polish sausage from a friendly vendor. As for those license plates decorating Layla's, if you've got one handy, take it in and swap it for a cold brew. Then your license will become part of the growing decor.
Step into The Second Fiddle (420 Broadway; 615-251-6812; thesecondfiddle.com) between Tootsie's and Layla's and step back in time. Dozens of old radios and musical instruments line the walls of this large bar. Look for a guitar signed by Mother Maybelle Carter, the Carter family, and Johnny Cash. Bunches of Grand Ole Opry memorabilia help provide the country decor. Celebrity performers have been known to walk through these doors, including Tim McGraw, Kix Brooks, David Frizzell, Tracy Byrd, and Trick Pony. If the place looks familiar, it has shown up in music videos and album photos. McBride and the Ride filmed a video here. Second Fiddle was the setting of “40 Greatest Drinking Songs” with Wynonna Judd. Pam Tillis used shots of the honky tonk for an album.
The Stage (412 Broadway; 615-726-0504; thestageonbroadway.com) is exactly that—the biggest stage on Broadway. One of the newer spots on Lower Broadway's famed live music scene, The Stage was home to the Roy Acuff Museum in the 1960s and 1970s. Located just a few doors down from Tootsie's, The Stage has two floors with seating. Upstairs has the best overall views. Wall murals salute legends like Hank Williams, Johnny Cash, Willie Nelson, and the Highwaymen. Famous musicians have dropped in for a drink and a jam session, including Toby Keith and Joe Diffie.
The Battle of Franklin is known as “the five bloodiest hours of the Civil War.” National Geographic described it as “the most unjustly forgotten battle of the entire Civil War.” Some 9,500 soldiers were killed, wounded, captured, or counted as missing. Nearly 7,000 of that number were Confederates.
To step back in history, follow a “Widow of the South” itinerary in Franklin (615-791-7554; visitwilliamson.com), about 17 miles and “100 years south” of Nashville. The name of the tour is a nod to the 2005 New York Times bestselling novel Widow of the South written by Robert Hicks.
A board member at the Carnton Plantation (1345 Eastern Flank Circle; 615-794-0903; boft.dorg/carnton), Hicks became fascinated with the story of the woman who lived there, Carrie McGavock. “She became famous without ever leaving her farm, renowned for her daily wandering in the cemetery, for her mourning clothes, for her letters to the families of the bereaved, and most of all, for her constancy,” Hicks wrote in the book's author note. “From the day the last of the dead was buried in her back yard, she never really left her post in the cemetery, continuously checking her book of the dead.”
For extra background, read the book before you start off your day at Carnton Plantation and hear about the role the 1826 antebellum plantation played in the Civil War. Built by Randal McGavock, Nashville's mayor in 1824 and 1825, the elegant estate was on the rear lines of the Confederate forces and witnessed a steady stream of dying and wounded during the battle. The home was used as a Confederate hospital after the bloody Battle of Franklin on November 30, 1864. The Confederates lost at least 12 generals during the battle. At one time the bodies of four slain Confederate generals were laid out on the back porch. The floors of the restored house are still stained with the blood of the men who were treated here.
Within view of that historic porch rests the only privately owned Confederate cemetery in the world. In early 1866, John and Carrie McGavock designated 2 acres of land near their family cemetery as a final resting place for nearly 1,500 Confederate soldiers killed during the Battle of Franklin. The McGavocks maintained the cemetery until their deaths.
Guided tours of Carnton Plantation take about an hour with another hour or so spent exploring the grounds and outbuildings and browsing in the gift shop.
About 1.25 miles from Carnton is the Carter House (1140 Columbia Ave.; 615-791-1861; boft org/carter-house), considered to have the most bullet-damaged building from the Civil War still standing anywhere. More than 1,000 bullet holes are evident in the main structure and various outbuildings.
The 1.5-story brick house was built in 1830 by Fountain Branch Carter, a successful farmer. During the battle, Federal Brig. Gen. Jacob Cox took possession of the house and made the parlor his headquarters. As the battle raged, the Carter family, the Lotz family from across the street, and several Carter slaves took refuge in the basement.
After the battle, the Carter House parlor was turned into a Confederate field hospital and witnessed many surgeries. In fact, soldiers would be dying for decades afterward from wounds they received at the Battle of Franklin.
Take 110 steps across the street to the Lotz House (1111 Columbia Ave.; 615-790-7190; lotzhouse.com) built in 1858 by German immigrant Johan Albert Lotz. When Union soldiers marched into Franklin, they quickly dug protective trenches and created barricades from anything they could find, including the Lotz's white picket fence.
When Lotz saw that the main Union Line was yards from his home, he feared his wooden plank house wouldn't survive the warfare. He and his family sought refuge in the brick basement of the Carter House. When the fighting ended and the families exited the basement the next day, they were horrified to see dead bodies stretching before them almost as far as they could look.
The Army of Tennessee died at the Franklin battle. It was a fight from which they never recovered.
Tours of the Lotz home are available as is a walking tour of the Franklin battlefield. Leaving from the Carter House, the tour helps explain why the battle happened, what took place, and how it ended. The Battlefield Walking Tour lasts about 90 minutes.
While in Franklin, spend some time shopping and eating. The lovely little town was founded Oct 26, 1799, and named after Benjamin Franklin. The historic downtown district is nationally recognized as a Great American Main Street. A gem of Southern hospitality, Franklin has a 16-block National Register district of antique shops, gift stores, art galleries, brick sidewalks, Victorian buildings, restaurants, and lovingly restored homes.
Before leaving town, stroll around the town square and meet “Chip,” the marble Confederate soldier standing permanently on duty. Chip got his nickname from a missing piece in the brim of his hat. On November 30, 1899, the 35th anniversary of the Battle of Franklin, several thousand people crowded into Franklin for a commemoration. Part of the festivities included erecting the statue paid for by the Daughters of the Confederacy. However, a rope that workmen had attached to the statue was snagged when a 75-year-old man accidentally drove his horse against it. The statue's hat brim snapped off. Officials decided to leave it that way.
Some folks come to Nashville to visit the Music Valley/Opryland area and never go elsewhere. Others head straight for Nashville's Broadway and spend all their time there. Oh, what both one-destination travelers are missing.
For me, no visit to Nashville is complete without going to Music Valley and strolling through the grand Gaylord Opryland Resort & Convention Center and attending the Grand Ole Opry. Likewise, I can't imagine being in Nashville without hearing music in the downtown honky tonks.
So this itinerary will feature what to do in the Music Valley/Opryland section of Nashville. Combine it with a trip down Honky Tonk Highway as featured in one of our other itineraries in this chapter and you'll have a heck of a time.
Of course, the real biggie along McGavock Pike is the Gaylord Opryland Resort & Convention Center (2800 Opryland Dr.; 615-889-1000; marriott.com/hotels/travel/tnago-gaylord-opryland-resort-and-convention-center). And I do mean big. Like, huge. It is the largest hotel in the world without an attached casino.
Opened on Thanksgiving Day in 1977, the hotel features a stunning Magnolia Lobby with a lovely staircase and Tiffany-style chandelier. The lobby was designed to resemble a grand Southern mansion. Countless wedding photos have been taken on that iconic staircase.
Today, the smoke-free Gaylord Opryland Resort offers 2,711 guest rooms and 171 suites on 6 floors. But that's only part of what this impressive resort has. A river flows through the signature glass atriums, plus there are waterfalls, walking paths, and lush tropical plants in the 9 acres of indoor gardens. There are even flatboats to carry guests through the hotel's Delta.
Hotel amenities include indoor and outdoor swimming pools, health spa, nightclub, 17 restaurants that serve everything from sushi to steak, and shops with everything from bejeweled country and western attire to souvenir T-shirts and local chocolates.
If your budget allows, spend a couple of nights at the Gaylord Opryland Resort. It will take at least a day to explore the resort and another day or two to enjoy other attractions across the street and down the road. Check out the resort website for special package prices and be aware that on-site parking at the resort costs $23 a day. If money is tight, stay across the street at the Fiddler's Inn (2410 Music Valley Dr.; 615-885-1440; fiddlersinnopryland.com) where you can park free and walk to the Gaylord Opryland and many local attractions.
At the top of many a visitor's must-do list is attending the Grand Ole Opry (2804 Opryland Dr.; 615-871-6779; opry.com). Premiering in 1925, the Grand Ole Opry had several homes before relocating in 1974 to a new specially built, state-of-the-art facility in the Music Valley area near the Gaylord Opryland Resort. To keep in touch with memories of the Opry's longtime home at the Ryman Auditorium in downtown Nashville, the new Grand Ole Opry House has a 6-foot circle of hardwood taken from the Ryman and placed center stage at the Opry House. Hard telling what famous folks from Patsy Cline and Hank Williams to Minnie Pearl and Roy Acuff have stood on that circle.
Every Opry show includes a dozen performances ranging from the biggest names in country music to up-and-comers making their Opry debuts. For a special behind-the-scenes look, take a Grand Ole Opry Backstage Tour where you can walk in the footsteps of the great. Guides share stories about past and present Opry stars, show photos from the Opry's long history, let you peek in the performers’ dressing rooms, and take you to the artist entrance where large photographs of Minnie Pearl and Roy Acuff greet folks—from superstars to new artists and guests—as they enter and exit.
For a pleasant cruise plus a good meal and great music, book a trip on the General Jackson Showboat (2812 Opryland Dr.; 615-458-3900; generaljackson.com). The 300-foot paddle-wheeler has a 2-story Victorian Theater where dinner is served and shows are presented. Cruises include afternoon, evening, and Sunday brunch. The boat landing is near the Opry Mills Shopping Center. Just look for the signs. If you are staying at the Gaylord Opryland Resort, a shuttle will take you to the landing. The 3-hour cruise on the Cumberland River provides beautiful views of the Nashville skyline. The boat, of course, is named for native son General Andrew Jackson.
Shoppers love Opry Mills (433 Opry Mills Dr.; 615-514-1000; simon.com/mall/opry-mills). Opened in 2000, the indoor mall boasts more than 200 stores, plus full-service dining options and IMAX and movie theaters.
Across the street from the Gaylord Opryland Resort is a wealth of motels, restaurants, music places, shops, and museums. The Willie Nelson & Friends General Store & Museum (2613 McGavock Pike; 615-885-1515; willienelsongeneralstore.com) showcases personal items of the old outlaw himself as well as those of his many friends. Some of the items include Willie Nelson's first Martin guitar that he played when he debuted on the Grand Old Opry in November of 1963, along with his signed paycheck from that night—take-home pay an amazing $11.71. Also in the museum are famous Nudie rhinestone suits worn by Porter Wagoner and Webb Pierce; handwritten diaries of Patsy Cline; Ronnie Milsap's autographed one-of-a-kind Playboy magazine printed completely in Braille; and much more. General Store merchandise includes Willie T-shirts, shot glasses, cowboy hats, souvenir guitars, and other items.
The Texas Troubadour Theatre (2416 Music Valley Dr.; 615-889-2474; etrecordshop.com) has hosted the Ernest Tubb Midnite Jamboree for more than 60 years. The country-music radio show is taped every Saturday night at 10 p.m. following the Grand Ole Opry and broadcast at midnight. The free show is hosted by special guests each week. On Sunday mornings at 10 a.m., Cowboy Church is held in the Texas Troubadour Theatre featuring Dr. Harry Yates and Joanne Cash Yates, the sister of Johnny Cash.
Also across from the Gaylord Opryland, the Nashville Palace (2611 McGavock Pike; 615-889-1540; nashvillepalace.net) is a live traditional country-music venue, bar, restaurant, and souvenir shop. Nearby is Cooter's Place (2613 McGavock Pike; 615-885-4747; cootersplace.com), filled with Dukes of Hazzard memorabilia. In the beloved TV series, Cooter (actor Ben Jones) was the sidekick of the good old Duke boys. The free museum has Cooter's tow truck, Daisy's Jeep, Rosco's patrol car, and of course, the 1969 Dodge Charger, General Lee.
Save time to experience a celebration of country music from both past and present at the 300-seat Nashville Nightlife Dinner Theatre (2416 Music Valley Dr., Suite 139; 615-885-4747; nashvillenightlife.com). The all-you-can-eat dinner buffet includes country favorites such as fried chicken, ribs, baked potatoes, veggies, and cobblers for dessert.
Nashville has a well-known reputation as “Music City,” but this friendly place along the Cumberland River also has a vibrant arts scene. If you haven't experienced that yet, here are a few of the many artsy places that also have helped Nashville earn the nickname “Athens of the South.”
Start off your Artsy Adventures itinerary at the Parthenon (2500 West End Ave.; 615-862-8431; nashville.gov/parks-and-recreation/parthenon). Located in Centennial Park, the Parthenon is the world's only full-sized reproduction of the Greek Parthenon. The Nashville beauty houses a statue of Athena, a whopping 42 feet high, sculpted by Nashville artist Alan LeQuire. It is the tallest indoor sculpture in the Western world. Unveiled in 1990, the statue was gilded and painted with 23.75-carat gold in 2002. In her right hand, Athena holds the goddess Nike, which stands 6 feet 4 inches tall.
Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, Nashville's Parthenon mirrors the dimensions of the original to an eighth of an inch. The first Nashville Parthenon was built between 1895 and 1897 as the centerpiece for the state's Centennial Exposition. It's a symbol of the city's reputation as the Athens of the South. While the other Centennial buildings were demolished after the expo, the Parthenon was so popular that Nashville kept it and Centennial Park was created around it in the early 1900s. After it had begun to deteriorate, it was rebuilt with concrete from 1920 to 1931. Today, the Parthenon boasts an impressive art collection, including the Cowan Collection, which features more than 60 works by 19th- and 20th-century American painters.
After the Parthenon, head to a work of art for lunch. The Prime 108 Restaurant (1001 Broadway; 615-620-5665; prime108.com) at Union Station Hotel sounds like it must be a steak place, but it is much more than that. Not only is the cuisine tasty and created with local produce and sustainable ingredients, the restaurant also is located in one of Nashville's most beautifully renovated historic spaces. Walking through the artful Union Station Hotel lobby to reach the restaurant is like strolling through the past.
Opened in 1900, Union Station is a Romanesque Revival–style building that was magnificently restored as a hotel in 1986 and is now a National Historic Landmark. Beautiful stained-glass panels adorn the spacious, 3-story lobby's 65-foot-high vaulted ceiling, while an abundance of decorative gilded accents, marble floors, and oak-accented walls lend to the room's classic elegance. Here and there you'll notice reminders of the hotel's past, such as the ornate clock in the lobby, which years ago was used to time incoming trains.
Located near the downtown action, Union Station is a great place to stay for your Artsy Adventures. The 7-story hotel has 125 unique guest rooms, some with vaulted ceilings. Even if you can't stay here, you can have lunch before continuing on today's adventures.
The corner dining room has Venetian glass chandeliers and original stained-glass arched windows. A large limestone fireplace adds a warm touch. The hotel restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, as well as brunch on weekends. One of my favorite lunch items is the smoked BBQ Tennessee Berkshire pork sliders made with pulled pork, Tennessee whiskey BBQ sauce, fried onions, pickles, and slaw on mini potato buns.
After lunch, head to the Frist Museum of Visual Arts (919 Broadway; 615-244-3340; fristcenter.org) and plan to spend the afternoon. It is quite a place and it is easy to lose track of time here. Housed in a stunning art deco 1934 US Post Office built as a New Deal project, the museum features wonderful exhibits from museums and collections around the world. Browse through the gift shop before leaving. I bought my favorite pair of earrings here. Reasonable prices; beautiful stuff.
Next check out what's playing at the Schermerhorn Symphony Center (1 Symphony Place; 615-687-6500; nashvillesymphony.org.) for a relaxing musical end to an artsy day. Comparable to some of the greatest music halls in the world, the $120-million Schermerhorn Symphony Center opened in 2006 as an acoustic masterpiece. Located on a city block between Third and Fourth Avenues S., the center is home to the Nashville Symphony Orchestra. It was named in honor of the late Kenneth Schermerhorn, music director and conductor of the orchestra.
The spectacular center boasts 1,872 seats on 3 levels and features 30 soundproof windows, making it one of the few major concert halls in North America with natural light. The 85-member orchestra offers about 150 performances annually in a broad range of classical, popular, jazz, and children's concerts. Guest artists also are featured, so check the Schermerhorn website to see what performance you would like to hear, purchase tickets, and arrange your Artsy Adventures around it.
After the Schermerhorn, it's time for bed or maybe for a nightcap before retiring and getting rested for our exciting second day of Artsy Adventures.
After a leisurely breakfast, it's off to Cheekwood Botanical Garden & Museum of Art (1200 Forrest Park Dr., 615-356-8000; cheekwood.org). The 1929 Cheekwood mansion is surrounded by 55 acres of botanical gardens, lawns, and fountains. The private estate was once home to the Leslie Cheek family of the Maxwell House coffee fortune. The Cheeks gave the property to the nonprofit Tennessee Botanical Gardens and Fine Arts Center in 1960.
Today the mansion houses the prestigious Museum of Art with its collection of 19th- and 20th-century American art as well as major traveling art exhibits. Along the border of the property is the Woodland Sculpture Trail, a mile-long trail featuring more than a dozen sculptures by artists from around the world.
Cheekwood has a lovely place for lunch, the Pineapple Room Restaurant, overlooking the greenery of Cheekwood's west lawn through floor-to-ceiling picture windows. Lunch is served Tues through Sat, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Make reservations at (615) 352-4859. The restaurant offers soups, salads, sandwiches, quiche, and other nice entrees along with desserts. A popular lunch choice is Southern shrimp and grits, a tradition of buttery garlic shrimp in a Creole béchamel with roasted tomatoes, scallions, country ham, and charred crimini mushrooms served over stone-ground smoked Tennessee cheddar grits. Finish off the meal with another Southern favorite, Tennessee whiskey pecan pie—crunchy pecans, Tennessee whiskey, eggs, and corn syrup, served with whipped cream and Jack Daniel's bourbon glaze.
After lunch, spend more time at Cheekwood and be sure to visit the gift shop for neat garden items. Or, if you are ready to leave Cheekwood, you can visit some of the art galleries listed in our Entertainment chapter. Nashville's art scene is booming with festivals, art crawls, and galleries. Plan ahead and enjoy one of the art crawls.
The first Saturday of every month from 6 to 9 p.m., Nashville art galleries throughout the downtown host receptions and art openings featuring local and world-renowned artists and artwork. Admission is free to the First Saturday Art Crawl (nashvilledowntown.com/play/first-saturday-art-crawl; 615-7433090) and most galleries serve free wine and other refreshments. Some also feature live music. It's a great way to spend a Saturday night and experience downtown Nashville as an art center.
A free shuttle circulates continuously along the art crawl route from 6 to 10 p.m. One of the stops on the art crawl is Hatch Show Print (224 Fifth Ave.S ; 615-577-7710; hatchshowprint.com). If you haven't already been to this nifty place or if you would like to go again, this is a good chance to catch the shuttle and see some of the artwork at this historic print shop.
Founded in 1879 in downtown Nashville, Hatch Show Print is the oldest working letter-print shop in America. It is best known for its posters of Grand Ole Opry stars. Hatch Show Print's Haley Gallery showcases historic restrikes of original posters from the Hatch collection, as well as master printer Jim Sherraden's monoprints—contemporary interpretations and celebrations of the classic wood blocks of Hatch Show Print.
While you are out and about on Artsy Adventures, look up in the sky to see what many folks feel is an unusual artistic icon on Nashville's skyline. With its two pointy peaks and dark facade, the tallest building in Nashville has a nickname—the Batman Building. Built in 1994, the eye-catching $94-million Commerce Street skyscraper that looks like Batman's visage is actually the AT&T Tower—a terrific landmark for a terrific artsy city.