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SPECIES |
Albacore tuna and skipjack tuna |
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BINOMIAL NAME |
Thunnus alalunga and Katsuwonus pelamis |
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FISHING METHODS |
Pole and line-caught |
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MSC CERTIFIED |
Predominantly the skipjack fishery in the Maldives, also the American Albacore Fishing Association (AAFA) in the United States and (for more information on the MSC see here) |
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TINNED OPTIONS |
Tuna in water, tuna in sunflower oil and tuna in olive oil |
WHEN WE CO-EXIST WITH NATURE, THE CATCH WILL BE BOUNTIFUL.
TUNA SPAGHETTI WITH CAPERS AND OLIVES
VEAL MEDALLION AND TUNA PASTE SANDWICH
TUNA AND TOMATO PASTE MILLE-FEUILLE
TUNA AIOLI, BACON AND AVOCADO PITTA
IF you want tuna, buy a tin of skipjack, the striped tuna. The skipjack is less threatened in its territories and dolphins don’t populate the same areas. The albacore, the white tuna, known in Spain as bonito del norte, can also be a sensible choice, provided it is supplied by a fishery known to use sustainable sources.
THE other species of tuna are in worse shape. Most supermarkets now reject tins of yellowfin tuna, and the survival of the famous Atlantic bluefin is seriously threatened, so it is best left alone. Certainly in Western countries, you are increasingly likely only to find skipjack or albacore on the shelves, as more and more supermarkets exclude other types of tuna. If the tin shows the blue MSC eco-label, you know you have certified sustainable fish in your hand.
WHAT is in the tin? Precooked tuna. Albacore is lighter in colour and flavour compared to skipjack. The belly, the expensive and fatty ventresca, is mostly sold in flat tins and jars. The other parts of the tuna, including the trimmings, are all packaged in round tins. Whether you use larger or smaller chunks is up to you, but a large chunk of tuna, from a steak, represents the highest quality. Of lower quality is a tin with large chunks pressed together, while the lowest-quality tinned fish consists of many smaller pieces. The quality can vary from good to rather mediocre, but fortunately an increasing number of manufacturers now indicate whether their tin contains steak or chunks, which gives you some options. Finding good tuna is a matter of trying multiple tins by different brands.
THE tastiest and best-quality skipjack is found in the Indian Ocean, near the Maldives, the string of 26 atolls and 1,200 islands with their countless stunning sandy beaches. Tourism is a good source of income for the locals, but the real sharks among them choose a life on the seas. They can always fall back on peddling drinks and snacks. Week after week, Ali Mohamed and his band of fishermen cast their rods into the ocean. This line-catching method almost completely eliminates the bycatch of vulnerable sea creatures. Tuna live in large schools, which makes rod fishing economically viable. At night, Ali shines his floodlights, attracting small fish like moths to a flame. The fish are pulled aboard and stored in salt-water tanks. The next day they serve as live bait for the tuna.
THE fishermen aren’t fazed by the swell of the ocean. They continue to cast their lines relentlessly, as if their lives depended on it. A mist of spray shrouds the ship, which distracts the tuna and they can’t see the ship. One by one, the fishermen haul tuna onto the ship until they run out of bait, then they pack up for the day, even if there’s plenty of tuna left in the sea. Overfishing is beneficial neither to the fish nor to the fishermen. It is now time to go back to Mandhoo, the fishing village on Laamu Atoll, and rest on the pearly white sand of the coconut palm-shaded Mandhoo Beach.
LINE fishing appears to be the obvious method of countering overfishing, as fishing with nets ensures the catch of large numbers of fish in one go. However, in reality it is less straightforward. Line fishing of endangered fish stocks can be just as harmful to a species. ‘Only when we co-exist with nature will the catch be bountiful,’ says Ali Mohamed. A truly sustainable fishery relates to more than just the fishing method. Especially in areas where the local population has few alternative means of making a living, fisheries can contribute to supporting local communities. The fishermen in the Maldives are a good example of this. In the company Horizon, they control the supply chain, from the catch to the tin. Everyone involved in the fishery earns a decent income as an independent entrepreneur. This approach attracts interested buyers who, together with the International Pole and Line Foundation, financially support local initiatives like the fishers school. When you buy MSC-certified tuna, you can rest assured you’re supporting environmentally responsible fisheries. However, do note that only 8 per cent of the world’s tuna catch complies with these conditions.
ON the other side of the planet, on the West Coast of America, tuna fishermen do their bit as well. They have renounced the infamous drift nets, and Jack Webster and his colleagues angle with rod and line for albacore, the white tuna, on the south coast of California. Timing is of the essence when fishing for albacore. When the hook hits the water, the tuna swim towards the hook at 40–50km/25–30mls an hour. The tuna bites and will dive back down immediately. At the precise moment the fish bites, the angler has to forcefully pull the fish out of the water. If the fisherman is just a split second too late, the tuna will drag the rod down into the sea. This approach results in healthy tuna stocks and has the added advantage that dolphins will rarely be tempted to bite baited hooks. As soon as the fish is caught, it is placed in brine at -14°C/7°F. This cooling technique ensures the quality of the fish meat is maintained. When you see the boats in the harbour filled with tuna, it’s hard to believe each fish was caught individually. In 2008, this ‘One man, one hook, one fish’ attitude resulted in an MSC certification for the world’s first sustainable tuna fishery.
MAIN COURSE
SERVE 4
olive oil
2 tsp tomato purée
2 red peppers, deseeded and diced
3 tins of tuna in olive oil, (100g/3½oz drained weight per tin), drained and flaked
350ml/12fl oz/1½ cups passata
2 tsp capers, rinsed
4 tbsp chopped black olives
1 bay leaf
500g/1lb 2oz spaghetti
100g/3½oz Parmesan cheese, freshly shaved
salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Heat a dash of olive oil in a large frying pan. Add the tomato purée and fry over a medium heat for 1 minute.
• Add the peppers and fry until al dente.
• Add the tuna and stir to blend the ingredients.
• Add the passata, capers, olives and bay leaf and stir, then leave the sauce to heat through on a low heat, stirring occasionally.
• Meanwhile, bring a pan of water to the boil with a pinch of salt.
• Add the spaghetti and cook until al dente according to the instructions on the packet.
• Drain the spaghetti, then spoon it into serving bowls.
• Turn the heat up under the sauce, stir well and season to taste with black pepper. Spoon on top of the spaghetti.
• Serve with Parmesan cheese in a separate bowl.
SNACK/STARTER
SERVES 4
THIS recipe is an adaptation of a traditional Flemish tuna salad called smos-tuna – and smos means to mess or fiddle with, so this title seemed appropriate for this tasty little salad, which has no measurements. Just mess around with it however you like, as long as you flake the tuna in large chunks.
mayonnaise
crème fraîche
3 tins of tuna in water (100g/3½oz drained weight per tin), drained and flaked into large pieces
1 carrot, grated
1 jar of pickled onions
1 jar of gherkins in vinegar, cut into chunks
slices of bread, toasted
box of cress
salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Combine equal quantities of mayonnaise and crème fraîche and season with salt and pepper.
• Mix in chunks of tuna, the grated carrot, pickled onions and gherkins to taste.
• Spoon onto the toast and garnish generously with cress.
SNACK/STARTER
SERVES 4
200ml/7fl oz/generous ¾ cup chicken stock
4 veal medallions, 1cm/½in thick
2 tins of tuna in water (100g/3½oz drained weight per tin), drained
2 eggs, hard-boiled
2 anchovies
3 tbsp mayonnaise
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp lemon juice
135g/4¾oz bag of rocket
1 baguette, cut into 4 pieces
2 ripe vine tomatoes, sliced
1 handful of capers
freshly ground white pepper
1 bunch of radishes, washed
• Bring the stock to the boil.
• Add the veal medallions and simmer in the stock for 4 minutes. The meat should still be pink.
• Remove the veal from the stock. You can use the stock as the base for a tasty soup.
• To make the tuna paste, use a food processor or blender to blend 2 tablespoons of the stock with the tuna, eggs, anchovies, mayonnaise, olive oil and lemon juice until completely smooth.
• Divide the rocket among the 4 baguettes. Place the veal medallions on the rocket. Generously spread tuna paste on the medallions.
• Garnish with slices of tomato and sprinkle with capers, then finish with a crack of white pepper.
• Serve the baguettes with the radishes.
SNACK/STARTER
SERVES 4
2 tins of tuna in water (100g/3½oz drained weight per tin), drained and flaked
3 tbsp mayonnaise
2 tbsp crème fraîche
4 sundried tomatoes, drained (if from a jar) and finely sliced
6 sprigs of rosemary, finely chopped
250g/9oz pack of rye crispbread
1 red onion, thinly sliced
4 vine tomatoes, sliced
salt and freshly ground white pepper
• Using a stick blender, mix together the tuna, mayonnaise, crème fraîche and sundried tomatoes.
• Season with rosemary, salt and pepper.
• Spread the paste on the crispbreads.
• Place the sliced red onion and tomato slices on the tuna paste.
• Layer the crispbreads to make the mille-feuille.
SNACK/STARTER
SERVES 4
olive oil
250g/9oz cherry tomatoes, halved
100g/3½oz bacon
4 pitta breads
2 ripe avocados
1 lemon
6 garlic cloves
4 slices of bread, crusts removed, then toasted
8 tbsp mayonnaise
2 tins of tuna in water (100g/3½oz drained weight per tin), drained
1 spring onion, chopped
coarse sea salt and freshly ground white and black pepper
• Heat a dash of oil and fry the tomatoes over a medium-high heat for a couple of minutes.
• Remove from the pan, sprinkle with salt and white pepper and set aside.
• Heat a frying pan and fry the bacon until crispy. Leave to drain on kitchen paper.
• Lightly toast the pitta bread in a toaster or under the grill, then split in half horizontally.
• Halve the avocados and remove the stones. Scoop out the flesh with a spoon, cut into slices and drizzle with lemon juice.
• Using a pestle and mortar, crush the garlic cloves, sea salt, white pepper, 1 tbsp olive oil and a piece of toasted bread. Fold in the mayonnaise.
• Purée the tuna in a food processor or with a stick blender.
• Mix the garlic mayonnaise with the tuna.
• Spread the tuna aioli on the inside of one half of the pittas, then top with the bacon, tomato and avocado. Sprinkle with spring onions and finish with some freshly ground black pepper. Top with the other half of the pitta breads.
MAIN/COURSE
SERVES 4
4 tbsp mayonnaise
2 tbsp full-fat yogurt
1 tbsp tomato ketchup
2 tbsp olive oil
1 red onion, thinly sliced
3 small gherkins in vinegar, drained and finely chopped
1 tbsp capers
2 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper
3 tins of tuna in water (100g/3½oz drained weight per tin), drained and flaked
4 taco shells
150g/5½oz bag of mixed salad
• Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/gas 5.
• Mix together the mayonnaise, yogurt, ketchup and olive oil thoroughly.
• Add the onion, gherkins, capers, lemon juice and black pepper and stir them together well.
• Mix the tuna flakes into the dressing.
• Heat the tacos in the oven for 3 minutes.
• Let the tacos cool a bit, fill with the tuna and serve with the mixed salad.
SNACK/STARTER
SERVES 4
2 red peppers, halved and deseeded
2 tins of tuna in water (100g/3½oz drained weight per tin), drained and flaked
8 tbsp mild chilli relish
3 tbsp mayonnaise
1 tbsp olive oil
4 tsp chopped thyme leaves
4 small wraps
2 red onions, thinly sliced into rings
2 tbsp capers, drained and rinsed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Preheat the grill. Put the peppers on the grill, skin-side up, and grill until the skin blisters and turns black.
• Put the peppers in a plastic container or bag, seal and leave to cool.
• Once cooled, the skin will come loose. Remove the skin and cut the flesh into thin strips. Set aside.
• Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4.
• Using a food processor or stick blender, blend together the tuna, chilli relish, mayonnaise, olive oil, 2 tsp of thyme leaves, salt and pepper.
• Place the wraps in the oven for a few minutes until lightly coloured.
• Spread the tuna paste on the wraps and top with the sliced onions, peppers and capers. Sprinkle over the remaining thyme leaves and some extra pepper. Roll up and enjoy.
STARTER
SERVES 4
250g/9oz/scant 1½ cups couscous
chicken stock
olive oil
1 large red or green pepper, deseeded and cut into strips
3 tins of tuna in water (100g/3½oz drained weight per tin), drained and flaked
1 large red onion, cut into rings
a few sprigs of dill
a few sprigs of basil
a few sprigs of flat-leaf parsley
a few chives, cut into long pieces
coarse sea salt and freshly ground white pepper
• Cook the couscous in the chicken stock according to the package directions, then leave to cool. Stir with a fork to loosen the grains, then drizzle with olive oil, salt and pepper to taste. Stir again.
• Put the pepper pieces onto four plates or bowls and spoon the couscous over the top. Add the tuna flakes.
• Garnish with the red onion, dill, basil, parsley and chives.
• Drizzle some olive oil over the salad to finish.
