MIXTANBUL

Istanbul is an amazing city and has a rich history. It was once the eastern base of the Roman Empire and the headquarters of the Ottoman Empire. Now it’s the business capital of the Republic of Turkey. Out of this, the old and new and the East and West live together in a strange kind of harmony. In the Grand Bazaar, one of the world’s oldest shopping malls, you still have the tradition where retailers send their second customer of the day to their neighbor who has not yet received his first customer. In other parts of the city, you have the best concepts of modern retailing and brutal competition. While some retailers operate “cash only”, others use the most modern banking procedures.

The long heritage is also reflected in the cultural mix of Istanbul. Business patterns show some kind of homogeneity in Anatolia. After a while, you can identify and act according to the way people conduct business relationships. All actions are based on a certain level of sincerity. However, in Istanbul, levels of diplomacy replace this. You need to read between the lines.

It takes time for an outsider to understand what is actually being meant. Originally from an Anatolian city and having lived in Holland—which resembles an Anatolian city in this sense, in the beginning I took whatever was said to me literally. When someone said that we should have dinner together, I used to immediately ask, “When?” Later on, I realized that this is something like the comment “How are you doing?” used in the U.S.

After living and working in Istanbul for a few years, I developed the following phrase to explain this pattern to outsiders.

“What is said, what is meant and what is actually felt are three different things in Istanbul.” Let me give you two examples.

Let’s say someone asks someone else whether he or she has an opening in their company for his nephew.

What is usually said is, “Sure. Send the CV over, we will look at it immediately.”

What is really meant is, “I will pass it along to our Human Resources Manager.

”What is actually felt is, “Man, who the hell is hiring in the middle of this crisis?”

Let’s say a foreign business partner proposes a very unattractive deal that is far beyond international practices.

What is usually said is, “We’ll consider this with our Board and get back to you.”

What is meant is, “You can wait a long time, my friend.”

What is actually felt is, “He is underestimating our intellectual capacity.”

Saying yes or no directly to something is considered impolite. It is a common belief that when giving direct answers, both parties lose face and are embarrassed. Rather than closing the door immediately, you pacify the other party diplomatically and leave the door open for the future. Most of the time, silence— which especially drives foreigners crazy—is preferred to a negative reply. Let me end with my favorite comment; a reply to someone’s unreasonable request.

What is said, as a joke: “Dukkan senin! (The store is yours!).”

What is meant: “How can I earn money if I give it away?”
What is actually felt: “Are you out of your mind?”

Cultural richness brings cultural complexity along with it. It may be that this mix is also what makes Turkey in general, and Istanbul in particular, an exotic experience for most people while attracting them with its high growth potential.