Thanks, first and foremost, must go to my two grandmothers: Tanglin Ah-Ma, who fed me well and whose pineapple tarts inspired this journey into my aunties’ kitchens; and Ah-Ma, who loves all her “smelly puppy” grandchildren with such tender ferocity.
The journey would never have been possible without my parents and sister. Thanks to my father, Tan Soo Liap, for never letting me beat him at Scrabble; my mother, Cynthia Wong, for teaching me to read; and Daphne, for being my partner in crime, confidante, and just about the best sister anyone could have. I miss you dearly every day.
Special thanks to two women who opened their hearts and kitchens to me: Auntie Alice and Auntie Khar Imm, I remain in awe. I am also grateful to Auntie Leng Eng, Uncle Ah Tuang, Uncle Soo Kiat, Ai-Kyung Linster, Auntie Donna, Auntie Hon Tim, Auntie Khar Moi, Ng Geak Tieng, Jessie, Kuku, Matthew, Zachary, Uncle Paul, Auntie Sophia, Valerie, and Auntie Jane. And Erlinda, our trusty sous chef.
To Simpson Wong and Willin Low, two amazing chefs and truly great friends.
To Jeanette Lai, Kevin Cheng, and Regina Jaslow, who have loved me, saved me, and cheered me on for more than twenty years now. I would be a mess without you.
And my dear New York friends for their patience and support during my year of traveling and writing—and, basically, ignoring them: Brian Fidelman, Jesse Pesta, Robert Sabat, Robert Christie, Henry Wu. Greg Morago, I adore you. In Washington, D.C., thanks to Laura Sullivan, Kris Antonelli, Rachelle Pestikas, and Laura Smitherman—I love you all.
I would not be where I am today without the mentorship and teachings of my journalism editors. I’ve had the good fortune of working with a few of the great newspaper editors of my time, and I consider myself lucky to also call them my friends: John Carroll and Paul Steiger. Thanks, too, to my dalaoban Marcus Brauchli, whose work and career have been an inspiration. As well as editors Bill Marimow, Tony Barbieri, Diane Fancher, Michael Gray, Edward Felsenthal, Elizabeth Seay, and Felix Soh. Last but not least, to an editor whom I love dearly and who shaped me greatly: the incredible and incredibly sweet Mary Corey.
At Medill, thanks to John Kupetz, Roger Boye, Pamela Cytrynbaum, and the late Dick Schwarzlose.
I have so much gratitude for the Asian American Journalists Association, whose members have offered me support and love for more than a decade. I can’t list everyone but special thanks to Jeannie Park, Albert Kim, Abe Kwok, Ed Lin, David Ng, Victor Panichkul, Charles Price, Mei-Ling Hopgood, Sachin Shenolikar, David Oyama, Charles Christopher Chiang, Randy Hagihara, Joe Grimm, Donna Kato, Jessie Mangaliman, Sharon Chan, Craig Gima, and Keith Kamisugi, who was so very helpful with the launch of www.cheryllulientan.com.
I can’t offer enough thanks to my family at Yaddo, the artists’ colony, where I completed this book. Elaina Richardson, Candace Wait, Mike Hazard, Jim Ryall, Cathy Clarke, and the rest of the Yaddo staff provided the serenity and nourishment that made writing a breeze. And I owe gratitude, of course, to my Yaddo mates, who gave me a bubble of encouragement and invaluable advice during a few very crucial weeks. Your art inspired me; your faith nudged me toward the finish line: John “Nonny” Searles, Nicholas Boggs, Gordon Dahlquist, Lucy Puls, Peter Mountford, Zachary Keeting, Noa Charuvi, Gretchen Somerfeld, Thomas Cummins, Darren Floyd, Silvia Pareschi, Jonathon Keats, Andrew Solomon, Rebecca Pappas, Steve Giovinco, Rachel Cantor, Emily Mast, and Cleopatra Mathis. And special thanks to Robinson McClellan for the gift of PIG.
Thanks to the thoughtful Daphne, Leonard Lee, Jeremy Tan, Ryan Page, and Doris Truong for sending generous care packages to help with the writing. And a big thank you to Ng Aik Wye, the Singapore Tourism Board, KF Seetoh, Aisah Omar, and Auntie Jianab for all their assistance.
Major thanks to Hyperion and the people there who have been a true joy to work with: Barbara Jones, Allison McGeehon, Claire McKean, and my editors Sarah Landis and Leslie Wells.
My deepest thanks and love go to my indefatigable agent Jin Auh and the Wylie Agency. Thank you for loving this book from the very beginning.
And, of course, Mike. Sweetie, I hope I thank you enough every day.