ÞINGVELLIR NATIONAL PARK

Iceland’s location on the mid-Atlantic ridge is obvious at Þingvellir (Assembly Plains), where the land has crashed in a deep scar stretching north from Lake Þingvallavatn. In AD 930, this dramatic setting was chosen by the island’s 36 chieftains as the site of their annual Alþing (General Assembly). Almost 4,000 of the country’s 60,000 inhabitants gathered here to hear laws and to settle disputes, occasionally by combat. The Alþing’s power declined after Iceland accepted Norwegian sovereignty in 1262, but the assembly continued to be held here until 1798.

NEED TO KNOW

prac_info From Reykjavík, Golden Circle tour buses visit Þingvellir daily year-round. Some 6 and 6a buses and summer services using the Kjölur route also stop here. If driving, allow 60–90 minutes via Route 36. • Bus schedule: www.bsi.is • www.thingvellir.is/english

Google Map

From the Visitor Centre, through Almannagjá, descend to the Law Rock. Take a detour to see Peningagjá and the church, then walk up to Drekkingarhylur. In good weather, follow hiking tracks up the rift to some abandoned farms, but take care as the dense undergrowth hides deep fissures.
The Visitor Centre at Hakið sells sandwiches, whilst the service centre sells soups and pizza.

1. Lögberg

A prominent outcrop below Almannagjá’s cliffs marks the site where the Alþing’s Lawspeaker stood and recited the country’s laws to the masses below. Look nearby for faint outlines of buðir, the tented camps used during Viking times.

2. Þingvellir Church

This surprisingly low-key wooden building with a black roof is a reminder of the Alþing of AD 1000, when, despite strong opposition from pagan priests, the Icelandic nation adopted Christianity as its sole religion under threat of Norwegian invasion (see AD 930: Alþing Established at Þingvellir). The church was built in 1859 but it has a pulpit that dates back to 1683.

Þingvellir Church

3. Volcanic Features

The broad, flattened dome of northerly Skjaldbreiður – an ancient shield volcano – was the source of the lava flow now covering Þingvellir’s valley. Cut by deep fissures, the lava cooled into rough a’a outcrops and pavements of smoother pahoehoe (both of which are types of lava).

4. Almannagjá

A walk through Almannagjá’s deep, cliff-lined gully is a good way to appreciate Þingvellir’s geology. Here, as the North American and European continental plates drift apart at a rate of 2.5 cm (1 inch) a year, Iceland is literally ripping in half.

Path along Almannagjá’s cliff lined gully

5. Þingvallavatn

At 84 sq km (33 sq miles), Þingvallavatn is the largest natural lake in Iceland. Its clear waters are famous for char and trout fishing, as well as scuba diving.

The scenic Þingvallavatn lake

6. Flora

Þingvellir valley’s floor is covered in a thick carpet of moss, lichen, orchids, dwarf willow and birch. Visit in autumn for exceptional colours and join the locals in picking crowberries, which are used to make jam.

Flora

7. Drekkingarhylur

Legend has it that the Öxaráfoss falls were created when the river was diverted in around AD 930 to provide drinking water during the assemblies. In medieval times, executions were carried out here.

8. Wildlife

The area just to the north of Þingvallavatn’s lakeshore abounds in interesting wildlife. Keep an eye out for swans, mergansers and northern divers on the water, as well as snipes, ptarmigans, minks and Arctic foxes on land.

Wildlife

9. Visitor Centre

Perched atop the western side of the rift, on Route 36, the Visitor Centre offers superb views of Þingvellir. It also shows multilingual films and has a range of DVDs on the region’s geology and history.

10. Peningagjá

Peningagjá is an extraordinary sight: a narrow but deep lava fissure flooded with clear, peacock-blue water. At the bottom of this well you can see the glinting coins left by hopeful visitors.

PAYING THE PENALTY

Law courts at the Alþing strangely had no power to enforce their judgments. Litigants accepted the verdicts because they reflected public opinion, but in theory – and sometimes in practice – powerful men could ignore the sentences against them. The courts tried to resolve serious disputes through mediation, but some were sentenced to the highest Viking penalty, which was to be outlawed (banished from Iceland) for 20 years and then killed.

Back to Þingvellir National Park