The Reykjavík area covers the city centre, plus a handful of satellite suburbs. The city’s tiny core consists of a historic precinct of lanes near the old harbour, easily covered on foot in a day. While the municipal buildings are made of stone or concrete – practical protection against the fierce winter winds – most of the area is residential, comprising wooden houses, weatherproofed in brightly coloured corrugated iron. Here you will find most of Iceland’s shops, cafés, restaurants and nightclubs, alongside museums and galleries. A distinctive landmark is Öskjuhlið hill, with panoramic views of more distant sights and suburbs.
Midtown is the site of Iceland’s first Viking settlement and the city’s oldest building (on Lækjatorg Square). A statue of Jón Sigurðsson (see 1783: Lakagígar Eruption) faces the 1881 Parliament House, which replaced the Alþing’s home at Þingvellir. Visit the old harbour, Saga Museum and whaling fleet.
Aðalstræti 16 • 411 6370 • Open 9am–6pm daily • Adm • www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is
This impressive exhibition comprises the in-situ remains of a large Viking-age longhouse, possibly belonging to Iceland’s first settler, Norwegian Ingólfur Arnarson, who sailed to Iceland around AD 870 (see AD 870: Reykjavík Settled). There are virtually no other contemporary remains in such good condition. Its location under the capital’s streets makes it even more incredible.
Hverfisgata 15 • 545 1400 • Open May–mid-Sep: 10am–5pm daily; mid-Sep–Apr: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun • On-site café at weekends • Guided tours available • www.nationalmuseum.is
Part of the National Museum of Iceland, paintings, objects and archival materials, such as books and maps, all provide insights into Iceland’s heritage.
Fríkirkjuvegur 7 • 515 9600 • Open summer: 10am–5pm daily; winter: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun • www.listasafn.is
The nation’s main collection of art concentrates on early 20th-century Icelandic painters. The estimated 10,000 works are continually rotated.
Suðurgata 41 • 530 2200 • Open May–mid-Sep: 10am–5pm daily; mid-Sep–Apr: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm • www.nationalmuseum.is
Documenting Iceland’s history and culture from the earliest evidence of settlement to the present, the museum offers interactive learning opportunities for visitors. Whether it is Viking graves, medieval statues from churches or modern-day objects, there is something for everyone in this interesting exhibition covering the museum’s two floors.
Hallgrímstorg 1 • 510 1000 • Open 9am–5pm daily • Cathedral free; tower adm • www.hallgrimskirkja.is
The largest in Iceland, this 74-m- (240-ft-) high church took 40 years to build and resembles a volcanic formation, covered in hexagonal pillars. The sound of the stunning church organ, fitted with 5,275 pipes, is a highlight. Take the lift to the tower for views over Reykjavík’s colourful rooftops and Leifur Eiríksson’s statue.
Flókagata 24 • 411 6420 • Open 10am–5pm daily • Guided tours by arrangement • Adm • www.artmuseum.is
Jóhannes Kjarval (1885–1972), born in a tiny village in the northeast, studied painting in Europe. On returning to Iceland he began incorporating the landscapes into his brightly coloured paintings. Though considered Iceland’s greatest artist, his work often controversially blended folklore, Christianity and paganism. Apart from his works, this museum also exhibits contemporary Icelandic and foreign art.
Austurbakki 2 • 528 5050 • Guided tours year-round • www.harpa.is
Harpa – Reykjavík’s Concert Hall and Conference Centre – is the most important performance venue in the country, and is home to the Iceland Symphony Orchestra, the Icelandic Opera and the Reykjavík Big Band. With a façade by artist Olafur Eliasson, it is a symbol of the revitalization of Reykjavík’s historic waterfront and of Iceland’s dynamism.
Öskjuhlið • Bus 18 from Hlemmur • Exhibition: 8am–7pm daily; observation deck: 8am–8pm daily • Adm • www.perlanmuseum.is
Just south of the city centre, wooded Öskjuhlíð hill is covered in a network of walking and cycling tracks. The summit is capped by the mirrored-glass dome of Perlan (“the Pearl”). This imaginative building, made from converted cylindrical water tanks, has fabulous city panoramas from the outside observation deck. Inside, the ice cave is the highlight of the interactive glacier exhibition.
Laugardalur • Bus 14 from Hlemmur • Pool: 411 5100 • Open Apr–Aug: 6:30am–10pm Mon–Fri, 8am–10pm Sat & Sun • Park free; activities adm
East of the city centre, Laugardalur Park is a great spot to join local families relaxing. The Botanic Gardens have a zoo full of native species and a duck pond. You can skate in winter at the adjacent sports centre. The naturally heated 50-m- (164-ft-) long outdoor pool, with three smaller play pools and hot tubs, is open year-round.
When Ingólfur Arnarson first saw Iceland on his voyage from Norway in AD 870, he threw overboard his valuable wooden seat-posts and vowed to settle wherever they washed up. They were finally found in a broad, fertile, steamy inlet on the island’s southwest, which Ingólfur named Reykjavík (“Smoky Bay”).
Kick off the day the way many Icelanders do – by having a swim at the central Sundhöllin indoor pool. After a coffee at Kaffitár on Bankastræti, head for the Þjóðminjasafn Íslands and get a solid grounding in Icelandic history, though don’t burn out by trying to cover it all on a single trip. Amble down to get some fresh air and feed the birds at Tjörnin, before ducking inside City Hall for a look at the giant relief map of the country, or to catch a lunchtime concert. Sit out on the grass at Austurvöllur Square to admire the humble Reykjavík Cathedral, the Art Deco Hótel Borg and the Parliament House. Then spend half an hour among Viking remains at the excellent Landnámssýningin, which is located nearby.
Reboot your energy levels with a bowl of lamb soup at Café Paris, then shop for jewellery, clothes or souvenirs along Laugavegur. Head uphill, past a street of colourful houses on Klapparstígur, to take in the cityscape from the top of Hallgrímskirkja. If you have room for another museum, soak up some Saga-Age ambience at Safnahúsið. Walk north to Harpa to take in a concert, or to see the striking Solar Voyager sculpture and historic Höfði House. After dinner, visit some of the city’s nightclubs – Prikið, in the city centre, is the best place to start.
Sæmundargata 11 • 551 7030 • Open daily; library: 10am–5pm daily (to 9pm Wed); exhibition room: 11am–5pm daily (to 9pm Wed) • www.nordichouse.is
Exhibitions, concerts and a library devoted to Nordic culture.
Borgartún
In this simple, whitewashed house, Mikhail Gorbachev and Ronald Reagan ended the Cold War in 1986. Nearby sculpture Solar Voyager honours Viking travels.
Austurvöllur • 563 0500 • Check for opening times • www.althingi.is
This building houses the national parliament. Founded at Þingvellir in AD 930, it relocated here in 1881.
Locals bring their children to spot the ducks, geese and swans at this stone-edged lake in the city centre.
Laugarnestangi 70 • Buses 12 & 15 • 553 2906 • Open Jun–Aug: 2–5pm Tue–Sun; Sep–May: 2–5pm Sat & Sun • www.lso.is
Once the studio of Sigurjón Ólafsson, this building displays his sculptures and hosts summer concerts.
Sigtún • 411 6430 • Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm daily; Oct–Apr: 1–5pm daily • Adm • www.artmuseum.is
With its Mediterranean and African influences, this building is as interesting as the works of the renowned sculptor displayed here.
Bus 1 from Hamraborg • www.hafnarfjordur.is, www.fjorukrain.is
This seaside suburb of Reykjavík is home to good restaurants and an annual Viking festival.
mid-May–Sep: 8 ferries daily from Skarfabakka, and 2 daily from Reykjavík’s Old Harbour and Harpa • www.videy.com
Just off Reykjavík, this grassy isle boasts Iceland’s oldest stone building (now a restaurant), thousands of seabirds and the Imagine Peace Tower.
Eiríksgata • 561 3797 • Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm • www.lej.is
Three hundred plaster and bronze statues by Iceland’s first modern sculptor, Einar Jónsson’s (1874–1954) are on display here.
Changing rooms open mid-May–mid Aug: 11am–1pm Mon–Fri (& 5–7pm Mon & Wed), 11am–3pm Sat
This yellow-sand beach is set right on the waterfront south of the city centre, complete with open-air hot tubs and pool. No less fun for being entirely artificial, its geothermal pumps keep the water at 18ºC.
Banakstræti 4 • 551 2770 • www.aurum.is
Guðbjörg Kristín Ingvarsdóttir’s jewellery is modelled on the landscape of Iceland, using precious metals to create delicate, fluid designs that are both modern and timeless.
Hafnarstræsti 1–3 • 551 1250
Known for its friendly service and long opening hours, this gift shop has been in the same family for over 50 years. Now a chain with five stores across Iceland.
Austurstræti 4 • 551 3509 • www.thorvaldsens.is
This charity shop has been in business for over a century and specializes in handmade Icelandic goods – knitted jumpers, local woodcarvings and silver jewellery.
Skólavörðustíg 11 • 540 2350
This excellent bookshop offers a range of maps, from road atlases to hiking maps, as well as English-language books on Iceland and stationery. There is also a good café.
Skólavörðustíg 15 • 511 5656
Selling music CDs and vinyl, this shop also hosts concerts (especially during the summer) by an eclectic inventory of local artists covering jazz, classical and pop.
Laugavegur 18b • 517 7797 • www.kraum.is
Local designers display and sell their clothes and accessories here. Look out for attractive silver and black lava jewellery.
Vesturgata 4 • 562 8990 • www.kirs.is
This unique store, run by a women’s cooperative, offers distinctly Icelandic garments, fish-skin accessories, glassware, jewellery and gifts.
Laugavegur 15 • 511 1900 • www.michelsenwatch.com
Great old-style watchmaker, with a workshop full of pre-digital timepieces in the process of being repaired. Sells Rolexes and other classic wristwatches.
Grandagarður 35 • 551 8400 • blog.burid.is
Located in the old fishermen’s huts by the harbour, this gourmet shop offers a tempting selection of cheeses and local specialities. It also holds workshops on Iceland’s dairy history.
Tryggvagata 19 • 562 5030 • Open 11am–5pm Sat & Sun
Join the locals in spending a couple of hours sifting through acres of household junk at this market and you might uncover unexpectedly stylish designer clothing. Good home-grown vegetables are for sale here, too.
Austurstræti 14 • 551 1020 • Open 8:30am–10pm Sun–Thu, 8:30am–11pm Fri & Sat
Try the sandwiches at this popular café. Sit outside in good weather to enhance the Parisian ambience.
Bankastræti 12 • 551 2866 • Open 8am–1am Mon–Thu, 11am–4:30am Fri & Sat, noon–1am Sun • www.prikid.is
This friendly café-diner, frequented by an arty crowd, has a bar feel by night. There are hip-hop DJs at weekends (see Prikið).
Vegamótstígur 4 • 511 3040
Vegamót is busy at lunchtime and after dark. People-watch over a drink, or sample the Mediterranean menu.
Ingólfsstræti 1a • 517 6767
Traditional Icelandic delicacies and beer are served here. There are also pancakes and coffee every Sunday. Live music is hosted on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays.
Hverfisgata 16a • 551 1544 • Open 7:15am–3pm Mon–Fri, 8am–3pm Sat & Sun
Huge breakfasts are served at this trendy basement café. It’s also a popular place to get coffee in the morning after a night out.
Hafnarstræti 15 • 551 3340
In business since 1979, this family-run, cozy Italian pizzeria was one of the first places to serve espresso in Iceland. Their fresh seafood pastas are superb.
Klapparstígur 27 • 551 2442
Despite its name, Café Rosenberg is an exhibition space, bar, lounge and brasserie serving everything from fish and chips to barley risotto. Although the original building burned down in 2007, the venue has been open for decades.
Laugavegur 28a • 571 5781
With a welcoming, wooden interior and quirky decor, this bar is always well-populated. Enjoy your selection from the extensive drinks menu, whilst listening to jazz, golden oldies and new music releases.
Laugavegur 36 • 551 3524
Tasty breads, Danish pastries, quiches, chocolates, sandwiches and superb coffee are all served at this family-run bakery.
Skólavörðustíg 3a • 552 1174
Said to be the capital’s oldest café (it opened in 1958), the no-frills Mokka is credited with spearheading caffeine culture in Iceland.
Templarasund 3 • 571 1822 •
Located near Tjörnin Lake, the menu here is both hearty and healthy, with chia and oatmeal breakfasts and Indian, Italian and Vietnamese meals for lunch and dinner. Vegan and vegetarian dishes are available.
Austurbakki 1 • 519 9700 • Closed L •
Enjoy classic Italian cuisine made with Icelandic produce and innovative cocktails, whilst enjoying the best panoramic view of Reykjavík.
Bankastræti 2 • 551 4430 •
Housed in an old storehouse in the city centre, this famous eatery is full of period furnishings. It serves top-notch traditional seafood.
Amtmannstíg 1 • 561 3303 • www.thelobsterhouse.is •
This intimate restaurant serves classic French cuisine with a refreshing Nordic twist.
Austurstræti 22 • 562 7335 •
Caruso serves Mediterranean cuisine in an elegant setting. Live music at weekends.
Hótel Reykjavík, Aðalstræti 16 • 514 6060 •
This well-established restaurant offers delicious, locally inspired dishes including home-grown lamb and salmon. A Viking longhouse was excavated here.
Austurstræti 9 • 587 7555 •
Friendly and casual spot serving craft beers, pancakes, burgers and salads, as well as Sunday roasts. Books and boardgames help you settle in for the long haul.
Vesturgata 2 • 552 3030 •
Known for its seafood, this beautiful old wooden warehouse overlooks Ingólfstorg square. Try the delicious seafood buffet.
Laugavegur 20b • 553 111 • www.glo.is •
A pioneer of healthy, vegetarian and vegan cuisine, this unpretentious spot offers a daily-changing menu of four different main courses (one of which is usually raw), plus a tasty dessert.
Hverfisgata 12 • 552 1522 •
The first Icelandic restaurant to win a coveted Michelin star, Dill specializes in New Nordic Cuisine, pairing traditional dishes such as arctic char, lamb shanks and pork belly with barley, berries and kale.
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), including taxes and extra charges.
under ISK5,000 ISK5,000–9,000 over ISK9,000