REYKJAVÍK

The Reykjavík area covers the city centre, plus a handful of satellite suburbs. The city’s tiny core consists of a historic precinct of lanes near the old harbour, easily covered on foot in a day. While the municipal buildings are made of stone or concrete – practical protection against the fierce winter winds – most of the area is residential, comprising wooden houses, weatherproofed in brightly coloured corrugated iron. Here you will find most of Iceland’s shops, cafés, restaurants and nightclubs, alongside museums and galleries. A distinctive landmark is Öskjuhlið hill, with panoramic views of more distant sights and suburbs.

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1. Historic Midtown and Harbour

Midtown is the site of Iceland’s first Viking settlement and the city’s oldest building (on Lækjatorg Square). A statue of Jón Sigurðsson (see 1783: Lakagígar Eruption) faces the 1881 Parliament House, which replaced the Alþing’s home at Þingvellir. Visit the old harbour, Saga Museum and whaling fleet.

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Historic buildings, midtown Reykjavík

2. Landnámssýningin (Settlement Exhibition)

prac_info Aðalstræti 16 • 411 6370 • Open 9am–6pm daily • Adm • www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is

This impressive exhibition comprises the in-situ remains of a large Viking-age longhouse, possibly belonging to Iceland’s first settler, Norwegian Ingólfur Arnarson, who sailed to Iceland around AD 870 (see AD 870: Reykjavík Settled). There are virtually no other contemporary remains in such good condition. Its location under the capital’s streets makes it even more incredible.

3. Safnahúsið (Culture House)

prac_infoHverfisgata 15 • 545 1400 • Open May–mid-Sep: 10am–5pm daily; mid-Sep–Apr: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun • On-site café at weekends • Guided tours available • www.nationalmuseum.is

Part of the National Museum of Iceland, paintings, objects and archival materials, such as books and maps, all provide insights into Iceland’s heritage.

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Medieval manuscript, Safnahúsið

4. Listasafn Íslands (National Gallery)

prac_infoFríkirkjuvegur 7 • 515 9600 • Open summer: 10am–5pm daily; winter: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun • www.listasafn.is

The nation’s main collection of art concentrates on early 20th-century Icelandic painters. The estimated 10,000 works are continually rotated.

5. Þjóðminjasafn Íslands (National Museum)

prac_infoSuðurgata 41 • 530 2200 • Open May–mid-Sep: 10am–5pm daily; mid-Sep–Apr: 11am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm • www.nationalmuseum.is

Documenting Iceland’s history and culture from the earliest evidence of settlement to the present, the museum offers interactive learning opportunities for visitors. Whether it is Viking graves, medieval statues from churches or modern-day objects, there is something for everyone in this interesting exhibition covering the museum’s two floors.

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Statue, National Museum

6. Hallgrímskirkja

prac_infoHallgrímstorg 1 • 510 1000 • Open 9am–5pm daily • Cathedral free; tower adm • www.hallgrimskirkja.is

The largest in Iceland, this 74-m- (240-ft-) high church took 40 years to build and resembles a volcanic formation, covered in hexagonal pillars. The sound of the stunning church organ, fitted with 5,275 pipes, is a highlight. Take the lift to the tower for views over Reykjavík’s colourful rooftops and Leifur Eiríksson’s statue.

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Leifur Eiríksson

7. Kjarvalsstaðir (Reykjavík Art Museum)

prac_infoFlókagata 24 • 411 6420 • Open 10am–5pm daily • Guided tours by arrangement • Adm • www.artmuseum.is

Jóhannes Kjarval (1885–1972), born in a tiny village in the northeast, studied painting in Europe. On returning to Iceland he began incorporating the landscapes into his brightly coloured paintings. Though considered Iceland’s greatest artist, his work often controversially blended folklore, Christianity and paganism. Apart from his works, this museum also exhibits contemporary Icelandic and foreign art.

8. Harpa

prac_infoAusturbakki 2 • 528 5050 • Guided tours year-round • www.harpa.is

Harpa – Reykjavík’s Concert Hall and Conference Centre – is the most important performance venue in the country, and is home to the Iceland Symphony Orchestra, the Icelandic Opera and the Reykjavík Big Band. With a façade by artist Olafur Eliasson, it is a symbol of the revitalization of Reykjavík’s historic waterfront and of Iceland’s dynamism.

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Harpa, Reykjavík's Concert Hall and Conference Centre

9. Perlan

prac_infoÖskjuhlið • Bus 18 from Hlemmur • Exhibition: 8am–7pm daily; observation deck: 8am–8pm daily • Adm • www.perlanmuseum.is

Just south of the city centre, wooded Öskjuhlíð hill is covered in a network of walking and cycling tracks. The summit is capped by the mirrored-glass dome of Perlan (“the Pearl”). This imaginative building, made from converted cylindrical water tanks, has fabulous city panoramas from the outside observation deck. Inside, the ice cave is the highlight of the interactive glacier exhibition.

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Perlan’s mirrored-glass dome

10. Laugardalur Park and Recreation Area

prac_infoLaugardalur • Bus 14 from Hlemmur • Pool: 411 5100 • Open Apr–Aug: 6:30am–10pm Mon–Fri, 8am–10pm Sat & Sun • Park free; activities adm

East of the city centre, Laugardalur Park is a great spot to join local families relaxing. The Botanic Gardens have a zoo full of native species and a duck pond. You can skate in winter at the adjacent sports centre. The naturally heated 50-m- (164-ft-) long outdoor pool, with three smaller play pools and hot tubs, is open year-round.

THE SETTLEMENT OF REYKJAVÍK

When Ingólfur Arnarson first saw Iceland on his voyage from Norway in AD 870, he threw overboard his valuable wooden seat-posts and vowed to settle wherever they washed up. They were finally found in a broad, fertile, steamy inlet on the island’s southwest, which Ingólfur named Reykjavík (“Smoky Bay”).

A DAY IN REYKJAVÍK

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Morning

Kick off the day the way many Icelanders do – by having a swim at the central Sundhöllin indoor pool. After a coffee at Kaffitár on Bankastræti, head for the Þjóðminjasafn Íslands and get a solid grounding in Icelandic history, though don’t burn out by trying to cover it all on a single trip. Amble down to get some fresh air and feed the birds at Tjörnin, before ducking inside City Hall for a look at the giant relief map of the country, or to catch a lunchtime concert. Sit out on the grass at Austurvöllur Square to admire the humble Reykjavík Cathedral, the Art Deco Hótel Borg and the Parliament House. Then spend half an hour among Viking remains at the excellent Landnámssýningin, which is located nearby.

Afternoon

Reboot your energy levels with a bowl of lamb soup at Café Paris, then shop for jewellery, clothes or souvenirs along Laugavegur. Head uphill, past a street of colourful houses on Klapparstígur, to take in the cityscape from the top of Hallgrímskirkja. If you have room for another museum, soak up some Saga-Age ambience at Safnahúsið. Walk north to Harpa to take in a concert, or to see the striking Solar Voyager sculpture and historic Höfði House. After dinner, visit some of the city’s nightclubs – Prikið, in the city centre, is the best place to start.

The Best of the Rest

1. Norræna Húsið

prac_infoSæmundargata 11 • 551 7030 • Open daily; library: 10am–5pm daily (to 9pm Wed); exhibition room: 11am–5pm daily (to 9pm Wed) • www.nordichouse.is

Exhibitions, concerts and a library devoted to Nordic culture.

2. Höfði House

prac_infoBorgartún

In this simple, whitewashed house, Mikhail Gorbachev and Ronald Reagan ended the Cold War in 1986. Nearby sculpture Solar Voyager honours Viking travels.

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Höfði House

3. Alþingishúsið

prac_infoAusturvöllur • 563 0500 • Check for opening times • www.althingi.is

This building houses the national parliament. Founded at Þingvellir in AD 930, it relocated here in 1881.

4. Tjörnin

Locals bring their children to spot the ducks, geese and swans at this stone-edged lake in the city centre.

5. Sigurjón Ólafsson Sculpture Museum

prac_infoLaugarnestangi 70 • Buses 12 & 15 • 553 2906 • Open Jun–Aug: 2–5pm Tue–Sun; Sep–May: 2–5pm Sat & Sun • www.lso.is

Once the studio of Sigurjón Ólafsson, this building displays his sculptures and hosts summer concerts.

6. Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Museum

prac_infoSigtún • 411 6430 • Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm daily; Oct–Apr: 1–5pm daily • Adm • www.artmuseum.is

With its Mediterranean and African influences, this building is as interesting as the works of the renowned sculptor displayed here.

7. Hafnarfjörður

prac_infoBus 1 from Hamraborg • www.hafnarfjordur.is, www.fjorukrain.is

This seaside suburb of Reykjavík is home to good restaurants and an annual Viking festival.

8. Viðey

prac_infomid-May–Sep: 8 ferries daily from Skarfabakka, and 2 daily from Reykjavík’s Old Harbour and Harpa • www.videy.com

Just off Reykjavík, this grassy isle boasts Iceland’s oldest stone building (now a restaurant), thousands of seabirds and the Imagine Peace Tower.

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Viðey seabird

9. The Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum

prac_infoEiríksgata • 561 3797 • Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm • www.lej.is

Three hundred plaster and bronze statues by Iceland’s first modern sculptor, Einar Jónsson’s (1874–1954) are on display here.

10. Nauthólsvík Geothermal Beach

prac_infoChanging rooms open mid-May–mid Aug: 11am–1pm Mon–Fri (& 5–7pm Mon & Wed), 11am–3pm Sat

This yellow-sand beach is set right on the waterfront south of the city centre, complete with open-air hot tubs and pool. No less fun for being entirely artificial, its geothermal pumps keep the water at 18ºC.

Places to Shop

1. Aurum

prac_infoBanakstræti 4 • 551 2770 • www.aurum.is

Guðbjörg Kristín Ingvarsdóttir’s jewellery is modelled on the landscape of Iceland, using precious metals to create delicate, fluid designs that are both modern and timeless.

2. The Viking

prac_infoHafnarstræsti 1–3 • 551 1250

Known for its friendly service and long opening hours, this gift shop has been in the same family for over 50 years. Now a chain with five stores across Iceland.

3. Thorvaldsens Bazar

prac_infoAusturstræti 4 • 551 3509 • www.thorvaldsens.is

This charity shop has been in business for over a century and specializes in handmade Icelandic goods – knitted jumpers, local woodcarvings and silver jewellery.

4. Eymundsson

prac_infoSkólavörðustíg 11 • 540 2350

This excellent bookshop offers a range of maps, from road atlases to hiking maps, as well as English-language books on Iceland and stationery. There is also a good café.

5. 12 Tónar

prac_infoSkólavörðustíg 15 • 511 5656

Selling music CDs and vinyl, this shop also hosts concerts (especially during the summer) by an eclectic inventory of local artists covering jazz, classical and pop.

6. Kraum

prac_infoLaugavegur 18b • 517 7797 • www.kraum.is

Local designers display and sell their clothes and accessories here. Look out for attractive silver and black lava jewellery.

7. Kirsuberjatréð

prac_infoVesturgata 4 • 562 8990 • www.kirs.is

This unique store, run by a women’s cooperative, offers distinctly Icelandic garments, fish-skin accessories, glassware, jewellery and gifts.

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Paper bowls at Kirsuberjatréð

8. Michelsen Watchmakers

prac_infoLaugavegur 15 • 511 1900 • www.michelsenwatch.com

Great old-style watchmaker, with a workshop full of pre-digital timepieces in the process of being repaired. Sells Rolexes and other classic wristwatches.

9. Búrið – The Icelandic Pantry

prac_infoGrandagarður 35 • 551 8400 • blog.burid.is

Located in the old fishermen’s huts by the harbour, this gourmet shop offers a tempting selection of cheeses and local specialities. It also holds workshops on Iceland’s dairy history.

10. Kolaportið Flea Market

prac_infoTryggvagata 19 • 562 5030 • Open 11am–5pm Sat & Sun

Join the locals in spending a couple of hours sifting through acres of household junk at this market and you might uncover unexpectedly stylish designer clothing. Good home-grown vegetables are for sale here, too.

Bars, Cafés and Pubs

1. Café Paris

prac_infoAusturstræti 14 • 551 1020 • Open 8:30am–10pm Sun–Thu, 8:30am–11pm Fri & Sat

Try the sandwiches at this popular café. Sit outside in good weather to enhance the Parisian ambience.

2. Prikið

prac_infoBankastræti 12 • 551 2866 • Open 8am–1am Mon–Thu, 11am–4:30am Fri & Sat, noon–1am Sun • www.prikid.is

This friendly café-diner, frequented by an arty crowd, has a bar feel by night. There are hip-hop DJs at weekends (see Prikið).

3. Vegamót

prac_infoVegamótstígur 4 • 511 3040

Vegamót is busy at lunchtime and after dark. People-watch over a drink, or sample the Mediterranean menu.

4. Íslenski Barinn

prac_infoIngólfsstræti 1a • 517 6767

Traditional Icelandic delicacies and beer are served here. There are also pancakes and coffee every Sunday. Live music is hosted on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays.

5. Grái Kötturinn

prac_infoHverfisgata 16a • 551 1544 • Open 7:15am–3pm Mon–Fri, 8am–3pm Sat & Sun

Huge breakfasts are served at this trendy basement café. It’s also a popular place to get coffee in the morning after a night out.

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Grái Kötturinn

6. Hornið

prac_infoHafnarstræti 15 • 551 3340

In business since 1979, this family-run, cozy Italian pizzeria was one of the first places to serve espresso in Iceland. Their fresh seafood pastas are superb.

7. Café Rosenberg

prac_infoKlapparstígur 27 • 551 2442

Despite its name, Café Rosenberg is an exhibition space, bar, lounge and brasserie serving everything from fish and chips to barley risotto. Although the original building burned down in 2007, the venue has been open for decades.

8. Boston

prac_infoLaugavegur 28a • 571 5781

With a welcoming, wooden interior and quirky decor, this bar is always well-populated. Enjoy your selection from the extensive drinks menu, whilst listening to jazz, golden oldies and new music releases.

9. Sandholt

prac_infoLaugavegur 36 • 551 3524

Tasty breads, Danish pastries, quiches, chocolates, sandwiches and superb coffee are all served at this family-run bakery.

10. Mokka

prac_infoSkólavörðustíg 3a • 552 1174

Said to be the capital’s oldest café (it opened in 1958), the no-frills Mokka is credited with spearheading caffeine culture in Iceland.

Restaurants

1. Bergsson Mathús

prac_infoTemplarasund 3 • 571 1822 • TT

Located near Tjörnin Lake, the menu here is both hearty and healthy, with chia and oatmeal breakfasts and Indian, Italian and Vietnamese meals for lunch and dinner. Vegan and vegetarian dishes are available.

2. Kolabrautin

prac_infoAusturbakki 1 • 519 9700 • Closed L • TT

Enjoy classic Italian cuisine made with Icelandic produce and innovative cocktails, whilst enjoying the best panoramic view of Reykjavík.

3. Lækjarbrekka

prac_infoBankastræti 2 • 551 4430 • TT

Housed in an old storehouse in the city centre, this famous eatery is full of period furnishings. It serves top-notch traditional seafood.

4. The Lobsterhouse

prac_infoAmtmannstíg 1 • 561 3303 • www.thelobsterhouse.isTT

This intimate restaurant serves classic French cuisine with a refreshing Nordic twist.

5. Caruso

prac_infoAusturstræti 22 • 562 7335 • TT

Caruso serves Mediterranean cuisine in an elegant setting. Live music at weekends.

6. Fjalakötturinn

prac_infoHótel Reykjavík, Aðalstræti 16 • 514 6060 • TT

This well-established restaurant offers delicious, locally inspired dishes including home-grown lamb and salmon. A Viking longhouse was excavated here.

7. Laundromat Café

prac_infoAusturstræti 9 • 587 7555 • TT

Friendly and casual spot serving craft beers, pancakes, burgers and salads, as well as Sunday roasts. Books and boardgames help you settle in for the long haul.

8. Restaurant Reykjavík

prac_infoVesturgata 2 • 552 3030 • TT

Known for its seafood, this beautiful old wooden warehouse overlooks Ingólfstorg square. Try the delicious seafood buffet.

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Dishes at Restaurant Reykjavík

9. Gló

prac_infoLaugavegur 20b • 553 111 • www.glo.isTT

A pioneer of healthy, vegetarian and vegan cuisine, this unpretentious spot offers a daily-changing menu of four different main courses (one of which is usually raw), plus a tasty dessert.

10. Dill

prac_infoHverfisgata 12 • 552 1522 • TT

The first Icelandic restaurant to win a coveted Michelin star, Dill specializes in New Nordic Cuisine, pairing traditional dishes such as arctic char, lamb shanks and pork belly with barley, berries and kale.

Price Categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), including taxes and extra charges.


TT under ISK5,000 TTISK5,000–9,000 TTover ISK9,000