WEST ICELAND AND THE SNÆFELLSNES PENINSULA
Heading north from Reykjavík, the highway follows the western coastline, famous for its stormy weather. Beyond Hvalfjörður and the exceptional Glymur falls are Akranes and Borgarnes, once home to the notorious Viking Egill Skallagrímsson. The 13th-century historian Snorri Sturluson lived (and was murdered) just inland at Reykholt, close to attractive waterfalls and more saga lore around Laxárdalur. Northwest of Borgarnes, the Snæfellsnes peninsula is dotted with fishing villages and its tip graced by Snæfellsjökull, the conical icecap covering a dormant volcano.
1. Borgarnes Settlement Center
Brákarbraut 13–15, Borgarnes • 437 1600 • Daily buses from Reykjavík to Borgarnes • Open 10am–9pm daily • Adm • www.landnam.is
These exhibitions explore the Saga of the Settlement Period (AD 870–930) of Iceland, which began with Viking settlers and ended when all free land was taken. A section celebrates Iceland’s most famous viking and first poet Egill Skallagrímsson.
2. Hraunfossar, Barnafoss and Kaldidalur
About 15 km (9 miles) east up the valley from Reykholt on Route 518, the waterfalls at Hraunfossar and Barnafoss – one gentle, the other violent – are worth a stop en route to Kaldidalur, a stark valley between the icy Ok and Þórisjökull peaks. The road is unsealed, but open in summer to ordinary vehicles (check conditions at www.vegagerdin.is).
3. Reykholt
Snorrastofa, Reykholt • 433 8000 • Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm daily; Oct–Apr: 10am–5pm Mon–Fri; also open by request • Adm • www.snorrastofa.is
The tiny hamlet of Reykholt belies its importance as the home of Snorri Sturluson (1179–1241), the historian who became tangled in Norway’s bid to annex Iceland. Murdered by a rival with the support of the Norwegian king Hákon (he was trapped and killed in the cellar of his own house), his tale is told at the cultural and medieval centre Snorrastofa. His thermal bathing pool and the restored remains of the tunnel are located nearby.
4. Stykkishólmur
www.stykkisholmur.is • Norska Húsið: 438 1640; open Jun–Aug: 11am–5pm daily; Adm; www.norskahusid.is • Library of Water: open Jun–Aug: 11am–5pm daily; Sep–May: 11am–5pm Tue–Sat; Adm; www.libraryofwater.is
This town’s wooden buildings recall its 19th-century port heyday, the best being Norska Húsið (Norwegian House). The nearby countryside is dotted with sites from Eyrbyggja Saga (see The Best of the Rest). The Library of Water has 24 glass columns filled with water from Iceland’s major glaciers.
5. Breiðafjörður and Flatey
Breiðafjörður – the huge, wide bay separating the Snæfellsnes peninsula from the Westfjords to the north – is thick with islands and rocky reefs, providing an ideal breeding ground for marine birds. From Stykkishólmur, you can explore the bay on a tour with Sæferðir (www.seatours.is), or go to Brjánslækur in the Westfjords via Breiðafjörður’s largest island, Flatey, once home to an important monastery. For a taste of island life and bird-watching, stay in Flatey’s tiny village (www.hotelflatey.is).
6. Búðir
Búðir is a minute place on the south coast of Snæfellsnes, with just a church and a hotel. One can enjoy beautiful seascapes and views of Snæfellsjökull from here. The dark wooden church dates from 1703. Its graveyard and boundaries are encroached upon by the Búðahraun lava field, which is said to be inhabited by creatures from local folklore. Despite its remote location, the romantic Hótel Búðir is famous for being a favourite of Nobel Prize-winning author Halldór Laxness. Don’t miss the amazing black-sand beach.
7. Snæfellsjökull National Park
Based around an icecapped volcano, this national park (see Snæfellsjökull National Park) extends over rough, vegetated lava fields to a coastline rich in birdlife. Hiking, skiing and exploring local villages or Vatnshellir lava cave (www.vatnshellir.is) are all possible, and you can easily circuit the park by car in a day.
8. Laxárdalur
This pretty valley along Route 59 is the setting for Laxdæla Saga, the great tragic love story of Icelandic literature. It tells of the beautiful Guðrún Ósvífursdóttir and her four husbands: the first she divorces, but the rest perish due to witchcraft, feuding and drowning, respectively, while she becomes a nun. Only place names from that time survive, namely the church at Hjarðarholt, and the farmsteads at Goddastaðir and Höskuldsstaðir.
9. Akranes
Akranes, Iceland’s oldest fishing port, is a good place to experience a down-to-earth, gritty Icelandic town. Fishing is still the main industry and the harbour and processing factory survive alongside the less romantic National Cement Works. The town is famous for its sports club, Íþróttabandalag Akranes, whose football team has won the Icelandic Championship 18 times. The engaging Akranes Folk Museum and a charming lighthouse provide good reasons to visit, though their location is a 10-km (6-mile) detour off the highway.
10. Hvalfjörður
Most people use the tunnel under the bay to bypass the 30-km- (19-mile-) deep Hvalfjörður and miss some classic scenery, including Glymur, Iceland’s highest waterfall. Hvalfjörður means “whale fjord”, after the number of whales once seen here. It was a US naval base during World War II and the red barracks are now holiday homes.
EGIL’S SAGA
An interesting mixture of history, folklore and political allegory, Egil’s Saga recounts the roller-coaster life of Egill Skallagrímsson (AD 910–990), a bully of a Viking who spent his youth fighting the Norwegians and his old age fighting everyone else, but was nonetheless a magnificent poet. A must-read, along with Njál’s Saga and Laxdæla Saga.
A DAY IN THE WEST
Morning
Drive north from Reykjavík around Kjalarnes, where the road is pinched between the sea and the Esja plateau. Avoid the 5-km- (3-mile-) long cross-fjord tunnel and follow Route 47 around Hvalfjörður. At the head of the fjord, take the 4-km (3-mile) gravel road inland, and then hike 5.5-km (3.5-mile), to where the Glymur waterfall cascades down the 200-m- (656-ft-) high cliffs. Continue around Hvalfjörður to rejoin Route 1 and continue to Borgarnes. Spend an hour at the Settlement Center, delving into the lives of Iceland’s Viking pioneers. Don’t miss out on the spooky dioramas downstairs, retelling the tale of Egil’s Saga. Have a quick lunch at the good-value café here.
Afternoon
Make Deildartunguhver, Europe’s largest thermal spring (see Deildartunguhver), the first stop of the afternoon, followed by a further historical halt at Reykholt, taking in the Heimskringla Museum, the church and old geothermal bathing pool. From here, follow Route 518 to Hraunfossar and Barnafoss, the latter is the setting for a tragic tale of two children who drowned in the rapids here while trying to cross over a lava bridge. Both falls are small but attractive. At this point you can retrace your route or (though this is an adventurous, summer-only option) follow gravel tracks south via Kaldidalur to Þingvellir and then back to Reykjavík.
