1933 SUMMER TRIP TO HO! – MERLIN 1

SUNDAY 6TH AUGUST

Toiling under the boiling sun

SLOUGH – WINDSOR – BAGSHOT – STOCKBRIDGE – SALISBURY – SHAFTESBURY – SHILLINGSTONE

As arranged I turned up at Slough at 9.30 o’clock to start with Reynolds on a short tour to Westward Ho! It was nearly 10.30 a.m. when we got going through Windsor, Waltham and Sunningdale out on the main Salisbury road at Bagshot, in a very hot sun. Between Hook and Basingstoke we had a light lunch and then by-passed Basingstoke coming out some miles beyond that uninteresting town.

There was a question of whether we should make for Salisbury via Andover or Stockbridge. Reynolds decided for the latter though I warned him we should find it rather tough. We toiled up the long slopes on this trying stretch in the boiling sun and we were very glad of a drink of ginger beer at Stockbridge. Yet another drink was necessary before Salisbury was reached and it was as well we had it for Salisbury, reached at 6.10 p.m., drew an absolute blank for tea. We had to go onto Wilton, a P.R.H.A. House supplying the necessary nutrient.

After tea we had still a long road to cycle, some of it rather strenuous up through Barford St. Martin, Fovant and Swallowfield to Shaftesbury where we turned to the left just at the Salisbury end of that town. After some ten miles, we went through Child Okeford to Shillingstone where we had booked up for the night at the ‘Old Ox’. It had been rather a strenuous first day out on a tour – 120 miles of stiffish roads.

MONDAY 7TH AUGUST

A glowing piece of country

SHILLINGSTONE – MILTON ABBAS – WOOL – LULWORTH COVE – DORCHESTER

We made an early start through Okeford Fitzpaine up Woolland Hill, a glowing piece of country. After about half an hour’s contemplation we turned left down to Milton Abbas spending some time in the ancient building used as a clubroom, recreation house and tea shop. After a light lunch at the ‘Hambro Arms’ we made for Milton Abbey and spent about half an hour there before making our way towards Lulworth Cove, stopping at Wool for tea at the ‘Black Bear’.

Lulworth, once an unsophisticated spot, was littered with people, perhaps to be expected on a Bank Holiday. We stayed there for about an hour and left soon after 8 o’clock on the Dorchester road. After the first climb out this is a fast stretch and we almost indulged in a tear up.1 Nevertheless, it was necessary to light up for safety’s sake just inside Dorchester. We got a satisfactory ‘put up’ at the ‘Central Temperance Hotel’.

Distance covered: 42 miles

TUESDAY 8TH AUGUST

Full to capacity

DORCHESTER – POWERSTOCK – WEST MILTON – BRIDPORT – LYME REGIS – BRANSCOMBE

Started out on the Bridport way and turned off by the old Roman road to Exeter just beyond the Wireless Station. It is difficult to see why this road has fallen into disuse for it is certainly straighter and with much easier gradients than the main road nearer the coast which is the generally accepted route. It is overgrown in parts and the surface has been allowed to get in a complete state of disrepair.

We made rather further north than we should have done and got to Powerstock where lunch was getting urgent. The “local” ‘Three Horseshoes’ supplied some doubtful beer but was unable to supply anything to eat more sustaining than bread and butter. We accordingly, after a vain search for another pub which was reported to be in the vicinity, made for West Milton where the ‘Red Lion’ was able to give us some bread and cheese.

We reached Bridport through Bradpole and then took the arduous climb via Chideock to Charmouth and onto Lyme Regis, which had as many people to the square yard as it could comfortably hold. The ‘Newhaven Inn’ gave us a good tea at a window from which we could see some of the ‘sights’, which now add diversification to our pleasure resorts.

Our intended destination was Branscombe, a small village just round the corner of Bar Head on the coast. We therefore took the Roman road via Colyford; my chief bother was the sun low in the sky and directly ahead, having lost my green eye shade en-route. The road down to Branscombe was an apparently endless descent and when we did reach the Promised Land it appeared that at least 10,000 other folk, mostly with tents of every description, had got there first.

At ‘Bank Cottage’ we were informed there was not an inch of vacant room anywhere. However as a concession they could give us some blankets and things in a tool shed. This we thankfully accepted and it did not prove a too uncomfortable night’s lodging. Before closing time we strolled down to the local pub which was full of summer freaks and doing a roaring trade.

Distance covered: 46 miles

WEDNESDAY 9TH AUGUST

Many-coloured pyjamas

BRANSCOMBE – SIDMOUTH – EXMOUTH – STARCROSS – DAWLISH – TEIGNMOUTH

Breakfast and letter writing on the beach meant that we whiled away all the morning. It was about 12.45 p.m. when we commenced the climb out of Branscombe towards Sidmouth and we were glad of a feed of fish and chips when we arrived there. Sidmouth is quite a pleasant little resort and it is easy to understand those who make it their annual holiday place year after year.

Exmouth was our next port of call, after a few more hills intervened our journey. Curiously enough I had never been in Exmouth before though I had seen it from the other side of the river. It does not impress us at all, the ideal resort! We made for the official G.W.R.2 Ferry and just caught the boat. A scheme for dropping my cycle aboard from about fifteen feet was navigated and it was got on somehow just as the boat was moving off.

Starcross was looking much as it has looked for the last forty years, nor were any alternations apparent in the three miles of up and down road to Dawlish where tea was the first consideration. We made for the local café and left our machines there while strolling round the town and front. The Lyme Regis pyjamas were easily surpassed by those here and one pair of many colours absolutely took the bun. It was past 8 o’clock when we left Dawlish intending to make Teignmouth our resting place for the night. At the foot of Holcombe Down we turned down Smuggler’s Lane and walked the remaining mile or so along the front.

Teignmouth was pretty full and we did not anticipate getting put up easily. However, a C.T.C. place sent us to the ‘Jolly Sailor’ which did us quite cheaply and satisfactorily.

Distance covered: 29 miles

THURSDAY 10TH AUGUST

A nocturnal visitor

TEIGNMOUTH – TORQUAY – PAIGNTON – BRIXHAM – POMEROY CASTLE – TOTNES – BUCKFASTLEIGH

We passed out over Shaldon Bridge and took the trying Torquay road which is somewhat better as to the surface than when I had traversed it about eight years ago.

Torquay like everywhere else this week was teeming with people in various stages of dress and undress. We did not stay there long but continued with the worst tram track in southern England to Paignton. At one place there is the notice “Pedestrians are requested to walk tight to the walls”, a direction which is likely to be misconstrued. We were glad to leave Paignton and its trams behind and with nothing appearing that might supply lunch except a ‘Railway Hotel’ at Churston Ferrers we pushed on to Brixham, and it being too late for a licensed house, had some fish and chips at a restaurant.

Brixham, though full of visitors, has not yet become a popular seaside resort and its old fishing atmosphere remains in full force. Leaving Brixham by the road by which we had entered it we turned left just past Churston Ferrers for Stoke Gabriel and Berry Pomeroy. Examination of the ruins of Pomeroy Castle occupied us for about 1½ hours and it was past 6 o’clock before we thought of tea, too late for the lodge keeper at the Castle gate to entertain the idea. So we made for Totnes, full of traffic and had a satisfactory tea at ‘Clarke’s’ before going onto Buckfastleigh, our chosen night quarters.

At Buckfastleigh we got a satisfactory put up though our bedroom left only a space of about nine inches to get around it. We had one disturbance during the night, a large Persian cat coming in through the window and having to be ejected.

Distance covered: 38 miles

FRIDAY 11TH AUGUST

Incidents and thunderstorms

BUCKFASTLEIGH – HOLNE – DARTMEET – TAVISTOCK – LAUNCESTON – HOLSWORTHY

Our first thought this morning was to do Buckfast Abbey, the wonder building which has been in course of erection by the monks themselves for many years past is now nearly complete3. Early though we were, we were not in time to forestall charabancs and motors from all parts from the occupants of which the monks were doing their best to extract what toll they could in exchange for examples of their handicrafts, some of which appeared to come from Birmingham or possibly from Japan. Granted the Abbey is an amazing and beautiful structure but one feels some disgust of the commercialisation of a building primarily erected for the glory of God.

After many weeks of drought there were indications of a break today as some rain fell while we were in the Abbey. We decided to plunge into Dartmoor by way of Holne, and achieving the top after a long climb it was apparent we were in for a thunderstorm and that we were meeting it. It was upon us before we could get our capes on and, shelter being absent, it had to be faced.

We were at the highest point of Holne Moor and the road ran steeply down, the gradient appearing to be about 1 in 12. The drenching rain made rim brakes almost inoperative. I soon decided to play for safety and found a place where I could conveniently run up a bank and stop, and then commenced a walk to the bottom. Reynolds went on and was soon out of sight. It took me about 15 minutes walking down, feeling perhaps I was being unduly cautious. Near the bottom I found his machine but no Reynolds. Then the owner of a car standing by informed me he had got him inside after he had come a cropper through his brakes not holding.

He seemed rather shaken up and was cut about a bit but with no bones broken and was most concerned about the buckled front wheel of his bicycle. The people in the car were quite prepared to take him and the cycle to the nearest place where both could receive some attention. This happened near Hexworthy; the next place on the map was Dartmeet and an inn was marked at Two Bridges about three miles on towards Princetown. The car went ahead and was soon out of sight.

The Dartmeet ‘inn’ proved to be a large AA Hotel and the only information I got there was that the car had been seen going down the hill on the main road (Ashburton to Princetown). I turned left as Two Bridges had been mentioned but about three miles on this road I met two cyclists who said they had seen a car with a cycle tied on the back going in the other direction. I therefore turned back to Dartmeet and again enquired at the hotel with a negative result.

After light refreshment I turned once more towards Two Bridges and after yet another blank I headed to Princetown. There I was advised to try Tavistock. This is a tough piece of road and further delay was caused by a punctured back tyre, which held up for the four miles descent into Tavistock. By the time I had made fruitless enquiries, had tea and mended the puncture, it was about 6.30 p.m.

I decided to make for Launceston and then on to Holsworthy if time permitted. The road through Milton Abbot to Launceston was surprisingly easy and I decided on the fourteen miles and fourteen hills route to Holsworthy. Visions of being welcomed at a favourite resort gave me ginger4 and with one stop for a Bass at the ‘Arscott Arms’ I arrived at the ‘South Western Hotel’ at 10.30 p.m. ready for supper and bed. An eventful day of incidents and thunderstorms.

Distance covered: 60 miles

SATURDAY 12TH AUGUST

The glorious sands of Bude

HOLSWORTHY – BUDE – KILKHAMPTON – CLOVELLY – STRATTON – BUDE

It was not much use trying to make further efforts to find Reynolds. My back tyre appeared to have a slow puncture so a spare tube seemed desirable. I accordingly made first of all to Bude to get one and then on the road nearest to the coast to Kilkhampton where the ‘London Inn’ gave me light refreshment. And so on the Bideford road. After lunch of sandwiches and beer at the ‘West Country Inn’ (now a curious place where you may only drink if you eat as well), I went on and turned down to Clovelly, garaging my cycle at the top.

Clovelly was, as anticipated, full of people so I took to the beach and wrote some letters and paddled my travel-worn feet in the watery brine. An early tea was taken at ‘Shackson’s’ and I returned to Bude via Stratton. There is now a new road which gives a rapid coast down to Stratton of about three miles. The sands of Bude were very attractive and after a drink of draught Worthington’s at the ‘King’s Arms’ Stratton, I returned to my base having made a round of 59 miles.

SUNDAY 13TH AUGUST

A swarm of man-eating flies!

BUDE – GREAT TORRINGTON – SOUTH MOLTON – BAMPTON – TAUNTON

It was time to think of returning home and I decided on the North Devon way first making over Holsworthy Beacon to Stubbs Cross. Here I carelessly took the road to Black Torrington instead of Great Torrington and had got about four miles on the way before discovering my error. However I found a cross road which took me in the right direction.

After getting steadily up a considerable height I was hurled down to a bridge over the Torridge, meeting on the way a swarm of man-eating flies who drew my blood five times before I beat them off. Great Torrington seems to consist mainly of one dilapidated street which runs steeply uphill for about half a mile, a most dismal town. I found a pub which supplied some bread and cheese and a pint and then took the road to South Molton.

Great Torrington to South Molton is not a road I shall willingly seek out again on a hot August day. It is only 16 miles but it took me nearly 2½ hours. The surface is good but the gradients are terrifying. About midway is the descent to Umberleigh and after a climb of (it seems) some miles it is not quite so bad.

It was 4.30 p.m. and I was rather hungry and extremely thirsty. South Molton showed nothing in the shape of a tea shop and I was relived to find a little pub by the wayside about a mile on with a welcome tea sign. I knew the road onto Bampton and regarded it as a hilly one but it was a billiard table compared with what I had just come over.

I had to make up for lost time and soon got through Bampton and onto Wiveliscombe. There seemed no other alternative but to make for Taunton for the night and there I arrived just as a thunderstorm commenced. Two C.T.C. places turned me down but I eventually found sanctuary at the ‘Saracen’s Head’ in the High Street after a strenuous 75 miles.

MONDAY 14TH AUGUST

Through the Mendips

TAUNTON – GLASTONBURY – WELLS – TROWBRIDGE – LACOCK – HUNGERFORD

I got away from Taunton just after 10 o’clock on the fast stretch to Glastonbury over Sedgemoor via East and West Lyng, Burrow Bridge, Othery and Street.

At the ‘Coxley Pound Inn’, where I stopped for bread and cheese, a heavy thunderstorm came on which kept me here for an hour. The accompanying rain had not ceased when I got to Wells and I did not linger there but continued on the ascent of the Mendips through Chewton Mendip to Farrington Gurney. Here I turned right for Radstock climbing out of that uninteresting town up Frome Hill via Norton St. Philip and Farleigh Hungerford to Trowbridge then onto Melksham and via Beanacre to Lacock. Here I had hoped to stay the night but was frustrated as Miss Jenkins was in hospital with phlebitis.

The ‘Red Lion’ gave me tea, after which I climbed Bowden Hill and dropped down to Calne and sped along the Bath road through Marlborough to Hungerford, where the ‘Red Lion’ gave me supper and bed.

Distance covered: 92 miles

TUESDAY 15TH AUGUST

Home, and news of Reynolds

HUNGERFORD – WALTHAM ST LAWRENCE – WINDSOR – STANWELL MOOR – UXBRIDGE – HAMMERSMITH

There is nothing to be said about a run down the Bath road from Hungerford through Newbury, Thatcham, Woolhampton and Theale to Reading and thence via Waltham St. Lawrence (lunch at the ‘Star’) to Windsor. Tea was taken at Stanwell Moor, then a visit to Arthur Cushing and a fruitless call at the Carfax pub for news of Reynolds and so home via Uxbridge and Ruislip – 76 miles.

I found a letter at home from Reynolds to say he had been taken to Ashburton and had come back by train from there on Saturday after medical attention, mostly cuts, and no broken bones

 

1933 A SCOTTISH TOUR WITH MISS WILLSON

FRIDAY 8TH SEPTEMBER

To Euston Station via the Arterial road with Ron White to catch the 11 o’clock train to Edinburgh.

Distance covered: 22 miles

SATURDAY 9TH SEPTEMBER

The first camp

EDINBURGH – QUEENSFERRY – KINROSS – LOCH LEVEN

Met Doris Willson on arrival at Edinburgh at 7.45 a.m. and spent the morning in the exploration of Edinburgh including the Castle. After lunch, we made for Queensferry via the ferry under the shadow of the Forth Bridge and via Crossgates and Cowdenbeath to Kinross. Our first camp was on the shores of Loch Leven.

Distance covered: 31 miles

SUNDAY 10TH SEPTEMBER

The Fair Maid’s House

LOCH LEVEN – GLENFARG – PERTH – DUNKELD – BUTTERSTONE LOCH

Awoke to a misty morning and it was 10 o’clock when we left after the tents and I had dried out. We made for Milnathort, Glenfarg and Bridge of Earn5 arriving at Perth. I sought out the Fair Maid’s House⁶ then via Bankfoot and Dunkeld where we turned right to what appeared our attractive camping spot by the Loch of the Butterstone.There we found an ideal site by the Loch side.

Distance covered: 36 miles

MONDAY 11TH SEPTEMBER

Easier than expected across the Grampians

BUTTERSTONE LOCH – PITLOCHRY – BLAIR ATHOLL – DALWHINNIE – LOCH ERICHT

After a little necessary washing by Doris, in a bright sun we left the Butterstone Camp at 11.30 a.m. getting back to the main road to Pitlochry where we lunched before doing the Pass of Killiecrankie. From there to Blair Atholl where we had a picnic tea in a field after having some difficulty in purchasing some milk and water, the local Post Office finally obliging.

We had now to cross the Grampians and anticipated some hard work. However the gradient was easy all the way and before we began to feel the steep ascent we had reached the top of the Pass and were speeding downhill towards Dalwhinnie. At Dalwhinnie we turned left and found a camping spot by the side of Loch Ericht, a wild and barren place, before obtaining milk and eggs from a small cottage nearby.

Distance covered: 49 miles

TUESDAY 12TH SEPTEMBER

Permission granted

LOCH ERICHT – DALWHINNIE – NEWTONMORE – KINGUSSIE – AVIEMORE – LOCH PITYOULISH

A damp, misty morning made our surroundings appear wilder than ever and it was late in the morning before our tents were dry enough to pack. We went back to Dalwhinnie and made our first stop at Newtonmore, obtaining an excellent lunch at a C.T.C. house.

Then we made our way to Kingussie and Aviemore with designs on camping by Loch Pityoulish reached by a detour to the right. It was an ideal camping spot but alas we were duly warned against camping here. However we managed to meet the Lady Reuter of the Estate who readily gave us permission and referred us to her head keeper for milk and eggs. After tea and supper we took a long walk and was entertained by Doris with various tales of hospital life.

Distance covered: 31 miles

WEDNESDAY 13TH SEPTEMBER

Curious lights in the sky

LOCH PITYOULISH – CARRBRIDGE – BOAT OF GARTEN – DAVIOT

From Pityoulish we regained the main road via Boat of Garten7, which was much more picturesque than Carrbridge (where we had a light lunch), where the ruins of the old bridge are worth seeing. The road through Tomatin was very wild and we camped just beyond Daviot, having tea in camp. After tea we went for a long walk under the stars and were puzzled by curious lights in the sky, probably the Aurora Borealis. It had been a rather blowy day with some rain.

Distance covered: 28 miles

THURSDAY 14TH SEPTEMBER

A lost watch

DAVIOT – INVERNESS – GARVE

We had not too far to go for Inverness and as we were getting away from civilisation did ourselves well for lunch at ‘Burnetts’. Unfortunately I left my watch in the bathroom there; though I telephoned from a village five miles on there was no trace of it so we proceeded over Beauly Bridge, Muir of Ord and Moy Bridge to Garve where we encamped in a rickyard8 adjoining a farm. Wind still very high.

Distance covered: 53 miles

FRIDAY 15TH SEPTEMBER

Pancakes by the loch

GARVE – ACHNASHEEN – GLEN CARRON – LOCH DOULE

Still windy and we headed west through Achanalt, Achnasheen (lunch and tea taken at the ‘Achnasheen Hotel’) Balnacra, Glen Carron and camp to Loch Doule. Scottish pancakes were made whilst we waited and eggs, milk and blackcurrant jam secured. A most picturesque camping site.

Distance covered: 32 miles

SATURDAY 16TH SEPTEMBER

The ‘Misty Isle’

LOCH DOULE – STROMEFERRY – KYLE OF LOCHALSH – BROADFORD

We awoke to a bright morning, which showed up the beauty of the surrounding countryside. We left the site at 11.30 a.m. and headed along the shores of Loch Carron detouring to Stromeferry where we did not have long to wait for a passage to the other side.

The road across to Lochalsh is rugged and very steep. On arrival at the Kyle of Lochalsh, letters were the main consideration and then lunch. Afterwards Doris scented the ferry just going over to Skye and we all chased after her just getting the boat. Skye, the ‘misty isle’, greeted us with sunshine. Through the small village of Broadford we finally found a cheery campsite about eight miles on with the usual useful nearby cottage for supplies of eggs and milk.

Distance covered: 38 miles

SUNDAY 17TH SEPTEMBER

Blustery Skye

BROADFORD – SLIGACHAN – BROADFORD

A howling gale nearly blew our tents away in the night but the sun in the morning was brilliant and, though there was a nip in the air, we all took advantage of the proximity of the sea to get rid of some of our travel strains.

We had camped on the corner of an inlet and after we had packed our belongings we took the road that skirted this inlet. The strong wind was mostly behind us, but when we did face it on one of the twists in the road there was no doubt of its power. At about 1 o’clock we found ourselves at the ‘Sligachan Hotel’ and as it was beginning to rain we entered that palatial hostelry and asked for lunch, expecting to be stung. However our expectations were not realised, the charge for the excellent feed we had being most reasonable.

Time would not allow our continuing the exploration of the glorious Isle of Skye and we had to turn back. The rain and the wind were terrific and many times we were in danger of being blown over the precipices on the off side of the road. It was getting dark when we got back to Broadford and we decided to put up if possible instead of camping. We at length found it difficult to sleep in a bed after getting used to a sleeping bag and the hard ground.

Distance covered: 26 miles

MONDAY 18TH SEPTEMBER

A misbehaving tyre

BROADFORD – KYLELEALIN – KYLE OF LOCHALSH – DORNIE – GLEN SHIEL – TOMDOUN

We had to make for the mainland once more. Skye gave us a brilliant send off from Kyleakin to Kyle of Lochalsh in bright sunshine. From there we made for the Dornie Ferry at the head of Loch Duich. On the other side we had lunch at the only refreshment house and it was not cheap.

Eilean Donan Castle nearby is a picturesque feature of Dornie. The next five miles was mostly a walk and I realised I had left my map of Skye and Inverness at the refreshment house. However a passing motorist promised to ask the folk at the bottom to send it to me at our next stop for letters. This road skirting Loch Duich was the most beautiful we had struck and onwards through Glen Shiel was very fine. Doris, wanting a drink, fell down a water hole but was safely rescued.

At the beginning of Glen Cluanie we took the left hand fork, which took us with much hard labour up to 1424 feet. The run down was fast and rough and my sprite tyres twice required attention. Darkness was coming on so Doris and Ron left me with a third puncture while they went on to find a camping spot. My tyre only lasted about a mile and I went on in the dark bumping over stones with a front tyre nearly devoid of air after it had been pumped up every quarter mile.

I found the other two at Tomdoun, a weird spot but we succeeded in pitching our tents on a disused road, having some difficulty in getting our skewers in the ground.

Distance covered: 49 miles

TUESDAY 19TH SEPTEMBER

Gorgeous blackberries

TOMDOUN – INVERGARRY – FORT WILLIAM

We went on through Glen Garry to Invergarry and crossed over the Caledonian Canal at Loch Oich and skirted pass Loch Lochy. Here we found the most gorgeous blackberries and we over saturated ourselves. We had to leave the canal to pass over Spean Bridge and then made for Fort William. Shopping in Fort William delayed us and then we lost Doris. She was, however, found again having only gone into a shop to buy bread while we were not looking!

A good camping spot became a problem and the one we chose though picturesque swarmed with midges that nearly ate us alive, a gentle rain having livened them up.

Distance covered: 40 miles

WEDNESDAY 20TH SEPTEMBER

Doris descending at full pelt

FORT WILLIAM – ONICH – BALLACHULISH – PASS OF GLENCOE – BRIDGE OF ORCHY

The road now ran for some miles besides Loch Linnhe and through Onich, and a ferry across the top of Loch Leven brought us to Ballachulish – a drab slate quarrying village. We had lunch at a refreshment house by the station before tackling the Pass of Glencoe.

It was fitting that this glorious and tragic pass should be done in stormy weather. It rained relentlessly all the way up (all ridden) and, after stopping for a short time at the top, the weather drove us into capes again as soon as we had started down the other side. For many miles of steep down grade the surface was vile. Doris recklessly went full pelt regardless of the bones of ‘Augusta’ (her Ellis cycle). I followed her as closely as possible but Ron was more careful and soon dropped a long way behind.

After about ten miles of this rough stuff the road improved and we began to look for a camping site. A farm close by the picturesque Bridge of Orchy attracted us and we ‘came to Leros’ as usual9. It was a pleasant spot with a roaring torrent on one side of us and a broad shallow river at the end of the field where we camped. There were no eggs at the farm and I went to the village shop and paid ½ for six articles, thereby drawing down the wrath of Doris on my head. We seemed to have brought some of the midges with us from our last camp and had a rather itchy night.

Distance covered: 24 miles

THURSDAY 21ST SEPTEMBER

Poor Doris!

BRIDGE OF ORCHY – TYNDRUM – GLEN DOCHART – LOCHEARNHEAD – STRATHYRE – CALLANDER

The usual mist soon gave way to sunshine. As Ron and I were attending to the washing up Doris wandered away and thought she would like to cross the river but about half way across she slipped and suffered total immersion. She divested herself of her clothes and donned her bathing costume getting additional warmth from my sleeping bag draped round her neck. Ron found a line upon which to hang her wet clothes but after two hours her clothes were only partially dried and she had to wear them still damp.

This incident shortened the day’s run and we decided to cut out the Trossachs, our routes being through Tyndrum, Crianlarich, Glen Dochart, Killin Junction, Lochearnhead and Strathyre along Loch Lubnaig and the Pass of Leny. About a mile from Callander, Ron ran into my back wheel and shed three spokes so we had to camp there and then, striking quite a pleasant spot but the good lady at the farm was very anxious to know where Doris came in the scheme of things.

Distance covered: 40 miles

FRIDAY 22ND SEPTEMBER

In search of spokes

CALLANDER – DUNBLANE – STIRLING – DOUNE – FALKIRK – LINLITHGOW

The first thing after breakfast was for Ron to go into Callander in search of spokes while Doris and I struck the tents and packed up. He was lucky and we got on our way by midday. We went on through Callander via Doune and Dunblane to Stirling and spent the afternoon in Stirling Castle but apart from the view we were not much impressed. Had tea in Stirling and continued via Fallin, Airth, Grangemouth and Falkirk and camped at a farm just short of Linlithgow surrounded by all kinds of farmyard animals. Duck eggs were a compensation.

Distance covered: 39 miles

SATURDAY 23RD SEPTEMBER

Joining the hustle and bustle

LINLITHGOW – PHILPSTOUN – KIRKLISTON – EDINBURGH

We left the farmyard camp to the great regret of the cows, calves, sheep, pigs, turkeys, geese, ducks and hens en route for Edinburgh via Linlithgow, Philpstoun, Kirkliston and Corstorphine. At Edinburgh our first thought was to find somewhere to stop for the night. Doris decided that the cheapest place would be best and in due course we found it at Barlows, 21 Broughton Place which did us famously.

Although we had to take train home tomorrow Doris had made up our minds to make the most of the little time left to us by exploring the city. In the evening we strolled the floodlit gardens of Princes Street and joined in the hustle and bustle of the packed streets. Before going to bed Ron informed us of the result of his camping audit, which cost us £1.4.510 for the fortnight’s camping feed. A sobering thought.

Distance covered: 19 miles

SUNDAY 24TH SEPTEMBER

We left Edinburgh homeward bound on the ‘Royal Scot’ in the pouring rain, sad to see ‘Auld Reekie’¹¹ fade away in the smoke. A wonderful and glorious tour in the most exhilarating countryside I have ever seen. Although the tracks and gradients were testing, Scotland was a cycling paradise and I vow to return once north of the border. Tiring journey home but finally arrived with all cycles and persons in one piece. Bade farewell to Ron and Doris and duly arrived back home to letters and the luxury of a real bed without the accustomed noise of various farmyard animals.

Distance cycled: 14 miles

EPILOGUE

This last passage brings to an end Charles’ recording of his adventures in the golden age of cycling. We may never be sure why Charles stopped writing his accounts of cycling around the country, but it may have something to do with his companion on this last trip to the romantic, bonnie shores of Scotland. Rather than cycle alone Charles would require a bicycle ‘made for two’ in the future as his ‘Daisy’ (in this case Doris) gave him her answer true.

Charles James Pope married Doris Willson in November 1933 at Stokenchurch Methodist Church, Buckinghamshire, thus ending his bachelor days at the ripe old age of 54. I wonder if they had the reception at ‘The Swan’ Burford! The happy couple went on to adopt three children and continued to live in Oxfordshire.

__________________

1 A race.

2 Great Western Railway

3 Construction began in 1907 and was finally completed in 1938

4 A 19th century expression meaning to incite enthusiasm or excitement

5 A small town deriving its name from its famous sandstone bridge across the River Earn, remains of which survived into the 1970s

6 Dating back to c.1475, the Fair Maid’s House is the oldest secular building in Perth; it is now used as the headquarters of the Royal Scottish Geographical Society

7 A small village deriving its name from the old ferry over the River Spey

8 A place where haystacks are stored

9 It’s possible that Charles is referring to the Greek Island of Leros here, a famous sanctuary of Artemis.

10 One pound, four shillings and five pence

11 An old nickname for Edinburgh, on account of the Old Town’s pungent mix of sewage and smoke