When you look at proportions, you are considering the relationship of your body to your legs, as well as the position of your waist. Once you understand your body proportions, you’ll be able to combine clothes that appear to adjust any imbalances and give the illusion of perfect proportions.
Balanced waist
Stand in front of a mirror so that you can see your silhouette. Place your hands on your natural waistline (1). Then place the flat of one hand underneath your bust, and the other below the first hand (2). If you can easily place two hands widthways between your bust and waistline, you are low-waisted and may be slightly shorter on the leg.
If you have a struggle to get the second hand in, you have long legs and may be high-waisted. If you can get approximately VA hands in, you have perfect proportions.
You may be high-waisted but feel that your legs are not particularly long. If so, view yourself from the back; it’s possible that you are long in the ‘rise’ (the measurement between waistline and crotch). Conversely, you could be short in this area.
High waisted + short rise + long legs High waisted + long rise + average to short legs Low waisted + short rise + average to short legs Low waisted + long rise + short legs Balanced waist + balanced rise + balanced legs
Balanced rise + legs
You are extremely lucky in having perfect proportions, with the length of your body and legs in balance with each other. Remember what your height, scale and body shape are and follow the guidelines given in the appropriate section of this book (pages 110-129) whenever you go clothes shopping.
This will ensure that you only buy what suits you the best.
Short rise + long legs
Create the illusion of lowering your waist: X Dropped waistlines or hipsters.
%/ Skirts and trousers without waistbands.
y Low-slung belts.
y Long jackets and tops.
/ Volume or pattern on your legs.
/ Long tops and long skirts.
X Don’t tuck in tops.
Long rise + average to short legs
Create the illusion of lowering your waist without shortening your legs:
H Low waistlines or hipsters.
y Skirts and trousers without waistbands.
/ Low-slung belts.
y High heels
y Long jackets and tops with narrow skirts or trousers.
X Don’t clutter your leg area.
X Don’t tuck in tops.
Low waisted
Short rise + average to short legs
Create the illusion of raising your waist without shortening your legs: y Belts and tuck-ins.
y Short tops.
y Minimal details in the rise area.
y Short jackets with long or short skirts.
y Straight-waisted or belted dresses.
y Long jackets with short skirts or narrow trousers.
y High heels.
X Don’t clutter your leg area.
Long rise + short legs
Create the illusion of raising your waist and lengthening your legs:
/ Belts and tuck-ins.
y Short tops and jackets.
y Details such as pockets or trims in the rise area.
y Keep to one colour from waist to toe.
y High heels.
y Straight-waisted or belted dresses.
X Don’t clutter your leg area.
Scale is a combination of height and bone structure. Your scale may be petite, average or grand, and will determine the size of patterns, the weight of fabrics and how much texture you can wear, as well as the size of your accessories.
Petite
1.6m (5ft 3in) and under
>/ You’re better wearing one colour from head to toe
%/ Two colours may be worn as long as the proportions are % to %
/ Best not to wear too much volume, as it will swamp you
Scale
You have:
/ fine fingers, narrow wrists and ankles
y small facial features
>/ shoe size under 37
You should wear:
y smaller print patterns
y smaller accessories
y minimal texture and bulk
/ neat hairstyles
1.6-1.7m (5ft 3in-5ft 6in)
/ You have the freedom to do what you like, as long as you follow your body shape (pages 110- 125) and proportions (pages 130-131)
Scale
You have:
y neither petite nor grand bone structure
y shoe size between 37 and 40
You should wear:
y accessories that balance your scale (neither tiny nor extra-large)
y average-sized patterns
y either a 'wow' piece of clothing to make a statement or a single accessory such as a bag or a piece of jewellery
Grand
1.7m (5ft 6in) and over
y You need to use colour to break up your height
y By wearing differently proportioned clothes you will look more balanced (short jacket + short skirt will not do)
Scale
You have:
y large hands and feet, strong bone structure
y shoe size 40+
You should wear:
y larger, bolder prints
y statement accessories
y heavier weighted fabrics (or finer fabrics worn layered)