Xeros is the Greek word for dry: Thus “xeriscaping” is landscaping that requires very little, if any, supplementary water. Ideally, a xeriscape garden is built with plants that naturally thrive on the normal rainfall of the region.
Xeriscaping saves in two ways. After your plants have become “conditioned”—usually about two years—you won’t have to spend time watering. A drip irrigation system will also save on water bills.
Xeriscaping doesn’t limit your garden to cacti and rocks. On the contrary, a well-designed xeriscape can be eye-catching and lush all year. If you limit the size of the garden, you can set aside a small portion for vegetable and cutting gardens, which demand more water.
Avoid desert xeriscapes with large areas of gravel and only a few succulents for interest. Such a spare layout offers no respite from the sun; in fact, it raises the temperature by radiating heat back into the environment.
A trickling fountain is a refreshing addition to a xeriscape garden in the hot, dry areas of the Southwest. Even the sound of splashing water is restful. A recirculating pump keeps water use to a minimum.
Lawn is allowed. Lawns require more water than most ground covers, but you can save water by confining your turf to a single focal point off the patio or between flower beds. Choose dryland grass species that need less water—tall fescues, blue grama, and buffalo grass; adjust your mower so that you don’t cut the blades too short. Elsewhere in the garden, replace your lawn with drought-tolerant ground covers, such as common yarrow, Portuguese broom, and sea thrift.
Annuals adaptable to xeriscaping in both warm and cold climates include marigolds, cockscomb, African daisy, dusty miller, gazania, moss rose, sunflowers, and zinnias.
Hill soil around the base of new trees and shrubs to create a water-catching basin. Water infrequently and deeply to encourage deep roots. After two years, you can knock down the basins and install a low-volume irrigation system.
Dryland plants do best in raised beds that shed excess water. Work with the plant’s natural defense against drought by mixing an absorbent amendment like pumice into the bed. After a rain, plants will absorb water released by the pumice long after the soil has dried.
Peat moss worked into the soil will make bare-root dryland plants root faster.
Zone your xeriscape garden according to the water needs of the plants. Group those that need more moisture, for example, where they can benefit from the runoff water from downspouts, driveways, and patios. Put plants that don’t need full sun under the dappled shade of tall trees; this will keep the soil temperature down and minimize the need for water.
Put plants in the ground just before the rainy season to take advantage of whatever natural precipitation you get. Space them far enough apart so that roots will have plenty of room to spread and won’t have to compete for moisture.
Use mulch. By keeping soil temperatures cool, a 2- or 3-inch layer of organic mulch significantly reduces water loss.
Low-volume irrigation systems operate at low pressure and deliver a low but steady amount of water. They include soaker hoses, controlled drip emitters, miniature sprayers and sprinklers, and root irrigators that soak the soil beneath the surface.
Electronic timers are available that will water your garden whether you’re at home or away. Invest in one and hook it up to your low-volume system.