GRAPEVINES

Planting

European grapes are most often grown in the long warm-season parts of the West, while American species will grow in short-season areas. A third kind, muscadine, is best suited to the South.

Plant vines in early spring or fall in a well-weeded, well-drained site amended with plenty of organic matter; they prefer a soil pH of around 6.0. Soak the roots in manure tea or in water mixed with a little bonemeal for thirty minutes before planting. Space vines 8 feet apart. If you plant in fall in a cold area, mound up the soil to prevent frost heaving. To ensure that fruits develop a high sugar content, plant the vines where they’ll receive the maximum sun and heat. Site vines against a wall or on a slope with a southern exposure. A vine-covered pergola over a deck or patio provides shade in summer. Keep in mind, though, that birds will peck unprotected fruit, which may then attract wasps and bees.

Quick propagation: In autumn, take 8-inch sections of vine, cutting just above and below a node. Bury two-thirds of their length in well-drained soil or sand. To protect from cold, cover the exposed third with a mound of sand until the next spring. Transplant the cuttings in autumn.

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Maintenance

An easy and tidy way to grow grapes on a pergola is to train a single, permanent stem—called a cordon—overhead, along the length of the structure. Fruiting canes will grow perpendicular from the cordon. Prune any canes less than a foot apart back to the cordon. Each winter, prune all canes down to two buds.

Prune a grapevine anytime it is leafless. In areas with hard winters, wait until just before growth begins in spring so that you can recognize and remove any dead or damaged wood.

Bleeding vines? Don’t worry. Grapevines naturally bleed profusely when they are pruned in spring—but are not harmed.

Mulch in spring to give grapevines the moisture they need for good production. For best results, use plenty of well-rotted manure mixed with straw.

Grapevines quickly exhaust the soil. Side-dress each vine in spring with a 6-inch ring of a complete or high-potassium fertilizer. You can also add a pound of compost per foot of row in late winter each year.

Protect fruit clusters from diseases, insects, and birds as soon as the grapes reach the size of a pea. Slip specially made bags of transparent paper or cheesecloth up to the stem and secure loosely. If you use plastic bags, punch holes for ventilation.

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