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Page numbers of illustrations appear in italics.
Adidas, 157, 169, 172
Adrian, 29–30, 32
Alaïa, Azzedine, 174
Alsop, Susan Mary, 64
Anderson, Hans Christian, 35–36
Anello & Davide, 103
Astaire, Fred, 88, 89, 146–47
athletic shoes, xi, 156–75, 177–80. See also specific brands
Avedon, Richard, 88
Avengers (TV show), 114, 114n
Azria, Florence and Serge, 232
babydoll heels, 86, 86n
Bader, Scott, 133
Badham, John, 142, 143
ballet flats or slippers, xi, 49, 86
Barbarella (film), 116–19, 163, 173
Bardot, Brigitte, 111, 116
Bata Shoe Museum, 34, 130, 198, 239–40
Baum, L. Frank, 26, 27
Bauman, Roberta Jeffries, 123, 221–22
Beatles, 102–3, 130, 184
Bee Gees, 138, 146
Belle de Jour (film), 97
Biba, 121, 127, 261n
Birkenstocks, 102, 243
Blahnik, Manolo, 151–53, 203, 204, 205, 208, 209, 211–13, 215–16, 216n, 223, 225, 227, 228, 229, 230, 234, 241
Blass, Bill, 148
Blondie, 138, 181
bobby-soxer, 86
Bock, Richard, 167
Bolan, Marc (Marc Field), 130–31
boots, xi, 5
Beatle boot, 103
Courrèges and, 97
cuissarde, xii, 116
empowerment and, 111–12, 115–16
go-go, 98, 110, 163–64
lace-up, 4, 243
Mary Quant and, 96–97, 111
Nancy Sinatra and “Boots,” 105–12
1920s, 14, 14n
1960s, 96–98
1980s, 175
Russian valenki, 14
suffragettes and, 11
women and, history of, 112
Wonder Woman’s, 39, 48–49, 112–13
Bourdin, Guy, 126
Bowerman, William J., 100, 156
Bowie, David, 131, 132
Brown, Helen Gurley, 127, 206
Brubach, Holly, 174
Budin, Barry, 227
Buñuel, Luis, 97
Bushnell, Candace, 204–5, 210
Byrne, Olive, 47–48
Cain, James M., 56, 56n, 59
Campbell, Jeffrey, 232, 234–35
Campbell, Naomi, 205, 227
Camuto, Vincent, 148–49
Carnaby Street, London, 110, 185
Carroll, Sidney, 43
Cassini, Oleg, 94
Cazden, Leni, 165
CBGB, 136–37, 138, 181
Chin, Ce Ce, 236
Chinese foot binding, 69–70
Chinese Laundry, 231
Choi, Sandra, 216–18, 227
Choo, Jimmy, xii, 216–19, 223, 229, 231, 241
chopines (pianelle), 67, 69, 70
Chung, Alexa, 225
“Cinderella” (fairy tale), 33–35, 34n, 37
Clark, Ossie, 152, 204
Clift, Anna Mae, 42
Clinton, Hillary, 91n
clogs, 127, 129, 243
Clueless (film), 200–201
CMF shoes, 60, 73, 76
Cobain, Kurt, 182, 195
Coddington, Grace, 204
Cohn, Nik, 139–39, 139n, 147
comic books, 46, 48, 114, 115, 115n. See also Wonder Woman
Converse Chuck Taylors, xii, 99, 157, 181–83, 200
Courrèges, André, 97, 116
Cox, Caroline, 14n
Crocs, xii
Cuban heels, 103, 128, 140, 141
cuissarde, xii, 116
Cukor, George, 29, 30–31
Cunningham, Bill, 232
Curry, Tim, 132, 137
D’Agrosa, Barbara, 62
Dassler, Adolf and Rudolf, 157
Day, Doris, 81–82
de Beauvoir, Simone, 125
Deep Throat (film), 125
de Havilland, Terry, 127, 132
De Palma, Brian, 142
Diana, Princess of Wales, 216, 225
Didion, Joan, 134
Di Fabrizio, Pasquale, 111
DiMaggio, Joe, 74–75, 80
Dior, Christian, 63–65, 70–71, 86, 90, 96, 228, 228n
Doc Martens, xii, 133, 177, 183–89, 190, 194, 200
1460s, 184, 200, 241, 242
Dogtown and Z-Boys (film), 179
“Doll Parts” (song), 197
dolly birds, 96, 96n
Donen, Stanley, 89–90
“Don’t Speak” (song), 193
Double Indemnity (film), 56–58, 56n, 59
Dress for Success (Molloy), 154
Dumont, Tom, 192, 193
Durbin, Deanna, 24–26
80%20, 232, 236
Elkouby, David, 222–23, 224
Ellis, Perry, 190
“Elves and the Shoemaker, The” (fairy tale), 203
Ephron, Nora, 125
Epstein, Brian, 139
Erlandson, Eric, 197
Esquire magazine, 42–43, 125
fairy tales, 33–37, 203, 224, 228
fashion. See specific decades
Fast Times at Ridgemont High (film), 177–78, 179
Feminine Mystique, The (Friedan), 100–101
feminism, xiii
boots and empowerment, 111–12, 115–16
Courtney Love and women in rock, 193, 195–99
glass ceiling and, 153
Ms. magazine and, 125
1970s, 125, 138
Second Wavers, 99–102, 114, 125, 197
Third Wavers, 198
urban single woman and, 206
valkyrie-type woman, 116
women in space program, 118
women’s suffrage, 11–12
Wonder Woman and, 47, 115, 115n, 125
femme fatale, 53, 55, 56–57, 60, 60n, 116
Ferragamo, Salvatore, 1–4, 3, 6–11, 16–22, 76–78, 89, 236, 249n
platform shoes and, 20–22, 31
shoe philosophy, 9–10
study of women’s feet, 10, 17, 76
three categories of women and, 76–77
Field, Patricia, 206
film industry, 8, 57
Adrian in, 29–30
Audrey Hepburn and, 88–90, 92, 94, 99
celebrity culture, current, 225–30
femme fatale in movies, 53, 55–58
Ferragamo and, 10–11, 76, 77–78, 89
first film noir, 56–58
Jane Fonda and, 116–19, 163–64
John Travolta and, 138–47
Lana Turner and, 40–42, 58–61
Marilyn Monroe and, 60–63, 73–81, 74n, 88–89, 90, 92, 101, 121
MGM auction, 121–24, 122n
1970s NYC nightlife and, 138–47
ruby slippers and Wizard of Oz, 23–37, 221–24
sentimental tastes, 31
shoes introducing character, 56–57, 60, 61, 81, 146, 219
shoes supplied by stars, 50–51, 58
Vans and, 177–78
World War II and, 50, 52–53
Fireman, Paul, 157, 160
Fisher, Jerome, 148–49
flats, xi, 85, 85, 86, 89, 90, 91, 91n, 94
Fogarty, Anne, 82
Fonda, Jane, 116–19, 161–68, 173
Fonda, Peter, 109
Fonteray, Jacques, 116
Forever 21, 232
Fraser, Margot, 102
Freud, Sigmund, 45, 45n
Friedan, Betty, 100–101
Funny Face (film), 88–90
Galliano, John, 204
Garbo, Greta, 121
Garfield, John, 59
Garity, Troy, 163n
Garland, Judy, 23–29, 33, 40, 123, 223, 224, 252n, 253n28
Gaultier, Jean Paul, 174
Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (film), 58, 77, 79, 81
Gerton, Manuel, 19
Gibb, Barry, 141
Gittelson, Natalie, 109, 117–18
Givenchy, Hubert de, 88, 89
glass slipper, 33–35, 37
go-go boots, 98, 110, 163–64
Goodyear, Charles, 98
Grable, Betty, 44
Griggs, Bill, 184
grunge music, 180–81, 188–90, 242
Gucci, 218, 225
H&M, 232
Halston, 94, 135, 147–48, 149, 207n
Hardy, Pierre, 229
Hayden, Tom, 163, 164, 167
Hazlewood, Lee, 105–12, 109n
Head, Edith, 51
Heckerling, Amy, 200, 201
Hefner, Hugh, 74, 74n, 101
Hello Stiletto shoe club, 231–32
Hepburn, Audrey, 88–90, 92, 94, 99
H. H. Brown, 232
high heels, xi, 2n, 130, 221
CMF shoes, 60, 73, 76
effects of, 14, 44–45, 85–86, 251n14
fashion vs. function and, 170
luxury shoes and workingwomen, 211–19
1920s, 13, 14
1950s, 81, 91, 258n81
1970s, 136–37
NYC transit strike and, 159
platform pumps, 227
post–2008 recession, 243
power pump, 56–57, 151–56
professional women and, 153–56
sex and, 44–45, 45n, 115, 254n44
stilettos, 64–65, 67–71, 68n, 85, 91n, 117, 145n, 156, 228
women’s walk and, 44, 68, 78, 86, 211, 231
Hilton, Paris, 225–26
Hole, 195, 196, 197, 202
Hollywood. See film industry
Hyland, Diana, 142, 143
Iggy Pop, 130–31
Internet, bloggers, and shoes, 232–33, 235
It Girls, xiv, 88, 191, 218, 225
Jagger, Bianca, 127, 135, 148, 152
Jagger, Mick, 132, 135, 196
John, Elton, 133
Johnson, Betsey, 137
Johnson, Lyndon, 113
Jolie, Angelina, 227
Jones, Gloria, 131
Jong, Erica, 206
Jourdan, Charles, 126, 228, 228n
“Just a Girl” (song), 193–94, 197
Kanal, Tony, 192, 194
Kanigher, Robert, 113
Karan, Donna, 148
Karl, Stuart, 162
Keds, 99, 157
Kennedy, Jacqueline, 93–94, 99, 148
Pilgrim Pump and, 97
Kennedy, John F., 93, 113
Kennedy, Robert, 113
King, Martin Luther, Jr., 114
King, Michael Patrick, 204
Kirkwood, Nicholas, 229
Klein, Anne, 148
Klein, Calvin, 148
Knight, Philip “Buck,” 100, 156, 169
Kork-Ease, 127
Kors, Michael, 217
Lady Gaga, 227
LaFond, Julie, 168
L. A. Gear, 172
Lagerfeld, Karl, 174, 201
Langley, Noel, 26–27, 32, 35
Larlarb, Suttirat, 207, 226–27
Léger, Hervé, 174
LeRoy, Mervyn, 41
Levine, Beth, 111, 112
Levy, Thomas, 107
“Little Mermaid, The” (Andersen), 36
Lively, Blake, 225
Live Through This (album), 195, 197–98
loafers, 89, 91n. See also flats
Lohan, Lindsay, 227
Loos, Anita, 58, 77
Lopez, Jennifer, 227–28
Louboutin, Christian, x, 223, 227–30, 234
“Louboutins” (song), 227–28
Love, Courtney, 193, 195–99, 202
Lovelace, Linda, 125
Madden, Steve, 199, 233
Madison Harding, 227
Madonna, 167, 174, 212
Magli, Bruno, 202
Malkemus, George, 211
Mallgrave, Lesley, 166–67, 168
Marston, William Moulton, 46, 47–48, 55, 113
Marx, Gilda, 165
Marx, Zeppo, 41
Mary Janes, xi, 14, 86, 241, 242
in Clueless, 200, 201
kinderwhore style, 195–99
Steve Madden’s Mary Lou, 199
May, Mona, 199, 200, 202
Mayer, Louis B., 23, 24
Mayock, Lisa, 232
McBride, Ty, 234–35
McLaren, Malcolm, 126
Mellon, Tamara, 216–18, 227
men’s fashion. See also Travolta, John
elevated shoes, 44, 128–31, 140–41, 145n (see also platform shoes)
1970s, 128–31
Peacock Revolution, 102–3, 128
poulaine, 128–29, 129n
MGM studios, 24, 25, 26, 27, 30, 52–53, 58
auction, 121–24, 122n, 221
Miller, George, 18
Miller, Paul, 60
Miller, Sienna, 225
Minnelli, Liza, 148
Miranda, Carmen, 22
Mitchell, Betty, 178
Mitchell, Joni, 196
Molloy, John T., 153–54
Monroe, Marilyn, 60, 61–62, 63, 73–76, 74n, 77–80, 81, 88–89, 90, 92, 101, 121, 225
Moss, Kate, 225
Motown, 138
M.R.S. degree, 210, 210n
Ms. magazine, 125
mules, 81. See also CMF shoes
My Fair Lady (film), 90
My Life So Far (Fonda), 116
My So-Called Life (TV series), 190, 201
Napoli, Joe, 30
New Balance, 169, 172
New Look, 63–65, 70–71, 88, 90, 96
Newton-John, Olivia, 159
New Wave, 111
Niagara (film), 78
Nicholson, Jack, 135
Nike, 100, 156–57, 160, 168–69, 171, 172, 179
1920s, 12–19
boots (valenki), 14, 14n
flappers, 12–13, 198, 199
popular fashions, 13
Ruth Snyder murder case, 14–16, 56n
shoe styles, 13–14
1930s, 19–37
Ferragamo and wedges, 19–22
film industry and, 23
Great Depression, 19, 31
popular fashions, 31
red as It color, 32–33
ruby slippers and, 23–37
shoe styles, 31–32
1940s, 42–65
average number of shoes, 49
boots as galoshes, 48
CMF shoes, 60
femme fatale and, 53, 55, 56–57
hairdos and “Victory Bob,” 52–53
high heels and sexuality, 44–45
Lana Turner and, 40–42
power pump, 55, 55
shoe rationing, 49–50, 51–52, 56, 59
shoe styles, xiv, 48, 52, 53, 64–65
stilettos, 64–65
Varga Girl, 43–46, 53
women’s fashion and Dior, 63–65
women’s transformation and Marilyn Monroe, 62–63
Wonder Woman and, 46–49, 53
workingwomen, 52–53, 63
World War II, 40, 52–53, 62–63
1950s, xii, 67–92
fashion and beatniks, 87–88, 90–91
fashion and bobby-soxers, 86–87
fashion and wives, 81, 82–83
flats, 85, 85, 86
hemlines, 70
high heels, 81
housewives, 87
Marilyn Monroe and, 77–80
popular fashions, 68
shoe production and shoe-buying, 80
shoe styles, xiv, 71
stilettos, 67–71
view of women, 91–92
women’s identity, 71, 81, 82–83
1960s, xii, 93–127
American “mod,” 98, 110
Beatles and Beatle boot, 102–3
Birkenstocks, 99–102
civil rights movement, 114, 138
democratization of footwear, 103
empowerment and, 111–12, 115–16
end of, 124
feminism and, 99–102, 114
go-go boots, 97–98
hippies, 110, 125, 129
Jackie Kennedy and, 93–94, 97, 99
Jane Fonda and, 116–19
Mary Quant and, 96, 118
miniskirt, 96–97, 96n
Nancy Sinatra and, 105–12, 111n
New Wave, 111
Peacock Revolution, 102–3, 128
Pilgrim Pump, 97
popular fashions, 96–97, 112
sexual liberation, 116–19
sneakers, 98–100
youth culture and, 94–100
1970s, 127–56
American punk rock, 136, 137, 181, 182
androgyny and, 127, 130–31, 131n, 132
antihero and motorcycle movies, 134
athletic shoes, 156–58
Betsey Johnson and, 137
CBGB, 136–37, 138
demise of couture, 137
democratization of fashion, 137, 148–49
disco, 147–48
feminism and, 125, 138
homosexuality and, 126
John Travolta and, 138–47
London punk scene, 126
Manolo Blahnik and, 151–53
Mary Quant and, 137
MGM auction, 121–24
music and fashion, 135–38
New Journalism, 139
platform shoes, 127–34, 131n, 140–41, 144–47, 145n, 148, 152–53
popular fashions, 127, 136, 148
power dressing, 153–56
power pump, 151–56
The Rocky Horror Picture Show, 132–33, 137, 138
sex and pornography, 124–27, 132
shoe styles, 127–31, 136–37, 148–49
Studio 54, 135–36, 138
1980s, 156–89
athletic shoes and, 159–75
boots, 175
business women and, 159, 174
couture returns, 174
cultural emphasis on money, 159, 174
fitness craze, 159–75
grunge, Chuck Taylors, and Doc Martens, 180–90
Jane Fonda and Workout, 161–68
Lycra and fashion trends, 174
NYC transit strike and shoes, 158–60
retro dress, 187
Vans and individualism, 177–80
1990s, 181, 189–202
female outcasts and Doc Martens, 194
feminism and, 198
Girl power, 196, 199, 202
Mary Janes and Kinderwhore style, 195–99, 202
money, celebrity, and gender, 201–2
O. J. Simpson trial, 201–2
popular fashions, 241–42
women in rock music, 191–97
young girls, dress style of, 199–201
Nine West, 149, 233
Nirvana, 182, 190, 195
No Doubt, 191–93, 194
N. W. Ayer & Sons, 99
O’Brien, Richard, 132–33
Olsen, Mary-Kate and Ashley, 225, 227, 228
O’Neil, Denny, 114–15
O’Shea, Melissa, 231–32
oxfords and brogues, xi, 4, 4n, 48
Palin, Sarah, 91n
Pallenberg, Anita, 132
Parker, Sarah Jessica, 204, 206–7, 207n, 208
Patti Smith Group, 181
Penfield, Wilder, 45n
Penn, Sean, 177–78
Peralta, Stacy, 179
Perrault, Charles, 34–35, 34n
Peter, H. G., 48
Petty, George, 42–43, 61, 65
“Physical” (song), 159
Piaggi, Anna, 204
Pilgrim Pump, 97
Pillow Talk (film), 81–82
Plant, Robert, 131
platform shoes, xi, xiv, 1, 21, 121, 127–34, 131n, 145n, 148, 152–72, 261n
Alexander McQueen and, 237
Carmen Miranda and, 22
Christian Louboutin and, 227, 230
Ferragamo and, 20–22
Rocky Horror Picture Show, 132–33
Saturday Night Fever, 140–41, 144–47
Tommy and the Who, 133
Pogrebin, Letty, 125
Postman Always Rings Twice, The (film), 59–61, 60n
poulaine, 128–29, 129n
power pump, 55, 55, 56–57, 60, 60n
Puma, 157, 182
Quant, Mary, 96, 110–11, 118, 137, 184
“Wet” collection, 97
Rabanne, Paco, 116
Ramachandran, V. S., 45n
Ramones, 136, 138, 181
Randall, Loeffler, ix, 229
“Red Shoes, The” (Andersen), 35–36
Reeboks, 157–58, 160, 170n, 179, 241
Freestyles, 167–68, 169, 170, 171–72, 174
Pro Fitness Walkers, 172
Reynolds, Burt, 126–27
Reynolds, Debbie, 122
R. Griggs company, 133, 184, 188
Richards, Keith, 132
Ride, Sally, 118
Riot Grrrl movement, 196
Rivera, Doreen, 165, 166
Rockwell, Norman, 53
Rocky Horror Picture Show, The (film), 132–33, 137, 138
Rooney, Mickey, 25, 31
Rosenman, Hilary, 227
Ross, Diana, 138
Rossi, Sergio, 223
Rovetto, Mary, 258n81
ruby slippers. See Wizard of Oz
Running with Heels (ezine), 232
Russell, Jane, 44, 81
Sabrina (film), 90
saddle shoes, 86
Saint Laurent, Yves, 90–91, 94–95, 97, 111, 127, 225
Saks Fifth Avenue, 19, 112
sandals, xi, xiv, 4n, 11, 20, 21, 48, 51, 52, 60, 65, 76, 81, 102, 113, 152, 205, 208, 225, 227, 229, 234, 235, 237. See also CMF shoes; high heels
Sassoon, Vidal, 216
Saturday Night Fever (film), 127, 134, 138–47
Scorsese, Martin, 145
Sea of Shoes, 232
Second Sex, The (de Beauvoir), 125
Sekowsky, Mike, 114–15
Semmelhack, Elizabeth, 34, 34n, 198–99, 214, 236, 239–40, 251n14, 254n44
Seven Year Itch, The (film), 73–76, 78–80
Sex and the City (film), 215–16, 216n
Sex and the City (TV series), xiii, 205–10, 207n, 213–15, 227, 228
“A Woman’s Right to Shoes,” 208–9
Sex Pistols, 126, 138
Seychelles, 232
Shepherd, Cybill, 171
Shields, Brooke, 135
shoe clips, 13
Shoe Goddess, (ezine), 232
shoe history. See also shoes and social status; specific decades
ancient Greece, x, 21
average number of shoes per woman, xii
Chinese foot binding and, 69–70
chopines (pianelle), 67, 69, 70
consumer culture and, 6
diversity of shoes, x, xi
DuPont and low-cost artificial materials, xii, 97, 98
factory-made, xi–xii, 5–6, 7, 8
first decade of twentieth century, 4
French court of Louis XIV, x, 35–36, 129, 133–34
function vs. fashion, 170, 174
heel heights, xiv
high heels, 130
left-right foot patterns, xi
nineteenth century custom shoemakers, xi
pop culture and, xiii–xiv
poulaine, 128–29, 129n
red soles, 229
shoe sales and recession, xiii, 249n
shoe last, 2, 2n
shoe materials, x–xi, xii
fiberglass, 133
leather substitutes, x, 97–98
natural, xi, 127
plastics, x, 97, 98
rubber soles, 98–99
today, 237
shoes and social status, x, xii, 95
Chinese foot binding and, 69–70
chopines (pianelle), 69
Christian Louboutin’s red sole, x, 227–30
cost of shoes and, x, 205, 207–8, 209, 216, 216n, 226, 227, 229, 230
democratization of footwear, 103
designer shoes, contemporary, 207–8, 225, 227–30
Jimmy Choos, xii, 216–19, 223
Louis XIV of France and, x, 35–36, 129, 133–34
Manolo Blahnik and, 152–53, 204, 205, 208, 209, 211–13, 215–16, 216n, 223, 225, 227
NYC transit strike and, 158–60
1950s, 82–83
originals vs. knock-offs, 231–32
postwar style and, 68–69
poulaine, 128–29, 129n
Sioux, x, 229
stilettos and, 68
Shrimpton, Jean, 96
Siewart, Michael, 223
Simon, Carly, 147
Sinatra, Frank, 106–7
Sinatra, Nancy, 105–12, 109n, 111n, 117
slingbacks, 48, 52, 73, 76, 126
slippers, 4, 49, 69
Cinderella’s glass, 33–34, 34n, 35
Dorothy’s ruby slippers, 23, 27–30, 31–33, 35, 36–37, 122–24
Slumdog Millionaire (film), 226–27
Smart, David, 43
Smithsonian Museum, 222
sneakers, xi, 93, 98–100, 156–58. See also specific brands
Snow White (film), 25, 29
Snyder, Ruth, 14–16, 56n
“So Long Babe” (song), 109, 110
Spears, Britney, 202
Specials, 187
Spice Girls, 202
“Spiderwebs” (song), 194
Spungen, Nancy, 136
“Stand by Your Man” (song), 111–12
Stanwyck, Barbara, 56
Star, Darren, 204
“Stayin’ Alive” (song), 143, 144
Stefani, Eric, 192, 193
Stefani, Gwen, 191–95
Steinem, Gloria, 101, 115, 125
Stephenson, W. W., 51
Stigwood, Robert, 138, 140
stilettos, 67–71, 85, 91n, 117, 145n, 156, 228. See also Blahnik, Manolo; Vivier, Roger
walking in, 67–68, 68n, 145n
Strummer, Pete, 189
Studio 54, 135–36, 138, 147, 148, 204
Summer, Donna, 138
Surface to Air, 232
Tate, Sharon, 124
Taylor, Charles “Chuck,” 99
Taylor, Elizabeth, 121, 148
Taylor, James, 147
Temple, Shirley, 24, 26, 31
tennis shoes. See sneakers
“These Boots Are Made for Walkin’ ” (song), 107–12, 109n
They Won’t Forget (film), 41, 58
Thorpe, Richard, 28, 29, 30
toe box, 4n
Tommy (rock opera), 133, 138
TOMS, 237
Topshop, 232
Townshend, Pete, 189
Tragic Kingdom (album), 191–94
trapeze dress, 90–91
Travolta, John, 127, 134, 135, 138–47
T-Rex, 130
T-strap, 14, 48
Turner, Lana, 40–42, 44, 52–53, 58–61
Turner, Tina, 133
20th Century-Fox, 24, 63
Twiggy, 96, 97
2000–present
camaraderie of women, 209–10, 240
celebrity culture, 225–30
Christian Louboutin and, 227–30
democratization of fashion, 225, 232, 233–37
E! network “shoe cam,” 219
haute couture, 205, 225
high heels, 211–19, 221
Internet, bloggers, and shoes, 232–33, 235
Jimmy Choos, 216–19
Manolo Blahnik and, 203, 204–5, 209, 211–13, 215–16
popular fashions, 224–25, 235–36
Sex and the City and, 205–10, 213–15
shoe consciousness, 221
shoe fashion revivals, 243
shoe obsession, 209, 241
shoes as metaphor, 208, 214–15
television as trendsetting, 216
urban single woman, 205–19, 210n
women and marriage, 212, 215
women’s success, appearance, and number of shoes, 213
Two Tone, 187, 194
Tyrell, Trace, 171
U.S. Rubber Company, 99, 100
Vadim, Roger, 116, 118
valkyrie, 116
vamp, 4, 4n
Van Doren, Paul, 99, 178, 180
Van Doren, Steve, 178–80
Vans, 99, 177–80, 182
Varga Girl, 43–46, 53, 61
Vargas, Alberto, 42–46, 65
Varvatos, John, 130–31, 181–82
Vena Cava and Viva Vena, 232
Vicious, Sid, 136
Vietnam War, 113, 124, 164
Vintage Shoes (Cox), 14n
Vivier, Roger, 64–65, 70, 76, 97, 223, 228
Vogue, 71, 95, 151, 201, 204, 232
von Brandenstein, Patrizia, 140, 142, 143, 145n
Vreeland, Diana, 95, 151–52
Warhol, Andy, 135, 148
Warner, Kent, 122, 123–24, 222
wedges/wedgies, xi, xiv, 3, 21–22, 31, 48, 64, 67, 236. See also platform shoes
Weisz, David, 122–23
Weitzman, Stuart, 223
Welcome Back, Kotter (TV series), 142
Westwood, Vivienne, 126
Who, 133
Wife Dressing (Fogarty), 82
Wilder, Billy, 56, 75, 80
Wilkerson, W. R., 41
winklepickers, 103
Winters, Shelley, 60
Wintour, Anna, 204
Wizard of Oz (film), 26–33, 39
anniversary and updated ruby slipper designs, 223–24
Christie’s auction of ruby slippers, 221–24
Judy Garland as Dorothy, 26, 27–29, 253n28
MGM auction and, 11n, 122–23
MGM auction of ruby slippers, 122n, 221
ruby slippers, 23, 27–30, 31–33, 35, 36–37, 122–24
Woman’s Dress for Success Book, The (Molloy), 154
women’s suffrage, xiii, 11–12
Wonderful World of Oz, The (Baum), 26, 27
Wonder Woman, 46–49, 53, 55, 112–15
boots of, 39, 48–49, 113
feminism and, 47, 115, 115n, 125
workingwomen, 258n81
Manolo Blahnik and, 211–13
professional women and shoes, 153–56
urban single woman, 205–19, 210n
women’s success, appearance, and number of shoes, 213
World War II and, 52–53, 63
Workout (video), 165
World War I, 5, 12
World War II, 31, 39–40, 43, 59, 113
dogfaces, 45, 45n
Ferragamo and, 19–22
Rosie the Riveter, 53
shoe rationing, 49–50, 51–52, 56, 59, 255n49
Varga Girl and pin-ups, 43–44, 61
women and, 40, 52–53, 57, 62–63
Wynette, Tammy, 112
Yeardye, Tom, 216, 217
Young, Adrian, 192
“You Should Be Dancing” (song), 146
Zara, 232