Index

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Page numbers of illustrations appear in italics.

Adidas, 157, 169, 172

Adrian, 29–30, 32

Alaïa, Azzedine, 174

Alsop, Susan Mary, 64

Anderson, Hans Christian, 35–36

Anello & Davide, 103

Astaire, Fred, 88, 89, 146–47

athletic shoes, xi, 156–75, 177–80. See also specific brands

Avedon, Richard, 88

Avengers (TV show), 114, 114n

Azria, Florence and Serge, 232

babydoll heels, 86, 86n

Bader, Scott, 133

Badham, John, 142, 143

ballet flats or slippers, xi, 49, 86

Barbarella (film), 116–19, 163, 173

Bardot, Brigitte, 111, 116

Bata Shoe Museum, 34, 130, 198, 239–40

Baum, L. Frank, 26, 27

Bauman, Roberta Jeffries, 123, 221–22

Beatles, 102–3, 130, 184

Bee Gees, 138, 146

Belle de Jour (film), 97

Biba, 121, 127, 261n

Birkenstocks, 102, 243

Blahnik, Manolo, 151–53, 203, 204, 205, 208, 209, 211–13, 215–16, 216n, 223, 225, 227, 228, 229, 230, 234, 241

Blass, Bill, 148

Blondie, 138, 181

bobby-soxer, 86

Bock, Richard, 167

Bolan, Marc (Marc Field), 130–31

boots, xi, 5

Beatle boot, 103

Courrèges and, 97

cuissarde, xii, 116

empowerment and, 111–12, 115–16

go-go, 98, 110, 163–64

lace-up, 4, 243

Mary Quant and, 96–97, 111

Nancy Sinatra and “Boots,” 105–12

1920s, 14, 14n

1960s, 96–98

1980s, 175

Russian valenki, 14

suffragettes and, 11

women and, history of, 112

Wonder Woman’s, 39, 48–49, 112–13

Bourdin, Guy, 126

Bowerman, William J., 100, 156

Bowie, David, 131, 132

Brown, Helen Gurley, 127, 206

Brubach, Holly, 174

Budin, Barry, 227

Buñuel, Luis, 97

Bushnell, Candace, 204–5, 210

Byrne, Olive, 47–48

Cain, James M., 56, 56n, 59

Campbell, Jeffrey, 232, 234–35

Campbell, Naomi, 205, 227

Camuto, Vincent, 148–49

Carnaby Street, London, 110, 185

Carroll, Sidney, 43

Cassini, Oleg, 94

Cazden, Leni, 165

CBGB, 136–37, 138, 181

Chin, Ce Ce, 236

Chinese foot binding, 69–70

Chinese Laundry, 231

Choi, Sandra, 216–18, 227

Choo, Jimmy, xii, 216–19, 223, 229, 231, 241

chopines (pianelle), 67, 69, 70

Chung, Alexa, 225

“Cinderella” (fairy tale), 33–35, 34n, 37

Clark, Ossie, 152, 204

Clift, Anna Mae, 42

Clinton, Hillary, 91n

clogs, 127, 129, 243

Clueless (film), 200–201

CMF shoes, 60, 73, 76

Cobain, Kurt, 182, 195

Coddington, Grace, 204

Cohn, Nik, 139–39, 139n, 147

comic books, 46, 48, 114, 115, 115n. See also Wonder Woman

Converse Chuck Taylors, xii, 99, 157, 181–83, 200

Courrèges, André, 97, 116

Cox, Caroline, 14n

Crocs, xii

Cuban heels, 103, 128, 140, 141

cuissarde, xii, 116

Cukor, George, 29, 30–31

Cunningham, Bill, 232

Curry, Tim, 132, 137

D’Agrosa, Barbara, 62

Dassler, Adolf and Rudolf, 157

Day, Doris, 81–82

de Beauvoir, Simone, 125

Deep Throat (film), 125

de Havilland, Terry, 127, 132

De Palma, Brian, 142

Diana, Princess of Wales, 216, 225

Didion, Joan, 134

Di Fabrizio, Pasquale, 111

DiMaggio, Joe, 74–75, 80

Dior, Christian, 63–65, 70–71, 86, 90, 96, 228, 228n

Doc Martens, xii, 133, 177, 183–89, 190, 194, 200

1460s, 184, 200, 241, 242

Dogtown and Z-Boys (film), 179

“Doll Parts” (song), 197

dolly birds, 96, 96n

Donen, Stanley, 89–90

“Don’t Speak” (song), 193

Double Indemnity (film), 56–58, 56n, 59

Dress for Success (Molloy), 154

Dumont, Tom, 192, 193

Durbin, Deanna, 24–26

80%20, 232, 236

Elkouby, David, 222–23, 224

Ellis, Perry, 190

“Elves and the Shoemaker, The” (fairy tale), 203

Ephron, Nora, 125

Epstein, Brian, 139

Erlandson, Eric, 197

Esquire magazine, 42–43, 125

fairy tales, 33–37, 203, 224, 228

fashion. See specific decades

Fast Times at Ridgemont High (film), 177–78, 179

Feminine Mystique, The (Friedan), 100–101

feminism, xiii

boots and empowerment, 111–12, 115–16

Courtney Love and women in rock, 193, 195–99

glass ceiling and, 153

Ms. magazine and, 125

1970s, 125, 138

Second Wavers, 99–102, 114, 125, 197

Third Wavers, 198

urban single woman and, 206

valkyrie-type woman, 116

women in space program, 118

women’s suffrage, 11–12

Wonder Woman and, 47, 115, 115n, 125

femme fatale, 53, 55, 56–57, 60, 60n, 116

Ferragamo, Salvatore, 1–4, 3, 6–11, 16–22, 76–78, 89, 236, 249n

platform shoes and, 20–22, 31

shoe philosophy, 9–10

study of women’s feet, 10, 17, 76

three categories of women and, 76–77

Field, Patricia, 206

film industry, 8, 57

Adrian in, 29–30

Audrey Hepburn and, 88–90, 92, 94, 99

celebrity culture, current, 225–30

femme fatale in movies, 53, 55–58

Ferragamo and, 10–11, 76, 77–78, 89

first film noir, 56–58

Jane Fonda and, 116–19, 163–64

John Travolta and, 138–47

Lana Turner and, 40–42, 58–61

Marilyn Monroe and, 60–63, 73–81, 74n, 88–89, 90, 92, 101, 121

MGM auction, 121–24, 122n

1970s NYC nightlife and, 138–47

ruby slippers and Wizard of Oz, 23–37, 221–24

sentimental tastes, 31

shoes introducing character, 56–57, 60, 61, 81, 146, 219

shoes supplied by stars, 50–51, 58

Vans and, 177–78

World War II and, 50, 52–53

Fireman, Paul, 157, 160

Fisher, Jerome, 148–49

flats, xi, 85, 85, 86, 89, 90, 91, 91n, 94

Fogarty, Anne, 82

Fonda, Jane, 116–19, 161–68, 173

Fonda, Peter, 109

Fonteray, Jacques, 116

Forever 21, 232

Fraser, Margot, 102

Freud, Sigmund, 45, 45n

Friedan, Betty, 100–101

Funny Face (film), 88–90

Galliano, John, 204

Garbo, Greta, 121

Garfield, John, 59

Garity, Troy, 163n

Garland, Judy, 23–29, 33, 40, 123, 223, 224, 252n, 253n28

Gaultier, Jean Paul, 174

Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (film), 58, 77, 79, 81

Gerton, Manuel, 19

Gibb, Barry, 141

Gittelson, Natalie, 109, 117–18

Givenchy, Hubert de, 88, 89

glass slipper, 33–35, 37

go-go boots, 98, 110, 163–64

Goodyear, Charles, 98

Grable, Betty, 44

Griggs, Bill, 184

grunge music, 180–81, 188–90, 242

Gucci, 218, 225

H&M, 232

Halston, 94, 135, 147–48, 149, 207n

Hardy, Pierre, 229

Hayden, Tom, 163, 164, 167

Hazlewood, Lee, 105–12, 109n

Head, Edith, 51

Heckerling, Amy, 200, 201

Hefner, Hugh, 74, 74n, 101

Hello Stiletto shoe club, 231–32

Hepburn, Audrey, 88–90, 92, 94, 99

H. H. Brown, 232

high heels, xi, 2n, 130, 221

CMF shoes, 60, 73, 76

effects of, 14, 44–45, 85–86, 251n14

fashion vs. function and, 170

luxury shoes and workingwomen, 211–19

1920s, 13, 14

1950s, 81, 91, 258n81

1970s, 136–37

NYC transit strike and, 159

platform pumps, 227

post–2008 recession, 243

power pump, 56–57, 151–56

professional women and, 153–56

sex and, 44–45, 45n, 115, 254n44

stilettos, 64–65, 67–71, 68n, 85, 91n, 117, 145n, 156, 228

women’s walk and, 44, 68, 78, 86, 211, 231

Hilton, Paris, 225–26

Hole, 195, 196, 197, 202

Hollywood. See film industry

Hyland, Diana, 142, 143

Iggy Pop, 130–31

Internet, bloggers, and shoes, 232–33, 235

It Girls, xiv, 88, 191, 218, 225

Jagger, Bianca, 127, 135, 148, 152

Jagger, Mick, 132, 135, 196

John, Elton, 133

Johnson, Betsey, 137

Johnson, Lyndon, 113

Jolie, Angelina, 227

Jones, Gloria, 131

Jong, Erica, 206

Jourdan, Charles, 126, 228, 228n

“Just a Girl” (song), 193–94, 197

Kanal, Tony, 192, 194

Kanigher, Robert, 113

Karan, Donna, 148

Karl, Stuart, 162

Keds, 99, 157

Kennedy, Jacqueline, 93–94, 99, 148

Pilgrim Pump and, 97

Kennedy, John F., 93, 113

Kennedy, Robert, 113

King, Martin Luther, Jr., 114

King, Michael Patrick, 204

Kirkwood, Nicholas, 229

Klein, Anne, 148

Klein, Calvin, 148

Knight, Philip “Buck,” 100, 156, 169

Kork-Ease, 127

Kors, Michael, 217

Lady Gaga, 227

LaFond, Julie, 168

L. A. Gear, 172

Lagerfeld, Karl, 174, 201

Langley, Noel, 26–27, 32, 35

Larlarb, Suttirat, 207, 226–27

Léger, Hervé, 174

LeRoy, Mervyn, 41

Levine, Beth, 111, 112

Levy, Thomas, 107

“Little Mermaid, The” (Andersen), 36

Lively, Blake, 225

Live Through This (album), 195, 197–98

loafers, 89, 91n. See also flats

Lohan, Lindsay, 227

Loos, Anita, 58, 77

Lopez, Jennifer, 227–28

Louboutin, Christian, x, 223, 227–30, 234

“Louboutins” (song), 227–28

Love, Courtney, 193, 195–99, 202

Lovelace, Linda, 125

Madden, Steve, 199, 233

Madison Harding, 227

Madonna, 167, 174, 212

Magli, Bruno, 202

Malkemus, George, 211

Mallgrave, Lesley, 166–67, 168

Marston, William Moulton, 46, 47–48, 55, 113

Marx, Gilda, 165

Marx, Zeppo, 41

Mary Janes, xi, 14, 86, 241, 242

in Clueless, 200, 201

kinderwhore style, 195–99

Steve Madden’s Mary Lou, 199

May, Mona, 199, 200, 202

Mayer, Louis B., 23, 24

Mayock, Lisa, 232

McBride, Ty, 234–35

McLaren, Malcolm, 126

Mellon, Tamara, 216–18, 227

men’s fashion. See also Travolta, John

elevated shoes, 44, 128–31, 140–41, 145n (see also platform shoes)

1970s, 128–31

Peacock Revolution, 102–3, 128

poulaine, 128–29, 129n

MGM studios, 24, 25, 26, 27, 30, 52–53, 58

auction, 121–24, 122n, 221

Miller, George, 18

Miller, Paul, 60

Miller, Sienna, 225

Minnelli, Liza, 148

Miranda, Carmen, 22

Mitchell, Betty, 178

Mitchell, Joni, 196

Molloy, John T., 153–54

Monroe, Marilyn, 60, 61–62, 63, 73–76, 74n, 77–80, 81, 88–89, 90, 92, 101, 121, 225

Moss, Kate, 225

Motown, 138

M.R.S. degree, 210, 210n

Ms. magazine, 125

mules, 81. See also CMF shoes

My Fair Lady (film), 90

My Life So Far (Fonda), 116

My So-Called Life (TV series), 190, 201

Napoli, Joe, 30

New Balance, 169, 172

New Look, 63–65, 70–71, 88, 90, 96

Newton-John, Olivia, 159

New Wave, 111

Niagara (film), 78

Nicholson, Jack, 135

Nike, 100, 156–57, 160, 168–69, 171, 172, 179

1920s, 12–19

boots (valenki), 14, 14n

flappers, 12–13, 198, 199

popular fashions, 13

Ruth Snyder murder case, 14–16, 56n

shoe styles, 13–14

1930s, 19–37

Ferragamo and wedges, 19–22

film industry and, 23

Great Depression, 19, 31

popular fashions, 31

red as It color, 32–33

ruby slippers and, 23–37

shoe styles, 31–32

1940s, 42–65

average number of shoes, 49

boots as galoshes, 48

CMF shoes, 60

femme fatale and, 53, 55, 56–57

hairdos and “Victory Bob,” 52–53

high heels and sexuality, 44–45

Lana Turner and, 40–42

power pump, 55, 55

shoe rationing, 49–50, 51–52, 56, 59

shoe styles, xiv, 48, 52, 53, 64–65

stilettos, 64–65

Varga Girl, 43–46, 53

women’s fashion and Dior, 63–65

women’s transformation and Marilyn Monroe, 62–63

Wonder Woman and, 46–49, 53

workingwomen, 52–53, 63

World War II, 40, 52–53, 62–63

1950s, xii, 67–92

fashion and beatniks, 87–88, 90–91

fashion and bobby-soxers, 86–87

fashion and wives, 81, 82–83

flats, 85, 85, 86

hemlines, 70

high heels, 81

housewives, 87

Marilyn Monroe and, 77–80

popular fashions, 68

shoe production and shoe-buying, 80

shoe styles, xiv, 71

stilettos, 67–71

view of women, 91–92

women’s identity, 71, 81, 82–83

1960s, xii, 93–127

American “mod,” 98, 110

Beatles and Beatle boot, 102–3

Birkenstocks, 99–102

civil rights movement, 114, 138

democratization of footwear, 103

empowerment and, 111–12, 115–16

end of, 124

feminism and, 99–102, 114

go-go boots, 97–98

hippies, 110, 125, 129

Jackie Kennedy and, 93–94, 97, 99

Jane Fonda and, 116–19

Mary Quant and, 96, 118

miniskirt, 96–97, 96n

Nancy Sinatra and, 105–12, 111n

New Wave, 111

Peacock Revolution, 102–3, 128

Pilgrim Pump, 97

popular fashions, 96–97, 112

sexual liberation, 116–19

sneakers, 98–100

youth culture and, 94–100

1970s, 127–56

American punk rock, 136, 137, 181, 182

androgyny and, 127, 130–31, 131n, 132

antihero and motorcycle movies, 134

athletic shoes, 156–58

Betsey Johnson and, 137

CBGB, 136–37, 138

demise of couture, 137

democratization of fashion, 137, 148–49

disco, 147–48

feminism and, 125, 138

homosexuality and, 126

John Travolta and, 138–47

London punk scene, 126

Manolo Blahnik and, 151–53

Mary Quant and, 137

MGM auction, 121–24

music and fashion, 135–38

New Journalism, 139

platform shoes, 127–34, 131n, 140–41, 144–47, 145n, 148, 152–53

popular fashions, 127, 136, 148

power dressing, 153–56

power pump, 151–56

The Rocky Horror Picture Show, 132–33, 137, 138

sex and pornography, 124–27, 132

shoe styles, 127–31, 136–37, 148–49

Studio 54, 135–36, 138

1980s, 156–89

athletic shoes and, 159–75

boots, 175

business women and, 159, 174

couture returns, 174

cultural emphasis on money, 159, 174

fitness craze, 159–75

grunge, Chuck Taylors, and Doc Martens, 180–90

Jane Fonda and Workout, 161–68

Lycra and fashion trends, 174

NYC transit strike and shoes, 158–60

retro dress, 187

Vans and individualism, 177–80

1990s, 181, 189–202

female outcasts and Doc Martens, 194

feminism and, 198

Girl power, 196, 199, 202

Mary Janes and Kinderwhore style, 195–99, 202

money, celebrity, and gender, 201–2

O. J. Simpson trial, 201–2

popular fashions, 241–42

women in rock music, 191–97

young girls, dress style of, 199–201

Nine West, 149, 233

Nirvana, 182, 190, 195

No Doubt, 191–93, 194

N. W. Ayer & Sons, 99

O’Brien, Richard, 132–33

Olsen, Mary-Kate and Ashley, 225, 227, 228

O’Neil, Denny, 114–15

O’Shea, Melissa, 231–32

oxfords and brogues, xi, 4, 4n, 48

Palin, Sarah, 91n

Pallenberg, Anita, 132

Parker, Sarah Jessica, 204, 206–7, 207n, 208

Patti Smith Group, 181

Penfield, Wilder, 45n

Penn, Sean, 177–78

Peralta, Stacy, 179

Perrault, Charles, 34–35, 34n

Peter, H. G., 48

Petty, George, 42–43, 61, 65

“Physical” (song), 159

Piaggi, Anna, 204

Pilgrim Pump, 97

Pillow Talk (film), 81–82

Plant, Robert, 131

platform shoes, xi, xiv, 1, 21, 121, 127–34, 131n, 145n, 148, 152–72, 261n

Alexander McQueen and, 237

Carmen Miranda and, 22

Christian Louboutin and, 227, 230

Ferragamo and, 20–22

Rocky Horror Picture Show, 132–33

Saturday Night Fever, 140–41, 144–47

Tommy and the Who, 133

Pogrebin, Letty, 125

Postman Always Rings Twice, The (film), 59–61, 60n

poulaine, 128–29, 129n

power pump, 55, 55, 56–57, 60, 60n

Puma, 157, 182

Quant, Mary, 96, 110–11, 118, 137, 184

“Wet” collection, 97

Rabanne, Paco, 116

Ramachandran, V. S., 45n

Ramones, 136, 138, 181

Randall, Loeffler, ix, 229

“Red Shoes, The” (Andersen), 35–36

Reeboks, 157–58, 160, 170n, 179, 241

Freestyles, 167–68, 169, 170, 171–72, 174

Pro Fitness Walkers, 172

Reynolds, Burt, 126–27

Reynolds, Debbie, 122

R. Griggs company, 133, 184, 188

Richards, Keith, 132

Ride, Sally, 118

Riot Grrrl movement, 196

Rivera, Doreen, 165, 166

Rockwell, Norman, 53

Rocky Horror Picture Show, The (film), 132–33, 137, 138

Rooney, Mickey, 25, 31

Rosenman, Hilary, 227

Ross, Diana, 138

Rossi, Sergio, 223

Rovetto, Mary, 258n81

ruby slippers. See Wizard of Oz

Running with Heels (ezine), 232

Russell, Jane, 44, 81

Sabrina (film), 90

saddle shoes, 86

Saint Laurent, Yves, 90–91, 94–95, 97, 111, 127, 225

Saks Fifth Avenue, 19, 112

sandals, xi, xiv, 4n, 11, 20, 21, 48, 51, 52, 60, 65, 76, 81, 102, 113, 152, 205, 208, 225, 227, 229, 234, 235, 237. See also CMF shoes; high heels

Sassoon, Vidal, 216

Saturday Night Fever (film), 127, 134, 138–47

Scorsese, Martin, 145

Sea of Shoes, 232

Second Sex, The (de Beauvoir), 125

Sekowsky, Mike, 114–15

Semmelhack, Elizabeth, 34, 34n, 198–99, 214, 236, 239–40, 251n14, 254n44

Seven Year Itch, The (film), 73–76, 78–80

Sex and the City (film), 215–16, 216n

Sex and the City (TV series), xiii, 205–10, 207n, 213–15, 227, 228

“A Woman’s Right to Shoes,” 208–9

Sex Pistols, 126, 138

Seychelles, 232

Shepherd, Cybill, 171

Shields, Brooke, 135

shoe clips, 13

Shoe Goddess, (ezine), 232

shoe history. See also shoes and social status; specific decades

ancient Greece, x, 21

average number of shoes per woman, xii

Chinese foot binding and, 69–70

chopines (pianelle), 67, 69, 70

consumer culture and, 6

diversity of shoes, x, xi

DuPont and low-cost artificial materials, xii, 97, 98

factory-made, xi–xii, 5–6, 7, 8

first decade of twentieth century, 4

French court of Louis XIV, x, 35–36, 129, 133–34

function vs. fashion, 170, 174

heel heights, xiv

high heels, 130

left-right foot patterns, xi

nineteenth century custom shoemakers, xi

pop culture and, xiii–xiv

poulaine, 128–29, 129n

red soles, 229

shoe sales and recession, xiii, 249n

shoe last, 2, 2n

shoe materials, x–xi, xii

fiberglass, 133

leather substitutes, x, 97–98

natural, xi, 127

plastics, x, 97, 98

rubber soles, 98–99

today, 237

shoes and social status, x, xii, 95

Chinese foot binding and, 69–70

chopines (pianelle), 69

Christian Louboutin’s red sole, x, 227–30

cost of shoes and, x, 205, 207–8, 209, 216, 216n, 226, 227, 229, 230

democratization of footwear, 103

designer shoes, contemporary, 207–8, 225, 227–30

Jimmy Choos, xii, 216–19, 223

Louis XIV of France and, x, 35–36, 129, 133–34

Manolo Blahnik and, 152–53, 204, 205, 208, 209, 211–13, 215–16, 216n, 223, 225, 227

NYC transit strike and, 158–60

1950s, 82–83

originals vs. knock-offs, 231–32

postwar style and, 68–69

poulaine, 128–29, 129n

Sioux, x, 229

stilettos and, 68

Shrimpton, Jean, 96

Siewart, Michael, 223

Simon, Carly, 147

Sinatra, Frank, 106–7

Sinatra, Nancy, 105–12, 109n, 111n, 117

slingbacks, 48, 52, 73, 76, 126

slippers, 4, 49, 69

Cinderella’s glass, 33–34, 34n, 35

Dorothy’s ruby slippers, 23, 27–30, 31–33, 35, 36–37, 122–24

Slumdog Millionaire (film), 226–27

Smart, David, 43

Smithsonian Museum, 222

sneakers, xi, 93, 98–100, 156–58. See also specific brands

Snow White (film), 25, 29

Snyder, Ruth, 14–16, 56n

“So Long Babe” (song), 109, 110

Spears, Britney, 202

Specials, 187

Spice Girls, 202

“Spiderwebs” (song), 194

Spungen, Nancy, 136

“Stand by Your Man” (song), 111–12

Stanwyck, Barbara, 56

Star, Darren, 204

“Stayin’ Alive” (song), 143, 144

Stefani, Eric, 192, 193

Stefani, Gwen, 191–95

Steinem, Gloria, 101, 115, 125

Stephenson, W. W., 51

Stigwood, Robert, 138, 140

stilettos, 67–71, 85, 91n, 117, 145n, 156, 228. See also Blahnik, Manolo; Vivier, Roger

walking in, 67–68, 68n, 145n

Strummer, Pete, 189

Studio 54, 135–36, 138, 147, 148, 204

Summer, Donna, 138

Surface to Air, 232

Tate, Sharon, 124

Taylor, Charles “Chuck,” 99

Taylor, Elizabeth, 121, 148

Taylor, James, 147

Temple, Shirley, 24, 26, 31

tennis shoes. See sneakers

“These Boots Are Made for Walkin’ ” (song), 107–12, 109n

They Won’t Forget (film), 41, 58

Thorpe, Richard, 28, 29, 30

toe box, 4n

Tommy (rock opera), 133, 138

TOMS, 237

Topshop, 232

Townshend, Pete, 189

Tragic Kingdom (album), 191–94

trapeze dress, 90–91

Travolta, John, 127, 134, 135, 138–47

T-Rex, 130

T-strap, 14, 48

Turner, Lana, 40–42, 44, 52–53, 58–61

Turner, Tina, 133

20th Century-Fox, 24, 63

Twiggy, 96, 97

2000–present

camaraderie of women, 209–10, 240

celebrity culture, 225–30

Christian Louboutin and, 227–30

democratization of fashion, 225, 232, 233–37

E! network “shoe cam,” 219

haute couture, 205, 225

high heels, 211–19, 221

Internet, bloggers, and shoes, 232–33, 235

Jimmy Choos, 216–19

Manolo Blahnik and, 203, 204–5, 209, 211–13, 215–16

popular fashions, 224–25, 235–36

Sex and the City and, 205–10, 213–15

shoe consciousness, 221

shoe fashion revivals, 243

shoe obsession, 209, 241

shoes as metaphor, 208, 214–15

television as trendsetting, 216

urban single woman, 205–19, 210n

women and marriage, 212, 215

women’s success, appearance, and number of shoes, 213

Two Tone, 187, 194

Tyrell, Trace, 171

U.S. Rubber Company, 99, 100

Vadim, Roger, 116, 118

valkyrie, 116

vamp, 4, 4n

Van Doren, Paul, 99, 178, 180

Van Doren, Steve, 178–80

Vans, 99, 177–80, 182

Varga Girl, 43–46, 53, 61

Vargas, Alberto, 42–46, 65

Varvatos, John, 130–31, 181–82

Vena Cava and Viva Vena, 232

Vicious, Sid, 136

Vietnam War, 113, 124, 164

Vintage Shoes (Cox), 14n

Vivier, Roger, 64–65, 70, 76, 97, 223, 228

Vogue, 71, 95, 151, 201, 204, 232

von Brandenstein, Patrizia, 140, 142, 143, 145n

Vreeland, Diana, 95, 151–52

Warhol, Andy, 135, 148

Warner, Kent, 122, 123–24, 222

wedges/wedgies, xi, xiv, 3, 21–22, 31, 48, 64, 67, 236. See also platform shoes

Weisz, David, 122–23

Weitzman, Stuart, 223

Welcome Back, Kotter (TV series), 142

Westwood, Vivienne, 126

Who, 133

Wife Dressing (Fogarty), 82

Wilder, Billy, 56, 75, 80

Wilkerson, W. R., 41

winklepickers, 103

Winters, Shelley, 60

Wintour, Anna, 204

Wizard of Oz (film), 26–33, 39

anniversary and updated ruby slipper designs, 223–24

Christie’s auction of ruby slippers, 221–24

Judy Garland as Dorothy, 26, 27–29, 253n28

MGM auction and, 11n, 122–23

MGM auction of ruby slippers, 122n, 221

ruby slippers, 23, 27–30, 31–33, 35, 36–37, 122–24

Woman’s Dress for Success Book, The (Molloy), 154

women’s suffrage, xiii, 11–12

Wonderful World of Oz, The (Baum), 26, 27

Wonder Woman, 46–49, 53, 55, 112–15

boots of, 39, 48–49, 113

feminism and, 47, 115, 115n, 125

workingwomen, 258n81

Manolo Blahnik and, 211–13

professional women and shoes, 153–56

urban single woman, 205–19, 210n

women’s success, appearance, and number of shoes, 213

World War II and, 52–53, 63

Workout (video), 165

World War I, 5, 12

World War II, 31, 39–40, 43, 59, 113

dogfaces, 45, 45n

Ferragamo and, 19–22

Rosie the Riveter, 53

shoe rationing, 49–50, 51–52, 56, 59, 255n49

Varga Girl and pin-ups, 43–44, 61

women and, 40, 52–53, 57, 62–63

Wynette, Tammy, 112

Yeardye, Tom, 216, 217

Young, Adrian, 192

“You Should Be Dancing” (song), 146

Zara, 232