Meats

Daube Provençale

5-pound piece of beef rump or shin

3 or 4 pieces of salt pork

2 pigs’ feet or 1 calf’s foot

2 bay leaves

8 garlic cloves

1 clove

1 strip orange peel

1 teaspoon dried rosemary

Several sprigs parsley

1 tablespoon salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1 bottle of dry red wine

1 pound macaroni

Place the beef and other meats in a deep casserole or crock with the seasonings, and pour in red wine to cover. Let marinate for 24 hours. Place in a heavy enamel braising pan or casserole and cook at no more than 200° for 6 hours or until thoroughly tender. Remove from the heat for 20 minutes or so. Then skim the fat from the sauce. Strain the sauce. Cook the macaroni in boiling salted water and drain. Serve part of the sauce with the macaroni and part with the sliced meat. This is called Macaronade.

To serve cold, let the strained sauce cool. Remove the fat. Arrange slices of the beef in a serving dish and cover with the sauce. Chill. Serves 6 to 8.

Gigot, Prieuré Style

1 small leg of lamb, about 4½ to 5 pounds

6 to 8 potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced

Butter

1 small onion, thinly sliced

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 cup beef broth

3 cloves of garlic, slivered

1 teaspoon rosemary

Parmesan cheese (optional)

Put the potato slices in cold water, drain, and dry thoroughly. Butter a baking dish large enough to hold the lamb. Arrange layers of potato slices in it, adding the onion after the first two layers, and dotting each layer with butter. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add the broth. Trim most of the fat off the lamb, make gashes in the meat, and insert the garlic slivers. Rub with the rosemary, salt, and pepper. Place the leg on a rack directly above the potatoes. Roast at 350° for about 1 to 1½ hours. The potatoes should be brown and crusty. If they are done first, remove from the oven while the lamb continues to cook (over another baking pan), sprinkle with the cheese, and return to the oven for 10 minutes to reheat. Allow the lamb to stand for 10 to 15 minutes before carving. Serves 4.

Grilled Lamb Steaks

4 lamb steaks ¾ inch to 1 inch thick

½ cup soy sauce

½ cup red wine

¼ cup grated fresh or chopped preserved ginger

2 or 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

Mix the ingredients for the marinade, pour it over the steaks in a shallow dish or pan, and let them marinate for several hours. Drain and grill over coals or put under the broiler, brushing two or three times with the marinade, until nicely browned on both sides. Serves 6 to 8.

Near Eastern Meatballs

1½ pounds ground lamb

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 egg, lightly beaten

½ cup pine nuts

½ cup chopped parsley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Olive oil

Mix the meat with the garlic, egg, pine nuts, parsley, and salt (about 1½ teaspoons) and pepper. Form into small balls. Heat about 2 to 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet and sauté the meatballs for a few minutes, shaking the pan to brown them uniformly. When done they should be slightly pink in the middle. Serves 3 to 4.

Marinated Loin of Pork

1 boned loin of pork, about 4 pounds

½ cup soy sauce

1 cup dry vermouth

2 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger or 2 teaspoons powdered ginger

3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fresh tarragon or 1 teaspoon dried*

Mix the ingredients for the marinade, and marinate the pork for several hours, turning frequently. Drain and pat dry with paper towels. Balance on a spit and roast 20–25 minutes per pound or until it reaches an internal temperature of 165° when tested with a thermometer. During the second half of the cooking, baste the pork several times with the marinade. This can also be oven roasted at 350°.

Carve in thickish slices and serve with the strained marinade. Serves 6.

* JB used “Old Man” (Southernwood) in his recipe, not easily obtainable. Tarragon belongs to the same family, Artemisia, and is suggested as a substitute.

Hawaiian Spareribs

4 pounds spareribs

½ cup soy sauce

½ cup dry or medium sherry

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger or chopped preserved ginger

⅓ cup olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 teaspoons sugar (optional)

Combine all the ingredients for the marinade, except the sugar, and let the ribs soak in it for several hours. Cut the ribs into serving sections. Either spit them or broil them. If using a spit, roast for 20 minutes and then brush with the marinade. Continue to brush from time to time until the ribs are done. If broiling, cook on one side, brush with the marinade, and turn. Do this several times until the ribs are nicely browned. To glaze, sprinkle with the sugar during the last few minutes of cooking. Serves 4.

Jambon à la Crème

6 to 8 slices cooked smoked ham

4 tablespoons butter

6 shallots, finely chopped

4 tablespoons flour

¾ cup milk, heated

¾ cup light cream, heated

2 tablespoons concentrated tomato purée

¼ cup dry white wine

Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat, and cook the shallots until softened but not browned. Stir in the flour to make a roux. Gradually stir in the milk and the cream. Continue cooking and stirring until thickened. Blend in the tomato purée and the wine. Transfer to the top of a double boiler, and simmer over hot water for 25–30 minutes. The sauce should be as thick as heavy cream.

Heat the ham slices, either sautéing lightly or placing in a moderate oven for a few minutes. Cut into strips and arrange in a serving dish. Cover with the sauce and glaze under the broiler. Serves 4.