This table is intended to supplement the historical information in chapters 9 and 10. I am indebted to Harish Kapadia for his assistance, particularly for the painstaking work he has done in researching the records of recent expeditions to the area. As in all historical lists there will inevitably be unintentional omissions, but this does cover all the main events of which we are aware. In describing ‘East Karakoram’, I have defined the western limit of the area with a line running approximately north-east to southwest through Sia Kangri and the head of the Siachen Glacier. Several of the expeditions listed were primarily concerned with the Baltoro region further west, but are included in this list because they touched close to the eastern and northern limits of the Siachen (e.g. Conway’s and Dyrenfurth’s expeditions). Entries in italics refer to significant political events that have affected the area.
Most of the expeditions mentioned are referred to in the Geographical Journal (GJ), Himalayan Journal (HJ), Himalayan Club Newsletter (HCNL), American Alpine Journal (AAJ) or Iwa-to-Yuki (ITY) and the volume numbers of the relevant journals are mentioned. (Some of the expeditions have obviously been reported in more than one of these journals and have also been covered in the Alpine Journal. Further research into other foreign journals would unearth more details and photographs, but as a starting point the Himalayan Journal is the most useful single reference source for expeditions since 1929.)
The early explorations are headed under the names of individual explorers. This reduction of expeditions to individual leaders’ names is done in the interests of simplicity and space-saving, and is not intended in any way to detract from the vital part played by their companions and by the Balti and Ladakhi porters who made their expeditions possible.
SV
| 1821 | WILLIAM MOORCROFT crosses from Leh to Panamik in Nubra valley. |
| 1837 | GODFREY VIGNE visits Nubra valley from Leh. Too late in year to cross Saser La to Karakoram Pass. |
| 1838 | After wintering in Skardu, VIGNE makes second approach to Nubra. Sikh occupiers in Leh, suspicious of British intruders, refuse him permission to return to Leh, hence his attempt to reach Nubra from Baltistan by the Saltoro Pass (Bilafond La). Attempt thwarted by storm and snow-covered crevasses. |
| 1846 | Sikh Wars concluded by TREATY OF AMRITSAR. British government creates semi-autonomous state of ‘]ammu, Kashmir and Ladak’. Effective sphere of British influence pushed north to Ladakh. |
| 1847 | LADAKH BORDER COMMISSION - Alexander Cunningham, Henry Strachey and Dr Thomas Thomson. During their recent occupation of Ladakh, the Sikhs had also invaded Tibet, where their army was routed. Now the British made their first attempt to delineate the eastern border of Ladakh. |
| 1848 | THOMSON reaches Karakoram Pass. STRACHEY reaches head of Nubra valley and travels two miles up Siachen Glacier. GJ 23 |
| 1861 | GODWIN AUSTEN survey of Baltoro Glacier. |
| 1862 | E.C. RYALL produces Survey of lndia map with inaccurate representation of Siachen Glacier. |
| 1889 | FRANCIS YOUNGHUSBAND crosses Karakoram Pass to Yarkand and Shaksgam valleys. Nearly reaches Indira Col from north (Urdok Glacier). |
| 1892 | MARTIN CONWAY’s Karakoram expedition follows Hispar and Biafo Glaciers to Baltoro. First ascent of Silver Throne and attempt on Baltoro Kangri. |
| 1892 | Survey of lndia map again gives inaccurate representation of Siachen Glacier. |
| 1897 | ARTHUR NEVE, a medical missionary, visits Nubra valley, Mamastong Glacier and climbs small peak near Saser La. |
| 1908 | NEVE thwarted by Nubra floods from reaching Siachen Glacier. GJ 38 |
| 1909 | THOMAS LONGSTAFF crosses Saltoro Pass and discovers true extent of Siachen Glacier. Also visits snout of Rimo Glacier and returns to travel up Siachen from Nubra valley. GJ 35 DUKE OF ABRUZZI’s Karakoram expedition. First full-scale attempt on K2. The first in a long line of ambitious Italian Karakoram expeditions which provided much of the data for the British Survey of lndia maps. |
| 1911–12 | BULLOCK WORKMAN East Karakoram. The last of the great Karakoram explorations by the William. In 1912 they cross the Saltoro Pass (now named Bilafond La) and descend the Lolofond Glacier (name taken from Balti porters who called Longstaff ‘Lolaff’) to the Siachen. Extensive survey of upper Siachen aided by British surveyor, Grant Peterkin, and ascents of minor peaks. Younghusband’s pass named Indira Col and a nearby pass Turkestan La. Unsuccessful attempts to reach head of Teram Shehr Glacier and to cross from the Siachen to the Baltoro. Party eventually exited by the Sia La and Kondus Glacier. The BWs discovered evidence of earlier local visitors to the Siachen. For analysis of their possible origin and likelihood of an ancient trade route over Siachen see the discussion between BWs and Longstaff at the RGS, quoted in GJ 43(pp.138–139 and 149–150.) GJ 43 |
| 1914 | FILIPPO DE FILIPPI (previously a member of the Abruzzi 1909 expedition) makes first survey of the second largest glacier in the East Karakoram, the Rimo Glacier. Survey of Rimo peaks from north-east. Intended survey of Shaksgam valley halted by First World War. |
| 1922 | Dr P.H.C. VISSER explores southern approaches to Saser Kangri. |
| 1926 | KENNETH MASON surveys Shaksgam valley, via Karakoram Pass. Hindered by advanced Kyagar Glacier. GJ69 |
| 1929 | DUKE OF SPOLETO’s Karakoram expedition approaches Shaksgam valley from Mustagh Pass. Explores Urdok, Singhi, Staghar and Kyagar Glaciers, linking up with Younghusband’s work of 1889 and Mason’s 1926 survey. HJ 3 |
| 1929–1930 | VISSER’s second East Karakoram expedition. Explores La Yoghma Glacier on south side of Nubra valley. Visits Terong basin. Partial survey of North Terong and Shelkar Chorten Glaciers. Followed by exploration of glaciers round upper Shyok valley and crossing of Karakoram Pass, to winter in Yarkand. GJ 84 |
| 1930 | Prof. GIOTTO DAINELLI explores Teram |
| Shehr Glacier. Swift efficient approach up Nubra (before flooding) to Siachen and its junction with Teram Shehr. Continues up heavily crevassed Teram Shehr (which had defeated Bullock Workmans in 1912) to cross the ‘Col Italia’ to the Rimo Glacier. Returns via Saser La and Khardung La to Leh. HJ 4 | |
| 1934 | G.O. DYRENFURTH’s international Karakoram expedition. First ascent of west, central, east and main summits of Queen Mary from Baltoro side. (‘Queen Mary Peak’ was the name given by the Bullock Workmans to the mountain now known as Sia Kangri.) HJ7 |
| 1935 | VISSER’s third East Karakoram expedition. Completes work of Younghusband (1889), Mason (1926) and Spoleto (1929) on glaciers descending north from East Karakoram watershed into Shaksgam valley. HJ7 |
| British army expedition led by JAMES WALLER attempts Saltoro Kangri, approaching from south. Team includes a young officer, John Hunt (later of Everest fame), who spearheads a bold near-successful attempt on this massive peak, in the face of appalling weather. HJ 8 | |
| 1937 | ERIC SHIPTON’s Blank on the Map expedition explores area north of K2, linking up with Younghusband/Mason/Visser explorations in Shaksgam valley. |
| 1946 | Lt PETER YOUNG visits Gyong La. |
| J. ROBERTS reconnoitres southern approaches to Saser Kangri and climbs Lookout Peak. HJ 14 | |
| 1947 | INDIAN INDEPENDENCE AND PARTITION. Proposed independent state of Jammu and Kashmir elects to join India, prompting Pakistan to invade from west, with the ready support of Muslim tribesmen |
| R.C. SCHOMBERG fails to attain Siachen snout due to July/August flooding of Nubra. Explores valley above Rongdu, south-east of Saser Kangri. HJ 15 | |
| 1948 | Kashmir ceasefire line left the state divided, with Pakistan securing a narrow strip down the south-west border and the whole north-west corner, i.e. a large part of the upper Indus valley and the greater part of the Karakoram. The ceasefire line was left undefined at the point where it reached the Karakoram. |
For foreign mountaineers access to the Karakoram was now strictly controlled, particularly at the eastern end of the range. Pakistan allowed a few expeditions into the range, including a very few which were allowed on to the upper Siachen from Baltistan; but India kept the eastern approaches, via Leh and the Nubra valley, strictly closed to foreigners.
In the entries below an asterisk indicates an expedition approaching the East
Karakoram from Pakistan.
| 1956 | M.S. Kohli leads first Indian expedition to East Karakoram. Reconnoitres southern approaches to Saser Kangri and climbs Sakang Peak. HJ 25 |
| *Austrian expedition climbs Sia Kangri West. HJ 20 CHINA OCCUPIES AKSAI CHIN – the large north-eastern corner of Ladakh. India now threatened by Chinese troops along her northern frontier from Ladakh in the west to Assam in the east. | |
| 1957 | *British Imperial College expedition, led by Eric Shipton, crosses Bilafond La and explores Siachen, Teram Shehr and K12 glaciers, climbing small peaks, including Tawiz. HJ 21 |
| 1960 | *British expedition explores south-west approaches to K12. HJ 23 |
| 1961 | *Austrian expedition makes 1st ascent of Ghent via Kondus Glacier and Sia La. (Ghent was the name given by the Bullock Workmans to commemorate the Treaty of the Ghent, (which terminated hostilities between Britain and America in 1814.) HJ 23 |
| 1962 | INDO-CHINESE WAR. The main point of contention was the border in the eastern Himalaya, but there was also fighting in the Aksai Chin. India subsequently began a massive military build-up in Ladakh. *Japanese-Pakistani expedition makes first ascent of Saltoro Kangri I. HJ 25 |
| 1965 | INDO-PAKISTANI WAR. Kashmir ceasefire line remains undefined where it reaches Karakoram. |
| 1962–1974 | Karakoram closed to all foreigners, save a few expeditions to the West Karakoram. Pakistan preoccupied with a period of turbulent politics, two wars with India and strengthening ties with China, symbolised by the construction of the Karakoram Highway and the ceding to China of the Shaksgam valley, north of the range. |
| 1970 | Indian expedition reconnoitres Saser Kangri from south-west and climbs four outlying 6,000-metre peaks. HJ 30 |
| 1971 | INDO-PAKISTANI WAR. India gains strategic hill posts on main supply road to Ladakh. Kashmir ceasefire line remains undefined where it reaches Karakoram. |
| 1973 | ITBF expedition makes first ascent of Saser Kangri I from the east (North Shukpa Kunchang Glacier) Formidable problems with summer flooding of rivers. |
| 1974 | *Austrian expedition climbs Sia Kangri. HCNL32, AAJ 49 *Japanese expedition attempts Sherpi Kangri II. HCNL 31 *Japanese expedition makes probable first ascent of K12, but two summiteers disappear on descent. HCNL 31 |
| 1975 | *British expedition attempts Sherpi Kangri. |
| *Japanese expedition repeats ascent of K12. No trace found of previous year’s missing climbers, but ascent of K12 now undisputed. HCNL 31 | |
| *Japanese expedition makes first ascents of Teram Kangri I and Teram Kangri II. HCNL 31, ITY 48 | |
| *Japanese expedition attempts Saltoro Kangri I. HCNL 31 | |
| 1976 | *Japanese expedition makes first ascent of Sherpi Kangri I. HJ 35 |
| 1977 | *Japanese expedition makes first ascent of central summit of Gharkun, near Gyong La. ITY 64 |
| *Japanese expedition makes first ascent of Apsaras I. HCNL 32 | |
| *Japanese expedition crosses Bilafond La and Turkestan La to make first ascent of Sing hi Kangri from north. HCNL 32 | |
| *Austrian expedition attempts Saltoro Kangri II. HCNL 32 | |
| *Austrian expedition makes first ascent of Ghent north-east from Kondus Glacier. | |
| *Japanese expedition climbs Ghent northeast. HCNL 33 | |
| *Japanese expedition crosses Gyong La and Siachen to entrance of Terong valley. Attempt to continue up Terong valley to glacier and Rimo peaks stopped by problems with flooded river. NB excellent panorama photos of East Karakoram in this issue of ITY. ITY 64 | |
| *Japanese expedition attempts Chumik (S. of K12). ITY 67 Indian army expedition led by Col N. Kumar climbs Teram Kangri II. The first Indian expedition to venture on to the upper Siachen from Nubra. HJ 37 | |
| 1979 | *Japanese expedition made first ascent of Teram Kangri III. HCNL 33 |
| *Japanese expedition climbs Sia Kangri and makes first crossing from Baltoro to Siachen Glacier, with 116 porters. This was the crossing which defeated the Bullock Workmans in 1912.) HCNL 33 Indian expedition makes second ascent of Saser Kangri I. | |
| 1980 | *American team, led by Galen Rowell, make first complete ski traverse of Karakoram, linking Siachen, Baltoro, Biafo and Hispar Glaciers. The four men carry their own provisions from Kaphalu, only stopping once, at Askole, to re-provision during their six-week journey. An outstanding achievement, verging on the masochistic, summed up by one member: ‘The trip was hardly enjoyable - it was an accomplishment’! The crux of the route is the Siachen-Baltoro crossing, via S. face of Sia Kangri and Conway’s Saddle, where the Japanese employed 116 porters the previous summer. Only one thing mars the elegance of their achievement - politics prevents them from starting at the very eastern Indian-controlled end of the Siachen so they have to cut into the upper glacier from the Pakistani-controlled Bilafond La. AAJ 23/55 |
| *Two-man Japanese team plans reconnaissance of Rimo peaks via Bilafond La and Siachen, but one man dies in crevasse accident near Bilafond La. ITY 81 | |
| *German expedition climbs Ghent. HCNL 34 Indian army expedition makes second ascent of Apsaras I. A massive exercise in logistics, approaching the Siachen from the Nubra valley: ‘68 members assisted by 20 porters ferried over 25 tonnes of equipment and rations across 12 camps’ | |
| 1981 | *Dutch expedition attempts Saltoro Kangri II. HCNL 36 |
| Col N. Kumar’s second Indian army expedition to upper Siachen Glacier. Ascents of lndira Col, Turkestan La, and Sia Kangri. First of Saltoro Kangri II. HJ 39 | |
| 1983 | *American, French, German, Japanese and Korean parties allowed to trek from Pakistan over Bilafond La to Siachen and Sia La. |
| 1984 | OUTBREAK OF HOSTILITIES BETWEEN INDIA AND PAKISTAN ON SIACHEN GLACIER. Indian army takes control of entire glacier. Indian army expedition makes second ascent of K12 approaching from Siachen Glacier. Something of a propaganda exercise, this is claimed as the ‘first ascent of K12 were invalid, having originated in Pakistan. |
| Indian army makes first ascent of Rimo IV, from South Rimo Glacier. | |
| Inda-Japanese expedition makes first ascent of Mamastong Kangri I. The first joint Foreign-Indian expedition allowed into the East Karakoram. HJ 41 | |
| 1985 | Indian army retains control of entire Siachen. Indian Mountaineering Foundation publicises new regulations allowing up to three Foreign-Indian expeditions per year to visit Siachen area. |
| Indo-British expedition visits Terong basin exploring several passes and climbing several peaks, including the first ascent of Rima III. Indo-Japanese expedition makes the first ascent of Saser Kangri II by NW Ridge, approaching from Nubra valley and Sakang Lungpa Glacier. Four Indian members reach a west summit, described as exactly the same height (7,518 metres) as the distant east summit. HJ 42. |