Southwest Harbor is situated in the region that’s come to be called “Downeast” Maine. As the editors of DownEast magazine explain, the term used to refer to the entire state of Maine—a place that sailing ships leaving Boston reached by sailing downwind to the east (residents were called Downeasters). In more recent times, however, the term has come to reference the coast east of Ellsworth, a rugged and relatively remote section of the Pine Tree State.
“I first heard about Southwest Harbor from a cruising friend who’d just returned from Downeast Maine,” Jennifer French recalled. “He said, ‘This is where you need to be.’ I hadn’t gotten the racing bug yet, and was doing a lot of cruising at that time. When my next vacation came, I headed up there. It was challenging sailing at times—you really have to know your navigation tools, because when the fog comes in, your visibility goes down to zero. But the region’s beauty and unique personality made the challenges worthwhile.”
Like so much of the Maine coast, the Downeast region is carved with countless coves, bays, harbors, and estuaries; while there are less than 250 road miles along Route 1 from Kittery to Eastport, the coastline is over 3,000 miles were you to traverse every inch by water—not to mention myriad small islands. With so many places to tuck into, it’s no wonder that Maine is a cruiser’s haven. There’s a great deal to see; but one must also be prepared to see a great deal of the same thing. “If a fog bank rolls in, you might find yourself in a harbor for a few days,” Jen explained. “If that happens, you’ll learn the intricacies of the harbor and the town. If you’re sailing in the vicinity of Southwest Harbor, you’ll do well not to schedule yourself too tightly. You need to leave a block of time to sit and wait if the fog comes in. If I’m going up there, I like to give myself two weeks to account for the possibility of uncertain weather. Another thing you need to be conscious of when you’re sailing in Downeast Maine are the tides, which can be as much as seventeen feet. The tides and weather, sunrise and sunset dictate your schedule more than what your watch says.”
Most cruisers departing from Southwest Harbor will wend their way slowly east, perhaps beginning with a brief detour to Bass Harbor on the south end of Mt. Desert Island. Bass Harbor is the archetypal lobster fishing village, with white lobster boats and multihued buoys bobbing against a background of spruce and clapboard houses. Many don’t realize that Friendship Sloops got their start in the late 1800s as the craft of choice for lobstermen (they were sometimes called lobster sloops). It wasn’t until after World War II that engine-powered lobster boats began to replace sail- and oar-powered craft. “If we stop in Bass Harbor,” Jen said, “we almost always stop at Thurston’s Lobster Pound. It’s pretty barebones, with little plastic forks, and steamed lobsters served whole, with a little cup of butter to dip the meat in. If you like lobster, it’s your kind of place, and they serve good beer to wash it all down.”
Heading back east toward Acadia, Somes Sound is worth a stop; it’s the only fjord on the eastern seaboard. “It’s like you’re in Norway or Finland—you go up this river with steep cliffs that opens up to this sound,” Jen added. “There is lots of birdlife, including bald eagles. If you like to hike or bike, a stop-off at Acadia is a must.” Acadia is the first national park that was established east of the Mississippi, its 47,000 acres set aside in 1919 by President Woodrow Wilson when the park was called Lafayette (the name changed in 1929). Hiking to the top of Cadillac Mountain (at 1,532 feet, the tallest point along the eastern seaboard) to take in the sunrise is a treasured experience for visitors; from this vista point in the far-eastern reaches of the U.S., you’ll be among the first of your countrymen to greet the day!
After a day or two in Acadia, some cruisers will spend an afternoon or evening in Bar Harbor. While it has largely evolved into a tourist destination, Bar Harbor has a rich past. At one time, it rivaled Newport as a summering place for society people; indeed, many of the families who maintained homes in Newport kept “cottages” on Mt. Desert Island as well. Various Vanderbilts and other luminaries of the gilded age were drawn to Bar Harbor by the paintings of a group of artists from the Hudson River School, sometimes called “the rusticators”—including Frederic Church, Thomas Cole, and William Hart—who captured the region’s beauty in their work. “There aren’t many towns once you push east from Bar Harbor,” Jen said. “We like to stop in for an evening of civilized fun—including a stop at the Thirsty Whale, a favorite pub—before continuing on.”
One may very well find little use for towns when hideaways like Roque Island await. “Roque Island is one of my favorite places,” Jen continued. “Most cruisers to the region know it. It’s a little horseshoe-shaped island [actually a series of islands], with a number of little coves you can tuck into. One remarkable feature is the long, white sandy beach on the main island. You don’t see many white beaches in Maine—in fact, I can’t think of any I’ve encountered. It’s reminiscent of the Caribbean, except with pine trees and cold water.”
Whether at the beginning of your trip or at its conclusion, you should consider a stop at one or two of Southwest Harbor’s eminent yacht builders; one nautical writer has called the town the home of the world’s best boat builders. Residents include Morris Yachts, Ralph Stanley Boat Builders, John M. Williams Boat Yard, Ellis Boat Builders, Malcolm L. Pettegrow, Inc., Lee S. Wilbur & Co., and Jarvis Newman Boats. Best known among Southwest Harbor’s boat builders is the Hinckley Company, which dates back to 1928, making it one of the country’s oldest yacht builders. Hinckley made a name for itself constructing high-quality production boats, including the Bermuda 40, the Sou’wester 30, and the Hinckley 41.
Downeasters have a reputation for being a little aloof and suspicious of outsiders; perhaps this attitude was fostered a century ago when wealthy city folk came in and bought up all the shorefront land and posted “No Trespassing” signs. But Jen has found that while Mainers may size you up, they’re more than willing to give you the benefit of the doubt. “If you’re willing to help Mainers out, they’re willing to help you,” she explained. “One day, we were trying to find a hurricane hole as a big front was coming through. We came into a little cove where there was a bunch of lobstermen around. There were no moorings for visitors, but we offered to do some work for them in exchange for use of one of their moorings. Things worked out fine.”
Jennifer French acquired her C6–7 incomplete spinal-cord injury as a result of a snow-boarding accident in 1998. Prior to her injury, she was recreationally active with such sports as canoeing, snowboarding/skiing, sailing, fly fishing, scuba diving/snorkeling, and biking. Since her injury, Jennifer still participates in all those activities. She is an active user of FES systems. In November 1999, she received the Implantable Standing and Transfer System provided by the Cleveland FES Center—the first woman to receive such a system. Now residing in St. Petersburg, Florida, Jennifer is actively involved with the community sailing program and is a member of the U.S. Disabled Sailing Team. Over the course of her career, Jennifer has helped launch successful divisions in such organizations as Bombardier Capital and PC Connection, Inc. With an M.B.A., she works with profit and nonprofit organizations and freelances her talents through TJF Consulting, Inc. As a user of neurotechnology who has reaped its benefits, she is the cofounder of a nonprofit organization, Neurotech Network. Most recently, Jennifer’s story was featured in the documentary film To Have Courage.
Getting There: Southwest Harbor is approximately 140 miles north of Portland, which is served by many major carriers, including Continental, Delta, and United Airlines. It’s about 50 miles from Bangor, which is served by American, Continental, and Delta.
Best Time to Visit: July and August are major tourist times and offer fairly consistent weather. September can be an excellent time to be on the water here, though fog is an ever-present possibility.
Charter Operators: Hinckley Yacht Charters (800-492-7245; www.hinckleycharters.com) has many boats available for Downeast cruising.
Moorings: Most towns along this section of “Downeast Maine” offer moorings of one sort or another. In Southwest Harbor, you might begin with the harbor master, Gene Thurston, at 207-244-7913.
On-Shore Accommodations: Southwest Harbor and nearby Bar Harbor offer many lodgings options. The Maine Office of Tourism (888-624-6345; www.visitmaine.com) has a comprehensive list.
Annapolis has an active regatta schedule for racers and an abundance of calm waters for cruisers.