The Burger

This is the iconic burger, the stuff that lunch and dinner dreams are made of. Like Ethel Merman singing, there’s nothing held back, nothing enigmatic. Its flavor is out front, as intemperate as a sailor on a three-day pass.

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MAKES 4 BURGERS

Gently shape the meat into 4 burgers about 3/4 inch thick and 4 inches across. Make a 1/4-inch dimple in the center of each burger with the tips of your middle three fingers. Sprinkle both sides with salt.

Place a skillet, preferably cast-iron, over high heat and let it get very hot, about 2 minutes. Add the oil and spread it evenly over the pan. Arrange the burgers so they aren’t touching and cook, uncovered, for 5 minutes, Turn and cook about 4 minutes more for medium -rare, or as desired.

Remove the burgers from the pan, place on the buns, and serve.

For charcoal-grilled burgers, make a medium-hot fire (see page 12). Cook the burgers for 5 minutes. Turn and cook 4 to 5 minutes more.

For gas-griddle burgers, preheat on high until the grill is very hot, about 500°F. Cook the burgers for 5 minutes with the lid closed. Turn and cook 4 to 5 minutes more, again with the lid closed.