It’s telling that cheeseburger is one word. It is not called a “burger with cheese,” or “cheese atop a burger,” but singularly and distinctly a cheeseburger. This suggests that in combination the two ingredients, meat and cheese, transcend the sum of their parts to such a degree that a new entity is born. It must be a burger with a slice of cheese melted on top. Cheese sauce poured over it or bits of cheese incorporated into the meat are not authentic. Choose a hard or semi-hard cheese that will complement the flavor of the meat and not be overwhelmed by it. Swiss, Cheddar, and Gruyère all melt well and have sufficient flavor.
MAKES 4 BURGERS
Gently shape the meat into 4 burgers about 3/4 inch thick and 4 inches across. Make a 1/4-inch dimple in the center of each burger with the tips of your middle three fingers. Sprinkle both sides with salt.
Place a skillet, preferably cast-iron, over high heat and let it get very hot, about 2 minutes. Add the oil and spread it evenly over the pan. Arrange the burgers so they aren’t touching and cook, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Turn and lay a slice of cheese over each burger. Do not cover. Cook about 4 minutes more for medium-rare, or as desired.
Serve on the hamburger buns.
For charcoal-grilled burgers, make a medium-hot fire (see page 12). Cook the burgers for 5 minutes. Turn, lay a slice of cheese on each burger, and cook 4 to 5 minutes more. The cheese may not melt entirely, but it will finish melting in the bun.
For gas- grilled burgers, preheat on high until the grill is very hot, about 500°F. Cook the burgers for 5 minutes with the lid closed. Turn, place a slice of cheese on each burger, and cook 4 to 5 minutes more, again with the lid closed.
