Lamb and Feta Burger with Cumin-Yogurt Dressing

A grand marriage of Mediterranean flavors. The feta becomes more subdued as it cooks and provides a subtle infusion of tanginess. Make this burger with lamb or beef, depending on your mood. I’ve tried a variation of these burgers with the spinach mixed into the meat, but I prefer this preparation with the spinach cooked separately. These are especially good served in pita bread, drizzled with the Cumin-Yogurt Dressing. Mastering this burger is a real feta accompli.

MAKES 4 BURGERS

• SPINACH
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 12 ounces stemmed spinach leaves (preferably baby spinach)
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
• 1 teaspoon salt
• Freshly ground pepper

• CUMIN-YOGURT DRESSING
• 1 cup plain yogurt
• 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon curry powder
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• ¹/₂ teaspoon salt

• BURGERS
• 1 pound ground lamb
• 4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled into pea-sized pieces
• ¹/₄ cup finely chopped onion
• 8 kalamata olives (scant ¹/₄ cup), pitted and finely chopped
• 3 tablespoons finely chopped garlic
• 2 tablespoons pine nuts
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 4 pita breads, at least 6 inches across

To make the spinach: Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, add the olive oil, and let it get hot, about 1 minute. Add the spinach and cook, stirring continuously, until it is wilted, about 3 minutes. (A pair of tongs works well for this.) Add the garlic, salt, and pepper to taste and cook 1 minute more, stirring continuously. Transfer to a platter and set aside.

To make the Cumin-Yogurt Dressing: Mix all the dressing ingredients together well in a small bowl. Taste and add more salt if needed. Keep refrigerated until ready to use.

To make the burgers: Place the ground lamb in a medium bowl. Add the remaining burger ingredients and gently mix together until just combined. Shape the mixture into 4 burgers about ³/₄ inch thick and 4 inches across. Make a ¹/₄-inch dimple in the center of each burger with the tips of your middle three fingers.

Place a skillet, preferably cast-iron, over high heat and let it get very hot, about 2 minutes. Add the oil and spread it evenly over the pan. Arrange the burgers so they aren’t touching and cook, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Turn and cook about 4 minutes more for medium-rare, or as desired.

Serve in the pita bread, topped with the spinach mixture and drizzled with the Cumin-Yogurt Dressing.

For charcoal-grilled burgers, make a medium-hot fire (see page 12). Cook the burgers for 5 minutes. Turn and cook 4 to 5 minutes more.

For gas-grilled burgers, preheat on high until the grill is very hot, about 500°F. Cook the burgers for 5 minutes with the lid closed. Turn and cook 4 to 5 minutes more, again with the lid closed.

Note: These burgers also can be made effectively with ground round instead of the ground lamb.