Devilled Kidneys
So much has been written and said about the wonderful St John that there isn’t much I can add to the praise. For me, it’s the most influential British restaurant of all time, and to have our meat on the menu still gives me a thrill. This recipe is a St John classic.
Serves 2
6 kid kidneys, suet and membrane removed, split in half lengthways (retaining the kidney shape)
3 tablespoons plain (all-purpose) flour
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon English mustard powder
big knob of butter
splash of Worcestershire sauce
healthy splash of chicken stock
2 slices toast (white or brown, up to you, though – just an observation – white seems to sup up the juices better)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Nip out the white fatty gristle of the kidneys with a knife or scissors. Mix together the flour, cayenne, mustard, and some salt and pepper in a bowl.
Get a frying pan very hot, throw in the butter and, as this melts, roll the kidneys in the spiced flour, then shake them in a sieve to remove excess. Place them in the sizzling-hot pan and cook for 2 minutes on each side. Add a hearty splash of Worcestershire sauce and the chicken stock, and let all the ingredients get to know each other.
Remove the kidneys to your two waiting bits of toast. Let the sauce reduce and emulsify in the pan (do not let it disappear), then pour it over the kidneys and toast.