Hay was used in the past to insulate cooked foods – roasts were packed into boxes lined with hay to keep them hot when transported to outside events or to a separate kitchen. The hay gave such a lovely deep flavour that recipes were developed to capture it.
Serve with redcurrant jelly and a green salad.
Serves 8–10
1 bone-in leg of kid, about 2.5kg/5½lb, at room temperature
1 shopping bagful of unsprayed hay
100g/scant ½ cup softened butter
3 tablespoons each of chopped fresh sage and thyme
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ teaspoon cracked black pepper
1 generous glass of white wine
salt
Season the leg all over with salt and preheat the barbecue to high. Soak two-thirds of the hay in cold water for 10 minutes, then squeeze it dry. Get a high-sided barbecue cooking container ready: foil and an old baking tray or a foil tray, or construct a strong foil parcel.
Mix the butter with the herbs, garlic, pepper and a pinch of salt.
When the barbecue is ready, put the un-soaked dry hay on it, then put the leg onto a rack and place directly on top of the hay, cover the barbecue and smoke for 5 minutes (the hay will flare up and burn very quickly). Remove the leg and allow to cool slightly, while giving the barbecue a quick brush.
Using a sharp knife, prick the leg about 20 times all over, about 2cm/¾in deep. Smear with the flavoured butter, pushing it into the holes.
Put half the drained hay in your prepared barbecue container and drizzle the wine over the hay. Place the leg on top of the wine-soaked hay and put the remaining hay on top. Cover with a lid, or a double layer of foil wrapped well around the edge.
Cook the leg using indirect heat at 180°C/350°F for about 2 hours or until the internal temperature of the meat is about 65°C/150°F. Uncover and cook for about 20 minutes more, then allow to rest for 30 minutes, covered, before carving, scraping away any of the hay before carving.
Any juices from the pan can be poured off, strained and used for gravy, or used to warm through side dishes.