WAFFLES

Waffles

Bringing out the honeycombed waffle iron is a sure sign that a meal is going to be a special occasion. A homey comfort food that has gone in and out of style, waffles have withstood the tests of time and fashion. The classic waffle, with its decorative grid pattern, is ready-made to hold dark amber pools of maple syrup and melted butter. Although waffles are certainly not categorized as fancy food, they dress up well. With the addition of a number of savory ingredients, morning waffles are ready for supper. With a dusting of powdered sugar, sweet topping or spirit-spiked sauce, ice cream or flavored whipped cream, they make an unusual dessert.

Waffles have a rich and illustrious history. The original European waffle irons, with handles attached for baking over an open fire, date back to the twelfth century, when they were used to shape and bake religious sacramental wafers. Chaucer wrote of English “wafers,” and crisp French gaufres have been enjoyed as a dessert for centuries. La Varrene’s culinary bible, La Cuisinier Franfais, published in 1651, featured waffle recipes. In the seventeenth century, German waffelen were cooked between hinged cast-iron disks, which created a waffle with intricately embossed landscapes and patterns worthy of the Dutch masters. In the late 1700s Thomas Jefferson brought a long-handled French open-fire waffle iron home to Virginia from one of his forays to Europe and created the first gaufres party supper for his friends. The traditional Dutch wedding gift in early New Amstersdam was a waffle iron carved with the bride’s initials, and the butter-rich recipe for wafels is credited with most influencing the modern American waffle. Belgian waffle makers, with their exaggerated deep grids, were introduced at the New York World Fair in 1964 and are still popular in many homes.

Waffle batters are similar to those for muffins and pancakes, with the wet and dry ingredients first mixed separately, then, just before baking, combined with a minimum of strokes to form a soft, thick, pourable batter. Cake flour makes a more tender waffle than all-purpose flour, but it is an optional variation depending on your preference. To provide the crispness characteristic of waffles, there is usually a bit more fat in waffle recipes as compared to pancake batters. Although many recipes suggest beating egg whites until fluffy and then folding them into the batter, which is supposed to result in a lighter batter and a crisper waffle, this step is not required. One exception is for batters that are very low in fat, for which the additional leavening power of the stiffly beaten egg whites is essential. As with all quick breads, beat the batter just until blended (there will be a few lumps), because overmixing produces a tough, dense waffle.

Bake waffles on a lightly greased and heated iron, whether it is a preheated countertop electric waffle iron with reversible grids; a hinged, stovetop model, which is heated on both sides and flipped once during baking; the delicate “Five of Hearts” circularshaped models; a curly edged waffle iron embossed with carousel figures; a thick Belgian waffle iron; or even an exotic European model picked up while traveling. Unless you have a nonstick model, a waffle iron needs to be seasoned before its first use (see [>] for specific instructions). For the best results, always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your model. Spray-on cooking oil is the most efficient way to grease all the little corners, even on a nonstick surface (always spray the surface before preheating it).

Heat the waffle iron until the indicator light says the surface is hot. Depending on the recipe, ladle in about ½ cup to 1 cup of batter, covering the surface one-half to two-thirds full, depending on the size of the iron, and gently close the top. The batter will spread out when the iron is closed, making a full-sized waffle. After a try or two, you will know exactly how much batter to pour onto your iron.

Timing is crucial to a waffle’s color and texture. As with all culinary techniques, it is a skill best learned by experience. The general rule is about 4 to 5 minutes cooking time in a standard electric model, or until steam stops escaping from the waffle iron. A high temperature tends to make a crisp waffle, while a lower temperature bakes a waffle that is more moist and tender. When the lid is lifted, the waffle should not stick. If it does, close the iron and wait another minute. Remove the waffle with a fork and touch only the handles of the iron to prevent burns.

Waffle irons should never be submerged in water for cleaning; instead wipe the inside with a damp cloth or scrub gently with a kitchen brush (a clean toothbrush also works well), protecting the electrical element from dampness. The manufacturer’s instructions will provide the best method of cleaning your specific model, whether electric or stovetop.

As with all griddlecakes, waffles are best eaten as soon as they are baked. Leftover batter can be stored in the refrigerator for a day. To refresh the batter, combine ½ teaspoon of baking powder with 2 tablespoons of milk per 2 cups of flour in the batter, and stir into the batter before baking. Fully baked waffles can be frozen for up to 2 months. To freeze, cool waffles completely before wrapping each waffle separately in plastic wrap or freezer bags. To serve, for an impromptu meal or snack, reheat frozen waffles on a clean baking sheet in a 350°F oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or pop the frozen waffle into the toaster, where it will emerge as hot and crisp as freshly made.