START TO FINISH: 25 minutes
SERVINGS: 4
Some say spaghetti carbonara emerged after World War II, thanks in part to American soldiers and their packets of eggs. Others say the name is drawn from “carbone,” or charcoal—a reference to the dish’s complexion thanks to a copious amount of black pepper. Whatever the roots, this brighter take on carbonara came from Pipero Roma, a white-tablecloth restaurant in Rome. Their secret: The egg yolks are whisked until cooked and slightly foamy, creating a sauce that is much lighter in texture than most carbonara recipes. Mixing the yolks with water and cornstarch ensures the cheese won’t clump when tossed with the pasta.
Don’t substitute bacon for the pancetta. The smokiness of the bacon will overwhelm the cleaner flavors of the egg-based sauce.
3 ounces thinly sliced pancetta, chopped
6 large egg yolks
2 teaspoons cornstarch
6 ounces pecorino Romano cheese, finely grated (3 cups), plus more to serve
12 ounces spaghetti
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
In a 10-inch skillet over medium, cook the pancetta, stirring, until crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Measure out and reserve 3 tablespoons of the rendered fat; if needed, supplement with olive oil. Set the pancetta and fat aside.
In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, whisk 1¾ cups cold water, the egg yolks and cornstarch until smooth. Add the cheese and stir until evenly moistened. Set the pan over medium-low and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture comes to a gentle simmer and is airy and thickened, 5 to 7 minutes; use a silicone spatula to occasionally get into the corners of the pan. Off heat, whisk in the reserved pancetta fat. Set aside.
Stir the pasta and 2 tablespoons salt into the boiling water and cook until al dente. Reserve about ½ cup of the cooking water, then drain the pasta very well. Return the pasta to the pot and let cool for about 1 minute.
Pour the pecorino-egg mixture over the pasta and toss with tongs until well combined, then toss in 2 teaspoons pepper. Let stand, tossing the pasta several times, until most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 3 minutes. Crumble in the pancetta, then toss again. The pasta should be creamy, but not loose. If needed, toss in up to 2 tablespoons reserved pasta water to adjust the consistency. Transfer to a warmed serving bowl and serve with more pecorino and pepper on the side.