CHAPTER 2

ROASTING FOR FLAVOR: MEDIUM DIRECT GRILLING

Medium direct grilling is similar to roasting, but without the encapsulated heat. The fire is slightly higher than with low direct grilling—you should be able to hold your hand over it for 5 to 8 seconds—but not charring hot. Medium heat will still caramelize the meat or fish but won’t overcook it before the interior is done. This is a perfect technique for items like Grilled King Salmon, Wood-Roasted Pork Tenderloin and Beef and Asparagus Roulade, which have a tendency to dry out if cooked over heat that is too high or cooked too long over low heat.

GRILLED KING SALMON WITH ENGLISH PEAS AND MINT

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

ANDY GREW UP IN SEATTLE, AND AS FAR AS HE’S CONCERNED THERE IS NOTHING BETTER THAN KING SALMON (ALSO KNOWN AS CHINOOK SALMON) FROM PUGET SOUND. IT IS THE BIGGEST, AND SOME SAY THE BEST-TASTING, SALMON IN THE WORLD. ON THE GRILL, WITH A SIMPLE GARLIC BUTTER AND LEMON, IT CAN ROCK YOUR WORLD. IN THE SPRING, WHEN WE CAN GET FRESH PEAS, WE LOVE THIS PREPARATION.

TWO OF THE MOST COMMON ISSUES THAT COME UP WHEN GRILLING FISH ARE ITS PROCLIVITY TO STICK TO THE GRATES AND TO DRY OUT. THESE ARE EASILY ADDRESSED WITH PATIENCE AND KNOWING WHEN IT IS DONE. FOR SALMON, WE WANT AN INTERNAL TEMPERATURE OF 140°F/60°C—A NICE SOFT PINK ON THE INSIDE. PROFESSIONAL COOKS CAN TELL BY TOUCH, FEELING THE SPRING, OR GIVE, TO KNOW WHETHER FISH IS DONE. THIS TAKES PRACTICE, AND YOUR REWARD IS A GREAT SENSE OF ACCOMPLISHMENT WHEN YOU MASTER IT.

2 tbsp/30ml olive oil, plus more for fish

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 cups/300g blanched English peas or frozen peas, thawed

2 cups/475ml whole milk

30 leaves fresh mint

1 tbsp/15ml whole-grain mustard

Tabasco sauce, to taste

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 (6-oz/170g) salmon fillets, skinned and deboned

Build a medium direct fire. Spread an even layer of unlit charcoal in the bottom of the grill. Fill a chimney halfway with charcoal. Stuff two sheets of newspaper in the bottom of the chimney and light it. When the coals are fully engaged—you should see flames peeking over the top—pour them over the unlit charcoal. If using a gas grill, light the gas and adjust the temperature on both sides to medium.

Make the sauce: In a small saucepan, combine the olive oil and garlic over medium-low heat, stirring, for 2 to 4 minutes, until the garlic is dark brown. Remove the pan from the heat and cool to room temperature. Transfer the garlic and oil to a blender. Add the peas, milk and mint, and purée on high until smooth. Transfer the purée to a small bowl and stir in the mustard. Season with Tabasco, salt and pepper. Refrigerate until needed, up to 1 day in advance.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 5 to 8 seconds, clean the grill grate. Lightly brush the salmon fillets with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Grill for 2 minutes. It is very important not to move the fish. If you move it too soon, or if the grill grates were not hot enough, the flesh will tear when you move it. Once a sear has developed, rotate the fillets 90 degrees and grill for 1 minute more. Flip the fillets and repeat the process, until a thermometer inserted into the fish registers 140°F/60°C. Depending on the thickness of the cut, this should take 5 to 6 minutes.

While the salmon is cooking, heat the pea sauce slowly over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until it starts to bubble. Remove from the heat and set aside until the salmon is done.

Divide the pea sauce equally among 4 plates, and place the salmon on top. Serve immediately.

MOLLY’S TOFU TACOS

MAKES 6 TACOS

MOLLY DWYER, THE UBER-TALENTED CHEF DE CUISINE AT ANDY’S RESTAURANT, TREMONT 647, CREATED THIS FABULOUS VEGETARIAN DISH. THE GOAL FOR TREMONT 647 VEGETARIAN OPTIONS IS THAT THEY’RE SO GOOD EVERYONE WANTS TO ORDER THEM. AND THESE DEFINITELY ACHIEVE THE GOAL. SURE, WE LOVE PORK IN OUR TACOS, BUT WITH THE ZINGY CITRUS AND FRESH, SOUTHEAST ASIAN-INSPIRED FLAVORS, THESE ARE SO SATISFYING THAT EVEN THE MOST DEVOTED CARNIVORES WON’T FEEL THEY’RE MISSING ANYTHING.

IT’S BEST TO GRILL THE TOFU OVER A MEDIUM OR LOW CHARCOAL FIRE. THE MARINADE HAS SESAME OIL IN IT AND CAN FLARE UP IF THE HEAT IS TOO HIGH, WHICH WOULD MAKE THE TOFU BITTER.

¾ cup/180g sambal (chili garlic paste)

½ cup/120ml tamari or soy sauce

½ cup/120ml fresh lime juice

¼ cup/60ml sesame oil

1 tbsp/15ml agave syrup or honey

12 oz/340g piece firm tofu, cut into thirds

6 (5"/13cm) corn or flour tortillas

Sriracha Aioli, for serving (recipe follows)

1 carrot, peeled and shredded

1 cup/120g peeled and shredded daikon radish

10 leaves Thai basil, roughly chopped (or half basil and half cilantro)

10 mint leaves, roughly chopped

In a small bowl, whisk together the sambal, tamari, lime juice, sesame oil and agave. Place the tofu in a flat-bottomed bowl and pour the marinade over it. Cover and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours.

Build a medium direct fire. Spread an even layer of unlit charcoal in the bottom of the grill. Fill a chimney halfway with charcoal. Stuff two sheets of newspaper in the bottom of the chimney and light it. When the coals are fully engaged—you should see flames peeking over the top—pour them over the unlit charcoal. If using a gas grill, turn the gas on and adjust the temperature on both sides to medium.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 5 to 8 seconds, clean the grill grate. Remove the tofu from the marinade and grill for 3 minutes, until golden. Flip the tofu and grill for another 3 minutes, until the other side is golden and the tofu is warm throughout.

Remove the tofu from the grill and cut each piece into ½-inch/13mm-thick slices. Set the tortillas on the grill for 30 seconds each, to toast slightly.

Arrange the tortillas on plates, spread about 1 tablespoon/15ml of Sriracha Aioli in the center of each, and evenly divide the tofu. Sprinkle with the carrot and daikon, drizzle with aioli, then garnish with the fresh herbs. Serve immediately.

SRIRACHA AIOLI

MAKES ABOUT 1¼ CUPS/300ML

OKAY, WE CHEAT A LITTLE BIT HERE, BUT WE JUST LOVE KEWPIE MAYONNAISE, WHICH YOU CAN FIND IN MOST ASIAN MARKETS. IT HAS A TANG AND CREAMINESS THAT YOU CAN’T GET ANYWHERE ELSE. YOU CAN ALSO SUBSTITUTE YOUR FAVORITE MAYO.

1 cup/240ml Kewpie mayonnaise

¼ cup/60ml Sriracha (or your favorite Asian hot sauce)

½ tsp ground white pepper

In a small bowl, whisk together the Kewpie mayo, Sriracha and white pepper. Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week.

GRILLED ZUCCHINI SALAD WITH SEA SALT AND LEMON ZEST

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS

THERE’S A REAL SKILL TO PERFECTLY GRILLING ZUCCHINI, EGGPLANT AND SUMMER SQUASH—A SECOND TOO LONG AND YOU HAVE A MUSHY PIECE OF WE DON’T KNOW WHAT. THE KEY IS TO REMEMBER THAT, JUST LIKE A STEAK OR PIECE OF FISH, VEGETABLES KEEP COOKING AFTER THEY ARE REMOVED FROM THE HEAT SOURCE. SO IT’S IMPORTANT TO GET THEM OFF THE FIRE EARLY ENOUGH.

MAKE SURE NOT TO OVER-OIL VEGETABLES BEFORE YOU GRILL THEM. ZUCCHINI ABSORBS OIL, AND TOO MUCH WOULD MAKE THE SALAD GREASY OR THE OIL COULD DRIP AND CAUSE A FLARE-UP. WHEN YOU HAVE A FLARE-UP, SOOT, OR CARBON, ENVELOPS THE FOOD, LEAVING A BITTER TASTE IN YOUR MOUTH.

2 tbsp/30ml olive oil

2 medium-size zucchini, ends removed, sliced lengthwise ½"/13mm thick

Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

Juice of 2 lemons

2 tbsp/20g slivered almonds, toasted

2 tbsp/10g roughly chopped parsley

5 basil leaves, roughly chopped

4 mint leaves, roughly chopped

1 tbsp/15ml grated Parmesan cheese

Coarse sea salt, for serving

Lightly oil the zucchini and season with salt and pepper.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 5 to 8 seconds, clean the grill grate. Place the zucchini on the grill and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more, until it is golden brown and the zucchini is firm but you can bend it with tongs. Remove from the heat and place on a cutting board.

Slice the zucchini crosswise about ¼ inch/6mm thick and place in a bowl. Add the remaining ingredients to the zucchini and toss very gently to combine. Sprinkle sea salt over the salad and serve immediately or set aside at room temperature until serving time.

HONEY-GRILLED HOT PEPPER JELLY

MAKES 1 QUART/946ML

THIS JELLY IS DELICIOUS ON CRACKERS WITH A NICE TRIPLE-CREAM CHEESE. OR YOU CAN SPREAD IT ON PORK CHOPS TO GIVE THEM AN AWESOME KICK. FEEL FREE TO CHANGE THE PEPPERS TO ACHIEVE DIFFERENT LEVELS OF HEAT.

WHEN WE GRILL PEPPERS, IT IS ONE OF THE FEW TIMES WE ARE ACTUALLY TRYING TO BURN SOMETHING, THOUGH WE CALL IT CHARRING (A LITTLE LESS ARSON/A LITTLE MORE CULINARY). YOU HAVE TO WATCH THEM CAREFULLY BECAUSE THE OBJECTIVE IS TO CHAR THE SKIN WHILE KEEPING THE FLESH INTACT.

1 red bell pepper

1 green bell pepper

1 yellow bell pepper

2 jalapeño peppers

1 serrano pepper

2 cups/400g sugar mixed with 1 oz/28g powdered apple pectin or 1 (1.75-oz/50g) package citrus pectin

½ cup/120ml red wine vinegar

½ cup/120ml honey

2 tsp/4g minced rosemary leaves

1 tsp toasted and ground cumin seed

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 5 to 8 seconds, clean the grill grate. Place the peppers on the grill; you may have to do this in stages, depending on how big your grill is. Using tongs, as the peppers start to char, turn them over to get the entire surface area exposed to the fire. The peppers should be about 70 percent charred or black, which will take 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the peppers to a stainless steel bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let sit for 10 minutes to steam and loosen the skins.

Working with one pepper at a time, rub the charred skin off with your fingers, and remove the stem, core and seeds.

Cut the peppers into ¼ inch/6mm dice. Place in a bowl and set aside.

In a medium-size saucepan, combine the sugar with pectin, vinegar, honey, rosemary and cumin over medium-high heat, whisking until the sugar dissolves. Add the chopped peppers and increase the heat to high. Bring to a rolling boil, stirring, and boil for 1 minute. Remove from the heat. Allow to cool completely, then place in your favorite jelly jars.

ROASTING
FOR FLAVOR APPETIZERS

TUNA CARPACCIO WITH GRILLED VEGETABLE VINAIGRETTE

MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS

THIS IS A PERFECT LIGHT SUMMER APPETIZER FOR A SMALL PARTY. YOU CAN MAKE THE VINAIGRETTE IN ADVANCE AND THE TUNA THE DAY YOU WILL BE SERVING IT. THERE WILL BE PLENTY OF VINAIGRETTE LEFT OVER, AND IT’S DELICIOUS ON LOCAL GREENS OR SLICED CUCUMBERS.

WHEN YOU’RE MAKING CARPACCIO, WHETHER IT’S MEAT OR FISH, IT IS IMPORTANT FOR THE FINAL PRODUCT TO BE EVEN AND THIN. THIS TAKES PRACTICE—LOTS OF FUN AND TASTY PRACTICE.

1 small zucchini, ends removed, cut lengthwise into ½"/13mm-thick slices

1 red onion, cut into ½"/13mm-thick slices

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and sliced vertically

1 yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded and sliced vertically

Olive oil, for brushing

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

8 basil leaves, roughly chopped

1 small clove garlic, minced

1 tbsp/15ml olive oil

Juice and zest of 1 lemon

4 oz/113g sushi-quality tuna, cut into four 1 oz/28g pieces

Black pepper, to taste

Equipment: Baking sheet, wooden spoon, 4 refrigerated round plates (at least 6"/15cm in diameter)

While the grill is heating, spread the zucchini, onion and peppers on a baking sheet, lightly brush with the olive oil, and season with salt and pepper.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 5 to 8 seconds, clean the grill grate. Set the vegetables on the grate and grill for 2 to 3 minutes, until they are just starting to brown. Using a pair of tongs or a spatula, carefully rotate the vegetables 45 degrees and cook for 2 more minutes. Flip them and grill for another 2 minutes, then remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.

Once the vegetables have cooled, dice them into ¼ inch/6mm squares and set them in a small mixing bowl. Add the basil, garlic, olive oil and lemon juice and zest, and toss. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Now comes the fun part. Lay a piece of plastic wrap about the size of a dinner plate on a cutting board. Place a piece of tuna in the middle and set a second piece of plastic wrap, the same size as the first, on top. With the back of a wooden spoon, slowly pound the tuna, using medium-hard strokes, until it is uniformly paper-thin. A 1 ounce/28g piece should end up flat and about 3 to 4 inches/7 to 10cm in diameter. Remove the top piece of plastic wrap, carefully slide your hand under the tuna and turn it over onto the cold plate. Cover the plate tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until you are ready to serve, preferably at least 4 hours. Repeat with the remaining pieces.

About a half hour before serving, remove the vinaigrette from the refrigerator. When it comes to room temperature, stir and re-season if necessary.

To serve, remove the plastic wrap from the tuna. Using a slotted spoon, remove about 2 tablespoons/30g of the vegetables from the vinaigrette and mound in the center of a piece of tuna. Repeat with each piece of tuna. Drizzle about 2 teaspoons/10ml of the vinaigrette around each vegetable mound. Grind fresh black pepper over the tuna and serve immediately.

ROGER’S OLYMPIA BARBECUE OYSTERS

MAKES 6 APPETIZER SERVINGS

ANDY’S FATHER, ROGER, USED TO GRILL OLYMPIA OYSTERS WITH BARBECUE SAUCE FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS. WE TRIED THEM, LOVED THEM AND HAD TO PUT THEM IN THE BOOK. THANKS, ROGER.

GRILLING OYSTERS CAN BE DIFFICULT, BECAUSE THE BEST WAY TO GRILL THEM IS CUP-SIDE DOWN, BUT THAT WAY THEY CAN WOBBLE. TO HOLD THEM STEADY, WE ROLL RECTANGLES OF ALUMINUM FOIL INTO ½-INCH/13MM-THICK (OR SO) “POLES” THAT WE LAY ALONG THE GRILL GRATES. WE SPACE THEM RELATIVELY CLOSE TOGETHER AND SET THE OYSTERS BETWEEN, WITH THEIR BOTTOMS JUST GRAZING THE GRATES BUT SECURE ENOUGH THAT WE DON’T HAVE TO WORRY THAT THEY WILL SPILL THEIR JUICES.

2 tbsp/30g butter

2 tbsp/30ml olive oil

1 large clove garlic, minced

¼ cup/60ml ketchup

Juice and zest of 1 lemon

1 tbsp/5g minced fresh horseradish

1 tbsp/15ml Sriracha or any hot Asian chili sauce

1 tbsp/15ml rice wine vinegar

2 tsp/8g brown sugar 2 tsp/10ml Worcestershire sauce

½ tsp kosher salt

24 of your favorite oysters

Equipment: Aluminum foil (optional)

Make the barbecue sauce: In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, stir the butter, olive oil and garlic until the butter has melted but not browned and the garlic is fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the rest of the ingredients, except the oysters, mixing until well combined. Set aside until ready to use.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 5 to 8 seconds, clean the grill grate. Set out the foil “poles,” if using. Place the oysters flat side up on the grill. (For 24 oysters we suggest working in two batches.) Cover the grill and cook for 2 to 4 minutes, checking after 2 minutes to see if the oysters have started to open. Once they have opened about ¼ inch/6mm, use tongs to transfer them to a plate or foil pan, being careful not to spill any of their liquor.

Using heatproof gloves, remove the flat top shell and loosen the oyster with an oyster or paring knife, leaving it in the shell with the juices. Add about 1 teaspoon of the barbecue sauce to each oyster and place them back on the grill. Cover the grill and cook for 2 minutes more, until the sauce is hot and bubbly. Serve immediately.

WOOD-ROASTED PORK TENDERLOIN WITH GRILLED BRUSCHETTA AND PORK BUTTER SPREAD

MAKES 4 TO 6 APPETIZER SERVINGS

YES, WE KNOW—PORK BUTTER. PRETTY COOL, RIGHT? YOU’LL DEFINITELY TURN SOME HEADS WITH THIS RECIPE. IN A GOOD WAY. THE IDEA WITH THIS RECIPE IS TO CREATE A CHARCUTERIE-STYLE DISH WITHOUT THE LONG CURE TIMES OR OTHER COMPLEX ELEMENTS OF THAT CRAFT. THE PORK BUTTER, WHICH IS OUR SHORTCUT VERSION OF PORK PÂTÉ OR RILLETTES, KEEPS FOR A WHILE, SO YOU CAN MAKE IT SEVERAL DAYS BEFORE THE REST OF THE DISH.

THE FIRST THING TO KNOW HERE IS THAT THE PORK TENDERLOIN, A WONDERFUL CUT FROM THE HOG, IS TENDER, FULL OF FLAVOR AND LOW IN FAT. WHEN MEATS ARE LOW IN FAT, COOKING THEM TO THE RIGHT TEMPERATURE IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT. UNLIKE BEEF, RARE PORK IS NOT GOING TO FLY; ON THE OTHER HAND, WELL-DONE PORK IS DRY AND USELESS. PROFESSIONAL COOKS WORK WITH TOUCH AND FEEL TO KNOW WHEN MEAT IS READY (PORK SHOULD BE FIRM WITH A SLIGHT GIVE). UNTIL YOU MASTER THE TOUCH—WHICH WE ARE CONFIDENT YOU WILL DO—WE STRONGLY SUGGEST YOU MONITOR THE TEMPERATURE WITH A THERMOMETER.

1 pork tenderloin, approximately 1½ lb/680g

2 tbsp/35g sea salt

2 tbsp/10g Salt-Free Charcuterie-Style Rub (recipe follows)

12 slices crusty baguette

2 cloves garlic

High-quality olive oil, for drizzling

1 cup/240ml Pork Butter Spread (recipe follows)

Finishing salt, such as smoked, flavored or grey sea salt

Rub the pork all over with sea salt. Place on a baking sheet, cover and refrigerate overnight.

Build a medium direct fire. Spread an even layer of charcoal in the bottom of the grill. Fill a chimney halfway with charcoal. Stuff newspaper in the bottom of the chimney and light it. When the coals are fully engaged—you should see flames peeking over the top—pour them over the unlit charcoal. If using a gas grill, light the gas and adjust the temperature on both sides to medium.

Remove the pork from the refrigerator. Transfer to a platter lined with paper towels. Dry the pork and sprinkle with the rub.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 5 to 8 seconds, clean the grill grate. Place the pork on the grill and cook about 3 minutes per side on all sides, 12 to 14 minutes total, until the internal temperature reaches 140°F/60°C. Transfer the pork to a plate and let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. Either proceed with the recipe or wrap the pork tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use. The pork can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. If it has been refrigerated, let it sit at room temperature for 1 hour before continuing.

Make the bruschetta: Let the fire cool down for about 15 minutes to low heat, or build a low direct fire. (Follow the directions above but fill the chimney one-third full with charcoal and wait until you can hold your hands over the fire for 8 to 10 seconds.) Grill the bread on both sides until lightly toasted, about 1 minute per side. Rub each slice of toasted baguette with the garlic and drizzle with the olive oil.

Slice the pork into ½ inch/13mm-thick slices. Smear each piece of grilled bread with a generous portion of soft pork butter. Place a slice of pork on top and sprinkle with a scant bit of finishing salt. Arrange on a platter and serve.

SALT-FREE CHARCUTERIE-STYLE RUB

MAKES ¼ CUP/20G

1 tbsp/5g fennel seed, coarsely ground in a spice grinder

1 tbsp/5g garlic powder

½ tbsp/2.5g onion powder

½ tbsp/2.5g paprika

1 tsp crushed red pepper flakes

1 tsp ground coriander

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

In a small bowl, mix all the ingredients until blended. Cover and reserve. The rub will keep, covered, in a cool place for up to 1 month.

PORK BUTTER SPREAD

MAKES 3 CUPS/710ML

2 lb/907g pork shoulder, cut into 2" to 3"/5 to 8cm chunks

Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

1 cup/240ml chicken broth

1 medium carrot, peeled and thinly sliced

1 medium onion, chopped

¼ cup/20g chopped fresh sage leaves, plus ½ tbsp/2.5g minced

1 cup/227g salted butter (preferably European style)

Equipment: Cast-iron pot with lid

Prepare the grill for hot two-zone grilling. Pile unlit charcoals on one side of the grill. Fill a chimney with charcoal. Stuff two sheets of newspaper in the bottom of the chimney and light it. When the coals are fully engaged—you should see flames peeking over the top—pour them over the unlit charcoal. Cover the grill and open the vents all the way. If using a gas grill, light the gas and turn on just one side to high.

Season the pork with salt and pepper. When the temperature of the fire reaches 350°F/177°C, clean the grill grate. Grill the pork directly over the fire, turning, until well charred on all sides, about 15 minutes total. Transfer the pork to a cast-iron pot with a lid. Add the broth, carrot and onion and cover. Set the pot on the grill directly over the coals and bring to a boil. Move the pot to the cool side of the grill and cook for 3 hours. (You can also braise the meat in a 350°F/177°C oven for 3 hours.)

After 3 hours, test the meat with a fork. It should be very tender and the fork should glide in with little resistance. Remove the pot from the grill and add the chopped sage. Let sit at room temperature, uncovered, for 1 hour. Remove the butter from the refrigerator to soften.

Transfer the pork chunks to a blender or food processor with ¼ cup/60ml of the braising liquid. Pulse until the pork just starts reaching a pasty consistency. Avoid overprocessing; it’s okay to have some strands or chunks.

Place the butter in a bowl. Fold in the pork mixture and minced sage. Spoon the pork butter into a crock and refrigerate, covered, or roll it in parchment paper, wrap tightly in plastic wrap and freeze. It will keep for 1 week in the refrigerator, 2 months in the freezer.

BEEF AND ASPARAGUS ROULADE WITH SESAME AND SCALLIONS

SERVES 4 AS AN APPETIZER

THIS DISH IS A PERFECT APPETIZER FOR A SMALL DINNER PARTY. THE GOAL OF THE RECIPE IS TO COOK THE MEAT EVENLY AND SLIGHTLY WARM THE ASPARAGUS. IT TAKES SOME SKILL WITH TONGS AND FIRE TEMPERATURE, BUT IT’S A GREAT DISH TO PRACTICE TECHNIQUE. AND THE REWARD IS YUMMY.

TOGARASHI IS THE JAPANESE WORD FOR RED CHILE PEPPER. IN THE UNITED STATES, SOME TOGARASHI BLENDS ARE A MIX OF CHILE PEPPERS, SESAME SEEDS, SEAWEED AND OTHER INGREDIENTS. THEY CAN RANGE FROM MILD TO EXTREMELY HOT. WE LIKE OURS HOT.

8 oz/224g beef tenderloin

1 small shallot, minced

2 scallions, cut into ”/3mm rings, divided

1 tbsp/15ml Dijon mustard

1 tbsp/15ml agave nectar or honey

1 tbsp/15ml tamari or soy sauce

1 tbsp/5g toasted sesame seeds, divided

2 tsp/10ml rice wine vinegar

8 asparagus spears, blanched to al dente

Vegetable oil, for cooking

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Togarashi, for garnish

Equipment: Toothpicks

Build a medium direct fire. Spread an even layer of unlit charcoal in the bottom of the grill. Fill a chimney halfway with charcoal. Stuff two sheets of newspaper in the bottom of the chimney and light it. When the coals are fully engaged—you should see flames peeking over the top—pour them over the unlit charcoal. If you are using a gas grill, light the gas and adjust the temperature on both sides to medium.

Slice the beef against the grain into 4 equal rounds, about 2 ounces/56g each. Lay the meat flat and pound lightly with the back of a spoon to about ¼ inch/6mm thickness.

In a small bowl, mix the shallot, half the scallions, mustard, agave, tamari, half the sesame seeds and vinegar. Lay the beef slices on a plate and brush them generously with the shallot mixture. Place 2 asparagus spears on the left side of each piece of meat. Beginning at the asparagus end, start rolling, until you have a roll-up. Fasten with toothpicks. Repeat with the remaining beef slices and asparagus spears.

When you can hold your hands over the fire for no more than 5 to 8 seconds, clean the grill grate. Lightly brush vegetable oil on the outside of the rolls and season with salt and pepper. Place on the grill and sear for 45 seconds to 1 minute, until a crust starts to develop. Roll, and repeat for about 5 to 7 minutes, until all sides are seared and there is an internal temperature of 130°F/54°C.

Transfer the roulades to a wire rack and brush with the remaining sauce; allow to rest for 5 minutes. To serve, sprinkle with the remaining sesame seeds, the remaining scallions and the togarashi. And have a glass of sake.

ROASTING FOR FLAVOR APPETIZERS

SALT-FREE CHARCUTERIE-STYLE RUB

ROASTING
FOR FLAVOR APPETIZERS