Am I a risk taker when it comes to eating? I am no Anthony Bourdain, or Andrew Zimmern of the Travel Channel’s Bizarre Foods. That said, on plenty of occasions I do eat foods that are below the FDA’s guidelines for the time and temperature required to pasteurize salmonella. I love a juicy medium-rare burger, say “yes” to soft-cooked eggs, prepare homemade mayonnaise with a raw egg, and eat cheese made with raw milk.
Although salmonella bacteria are not a concern when consuming seafood, certain parasites are. This applies to eating salmon raw or cured, the technique explored in this chapter. It also applies to eating salmon below the FDA’s recommended temperature for cooking fish to 145°F [63°C]. In my opinion, and in the opinion of most chefs I know, cooking fish to that high a temperature ruins its texture and moistness. I like my fish cooked medium-rare, between 115° and 120°F [45° and 49°C], and here I am, alive and well, writing an entire book about salmon.
How do I minimize the risk of parasites? I purchase fish from a responsible source and handle it properly. Some fish, like tuna, farmed salmon, swordfish, and other freshwater fish, are considered safe to eat raw or cooked to medium or medium-rare. Other fish, including wild salmon, may have parasites that are naturally occurring and not the result of contamination. (After all, insects are in fruits and vegetables.) Roundworms (anisakid nematodes) and the larvae of tapeworms (Diphyllobothrium spp.) are the most common parasites found in fish.
When preparing and consuming raw salmon (tartare, carpaccio, sashimi, or sushi) or lightly preserved salmon (ceviche, pickled, or gravlax), use commercially frozen or flash-frozen fish that has been stored at -35°F [-37°C] or below for a minimum of fifteen hours. This kills the parasites.
Now, let’s get on to preparing the fabulous recipes in this chapter for tartare, ceviche, carpaccio, and gravlax.