One of the most delicate and simple salmon preparations is gravlax, a Scandinavian specialty in which the fish is cured in a salt-and-sugar rub. No cooking is involved. I like to think of these paper-thin slices of cured fish as one step beyond Japanese sashimi. Typically, gravlax is seasoned with fresh dill, a brandy such as Cognac, and spruce sprigs. Not everyone has a spruce tree growing in his or her yard, including me, so I’ve decided to re-create that woodsy flavor by including gin in my recipe. The mild juniper flavor of the gin is a lovely accent with the dill. Aquavit works well, too.
Serves 12 as a first course or 20 as an appetizer
1/2 cup [100 g] coarse sea salt, such as La Baleine
1/2 cup [100 g] sugar
One 3- to 4-lb [1.4- to 1.8-kg] salmon fillet, skin on and pin bones removed
10 sprigs fresh dill, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup [60 ml] gin or aquavit
Finely snipped fresh chives; thinly sliced green onions, including green tops; brined capers, drained, rinsed, and blotted dry; minced shallots; and/or English cucumber, thinly sliced, for garnish
Thinly sliced pumpernickel or other bread for serving
1Select a deep glass or ceramic baking dish the same length as the fish or nearly so. In a small bowl, stir together the salt and sugar. Spread half of the salt mixture on the bottom of the baking dish. Lay the salmon, skin-side down, in the dish. Gently rub the remaining salt mixture over the flesh side of the fillet. Sprinkle the dill evenly over the fillet. Slowly drizzle the gin evenly over the top, being careful not to rinse off the salt cure.
2Place a large sheet of plastic wrap directly on top of the fish. Rest a slightly smaller baking dish or other flat, rimmed vessel on top of the covered fish. Put something that weighs about 3 lb [1.4 kg] in the top dish. (I use full beer bottles set on their sides.) Place the weighted salmon in the refrigerator for at least 2 days, or up to 5 days. Flip the salmon once a day, being sure to return the weighted baking dish to the top of the salmon after each turn.
3Remove the weight, the top dish, and the plastic wrap. The salt cure will be completely dissolved. I leave the chopped dill on the gravlax. (Scrape it off, if desired.) Skin the fillet and then cut crosswise (against the grain) into thin slices. Arrange the slices on a platter or overlap several slices on individual plates and garnish as desired. Serve with the pumpernickel.
If not serving the cured salmon right away, it can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Or, wrap it in plastic wrap and then in a double layer of aluminum foil and place in the freezer for up to 3 months. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator before serving.