While researching all the different ways to cure salmon, I ran across several old recipes for salmon cured with pastrami spices. I was intrigued. I mean, how could this not be delicious? I love lox. I love beef pastrami. Pairing salmon with this bold spice blend was worthy of my time in the kitchen. I combined a couple of techniques and decided to do a short cure time at room temperature, and then finish the salmon by smoking it briefly on the stove top. You can serve this salmon as you would lox, with cream cheese (or soft goat cheese) and bagels. Or, toast some pumpernickel or rye bread, smear it with a little dark mustard, and top it with slices of the cured salmon.
Serves 8 to 10 as part of a brunch
2 Tbsp pink peppercorns
11/2 Tbsp dry-packed green peppercorns
1 Tbsp black peppercorns
11/2 tsp coriander seeds
2 Tbsp sweet paprika
1 Tbsp five-spice powder
1/2 cup [100 g] coarse sea salt, such as La Baleine
1/2 cup [100 g] sugar
1/2 cup [15 g] chopped fresh dill
One 2- to 21/2-lb [910-g to 1.2-kg] center-cut salmon fillet, skin on and scaled, pin bones removed
You will also need
1/4 cup [20 g] pulverized apple-wood smoking chips
1TO MAKE THE SPICE MIXTURE: Combine the pink, green, and black peppercorns and the coriander seeds in small, heavy-bottomed frying pan, preferably cast iron. Place the pan over medium-low heat and toast the spices, stirring frequently, until very fragrant, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, transfer to a small bowl, and let cool for 5 minutes.
2Using a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder (or a very clean coffee grinder), pulverize the toasted spices to a fine powder. Return the ground spices to the small bowl and stir in the paprika and five-spice powder. (The mixture will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 months.)
3In a medium bowl, combine the salt, sugar, dill, and 11/2 Tbsp of the pastrami spice mixture and mix well.
4Select a deep glass or ceramic baking dish the same length as the fish or nearly so. Spread half of the salt mixture on the skin side of the salmon. Lay the salmon, skin-side down, in the dish. Gently rub the remaining salt mixture over the flesh side of the fillet. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature for 5 hours, flipping the salmon and re-covering the dish after 21/2 hours.
5Using a stove-top smoker or a wok, line the bottom of the pan with a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil. (Using heavy-duty foil makes for easier cleanup.) Pour the smoking chips onto the foil in the center of the pan and spread in an even layer over the center. Sprinkle 1 Tbsp of the pastrami spice mixture evenly over the top. Drizzle a few drops of water over the spice mixture. If using a stove-top smoker, lay another piece of foil on top, covering all of the wood-smoking mixture. Cover a drip tray with foil and place it on top of the second piece of foil. If using a wok, lay a large sheet of foil loosely over the wood-smoking mixture. Coat a wire rack with nonstick cooking spray and place on top of the drip tray or the foil.
6Scrape the salt mixture off both sides of the salmon with the back of a knife. Wipe each side of the salmon with a damp paper towel until most of the salt is removed. Arrange the salmon, flesh-side up, on the rack. Slide the lid on the stove-top smoker or cover the wok, leaving it slightly open, and then place the smoker or wok over medium heat. When the first wisp of smoke appears, close the lid or tightly cover the wok. Smoke the salmon for 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the salmon in the smoker or wok, covered, for an additional 5 minutes.
7Transfer the salmon to a plate to cool. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate. (Once cured and smoked, the salmon will keep in the refrigerator for up to 10 days.)
8When ready to serve, transfer the salmon to a cutting board. Slide a spatula between the salmon flesh and the skin, separating them, and discard the skin. Cut the salmon crosswise (against the grain) into thin slices. Arrange the slices on a platter and serve.
