In the past, meats or fish were traditionally preserved by cooking them in an abundant amount of fat and flavoring liquid. The food was often pulverized or pounded into a paste and then packed into crocks and sealed airtight with a layer of fat. The French have their rillettes and confits; the English have their potted foods. Preserving salmon this way is ideal for do-ahead entertaining, especially for the holidays. I serve this richly textured salmon with crostini or rye crackers and accompany it with cornichons, pickled onions, and pickled baby beets.
Serves 12 as an appetizer
One 1-lb [455-g] salmon fillet, skin and pin bones removed
Fine sea salt
1/2 cup [110 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 large shallot, minced
2 Tbsp dry white wine
4 oz [115 g] smoked salmon (lox), cut into 1/4-in [6-mm] dice
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice
1 egg yolk
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Freshly ground white pepper
1Cut the salmon fillet into four equal portions. Sprinkle the salmon on one side with 1/4 tsp salt and let stand at room temperature for 20 minutes.
2In a sauté pan just large enough to hold the salmon in a single layer, melt 2 Tbsp of the butter over medium-low heat. When the butter foams, add the shallot and sauté until soft but not brown, about 2 minutes. Add the salted salmon pieces in a single layer and pour the wine over the top. Cover the salmon with a piece of wax paper just slightly smaller than the diameter of the pan and then with a tight-fitting lid and cook for 2 minutes. Turn the salmon, re-cover with the wax paper and lid, and cook just until the fish turns opaque, about 2 minutes longer. Remove the pan from the heat but keep it covered and let the salmon cool in the pan.
3In a food processor, process the remaining 6 Tbsp [85 g] butter until creamy. Use a fork to flake the cooled salmon and then add it to the butter. Add the smoked salmon and pulse the mixture just until all the ingredients are evenly mixed. The texture should be grainy; do not process until smooth. Add the olive oil, lemon juice, egg yolk, nutmeg, and a little pepper and pulse just until mixed. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
4Pack the salmon mixture into either two 1-cup [240-ml] crocks or ramekins or one 2-cup [480-ml] ramekin. (You can also use widemouthed Mason jars.) Smooth the surface. Press a sheet of plastic wrap directly onto the salmon, forcing out any air pockets, and then press the plastic wrap against the sides of the container to seal securely. (Or, use clarified butter to seal the ramekins as described in the Cook’s Note.)
5Refrigerate the salmon for at least 2 days before serving to allow the flavors to meld. It will keep for up to 5 days if sealed with plastic wrap (or up to 8 days if sealed with clarified butter).
6Remove the salmon from the refrigerator about 40 minutes before serving so it is not refrigerator cold.
To make clarified butter for sealing the potted salmon, melt 1/2 cup [110 g] unsalted butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Pour the butter into a 1-cup [240-ml] glass measure and set aside until the foam rises to the top and the milky residue settles to the bottom. (If you have a microwave, skip the saucepan and melt the butter directly in a microwave-safe container.) Skim off the foam and carefully pour the clear yellow liquid into another measuring cup or small bowl. Discard the milky residue.
To seal the potted salmon with the clarified butter, pour the butter to a depth of about 1/3 in [8 mm] onto the surface of the salmon in the ramekin(s). Let the butter harden and then cover the ramekin(s) with plastic wrap and refrigerate the salmon for at least 2 days, or up to 8 days. To serve, run a paring knife around the rim of the ramekin and lift off the butter. Carefully scrape off any of the salmon mixture that adheres to the butter. (I hate to waste the butter, so I save it for frying eggs or sautéing fish. It’s best to use it within a few days.)