In many Asian and Latin American cuisines, banana leaves are used to wrap foods for steaming and grilling. It’s an artful and natural way to enclose foods, protecting them from direct heat and sealing in moisture. In addition, the leaves impart a subtle grassy flavor. Be sure to wipe off the whitish coating on the leaves thoroughly before using them for wrapping. Refreeze the extra banana leaves in the package; they’re handy to have on hand for grilling other fish that tend to stick to the grill grate, such as halibut and cod. If you have access to fresh fig leaves, they will work equally well for wrapping the fish. The directions for this recipe are long, but I wanted to give detailed instructions on how to wrap the fish to ensure success.
Serves 4
4 center-cut salmon fillets, about 6 oz [170 g] each, skin and pin bones removed
1 lemongrass stalk
2 green onions, white part coarsely chopped and green tops thinly sliced crosswise
2 large garlic cloves, smashed with the side of a chef’s knife
1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh cilantro stems, plus 8 sprigs for garnish
1 Tbsp peeled and finely grated fresh ginger
1 Thai bird chile, stemmed and halved lengthwise
1 Tbsp fresh lime juice, plus 4 lime wedges
2 tsp sugar
2 tsp fine sea salt
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
You will also need
9 pieces frozen banana leaf, 6 by 10 in [15 by 25 cm] each, thawed (see Cook’s Note)
1Remove the salmon from the refrigerator 30 minutes before grilling to bring it to room temperature. Pat dry with paper towels.
2Trim off the root end from the lemongrass stalk, then cut off and discard the tough green tops. You should have a bulb about 4 in [10 cm] long. Peel away the tough outer leaves, cut the bulb crosswise into 1/2-in [12-mm] pieces, and then smash the pieces with the side of a chef’s knife. Drop the pieces into a food processor. Add the white part of the green onions along with the garlic, cilantro stems, ginger, chile, lime juice, sugar, salt, and pepper and pulse until finely minced, stopping to scrape down the sides of the work bowl once or twice.
3Place the salmon fillets, skinned-side down, on a work surface. Using a sharp knife, lightly score the top side of each fillet, cutting no more than 1/8 in [3 mm] deep and making diagonal cuts about 1 in [2.5 cm] apart. Place the fillets, scored-side up, in a single layer in a glass or ceramic baking dish. Using a rubber spatula, coat the scored side of each fillet with the lemongrass mixture, dividing it equally. (The cuts will allow the mixture to penetrate the fish.) Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.
4Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill to medium-high.
5While the grill is heating, wipe each banana-leaf piece clean with a damp paper towel, removing all of the whitish dusty coating. Using two leaf pieces, arrange one piece horizontally and the other one vertically, in the shape of a cross. Place a fillet, marinated-side up, in the center, where the pieces cross. Working carefully (the leaves tear easily), bring the top of the vertical piece over to cover the fish, tucking it under the bottom of the fillet. Bring the bottom piece up and fold it over the top. Hold it in place with one hand, if needed, while you bring the left side of the horizontal leaf up and over the fillet, tucking it underneath. Repeat on the right side to enclose the fish in a rectangular parcel. It is fine—desirable, actually—to have the fish enclosed in several layers, which help seal in the juices. Set the packet aside while you wrap the remaining fish fillets the same way.
6Cut the extra banana leaf into eight long, ribbonlike strips. Use these strips as ties, tying each parcel securely in two places, as if securing a gift.
7When ready to grill, first create a cool zone by banking the coals to one side of the charcoal grill or by turning off one of the burners of the gas grill. Oil the grill grate. Place the banana-leaf parcels directly over the fire and cover the grill. Grill on one side for 5 minutes. Using a wide spatula, carefully turn the parcels over and re-cover the grill. Cook on the second side for 2 minutes. Move the parcels to the cool side of the grate and continue to cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted through the wrapper into the center of a fillet registers about 120°F [49°C], about 2 minutes longer.
8Transfer the parcels to a large baking sheet. The outer leaf on each parcel will be brittle, charred, and cracked; carefully remove and discard it. Using a spatula, transfer each parcel to a warmed dinner plate. Open the leaves to reveal the fish and then artfully tuck the edges of the leaves underneath the fish. Garnish each serving with a couple of cilantro sprigs and place a lime wedge next to each fillet. Serve immediately.
Banana leaves are available in the frozen-foods section of many Asian and Latin American markets. I have occasionally seen them fresh in the produce aisle. The leaves are usually imported from Thailand or the Philippines and come in 16-oz [454-g] packages. Partially thaw the package (this takes only a few minutes) and remove as much as you need for the recipe. Reseal the package, pressing out all the air, and freeze the remainder for later use. They will keep for several months.