ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

I  wish to thank the many individuals who have contributed to the four editions of this book since it first appeared in 1965. My first thanks are to Norman Dyhrenfurth, whose dream and tenacious commitment made this story come to pass. In addition to those mentioned in the Preface to the First Edition, especially the father–son pair Dave and Ken Brower, I want to express my huge appreciation to my faithful editing critics: Kathy Hornbein, Jon Krakauer, and Bill Sumner.

For their contributions to the beautiful photography captured between these pages, thanks to many of my AMEE teammates. In particular, I want to acknowledge Barry Bishop’s iconic photograph that is the cover of this book; it is the image that wordlessly captures what we were about. Jake Norton, Bill Thompson, and Ed Webster have provided grand photographs of our playing field. Dee Molenaar’s route sketch on page 71, created when he was an almost mature 94, is the imprimatur of a mountaineer artist and special friend. The crayon drawing on page 284 provides counterpoint to Dee’s portrayal, as seen through the imagination of my then four-year-old daughter, Andrea, aka Betsy, while her dad was off cavorting on the mountain; she shows “Tom” atop a seemingly sanguine Everest with his five kids tied in to the rope below.

Also thanks to the many individuals who suggested the special bits of writing that precede each chapter and scattered elsewhere throughout the book. Brot Coburn, who is in the throes of writing his own book about our expedition through the retrospectroscope of half a century later, contributed the after-Everest bios on each of the team (pages 290–300).

And last, my huge gratitude to those at The Mountaineers Books who have managed this author’s quirky wishes with patience and diplomacy. Working with Mary Metz, who has been the designated driver for this new edition, has been both adventure and downright fun. And last of all is Mary’s ultimate boss, Helen Cherullo, who has brought vision and mission to The Mountaineers Books and who has been a stalwart believer in this particular book as part of the Legends and Lore series.

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Clouds dancing with Pumori in the setting sun, from Base Camp (Photo by Barry Corbet)