Mike Isabella

CHEF/OWNER—GRAFFIATO, BANDOLERO, KAPNOS, AND G, WASHINGTON, D.C.

“My mouth has definitely gotten me into trouble my whole life. I’m a New Jersey Italian who comes from a broken family, and I had to fight my whole life to get where I am.”

—Mike Isabella, from a 2011 interview in the Chicago Tribune after his second-place finish on Top Chef Masters

Chef Mike Isabella was named Food & Wine’s “The People’s Best New Chef Mid-Atlantic” in 2012, but he is probably much better known for his appearances on Bravo’s Top Chef. He was first on the show during Season Six in 2009, where he finished sixth, and was also on Season Eight (the All-Stars edition), where he finished second. Yet, long before his TV notoriety, Mike spent years working with some of the most respected chefs in the country. Born and raised in New Jersey, he started his formal training at the Restaurant School in New York City, taking classes while working in restaurants around the city. One of his first jobs in the city was working for fellow Eat Ink chef Ed Witt (see entry in this part) as a line cook at the now-closed Nicole’s on the Upper East Side. Mike eventually moved to Philadelphia to work with Starr Restaurants, which now operates twenty-three restaurants across Philadelphia, New York, Atlantic City, and Washington, D.C. Mike worked at a number of Starr restaurants, and it was there that he saw what it took to run a multilocation restaurant group. His first position was as a sous-chef for James Beard Award–winner Douglas Rodriguez at the modern Latin restaurant Alma de Cuba. His time at Alma de Cuba and the time he later spent working for Iron Chef Jose Garces at his modern Mexican restaurant El Vez was when Mike learned true Latin cuisine. This eventually led him to the position of executive sous-chef on the opening team of Top Chef Master Marcus Samuelsson’s Washington Square restaurant. There, Mike saw what it takes to open a fine-dining restaurant from the beginning.

Continuing to seek out his culinary passion, Mike left Philadelphia in 2005 and moved to Atlanta, GA, to work as the chef de cuisine of the seafood-inspired Kyma, one of the top Greek restaurants in the country. While working at Kyma and after traveling to Greece, the Mediterranean, and parts of the Middle East, Mike developed his love and understanding of Greek cuisine. In the spring of 2007, he continued his Greek focus by moving to Washington, D.C., to work as executive chef of José Andrés’s Zaytinya, a Greek/Mediterranean tapas restaurant. During Mike’s three years at Zaytinya, the restaurant was consistently ranked as Washingtonian magazine’s “100 Very Best Restaurants,” and Mike was named as a “Rising Culinary Star of the Year” nominee by the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington in both 2009 and 2010. During this time, Mike was urged by José Andrés to try out for Top Chef.

Eventually, Mike decided that he wanted to get back to his Italian-American heritage from his days growing up in the suburbs of New Jersey. He says, “I wanted to go back to my roots and get away from Greek for a little while.” To fulfill this dream, Mike opened Graffiato, an Italian-inspired restaurant in D.C.’s Chinatown, in June 2011. In May of 2012, Mike opened Bandolero, a modern Mexican-style restaurant serving mostly small plates, in the Georgetown neighborhood of Washington, D.C. In 2012, Mike released his first cookbook, Crazy Good Italian.

Mike’s tattoos are almost all tied to his culinary endeavors. He tattooed an evil eye on his right hand to protect him from evil spirits before going on Top Chef Season Six, and he has a “badass pizza cutter” across his right forearm, next to his star tattoo, to commemorate the opening of Graffiato. Mike’s Hawaiian-themed tattoos on his left leg in a way are responsible for how he happened to open Bandolero. After being tattooed at Jinx Proof Tattoo in Georgetown, Mike ran into restaurateur Jonathan Umbel, who ran the recently closed Hook. After looking over the space that once housed Hook that day, they would eventually partner on Bandolero in the same spot. Mike’s left upper arm is now tattooed with a Day of the Dead–style bandolero, the namesake for the restaurant in Georgetown.

Today, Mike continues to get tattooed and continues to open restaurants. In the spring of 2013, he opened G, an Italian deli and sandwich shop, in Edison, NJ. However, Mike is most excited about his return to Greek food with his new restaurant, Kapnos.

Kapnos Octopus



  1. For Large Octopus: Preheat oven to 350°F. Place peppercorns, star anise, coriander, fennel seed, allspice, thyme, garlic, and bay leaf in a piece of cheesecloth. Tie the cloth tightly with a piece of string, making a sachet. Take large octopus, cut off all tentacles, and throw away head. Once the head is cut off, you’ll see the circular beak directly in the middle of the octopus. Remove beak. Add sachet, red wine vinegar, and octopus to hotel pan and cover with aluminum foil. Place hotel pan in oven and cook for 45 minutes to an hour, or until no chewy bite is left. Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and stab a few holes in plastic wrap. Once cooked, remove octopus from braising liquid and stuff into the terrine mold. Be sure to pack in as many octopus tentacles as possible. Then place mold in the refrigerator and place a large, weighted object (like a gallon of milk or a case of beer) on top of the mold, making sure it pushes all the tentacles down into the mold. Allow the terrine to press for about 6 hours, until octopus completely cools down. Once cooled, wrap in plastic and freeze in freezer overnight, until completely frozen.
  2. For Baby Octopus: Place peppercorns, star anise, coriander, fennel seed, allspice, thyme, garlic, and bay leaf in a piece of cheesecloth. Tie the cloth tightly with a piece of string, making a sachet. Cut head off of baby octopus and throw in trash. Once the head is cut off, you’ll see the circular beak directly in the middle of the octopus. Remove beak. Place octopus into a small pot with your sachet of spices, vinegar, and water. Place into oven at 350°F and check after 30 minutes. The only way to find out if it is cooked is by biting it: Octopus should be tender and chew easily. Allow octopus to cool and set aside.
  3. For Grapefruit Cells: Supreme the grapefruit. Place in bowl. Heat oil in a pan to 300°F, then pour the oil over the grapefruit. Constantly stir the grapefruit, causing the cells to break apart. Strain into chinois.
  4. For Vegetables: Place sugar, vinegar, and water into a pot. Bring to a boil. Place pearl onions in a bowl or plastic container. Once pickling liquid is boiling, pour onto onions. Allow the onions to cool down in liquid at room temperature. They can be left in pickling liquid until ready to use. Fill a medium-size pot with water and bring to a boil. Place sea beans into boiling water for about 10 seconds. Immediately remove sea beans from water and submerge into ice water. Cooking the sea beans is mainly done to remove impurities and to bring out the bright green color. The texture will still have a little bite to it. Peel and cut cucumbers in a baton shape. Thinly slice chilies with a sharp knife. Thinly shave fennel with mandoline.
  5. To Complete: Remove Large Octopus terrine from freezer. Slice octopus with a meat slicer very thinly and lay onto plate very flat. It’s important that the Large Octopus terrine is frozen solid. Brush olive oil on top of the sliced frozen octopus; then apply a thin layer of Grapefruit Cells. Take the braised Baby Octopus and cut tentacles apart. Preheat a large sauté pan coated with oil on high heat and char the Baby Octopus tentacles. Be sure to rotate tentacles to char completely. Add cucumbers, Fresno chilies, fennel, pickled onions, sea beans, and dill into a bowl with lemon juice. Toss the salad with charred Baby Octopus. Place salad and Baby Octopus onto the middle of the thinly sliced Large Octopus terrine. The terrine is meant to be cold and the Baby Octopus is to be eaten hot.