Rick Tramonto

CHEF/CO-OWNER—RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION, TRAMONTO STEAK AND SEAFOOD, OSTERIA DI TRAMONTO, RT LOUNGE, CHICAGO, IL

“Scars are not injuries, Tanner Sack. A scar is a healing. After injury, a scar is what makes you whole.”

—China Miéville, The Scar

A thirty-plus-year veteran to restaurants, Rick is easily one of the most respected chefs to call Chicago home. He has published seven cookbooks; appeared on numerous television shows, including The Today Show, Top Chef Masters, and Iron Chef; and has worked at a very long list of highly ranked restaurants, such as Tavern on the Green; Gotham Bar and Grill in New York City; Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago; Stapleford Park in Leicestershire, England; and the Criterion Restaurant in Piccadilly Circus. He has also run a variety of exclusive restaurants, including the world-renowned four-star fine-dining restaurant Tru, Tramonto Steak and Seafood, Osteria di Tramonto, and RT Lounge. He has worked with great European chefs, such as Pierre Gagnaire, Anton Mosimann, Michel Guérard, and Raymond Blanc.

Rick’s success story is made even more amazing when you take his tough childhood into account. When Rick was fifteen, he came home to have his father tell him that he was fleeing the country for Mexico. Rick says, “He said that he was going to run away. He had embezzled a bunch of money and was in trouble with the law and needed to disappear for seven years. At first, it felt very exciting. It felt like being in a movie. It was like mafia, like growing up mafia.” The next day, Rick skipped school and spent the day smoking pot with a friend across the street from his house. While there that afternoon, he saw federal agents come to his home looking for his father. His father was arrested two days later while trying to board a plane. He received five years in prison. Oddly enough, it was his father’s arrest that started Rick on the road to culinary greatness. Being the only man of the house, he quit school and took a job at one of the only places he could: Wendy’s.

As Rick discovered his talent for cooking and started working at better and better restaurants, he also met his first wife, Gale Gand, who is also a highly acclaimed chef. Once married, Gale and Rick went overseas to work with many of the chefs they had revered for so long including Pierre Gagnaire, Anton Mosimann, Michel Guerard, Raymond Blanc, and Alain Chapel. But after Gale’s father’s death, they returned to Chicago, where they decided to open their own restaurant, Tru, an upscale Mediterranean-influenced French restaurant. In the midst of opening Tru, Rick had some of the best experiences of his life—and some of the worst. While opening Tru, Gale and Rick decided to divorce, and Rick lost his mother, his house, and even his dog. But he also signed his fourth book deal, and Tru became a world-class restaurant. Rick also rediscovered his faith that year. After his divorce, Rick spent all his time (eighty hours a week) working at Tru, and going to church. Then, out of the blue, he got a call from an old friend, Eileen Caroll. Rick met Eileen when he was working at Wendy’s back in 1977. She was the sandwich girl next to his burger station. Two years after that, they were married, and Rick has never been happier.

Since food and faith are the two things that keep Rick going from day to day, they’re also represented on his body. Rick is covered in tattoos, but the two that define him the most are the words down his forearms, “Chef” on his right and “Faith” on his left. His tattoos and his scars are symbols of the things that matter to him most and serve as a reminder of things he has chosen not to do anymore. Paying homage with ink to his love of food and faith, Rick’s tattoos include a portrait of Jesus on his chest along with the passage from John 8:36—“If the Son therefore shall make you free, ye shall be free indeed”—on his left shoulder. He also has a knife set on his left calf; a pig and crab on his right arm; and wine, grapes, and barbed wire on his left arm. In progress on Rick’s right elbow is a koi fish that symbolizes transformation and perseverance, traits that Rick knows well.

Today, Rick continues on his culinary path by travelling between Chicago and New Orleans, operating his awarded and highly popular restaurants. He has no plans to stop getting tattooed any time soon.

Gemelli con la Salsa dell Erba e Pollo (Gemelli with Chicken and Spring Herb Sauce)

This dish showcases Rick’s Italian upbringing and heritage.

SERVES 4

FOR PARMESAN BROTH:

1 tablespoon whole peppercorns

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 gallon chicken stock

11⁄2 pounds Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese rind or scraps of cheese

1 bay leaf

1 sprig fresh thyme

2 tablespoons olive oil

Kosher salt, to taste

FOR OVEN-DRIED CHERRY TOMATOES:

16 cherry tomatoes

About 1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

FOR SPRING HERB SAUCE:

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 bunches flat-leaf parsley, stemmed

2 cups fresh basil leaves

1⁄2 cup fresh tarragon leaves

1⁄2 cup fresh chervil leaves

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

6 ice cubes

1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

TO COMPLETE:

12 ounces asparagus tips (usually 1 bunch)

1 cup torn roasted chicken meat

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 pound gemelli pasta

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

4 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

  1. For Parmesan Broth: In a stockpot, toast the peppercorns and pepper flakes over medium heat for about 30 seconds or until fragrant. Add the chicken stock and cheese rind and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Add the bay leaf, thyme, and olive oil and simmer the broth uncovered for about 1 hour, adjusting the heat to maintain the simmer. Remove and discard the cheese rind and bay leaf. Season to taste with salt. Using a hand mixer or emulsion blender, mix the broth until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve or chinois into a bowl. Use immediately or let the broth cool, cover, and refrigerate for up to 5 days.
  2. For Oven-Dried Cherry Tomatoes: Preheat the oven to 250°F. Cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise. Set each half, cut-side up, on a baking pan and drizzle with enough olive oil to coat. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Let the tomatoes “dry” in the oven for about 20 minutes, or until they are slightly softened and the edges are slightly crispy. Let the tomatoes cool; then use immediately or refrigerate in an airtight container, covered with olive oil, for up to 7 days.
  3. For Spring Herb Sauce: In the canister of a blender, process the oil, parsley, basil, tarragon, chervil, and garlic until smooth. Add the ice cubes and blend for 30 seconds, until the ice is crushed. Add the cheese and blend until incorporated. Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days or until ready to use.
  4. To Complete: Fill a saucepan with water to a depth of about 6 inches and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Add the asparagus tips and cook uncovered for about 1 minute, just until bright green. Place the tips in ice water to stop the cooking. Drain the asparagus tips and set aside. In a separate saucepan, bring 3 cups Parmesan Broth to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the chicken, asparagus, and butter. Return to a simmer and cook uncovered for about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm. Meanwhile, cook the pasta according to the package directions until nearly al dente. Drain, reserving about 1⁄4 cup of the pasta water. Add the pasta, 16 Oven-Dried Cherry Tomatoes, pasta water, and 3⁄4 cup Spring Herb Sauce to the saucepan with the chicken and season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a brisk simmer over medium-high heat and cook uncovered for 2 minutes or until the pasta is al dente. Ladle into bowls and shave the cheese over the servings. Serve immediately.