Gregory Gourdet

CHEF DE CUISINE—DEPARTURE, PORTLAND, OR

“I was run down from living that way and needed a change.”

—Gregory Gourdet

Gregory Gourdet didn’t start out thinking that he wanted to be a chef. Born and raised in Queens, New York, Gregory attended the University of Montana, where he studied wildlife biology and French. While there, he moved in with a roommate who turned out to be a pretty good cook. While cooking meals with his roommate, Gregory became interested in food and started working as a dishwasher at a vegetarian deli. By the time he graduated with his bachelor’s degree, Gregory had decided to attend the Culinary Institute of America back in New York.

Gregory excelled at the CIA. He says, “It was the first time everything clicked and school was easy.” After completing an externship with world-famous French chef and restaurateur Jean-Georges Vongerichten at Jean-Georges in New York City and graduating from culinary school, Gregory began working in the famous chef’s kitchen full-time. Eventually he worked his way to chef de cuisine at 66, a former Jean-Georges modern Chinese restaurant. However, Gregory “was having way too much fun living that New York lifestyle.” He was staying out all night clubbing and partying. He says, “I had major issues with substance abuse. I became unreliable and irresponsible.” It took rehab and a move to Portland, Oregon, to make Gregory realize that he was missing out on the life he wanted, and that he wasn’t being the person he wanted to be. Gregory says, “I got sober and quit smoking and have never looked back. In the past few years, I have accomplished goals I never imagined I wanted to achieve.”

All the healthy living and hard work has paid off, and Gregory’s food has received a variety of awards and accolades. In 2011, he was nominated for Food & Wine’s “People’s Best New Chef Northwest,” and in 2012, he won the Great American Seafood Cook-Off in New Orleans, becoming the first chef outside of a gulf state to win this esteemed title. Also, his “Brussels Sprouts with Chili and Lime” was named one of the “Best Vegan Dishes in Portland” by The Oregonian, and he was named Eater’s “Hottest Chef in Portland.” In addition, Gregory has completed twelve marathons, including three ultra-marathons (longer than 26.2 miles), and he has no plans to stop running. Gregory says, “There is a true sense of determination that comes with being an ultra-runner. This drive helps me in other parts of my life.”

Gregory’s tattoo is a tribute to the city that helped him get his big break. The tattoo is the center of a rose, the iconic symbol of the city of Portland, OR, and says, “To thine own self be true.” For Gregory, it is a reminder about the good that can come when you give yourself second chances.

Curry Noodles, Slow Chicken, Pickled Mustard Greens, and Toasted Chili

This modern interpretation of a very traditional Thai dish, Khao Soi, is one of Gregory’s signature dishes. At Departure, he finds inspiration in the Asian classics and updates them with modern cooking techniques and local products. Everything is connected to his tattoo: “To thine own self be true.” You can’t be anything or make anything without self-honesty.

YIELDS 6 SERVINGS

FOR CURRY NOODLE BROTH:

21⁄2 ounces ginger, peeled, finely chopped

21⁄2 ounces garlic, chopped

11⁄2 ounces salt

3 ounces vegetable oil

1 ounce curry paste

1 ounce turmeric

72 ounces coconut milk

11 ounces palm sugar

3 chicken carcasses, roasted and chopped

36 ounces chicken stock

4 ounces fish sauce

3 ounces lime juice

FOR CHICKEN:

6 boneless chicken breasts and thighs, skin-on

Salt and pepper, to taste

TO COMPLETE:

15 ounces cooked, flat egg noodles

3 ounces toasted chili oil, to garnish (use to taste)

Pickled mustard greens, to garnish

Sliced shallots, to garnish

Cilantro leaves, to garnish

Fried, thin egg noodles, to garnish

Lime wedges, to garnish

  1. For Curry Noodle Broth: In a large pot, sweat ginger and garlic in salt and oil. Cook uncovered over medium-low heat until aromatic and translucent, about 20 minutes. Add curry paste, turmeric, and some skimmed coconut milk fat and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until fragrant and toasted. To get milk fat make sure not to shake the can of coconut milk before opening, open can, and scoop out the creamy coconut milk on top. Add remaining coconut milk, palm sugar, chicken carcasses, and chicken stock. Simmer uncovered until reduced by 1⁄3 and at medium consistency, about 40 minutes. Add the fish sauce and lime juice. Bring to a quick simmer again and remove from heat. Let cool slightly and strain broth through a fine strainer. Squeeze bones and aromatic pulp well to get maximum flavor. Allow to cool completely; then refrigerate overnight. Broth stored in an airtight container will keep for 4 days in the fridge.
  2. For Chicken: Season chicken with plenty of salt and pepper. Place in a large Cryovac bag with 2 cups of cold Curry Noodle Broth. Cook at 145°F in a circulator water bath for 55 minutes. If you don’t have a Cryovac, season chicken with salt and pepper. In a large sauté pan, brown chicken over medium-high heat in 2 ounces of hot oil, skin-side down. Add 2 cups of Curry Noodle Broth and simmer chicken in broth until cooked and tender, about 40 minutes. Shock and cool completely in an ice bath. Dice chicken into bite-size pieces. Save and use all liquids when serving broth.
  3. To Complete: In a large soup pot, add diced Chicken to Curry Noodle Broth and simmer uncovered at medium-low heat until hot. Pour 10 ounces of broth per person over blanched egg noodles. Garnish with toasted chili oil, pickled mustard greens, sliced shallots, cilantro, fried egg noodles, and a squeeze of lime wedge. Enjoy!

NOTES FROM THE CHEF

The chicken in this recipe is cooked in the broth, so when making this dish, make the broth a day ahead.