Chris Curren

EXECUTIVE CHEF—WEST TOWN BAKERY, CHICAGO, IL

“You know each one [tattoo] is from a place and time in my life. They all have meaning at that point.”

—Chris Curren

Growing up in Cleveland, Ohio, Chris Curren’s parents allowed him to experiment in the kitchen from a young age, but cooking wasn’t always his passion. Chris initially pursued a bachelor’s degree in prelaw at the University of Dayton in Dayton, Ohio, but by his junior year, he realized that he just wasn’t that interested in it anymore. While in college, Chris earned extra money working in the cafeteria, and after graduating in 2001, he applied to the Pittsburgh Culinary School (now called Le Cordon Bleu Institute of Culinary Arts in Pittsburgh).

After finishing culinary school, Chris returned to Cleveland, where he worked in many of the top restaurants in the area, including Three Birds in Lakewood, Ohio. He found a mentor in chef Bruce Kalman, who offered him the chef de cuisine position at Three Birds, where Kalman was executive chef. Chris says of Kalman, “I worked for Bruce when I was just getting into the field. He opened my eyes to the ‘culinary scene’ as opposed to just working in restaurants. He taught me techniques I still use today, and showed me how to effectively run a kitchen. He has always been a guide and a voice of reason when I have come to crossroads in my career and remains a close friend today. I would say he is one of three people who truly influenced my cooking style.” Writing seasonal menus and weekly specials, Chris helped Three Birds gain national notoriety, being named Esquire magazine’s “Best New Restaurant” in 2003, Cleveland Magazine’s “Best New Restaurant” in 2003, and one of Bon Appétit’s “Top 50 Restaurants in America” in 2005.

In 2006, Chris, who was looking to grow professionally, decided he wanted to hone his skills in the larger market of Chicago, but once there, he realized that his abilities were more developed than he thought. He says, “I thought there would be something more, but I became disheartened by the fine-dining scene. I was further along than I knew.” Wanting more, by 2008 Chris, along with business partner and fellow Clevelander Dan Marunowski, opened Blue 13, an American fine-dining restaurant that prided itself on its accessibility and ability to remove the pretense or self-importance of other fine-dining establishments. Before closing its doors in 2012, the restaurant earned a recommendation from Michelin as well as a mention in Chicago magazine’s “Best Restaurants in Chicago: 30 under $30" in 2010. Today, Chris has joined the Fifty/50 Restaurant Group as executive chef in charge of the opening of Homestead, which according to the restaurant’s website is “A literal farm-to-table restaurant.”

Chris is very focused on his cooking, but when you start to talk to him about his tattoos, you see another side of him. Most of his ink isn’t food related, but rather speaks to his spirituality and his love for his friends and family. He got his first tattoo on his back, an Aztec sun. Why? His roommate in college was a fine arts major and he inspired Chris to take a greater interest in visual arts. Chris now sports full sleeves on both his arms: His left arm is modeled after a traditional Japanese screen, a decorative divider used in the home. His forearm features blossoms with a samurai warrior. His right arm is what he calls a “collage of old school and new school.” His upper arm features the green devil from an old print ad for Maurin Quina, a French aperitif. On his forearm is the Catholic sacred heart. He says, “I grew up religious, but turned from organized religion in college. I’m still very spiritual and getting the sacred heart was a symbol of that.” He also has two skulls across his arm, the first a sugar skull from the Mexican celebration, the Day of the Dead. Chris says, “This holiday, literally translated, is a day for the dead and the children. It’s a celebration of loved ones who have passed and the continuity of life.” The second skull is paired with a banner that says “True til death” and it serves as a reminder to Chris to not only be a truthful person, but to be true to himself.

Chris also has a chest piece that he got after a dear friend passed away. The piece has the inscription “There but for the grace of God go I.” Chris says, “It’s a reminder that no matter how tough it gets, you have to stay humble.” It’s a policy that Chris puts into practice both in the kitchen and in the tattoo shop.

Panzanella with Roasted Acorn Squash

YIELDS 4 SERVINGS

FOR HERBED GOAT CHEESE:

1⁄2 pound fresh goat cheese

1⁄4 cup minced chives

1⁄4 cup minced parsley

1⁄4 cup minced tarragon

1 ounce lemon juice

FOR DRESSING:

1 cup peeled garlic cloves

Blended oil, as needed

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 cup champagne vinegar

3 cups extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper, to taste

FOR ACORN SQUASH:

1 large acorn squash

1⁄4 cup brown sugar

1⁄2 shallot, sliced into 1⁄8” rings

1 tablespoon paprika

2 sprigs rosemary

2 sprigs thyme

Salt and black pepper, as needed

Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed

FOR SEEDS:

Seeds from 1 large acorn squash

Extra-virgin olive oil, enough to lightly coat the seeds

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

FOR CROUTONS:

1 loaf artisan sourdough bread (cut off crust and cut into 1" × 1" cubes)

Salt and pepper, to taste

TO COMPLETE:

1⁄2 pound baby arugula

1⁄2 bulb fennel, shaved on a mandoline

1⁄2 red onion, julienned

1⁄2 cup toasted pecans

1 cup shaved three-month-old manchego cheese

  1. For Herbed Goat Cheese: In a food processor, place goat cheese, herbs, and lemon juice. Blend until smooth and the goat cheese turns bright green.
  2. For Dressing: In an ovensafe pan, put garlic and just enough oil to cover. Wrap with aluminum foil and roast at 350°F for about 45 minutes until the garlic is soft. Strain the oil and reserve for croutons. In a food processor, purée the garlic cloves until smooth. In a blender, place Dijon mustard, vinegar, and 2 tablespoons of roasted garlic purée. Turn blender on high speed and slowly drizzle in the olive oil to create an emulsification. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
  3. For Acorn Squash: Cut the squash in half and remove the seeds. Reserve the seeds for garnish. Toss the squash in a bowl with the brown sugar, shallot rings, paprika, rosemary, thyme, salt, and pepper and drizzle with olive oil until coated. Bake the squash at 350°F until the squash is soft, but not mushy, about 30 to 45 minutes. Once done, let the squash cool to room temperature and then remove the skin with a knife. Cut the squash into large cubes, about 1⁄2” × 1⁄2”.
  4. For Seeds: Toast the squash seeds in the 350°F oven until they are dry and crunchy, about 25 minutes. Be careful not to burn them. Toss the dried seeds in olive oil and season with salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper.
  5. For Croutons: Toss the sourdough in garlic oil (reserved from the garlic roasting process) and season with salt and pepper. Place in oven at 350°F until golden brown and crunchy on the outside but soft and warm on the inside, about 5 minutes. Remove from oven and use immediately.
  6. To Complete: In a bowl, smear the Herbed Goat Cheese along the bottom and one edge of the bowl. Once the Croutons are done, place them in a mixing bowl with warmed up Acorn Squash, arugula, fennel, and onion. Toss with small amounts of Dressing, adding Dressing until the salad is dressed properly (enough to taste both the dressing and the elements of the salad). Place salad mixture in a line in the bowl. Top with toasted pecans, Seeds, and shaved manchego cheese. Serve while Croutons and Acorn Squash are still warm.

NOTES FROM THE CHEF

Shave the manchego cheese using a peeler for best results.