The breeding of such tiny dogs requires a huge commitment, starting before the mating even takes place.

Breeding and Whelping

So you think you want to breed your Chihuahua bitch? Before you can answer that question, let’s take a thorough look at what’s involved with breeding the world’s smallest dog. After all, breeding is not something to undertake lightly, and it’s critical that you make an informed decision. It doesn’t take an expert to recognize that pet overpopulation is a big problem in our society today. Indiscriminately bred cats and dogs are coming into this world unwanted, ending up abandoned in animal shelters or rescues if they’re lucky, or discarded and abused if they’re not. Too often people buy a dog, especially a tiny precious one like our breed, on impulse or as a gift for someone who really would rather have an accessory than a living animal to care for.

Now let’s talk specifically about breeding your own dog. First, there is the very real possibility that you could lose your bitch in labor. This is not a far-fetched statement. Breeding has risks associated with it. And Chihuahuas are not like other breeds, so those who have bred other dogs should take note. The most seasoned Chihuahua breeders can tell you stories that will make you shudder.

Are you prepared to lose a puppy? Overall, are you of the constitution that will be able to handle such losses? Breeders must have the compassion to care deeply about every puppy produced as well as the wherewithal to pick themselves up by their bootstraps and carry on. I feel that perhaps it is an addiction to the breed that keeps me going. I remember telling a fellow breeder after a particularly bad few days that if I could walk away from this breed, I would. But I can’t.

Second, can you afford to breed your Chihuahua? Breeding is rarely a money-making proposition with most dogs, and even less so with Chihuahuas, if done correctly. A caesarean section is a real possibility. I know that I rarely have a naturally delivered litter. Look at the apple-domed head of your little bitch and think of the birth canal that puppies have to travel through. Do you have the money set aside to pay your vet for a C-section? Is your veterinarian experienced in this surgery? Many vets these days have performed limited C-sections. If your veterinarian is not experienced in canine reproduction, and if the clinic is not a 24-hour facility, get a recommendation for the right vet and facility. You will need to make an appointment before you undertake the breeding. Please note that the local 24-hour emergency clinic is not a viable option for puppy deliveries.

Another financial consideration is the stud fee. This is probably the smallest part of what you will spend, but it is an expense nonetheless. You want to breed your Chihuahua bitch to the best dog you can find, who will complement your bitch’s pedigree and type. Shipping your girl or a dog’s semen will also add to your expenditures. Fresh chilled or frozen semen has made it easier to use a dog from just about anywhere, but this involves the added cost of inseminating your bitch.

Then, if all is successful, there is the veterinary care needed for the puppies. They may need dewclaws removed. They will definitely need a couple of checkups, which include puppy vaccinations, fecal examinations, and possibly worming. And if the puppies are not all healthy, how far are you willing to go? Will you be financially able to fix a cleft palate or treat a heart problem?

Third, are you willing to be responsible for these puppies for their entire lives? Your sales contract with clients always should include a “do not abandon” clause, meaning that you will always take back a dog that you sold. Even though you will thoroughly screen prospective owners, circumstances change and things do happen. Are you prepared to care for a returned puppy or older dog? Every responsible breeder must be ready to be a resource for their clients for the lifetime of their dogs, which, as you know, can be up to two decades.

Fourth, can you afford the time it takes for a litter? In the days leading up to your bitch’s due date, someone should be checking on the Chihuahua bitch every few hours. She may deliver as much as a week early and should not do so alone. Once born, the puppies will also need to be observed at regular intervals along with their mom, to be certain all is going well.

Fifth, but perhaps most important, do you have the support of your bitch’s breeder or other experienced Chihuahua breeders? Your own breeder who knows and cares about your girl is the best asset you will have. Hopefully he will be at your side or at least on the other end of the phone throughout the process. The experience and intuition of your girl’s breeder or another qualified breeder can be invaluable. If, however, your bitch’s breeder advises against breeding your bitch in the first place, take that advice.

WHAT’S NEXT?

Okay, you have decided you are up to the undertaking. Your bitch has her championship, so you know that she is of a quality deserving to reproduce, and/or her breeder is certain that she has something to add to the Chihuahua breed. Now, is she in shape? Pregnancy takes a toll on an animal, so starting with problems can only lead to more. Is she current on her vaccinations? Is she in good weight and her muscles well toned? If not, skip this season and get her in shape. What about dental health? There are considerable bacteria in the mouth. Be certain her teeth are clean.

I know you think she is perfect. You love this little Chihuahua. But every bitch does have her strengths and weaknesses. Identify them. Make a list. What do you need to correct the most? These will be the traits that you should look for in the prospective sire so that he can pass them on to his offspring. Are you clear on the practices of inbreeding, linebreeding, and outcrossing? Bone up on the details of breeding by referring to one of the great books on breeding—you’ll have time to read while you’re getting your girl in shape during that skipped season. The two books that have become the standard for breeding dogs are Patricia Craige Trotter’s Born to Win: Breed to Succeed and Richard G. Beauchamp’s Solving the Mysteries of Breed Type. Also, your breeder should be able to help you through this. Don’t go into it blind; ask lots of questions. Find out why this sire or why not that one. What about the movement? Can’t we get a better head here? You are not questioning the breeder’s knowledge but gaining your own.

WHELPING

The bible of whelping remains Muriel P. Lee’s The Whelping and Rearing of Puppies, which is a must-read before your puppies are born. As regards the whelping box in which the bitch is to deliver and bring up her litter, the advice of my mentor has been to use a wooden portable crib, or full size crib, if need be. The first ten inches or more of the sides are lined on the inside with Plexiglas to eliminate drafts and the chewing of the wood rails. Above this is wire. As cribs have one side that drops down to allow easy access, it facilitates your ability to get your hands in there to aid in the delivery and later on to attend to the puppies. Properly refurbished for pups, I have found these cribs to be easy to clean and maintain.

Because of their size, Chihuahuas have issues not found in most other breeds. Most of these issues are safety related. However, in regard to supplying a warm area for puppies to spend their first few weeks of life, we have an advantage. There are many beds available for dogs and cats that are made of fleece or artificial lamb’s wool. Find a style that has sides about 7 inches high and of a diameter that will fit into the whelping crib. I find 24-inch round best and have used smaller ones for singleton litters. Be certain the whole bed is washable; do not use one with a removable cover that would leave the foam padding exposed. The mother could scratch around enough to remove the covering. I set my cribs up with the bed on one end and papers on the other. If the mother jumps out of the bed with a pup still suckling it will be dislodged as the mom’s belly rubs against the sides of the bed. The fabric will also aid in keeping the puppies warm. I add a disk designed to be warmed in the microwave inside the bed. While I use a heating pad for the first twelve to twenty-four hours after birth, I have found the disks work better for me in the long run. The heating pad tends to make the area too warm for the dam and does not do much for the newborns. As a Chihuahua puppy starts life at about 3 ounces, it does not have the weight to apply to the bed and make enough contact with the heating pad underneath it so that the warmth can reach the puppy. The heated disk in a light fleece cover gives the puppy a place to climb onto or cuddle around for warmth in addition to mom. I have a good supply of beds and disk covers that keeps rotating from the crib to the laundry whenever there is a litter. The disks are also great for transporting pups home in comfort from the vet’s after a C-section. Mom will benefit from the warmth here too.

The litter snuggles up with one another for warmth and security.

Okay, your bitch was bred and is confirmed pregnant. You have made all of your preparations. Gestation is about sixty-three days. Operative word here is “about.” I have had Chihuahua bitches go into labor as much as seven days early and have a healthy litter. No, my count was not off, nor was there a chance that she was bred before I was aware. I have had some go five days past the last due date. Again, I was certain of the breeding dates. Every dog is different and every pregnancy can be, too. Mothers with multiple children reading this can attest to this. So, we have to be diligent as the bitch approaches the end of her pregnancy.

Taking her temperature has always been a good barometer for determining whether or not labor is imminent. The average temperature for a dog is 101 to 102° F. Generally temperatures will become lower about a week before delivery and get into the 99° range about twelve hours beforehand. I have found some of my girls are in the 99s for the week before and go into the 98s before labor. Restlessness, nesting behavior, and a failure to eat are even more sure signs that the bitch is ready to whelp. With the advances of veterinary medicine has come a progesterone test that can be done in about an hour at the vet clinic. While this test does not give a definitive reading, it gives a range. When the reading is in the lower range, you can be certain the puppies are on their way within the next twenty-four hours. This is a very useful tool if you do know that a C-section is needed. Certainly, it is more reliable than reading the signs, especially for the novice breeder, and will avoid the possibility of taking the puppies too early. Some breeders opt for doing this test every day or two beginning about day fifty-five. It helps planning for a C-section and can help you avoid waking your vet up at 1:00 a.m. Thanks to this test and the breeder’s intuition that I have developed, it has been years since I have gotten the vet out of bed in the middle of the night.

Just in case you have a natural whelping bitch, you should be aware of the signs of approaching labor. As her time comes near, the vulva will soften. You may notice a sticky discharge, which is normal. Uterine contractions during the first stage of labor are related to the dilation of the cervix. She may begin panting, tearing at her bedding, alternating between periods of rest and restlessness. The bitch will urinate more frequently. This may occur over several hours with increased frequency.

ECLAMPSIA

Knock on wood—I have never had a case of eclampsia. Eclampsia is a life-threatening condition. This disorder of calcium metabolism is seen in bitches who are about to whelp or have recently whelped and are nursing puppies. It is believed that excess calcium supplementation during pregnancy may predispose this problem. Eclampsia is also being seen in bitches fed raw diets. The excess supplementation raises serum calcium levels thus tricking the parathyroid glands into being less active. When the body calcium must be increased to provide for lactation, these glands are not able to respond effectively. Restlessness, salivation, lack of coordination, muscle stiffness, and, finally, convulsions are some of the signs of eclampsia. Intravenous calcium gluconate is necessary to save the bitch’s life. Prevention is the best approach. About half way through the pregnancy, I switch my bitch to a high-quality puppy food. The last week to ten days before her due date, my bitch gets a small amount of yogurt each day. This feeding pattern is followed throughout the nursing period. She is slowly changed over to adult food as the puppies are weaned.

In the second stage of labor, the puppies are delivered. You should be able to observe or, with your hand on her, feel stronger contractions. She may seem to be straining as if to eliminate but little or no urine or stool is produced. Vomiting may also be observed. Twenty to thirty minutes of constant contractions without a puppy being produced is the maximum. This constitutes the need to contact your veterinarian for an exam and possible C-section. If you observe a pattern of pushing/relaxing/pushing, you should be able to let her go about two hours. While some breeders may tell you that three to four hours is a safe timeline, you need to give your vet a warning call at the second hour. If this is after the veterinarian has closed, an answering service may be your first contact. By the time they notify the vet on call and he gets back to you, several minutes or a full hour could elapse. In the best-case scenario, you will be able to tell the veterinarian that the puppy has finally arrived and that all is well; you and your bitch are always better off safe than sorry. Even if this is happening within the hours of operation of the veterinary hospital, it takes time to transport your dog to the facility. If the assistance of the vet or vet technician is not enough to produce a puppy, the operating room and staff must be prepared. Any green, bloody red, or brown discharge before any puppies are born, at any time during the pregnancy, also necessitates an immediate call to the veterinarian. This is an indication of premature placental separation and at least one of the puppies is not getting oxygen. An immediate C-section is required. Such discharge after the birth of a puppy is normal.

If all is going well, the first thing you will see is the water bag as a bubble protruding from the vulva. This is a membrane whose purpose is to further dilation and to lubricate the birth canal. Do not break the membrane. It may break on its own, but that does not become an issue unless too much time passes after the breakage and allows for the birth canal to become dry. If you are unsure whether what you are seeing is the water sac, feel it. A membrane containing a puppy will be hard. Soon after you see the water bag, a puppy should be presented.

When a puppy is presented and all seems to be going well, it will generally be delivered in one to three contractions. Mom will rip open the sac, sever the umbilical cord, eat the placenta, and vigorously lick the pup to stimulate the puppy’s breathing and dry him off. If you are assisting and a puppy is partially presented but appears to not be making any more progress, you may be able to take hold of the presented part of the puppy with a washcloth. Gently pull on the puppy only as the bitch has a contraction. After the puppy emerges, the cord and placenta come next. Clamp the cord so the placenta is not allowed to retreat back into the bitch. Use two clamps, one about one inch from the puppy’s abdomen and one a bit away to allow you to cut in between. Clear the sac away from the puppy’s head before you cut the cord. Now the puppy can be dried and his breathing stimulated. Hold him head down to clear out fluid from the lungs. A bulb syringe will help to clear out his nostrils. Don’t forget to get back to the placenta. Wrap the visible portion in a cloth and gently tug. If it does not readily advance, there could be another puppy interfering so let it be. The clamp will not allow it to retract, and as the next puppy advances this placenta should too.

What can you do if the puppy is just not making its way out? Many a book will mention getting a few gloved fingers into the birth canal or a hand if the breed is large enough. These are not options with the Chihuahua, but all is not necessarily lost. If a puppy is barely being presented or is presented and then retreats, there are a few things that may work. All of the following are to be done while wearing sterile gloves on which lubricant has been applied. Use a finger to push the puppy back in, then lubricate all around him. He may need to be nudged in one direction or another to position him better. Sometimes his chin is tucked and the head is acting as a stopper. A finger circulating around the head may reposition it enough to allow passage down and out. Using a finger in the anal opening to hold a puppy in place may give the next contraction the chance to push forward a puppy that keeps presenting and retreating, never gaining ground. If it feels like the puppy is breech, you may be able to coax enough of the rear legs out to hold onto them with a washcloth. Be certain to only gently tug on the pup with a contraction and to pull in a motion between the bitch’s legs, toward her abdomen, in much the same direction as a tail that is tucked between a dog’s legs. Standing the bitch up, if she isn’t already doing so, may allow the birth canal to flex in such a way that delivery can occur. Sometimes a puppy can be literally massaged out from exterior pressure applied to the abdomen. Walking her around can help move a puppy down the birth canal. I have stood many a bitch up on her hind legs and successfully had a stuck puppy slither on out.

If this is not a single-puppy litter, you must be certain to have a warm dry place for the puppies to be placed when mom begins contractions for the next puppy. A good amount of towels—hand towels and washcloths are size appropriate—will be needed to dry off pups as well as to use for the mom. Whelping pups can be a messy procedure. Change the bedding between puppies. If your bitch appears to be resting between pups, this is a good time for the little ones already born to nurse.

It cannot be stressed enough that if you are not getting anywhere, you must make that phone call to your vet. You may be putting the puppies and your bitch at risk if you do nothing.

CAESAREAN SECTIONS

I am amazed that so many breeders are frightened by the word caesarean. Some of them are longtime breeders, and not all are Chihuahua people. I should probably say “I am now amazed,” as I now have access to the excellent veterinarians and staff of Suffield Veterinary Hospital (SVH). Unfortunately, many vets are still inexperienced at performing C-sections, which justifiably factors into many breeders’ belief that the procedure is highly risky. My first two Chi caesarean sections, which were not performed at SVH, did not result in any live puppies. I am thankful my bitch came out of them OK.

After our family moved to Suffield, Connecticut, a mere quarter mile from SVH, this facility quickly became our vet hospital. This is the type of practice that serious breeders need in their corner, the kind to search for in your area. The professional staff is proficient in reproductive procedures. Sitting in the waiting room is like attending a dog show. Many of the owners are the same faces I see on the weekends, people who have traveled just as far for vet care for their dogs as they travel for shows. Without such a support system, they know their breeding program would be less successful. I know I would not have gotten as far as I have. How many puppies and how many bitches would not be here today without excellent reproductive veterinary care?

Dr. Ann Huntington of SVH has kindly contributed the following discussion of caesarean sections. Dr. Huntington, a graduate of Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine, is one of five capable vets who practice at Suffield. Although she may refer to our Chihuahuas as a “peanutty breed,” I believe she likes these dogs. After all, she got one of mine for her father-in-law! She understands the apprehension that owners feel when their little bitch is undergoing a C-section, as she herself has been a dog breeder. Her late husband, Nick Mickelson, was an AKC Hunt Test judge. Together, the two bred Labrador Retrievers. Ann has also owned Pomeranians and a Border Terrier, along with a parrot, chickens, snakes, and whatever other creatures her two sons have introduced into the family through the years.

Ch. Toltec Dream A Little Dream LC with her litter just a few hours after her C-section.

A WORD ON C-SECTIONS

By Dr. Ann Huntington DVM

Puppies that cannot be delivered naturally need to have veterinary intervention, and sooner rather than later. It is always a tragedy to allow a bitch to labor too long, only to finally have fully formed dead puppies delivered by caesarean section. Those puppies were alive only a few minutes or hours earlier, and quick action might have saved them.

There are several reasons that natural delivery proves impossible. The puppy may simply be too large for the bitch’s pelvic canal. This is more common in one-puppy litters (the singleton puppies tend to be larger than average) but can occur in any litter. Some bitches may have unusually narrow pelvic canals, either congenitally or as a result of a pelvic injury.

Puppies may be hung up internally because of a poor presentation. For example, instead of presenting head first or rear feet first, a puppy may present front feet first with the head in front and rest of the body behind, forming a toggle that will never pass. Sometimes, instead of puppies taking turns sliding into the birth canal, two try to squeeze out at once, thus forming a logjam that prevents passage of either one. Another cause of trouble can be a twisted or torn uterus.

Occasionally bitches will have uterine inertia, a condition in which labor fails to occur at all. This condition, which is primarily due to failure of the normal hormonal changes that trigger labor, leaves the puppies in the uterus for too long. If you have passed day sixty-three after the last breeding or more than twenty-four hours after a significant temperature drop, be especially alert to subtle signs that things are amiss (reduced appetite, changes in posture, fatigue). Progesterone testing may not be helpful here, as in true inertia the progesterone often does not drop. An ultrasound can be very helpful, as puppies’ heart rates will start to drop when they are becoming stressed. A fetal heart rate below a rate of 120 is a plea for help, and soon.

Today, more and more breeders are opting to plan for a caesarean delivery rather than even let the bitch reach full labor. This might be because of the size of the bitch versus the size of the puppies, as estimated by a prenatal radiograph. Or it may be because this bitch has had a difficult labor in the past, in which one or more pups died during birth, and after carefully weighing all options, the breeder elects the C-section to try to prevent loss of the puppies. Some veterinarians urge C-sections in bitches that have had a previous section, but I have known many bitches to deliver naturally and easily with litters after having undergone a C-section. All options need to be weighed.

It is important to have this surgery performed by a team that is experienced and knowledgeable in caesarean deliveries. Proper anesthetic protocols, surgical technique, and experience reviving and handling newly delivered puppies all contribute to a successful outcome. Because of their small size, Chihuahuas undergoing surgery are at greater risk than most of hypothermia. They must be on towels or heated tables from start to finish. Intravenous fluids should be running to maintain fluid volume and blood pressure and to keep open venous access for any emergency medicines that may be needed.

The entire belly is carefully shaved and scrubbed with surgical disinfectant solutions. In some laid-back bitches, this can be done prior to sedation, allowing for shorter anesthetic times. In others, lying on the back for a shave is stressful and is more safely done after anesthesia has been started.

The best anesthetic protocol is the one the veterinary team is most experienced with. We currently use Propofol intravenously to induce anesthesia and sevoflurane gas to maintain anesthesia throughout the procedure. A local anesthetic injected along the surgical site will allow for the general anesthetic to be on a lighter plane and will assure a smoother, more comfortable postoperative period. Other protocols can be followed as long as the veterinarians are experienced with their effects and they cause minimal sedation of the unborn puppies.

Once anesthetized and prepped for surgery, the patient is transferred to the operating room. The surgeon makes a central incision between the rows of nipples long enough to allow for the uterus full of puppies to be brought out of the abdomen. An incision is made in the uterus itself, and the puppies and placentas are delivered one by one. The umbilical cord is clamped and the puppy passed to a waiting assistant. While the assistant rubs the puppy and aspirates fluid from its airway, the surgeon proceeds to the next puppy. Once every puppy has been delivered, the uterus is carefully sutured closed with two layers of stitches. The abdomen is checked for bleeding, the uterus is slipped back into the abdomen and the abdomen is closed, first with sutures in the muscular layer, then with another row of sutures in the subcutaneous tissue and skin. Because of the tendency of bitches to lick their incisions, and the extremely delicate skin on a Chihuahua’s belly, staples don’t work well and should be avoided. As the skin is being closed, the anesthetic gas concentration is gradually reduced.

As you can see, this is not a one-person operation. While the surgeon is operating, technicians must be available to check and clean each puppy as well as to closely monitor the anesthesia and patient’s condition. It is not unusual for three or four members of the veterinarian’s staff to be actively involved in a single caesarean section delivery.

As soon as the abdomen is completely closed, the gas anesthetic is turned off. Most bitches will awaken within one to five minutes, though some take longer. We use this time to offer a first meal to the newborn puppies. Once Mom is awake, there will be a time during which her world is still spinning and her new family can confuse her. It is very important that she be monitored carefully during this time to make sure she doesn’t harm her puppies.

Note that during the next four to six hours there will naturally be some vaginal bleeding. This is to be expected and not a cause for concern. There is a tendency on the part of some veterinarians to offer antibiotics after a major surgery such as a C-section—avoid this if possible! Any antibiotics given to the mother will find their way into the milk and then into the puppies. This is not good, as the newborn puppies are starting to establish a normal population of “good bacteria” in their intestines to aid in digestion. Antibiotics given to a nursing mother increase the risk of fading puppies. During the first forty-eight hours after surgery, a bitch’s temperature may hover around 104°F. This doesn’t necessarily indicate infection but could be the body’s inflammatory response to being invaded surgically. As long as your bitch is eating some, drinking, producing milk, and caring for her babies, don’t let this slight fever alone lead you to start antibiotics. It should pass by the third day.

Twice a day, roll your bitch onto her back and check the incision, wiping it with a gentle cleaner like a baby wipe if any dirt has been picked up. If it becomes red or swollen, if your bitch experiences poor appetite, or if a persistent fever develops, schedule a follow-up visit immediately. In our experience, complications from caesarean sections are extremely rare, but it is wise to be alert for any symptoms.

A FINAL WORD

It is both Dr. Huntington’s and my hope that her explanation will help you understand the caesarean section and the necessity of finding veterinary care that is knowledgeable. We also hope that, with this understanding, you can relax when you hand over your Chihuahua for surgery, as you now know what is taking place in the operating room. The unexpected does happen every day, but by going to the experts we decrease the odds that the unexpected event will have devastating effects or, ideally, prevent the unexpected event entirely. You start your breeding program by choosing your bitches and studs with great thought and care. The choice of a veterinary team to care for your animals should be given the same careful consideration.

PUPPIES

Once the puppies are delivered, either naturally or by caesarean, give the mom and her brood time to rest and bond. Be certain they are in a warm, quiet area. Remember, puppies need to be kept in the 80—85-degree range. If everything is going well, there is not much for you to do except feed mom, give her a chance to eliminate, and keep her and the bedding clean. If a C-section has been performed, it is not unusual for a bitch to take a day before she accepts the puppies. Some breeders have experienced as long as three days before the motherly instincts kick in. The more advanced the labor before the section is performed, the more of the natural hormones will have been released and generally the quicker it will be for the bitch to accept her new charges. The vet should have squirted some oxytocin into the abdomen prior to stitching her up. This will aid in letting down the milk. An additional shot of oxytocin is sometimes helpful if the milk does not come in well within a few days. It is crucial that the puppies get this first milk, the colostrum. The colostrum is different from the milk that will follow in the next twenty-four hours. The main difference, the important feature, is that it contains antibodies that will help protect the puppies from a variety of diseases during their first few weeks of life. However, it is not just milk that is different in the first day of life but also the ability of the puppy to take advantage of it, to absorb it.

A kitchen scale is sufficient for weighing new Chi puppies, who weigh only a few ounces.

During the time the bitch is not accepting her new brood I have found it beneficial to hold her down, stroking her and talking soothingly while the puppies are given a chance to latch on to the nipples. The tugging on her nipples seems to aid in the tugging on her heart; she begins to sense these are not alien beings but her babies. She may just lie there passively and allow them to nurse but not actively participate in their care. You will be required to stimulate urination and bowels and to keep the puppies clean. Soon she will be sniffing them, snuggling and licking them. In rare instances, a bitch may be aggressive toward the litter. In these cases she should never be left alone with the puppies until this stage passes. If she is particularly aggressive you may have to muzzle her or use an Elizabethan collar so she cannot injure the puppies.

I weigh pups twelve to twenty-four hours after birth, then once a day for the first few weeks. A postage scale is great, as it is accurate to the tenth of an ounce. The weight gain, or lack thereof, is an excellent barometer of whether or not things are truly going well. There have been times when I have had a puppy not gain but not lose for a few days, then begin to gain again. Others in the litter may be gaining right along. Although there is no way to substantiate this, I have developed a theory. As long as the puppy is vigorously nursing and well cared for by the Chihuahua mom, I am of the mind that the energy being consumed is going to internal growth that we are not aware of. Perhaps the puppy was a bit early being delivered and he is using the calories for development that would have occurred in the uterus. He does demand that you be diligent in your oversight of the litter so if things start going downhill, you have a chance to step in before it is too late. Don’t hesitate to supplement if you need to, even for your own peace of mind. It is hard to be patient and wait for weight gain. Another thing you might do is give a little help to the nursing pup by gently squeezing the nipple as it suckles. If the pup’s suction is poor or if it is a bit weak, it will not have to work so hard to fill its belly.

When things do go wrong, there is no cushion with puppies this small, no room for error. A Chihuahua pup may only be 3 ounces at birth. Anything that does not look right must be attended to immediately. If the litter consists of more than one puppy, the smallest ones may not be able to compete with their siblings for a nipple. My rule of thumb is to sit with them every few hours, protecting the small ones from being dislodged. Mother’s milk is the best food these little guys can get, and we want them to have the best shot at growing up healthy. If I have a bitch who is not eating well enough for good lactation, my first defense is to force-feed her, not to supplement the babies. Years ago, I had a litter of two where one little girl was 1.4 ounces at birth, the size of a lipstick tube, and her sister weighed 3.4 ounces. Mom was always a lackadaisical eater and was force-fed throughout the pregnancy. She was very attentive to both girls but continued her lack of interest in food into the nursing period. I never supplemented either pup, just fed mom and made certain the little one got on a nipple every few hours around the clock. At five months of age, Toltec’s Pocket Pup LC weighed in at 1.7 pounds. She now resides in Pennsylvania and has made it up to 3.5 pounds.

If you need to supplement a puppy, you may find the bottles available for puppies and kittens to have nipples larger then is comfortable for a very small Chihuahua puppy. The use of eye droppers or syringes where the milk is slowly released into the puppy’s mouth may be better. Tube feeding is a very efficient way to supplement. Instructions on how to tube feed are out there but the best teacher is the human who can stand beside you and show you how it is done. Many a puppy is lost due to the tubes not being properly inserted. Remember not to feed a chilled puppy as he cannot digest the formula. One quick and gentle way to warm such a pup is to tuck him into your shirt next to your skin.

Fernando (LEFT) weighed 3.1 ounces at birth and is projected to weight 4-¼ pounds as an adult. Q-Tip (RIGHT) weighed 3.0 ounces at birth and has a projected adult weight of 2-¼ pounds.

As the first few weeks go by, you will observe the change in the Chihuahua puppies. By around the second week you can determine which pups are going to be Long Coats. Furry cheeks are one of the first things you may notice. If the breeding is the result of a Long Coat bitch to a Long Coat dog, all you can expect are Long Coats, as this is the recessive gene. If it is a breeding of a Long Coat to a Smooth Coat or one of two Smooth Coats where both carry the Long Coat gene, the results may be a litter of mixed coats. This may be reflective of just my lines, but I find the Long Coats tend to have a slightly shorter tail. I may use the tail at birth to predict the “tale of the coat type” and see if I am right a few weeks later.

Eyes and ears are opening after two weeks. The little lumps of puppies will start to move around more; their play appears to be in slow motion. Once the pups reach about four weeks of age, take them out regularly and onto a fleece mat or perhaps a bathroom rug. I get down on my belly and go eye to eye with them and interact at their level for short periods of time. If you have not already been doing so, be certain to handle them, touching every part of their bodies. Let them get used to the human touch. At five weeks, they may venture off the mat and explore the room. Be certain that the area is puppy-proofed. At six weeks, they should be really motoring around the place.

One thing that I have observed over the years is the occasional puppy whose eyes open very early, sometimes even being open at birth. This puppy will only be sporting little slits of openings until the ten- to fourteen-day range when eyes normally open. My experience has shown these puppies to be more apt to be hydrocephalic.

WEANING

Next to being born, this is the most dangerous time for a Chihuahua puppy. Hypoglycemia is a concern for puppies that are not eating well. This can be a fatal condition and is easily avoided with your diligence. Once the puppies have developed enough to get on their feet and move about, they may have found mom’s food bowl and ventured a taste. Until six weeks of age, the occasional taste is really all that is needed, though a more formal introduction of food at five weeks is often accepted. Again, the mother’s milk is the best thing for a young pup, so don’t try to start the weaning too soon.

The size of the food that you offer a Chihuahua puppy is an issue both for ease of consumption and as a potential choking hazard. Some dog food producers have developed weaning formulas that are granular rather then kibble. Mixing these formulas with water or perhaps a canine milk replacement is a good way to start. The addition of high-quality canned puppy food to the weaning formula is the next step. I like to use the pureed meats available for human babies with the weaning formula if I have a particularly fussy eater. While mom is away enjoying some adult conversation with the other Chihuahuas or humans in the household and a bit of a respite, offer the puppies food. Puppies that readily partake are great to see. Those that are hesitant may accept your offering easier from your fingers. These puppies may just take a bit more time to begin eating.

As the course of introducing food progresses and the weaning begins in earnest, mom needs less food so that her milk can dry up. Nature itself, by the sheer passage of time, will begin to dry up the mammary glands. As this is happening, the puppies need more food provided from an outside source and that source is you. And they need it available at all times. I have found that most adult Chihuahuas are chow hounds and that a good percentage of my mothers will not share their food bowl, even with their own puppies. This does not allow me to leave the puppies with both mom and food, as I can never be certain that all the food is not being consumed by the Chihuahua bitch. To ensure adequate nourishment for the Chihuahua pups, I have to remove the dam from the litter. I have food available at all times, offering fresh food at least six times daily. This also includes getting up halfway through the night to be certain the puppies are stimulated to eat. For the first few days when mom is not their constant companion, offering the litter their mommy for a bit of nursing before bedtime or before you leave for any extended time may be helpful. This will most likely be more of a source of comfort than nutrition.

Little Lucky Luke gets a first glimpse of the big world around him.

What is important here is that the puppies are eating regularly and eating well. Check the gums to be certain they are a healthy pink and pinch the skin to be certain the puppy is well hydrated. When pinched, skin that is not hydrated remains puckered, not easily falling back into position on the skeleton. Be aware of energy levels and give careful attention to any pup that may seem to be getting lethargic. This is when hypoglycemia may rear its ugly head. As time progresses, the puppies will eagerly welcome the fresh food and you will be able to get back to a full night’s sleep.

SOCIALIZATION AND EDUCATION

Now that they are weaned, even more attention should be given to introducing the puppies to toys and situations around the house. The use of an exercise pen or two attached together with bedding, toys, and piddle pads in the area of your home where you congregate the most is ideal. This gives the pups the chance to absorb the sounds of life safely confined where they will not be stepped on and also the opportunity for you to let them loose when you can interact with them. Television, radios, children playing, and lots of chatter will be part of their day. It is the perfect time for paper training. I start out confining them to a small area that is mostly paper, directing a puppy looking for that special spot in which to eliminate onto those papers. Within a short period of time, more of the area is bare floor and the pen has grown in size. By the time a puppy is ten weeks of age, he is pretty well trained to the paper in my family room. I still put the puppies back in the cribs when I am not at home or for bedtime. Again, by ten weeks of age, the puppies know my schedule. I find them more frequently dry all night, even though papers have been available in the crib, waiting for me to bring them to the spot in the family room to do their thing. They know I am home at lunch time and will again try to wait for me. Those acquiring a new puppy should appreciate the small amount of effort it takes to accomplish this.

Until a puppy has had at least two of the series of the recommended vaccinations, I do not advise that he go outside or travel around town. Many people will avoid interacting with any outside dogs or stop attending dog shows when they have litters so as not to bring any diseases into their home. If I have been to a dog show, I completely change my clothes, most especially my shoes, and wash up thoroughly before I go near unvaccinated puppies. We are dealing with very small creatures where our room for error is nonexistent.

This does not mean that you cannot educate them in the ways of the world. Introducing them to varied toys and visitors, interacting with them, and exposing them to the sounds of your life begin the socialization process. Make an effort to pick up and examine puppies regularly. Every part of a puppy’s body should be touched, and the touch will be accepted, making it easier for him to have his ears cleaned, tolerate vet examinations, and the like. Get him used to having his nails cut and body groomed. When you are around to supervise, having a small crate available to play in and around is a great introduction to crates. Why I say that you must be around is that you do not want the ambitious pup to find himself on top of the crate and not be able to get down without hurting himself. As small as the Chihuahua puppy looks to you, there always seems to be the one that can get into a situation that he is not capable of safely extracting himself from.

As you raise your litter, be it a litter of one or of four or more, it is your job to give them the best start possible. You are truly obligated to give them and their new owners a good foundation on which to build, the result of which will be a healthy, happy Chihuahua, a good canine citizen, and a cherished addition to a loving family for years to come.

OTHER THINGS TO NOTE

I am not one to advocate using brood bitches. First, it does not guarantee that the litter will be delivered naturally. I have seen 4-pound Chihuahuas easily deliver and have seen 7- and 8-pound Chihuahuas that needed a caesarean section. I strongly believe that there is rarely a reason to breed a non-champion animal. Rarely but sometimes a reason does exist. Perhaps a breeder is losing a particularly good line and hopes to get a puppy from a breeding that will be able to carry it on. An injury may have disrupted a show career and the Chihuahua is of a quality that certainly would have finished. To use a larger bitch solely in an effort to avoid a C-section is not a responsible breeding practice. The genes that created this girl are being carried on to her puppies. Daddy is only supplying half. The aim of breeding dogs is to breed better, to breed toward the standard of perfection.

Breeding just to breed, for the sake of profit alone, is not ethical. Responsible ownership and breeding practices are essential. While this section has focused on the bitch, equal consideration should be given to the implications of allowing your male to sire a litter. More and more communities seem to be heading toward laws that restrict the ownership of intact dogs. Don’t give your community a reason to pass such a law. Think about what you are doing and what you are planning on doing in your breeding program. You are dealing with living, breathing creatures that deserve to be given the best chance at being a healthy and beautiful representatives of their breed. Our Chihuahuas deserve to be wanted, loved, and well cared for. All dogs do.