Index

Note: Page numbers in boldface refer to maps.

All page numbers refer to the print edition of One Thousand Roads to Mecca. Please use the search feature on your reader to locate the text that corresponds to the index entries below.

al-Abbasi, Ali Bey, 75–76, 123–57, 320–21

background of, 123

in Cairo, 124, 138–39

death of, 126

failed attempt to reach Medina, 125, 153–57

in Fez, 124, 131–33

in Marrakesh, 124, 133–36

in Mecca, 124–25, 140–47

pilgrimage to Arafat, 147–52

robbed, 152–53

route taken by, 123–25

rules guiding travels of, 125–26

Semelalia villa, 124, 133–35

in Tangier, 123–24, 126–31

Abbasid Empire, 6, 7, 33, 181n.

Abd al-Hamid II, Ottoman Sultan, 295n., 302, 321

Abd al-Rahman I, Amir of Cordoba, 33

Abd al-Salem, Moulay, Prince of Morocco, 133, 135–36, 154

Abdellah Hammoudi, 429, 539–63

Abdullah, King of Jordan, 408

Abdullah, son of Saʿud, 210

Abraham, xiv, xvii, 40, 82n., 99, 116n.

God’s testing of, xxi, xxin., xxiii, 80, 80n., 84, 84n., 471, 533

Abu al-Ala of Maʿarra, 15–16

Abu Bakr Dolaf osh-Shebli, Shaykh, 284, 284n.

Abu Daher, Qarmatian chief, 173–74

Abu Inan, Sultan of Morocco, 51, 53

Abu Mansur Shahmardan, Vizier of Fars, 29

Abu Noqta, Sharif, 150

Abu Numayy I, Sharif, 7

Abu Numayy II, Sharif, 7

Abu Qubays mountain, 21

Abu Saʿid, ruler of Lahsa, 27, 28

Abu Simbel, 88, 293

Adam, vii, xiv, xvii, xxiii, 82n., 97, 116, 117n., 150, 177, 467, 536, 536n.

Aden, 18, 22, 28, 74, 78, 235

Aden-Arabie (Nizan), 473

al-Adil, General, 61n.

Afghanistan, 3, 356

rail travel from, 267

African pilgrimage routes, from 1300–1900, 602

Ahmad, Pasha Izat, 219–20, 223, 230, 230, 233–34

Ahmadiyya, 540

Ahmed, Jalal Al-e, 541

Ahmed, Qanta, 564–590

Air travel, xxvi—xxvii, 423, 425, 447–48, 429, 473, 478–80, 497–99, 512, 517

Saudia national airline, 432

Aisha (wife of Muhammad), 206, 207–208, 208n., 551

Ajarima tribe of Bedouin, 60

Alchemy, 132, 199, 214

Al-e Ahmad, Jalal, 429, 445–74

background of, 445–47

at Jidda airport, 447, 448–50

in Mecca, 459–66

in Medina, 450–58

reasons for making the Hajj, 463, 473, 474

return flight, 473–74

sacrifice of sheep and, 447, 467–68, 470–73

Aleppo, 125, 158–59

population of, 173

Alexandria:

in Medieval period, 17–19, 36–37, 56

from 1503 to 1814, 88, 109–10, 122, 124

from 1853 to 1908, 195–196

Algiers:

Dey of, 101, 105, 105n., 106

revolution in, 136

slavery in, 100, 101–102, 102n., 104–107, 108

Ali, ibn Abu Talib, 38

Ali, Qasim, 226

Alid, 26, 26n.

AL-Llah (Meccan deity), xvi

Always Bells (Stegar), 338, 339–52

American travel writers, 475–92, 512–38

Amini, Husayn, Grand Mufti of Jerusalem, 490

Andalusia, 33

Angola, 101

Arab American Oil Company, 426n.

Arabia Deserta (Doughty), 292n., 414, 418, 508

Arabian Days: An Autobiography (Philby), 376–96

Arabia Felix, see Yemen

Arabian Transport Company, 425

Arabic, classical, 214–15

Arafat, Plain and Mountain of, xvii, xxii–xxiii, 304–306

in Medieval period, 13, 44–45

from 1503 to 1814, 97–99, 116, 147–51, 160, 174–82

from 1853 to 1908, 193, 254–58

from 1925 to 1933, 372–73, 379, 380, 383–87, 411–12, 414–16

from 1947 to 2000, 439, 442, 466–68, 487, 489, 507–508, 534–37, 561–562

highway system, 425, 427

motor vehicle travel to and from, 398, 411, 412, 425, 427, 429, 466–67, 513, 534

route from Mecca to Mina, Muzdalifa, and, 439, 441–42, 594

Rush from Arafat, 83n., 182, 425

Aramco, 426, 426n.

Aristotle, 33

Asad, Muhammad, 311, 312, 353–73

background of, 353–54

conversion of, 353, 359, 359n.

death of first wife, 353, 362–63, 371

ibn Saʿud and, 354, 355

in Jidda, 363–64

in Mecca, 366–71

route taken by, 360–62, 364–66

Asad, Pola, 354

Association for Promoting the Discovery of the Interior of Africa, 123, 123n., 158, 191n.

Astrology, 132–33

Astronomy, 132–33

Attash al-Wayt (River of Fire), 122

Australian travel writer, 337–52

Autobiography of Malcolm X, The (Malcolm X and Haley), 476, 478–92

Avicenna (Ibn Sina), 15, 15n.

Aydhab, port of, 35, 37, 58

al-Azhar University, 12, 213

al-Azraqi, Abu al-Walid Muhammad, 8, 172n., 172–73

Azzam, Dr. Omar, 484–85, 486

Bacon, Roger, 70

Badia y Leyblich, Domingo, see al-Abbasi, Ali Bey

Badr, 435, 435n., 451

Baghdad, 3, 12, 77

Baghdad caravan, xxvi, 4, 5

Baghdad Road, 5

Bahra, 334, 365

Baku, 268, 271–74

Balakhaneh oil field, 272

Baldwin, James, 476, 491

Balfour Declaration, 313

Balkans, 70

Balm of Gilead, 412

Banks, Sir Joseph, 123, 158, 159

Banks and banking:

absence of, 286, 289, 303

from 1947 to 2000, 425

letters of credit, 161, 286

see also Money changers

Banu Abbas tribe, 208

Banu Ali tribe, 286, 296, 297

Banu Harb tribe, xxv, 216, 397, 405

Banu Shayba tribe, 390

see also Shayba Clan; Keeper of the Keys

Banu Utayba tribe, xxv, 372, 428

al-Baqi’, 550

al-Baqiyyaʿ, (cemetery), 205, 205n., 298, 452, 452n.

Baraheni, Reza, 445

baraka, 553

Barakat dynasty, 7

Barbary Coast, 139

Basan Well, 178

Bashir Agha college, 213

Basra, 26–27, 29–31

Bastami, Beyazid, 460, 460n., 462

Batum, 274n., 274–75, 283–84

Baybars, al-Zahir, Mamluk Sultan, 181n., 208

Bayt Allah, 111, 114–17, 141

see also Kaʿba

Bayt al-Haram, see Haram mosque

Bedouins, xxv, 177–78, 181n., 234–36, 289, 294–97, 375, 466, 467

ibn Saʿud and, 315

pilgrim encounters with, xxv

in Medieval period, 13, 60

from 1503 to 1814, 83n., 89, 174

from 1853 to 1908, 220, 225–26, 233, 234–36, 294–97

from 1925 to 1933, 348–49, 405

from 1947 to 2000, 466–67

train travel and economy of, 186, 286, 294–96

see also individual tribes

Bedrihonem, 94

Beggars, 223–24, 227, 240, 251, 258, 260, 35051, 368, 390, 397, 405, 410–11, 443, 509

Begum of Bhopal, see Bhopal, Begum of

Berbers of Morocco, 397, 545

Bhopal, Begum of, 188–89, 219–36

banquet attended by, 227–29

letter from the Sharif of Mecca, 229–30

on Mecca, 226–27

Medina avoided by, 232–36

Bhopal, Begum of (continued)

misfortunes endured during Hajj by, 219–20, 221–23, 224–26

relatives accompanying, 220, 222, 224–26

royal caravan to Mecca from Jidda, 223–24

visit to Sharif’s harem, 230–32

Bibi Miriam, 235, 235n., 236

Black Death, 70

Black Like Me (Griffin), 491

Black Sea, 26768, 274n.

Black Stone, xxin.

in Medieval period, 28, 40, 43, 63, 65

from 1503 to 1814, 97, 112, 141–42

from 1853 to 1908, 193, 264

from 1925 to 1933, 369–70, 390, 391, 413–14

from 1947 to 2000, 463, 523, 525, 556

removed and returned, 28

reverence of, reasons for, 370

Blake, Alice, 337

Blue-rock pigeons, 254

Bogary, Hamza, 429, 431–44

background of, 432

employed by Hajj agent, 432, 440–44

journey from Mecca to Medina, 431, 433–37

in Medina, 438–39

trip to Mina, 441–44

Bonaparte, Joseph, 125

The Book of Earth’s Roads (Ibn Hawkal), 8

The Book of Routes and Provinces (Ibn Khurdadhbih), 8

Book of Travels (Khosraw), 11–31

Boorstin, Daniel J., 74

Borujerdi, Ayatollah Muhammad Husayn, 453, 453n.

Bosari (Pasha’s physician), 163–68

Bosnia, 70

Britain, 123, 166, 188, 335

disease prevention and, 268

ibn Saʿud and, 316, 375, 376

influence on the Hajj in last half of nineteenth century, 185–86, 192–93

mandate system in Middle East and, 314, 315

World War I and, 313

see also England

British (English) travel writers, accounts of, 100–22, 185–218, 237–66, 285–307, 374–417, 493–511

Bulaq, 139

Burckhardt, John Lewis, xxv, xxvi, 54, 75–76, 88n., 123, 125, 158–82, 185, 193, 194, 209n., 210, 213n., 215, 312, 321, 332, 385n., 410, 522, 522n., 530, 534

at Arafat, 176–82

background of, 158

death of, 160

disguises of, 158–59, 161–62, 169, 239

Haram Mosque, descriptions of, 160, 171

incorporation of earlier accounts by, 8, 160

in Jidda, 161–63

in London, 158–59

in Mecca, 159–60, 168–74

Niger River exploration and, 158–59, 160

other authors’ use of works by, 160

procession to Arafat, 174–76

at Ta’if, 163–68

Burial shroud, 118, 265, 463, 497

Burton, Sir Richard, ix, x, 8, 78, 81n., 82n., 83n., 188, 189, 191–218, 312, 410, 494, 522, 524

in Alexandria, 195–196

background of, 191

in Cairo, 197–200

on Damascus caravan to Mecca, 193, 215–18

disguises of, 192, 195, 196–197

as Indian physician, 199–204

as explorer, 191

incorporation of earlier accounts by, 8, 193–194

in Mecca, 193

Ismaʿili sect and, 192

on Medina, 193, 204–14, 217–18

route taken by, 192, 193, 195

Buses, see Motor vehicles, travel to pilgrimage sites by

Busra, 60

Cagliostro, Count (Giuseppe Balsamo), 213

caïd, 546–547

Cairo, 70

in Medieval period, 12, 18–20, 35, 59

from 1503 to 1814, 88, 121–22, 124, 138–39

from 1853 to 1908, 192, 197, 203

from 1925 to 1933, 319, 396

from 1947 to 2000, 476, 477, 478–79, 493, 494, 495–97

Mamluk rule of, 77, 124

Muslim power centered in, 3, 6

opening of the canal, 19–20

palace of the Sultan, 19

Sunni and Sh’ite control of, 7, 35

Cairo airport, 478–80, 497–98

Cairo caravan, xviii

in Medieval period, 4, 5

from 1503 to 1814, 80, 88–95, 97–99, 109, 118–21, 174

beginning of voyage, 91–92

lights for night travel, 119

notable sights, 93–94

order of march, 92–93, 119

preparations, 89–91

time for travel and rest, 92

Caliph, 48, 328, 328n.

as figurehead, 6

Prophet’s Mosque and, 206n., 206–209

see also names of individual caliphs

Camels, 349–50, 386–87, 532

bells of, 119, 175

howdahs borne by, 41

loss of, on departing Arafat, 182

mahmal, see Mahmal (camel-mounted ark)

milk from, 24

minimal water needs of, 121

motor vehicle travel along with, 380

shevria, see Shevria

shubreya (palanquin), 175, 215, 417

shugduf, see Shugduf, camel-borne

supplying of, 118–19, 175, 215–16, 240, 268, 280, 280n., 280, 299, 317

takhtruans (deluxe litter), 175

theft of, 121

Camus, Albert, 445

Canetti, Elias, 516

Caravan routes to Mecca and Medina, xxiv–xxvii, 423

advent of steamship and trains and, 186

in Medieval period, 4–5, 13, 34–35, 50, 52

from 1503 to 1814, 98, 108–9, 148, 158

from 1853 to 1908, 186, 215­–18, 220, 221

from 1925 to 1933, 314

protective guards, 24, 25, 423

trade along, 4, 8889, 91

see also Baghdad caravan; Cairo caravan; Damascus caravan; India, Hindi caravan; Jidda-Mecca caravan; Mecca, routes to Medina from; Maghrib caravan; Tayyara caravan; Yambu-Medina caravan route

Carlyle, Thomas, 160, 523

Cassius Clay, 482–83, 489

Cathcart, James, 102n.

Caucasus, rail travel from, 267, 274n.

Cervantes, Miguel de, 102n.

Chale, David, x

Charlemagne, 33

Chatillon, Reynald de, 34, 61n.

Chevron, 426n.

China, 51

Cholera, 186–87, 239, 265, 26869, 305, 496, 507–508

Christians, 51

accounts of Muslim pretenders, xiii, 312, 397, 410

from 1503 to 1814, 69–177

from 1853 to 1908, 185–218, 237–66, 285–307

forced conversions to Islam, 100, 102, 106

nineteenth century accounts by Muslim converts from Christianity, 311–419

Roman Catholic Church, 70–71, see Roman Catholic Church

as slave owners, 101

in Spain’s golden age of tolerance, 33

stoning of, 238, 251–53

twentieth century accounts by Muslim converts to Christianity, 319–52, 374–419

Christians at Mecca (Ralli), 188

Cobbold, Lady Evelyn, 311, 396–419

audience with the Pope, 396

background of, 396

Hajj rites performed by, 413–18

in Jidda, 396–97, 399–404

in Mecca, 411, 416–19

in Medina, 397, 406–10

route taken by, 396, 406, 410–12

Ibn Saʿud and, see Ibn Saʿud

Collins, Ella, 475

Conrad, Joseph, 185–86

Constantine, 55

Constantinople, 50, 157, 165, 166, 181, 210, 211, 214

Constantinople Agreement, 313

Córdoba, 4, 33–34

Cox, Sir Percy, 374375

Crowds and Power (Canetti), 516

Crusades, 32, 34, 35, 37, 57, 61n., 7071, 72

Dalil, see Guides

Damascus, 3, 72

in Medieval period, 52, 59–60

from 1853 to 1908, 288–290

from 1925 to 1933, 335

Pasha of, 174, 175, 178, 179–82

population of, 173

rail line to . . . from Medina, 285, 286, 289, 290–94, 295n., 295–97, 313, 321, 397, 40910

completion of, 186

Damascus caravan, xviii, 289

in Medieval period, 4, 5, 35, 60–62

from 1503 to 1814, 77, 98, 109, 148, 174, 175

from 1853 to 1908, 193, 215–18, 285

Damietta, city of, 57–58

Dante Alligheri, 70

Darb Sharki, 215

Darb Sultani road, 215

Davis, Ossie, 477

Day of Judgment, xxiii, xiiin., 40, 535

Day of Resurrection, 42

Day of Standing, xxii, 254, 305, 379, 384–86, 389, 487

Death of pilgrims, 65, 122, 226–27, 268–69, 326, 366, 394

Elsa Weiss, 353, 362–63, 371

will preparation prior to Hajj, 340

DeCaro, Lewis, Jr., 477

Defoe, Daniel, 103–104

Delhi, 4, 50, 53

Dervishes, 57, 114, 191, 192, 196, 197n.

Description of the Yearely Voyage or Pilgrimage of the Muslims, Turks, and Moors unto Arabia, A, 89–99

Desert processional, to Arafat

explanation of, xxii–xxiii

see also Arafat, Plain and Mountain of; Mina Valley; Muzdalifa

Devil, stoning of the, see Stoning rite

Dhu al-Hulayfa mosque, 62, 206, 206n.

al-Din, Munshi Saraj, 225

Dinesen, Isak, 285

al-Din Lu’lu,’ Husam, 37

Direction of prayer, xxi, xxin., 14, 14n., 205, 243, 369, 384

Dirʿiyya, 146, 209

Dix ans à travers d’Islam, 1834–1844 (Roche), x

Dos Passos, John, xxvi

Doughty, Charles Montagu, 292, 292n., 414, 418, 508

Doves of Mecca, 84n., 84

Dukkala, Ben Ahmad, 133

East India Company, 192

Ecclesiastes, 77

Eckehart, Johannes, 70

Effendi, Sadiq, Qadi of Mecca, 164–65, 166, 16768, 169, 181

Egypt, 34, 35, 36–37, 50, 51, 77, 139, 165, 166

see also Cairo

as British dependency, 185, 188, 314

Hajj visas, lottery for, 494, 495

from 1925 to 1933, 319

Six-Day War and, 494, 495

travel to Mecca from:

Cairo caravan, see Cairo caravan

in Medieval period, 16–19, 36–40

Elijah Muhammad, 475–76, 483, 487–88, 49091

England, 102, 103, 124, 165

slave trade and, 101

see also Britain

English (British) travel writers, accounts of, 100–22, 185–218, 237–66, 285–307, 374–419, 493–511

Enlightenment, 123

Epidemics, 267, 507–508

cholera, 186–87, 239, 268, 269, 305, 496, 507–508

plague, 70, 122, 329

quarantine stations, see Quarantine stations

smallpox, 265, 496, 507

typhus, 265

Eraif, Shaykh Abdullah, 491

Ethiopia, 80–81

Euclid, 33

European Christians, accounts by, 312–13, 397, 402, 410

evolution of Western travel writing about the East, 71–76

from 1503 to 1814, 71–182

from 1853 to 1908, 185–218, 237–66, 285–307

see also Western travel writing

European influence over Hajj travel from 1853 to 1908, 185–89

waning of, 319

see also Crusades

Eve, xiv, xvii, xxiii, 97–98, 116, 150, 467, 536n.

Eve’s tomb, Jidda, 223

Exxon, 426n.

Fabri, Felix, 73

Fahd ibn Abd al-Aziz, King, 555

Falaj, 24–26

Farahani, Mohammad Hosayn, 186, 18889, 267–84

in Baku, 268, 271–74

on Batum, 274–75, 283–84

on camel brokers, 280, 280n., 281

on guides, 277, 278n., 278–80

on quarantine stations, 268–69, 27677, 281–82

route taken by, 26769, 270–71, 274–76, 604

train travel, 267, 274–76

Fars, 30, 31

Fasi, Muhammad ibn Ahmad al-, 173, 173n., 522, 522n.

Fatima, Lady, 409

Fatimid Caliphate, 6, 11, 12

Fayez, Mohamed, 526, 529

al-Faysal, Abdullah Amir, Vice-Governor of the Hijaz, 403

Faysal, Muhammad, 492

Faysal ibn Abd al-Aziz al-Saʿud:

as Amir, Viceroy of the Hijaz, 397, 402, 403, 410

as King of Saudi Arabia, 476–77, 489, 491–92

Feast of Fasting, 90n., 96

Feast of Sacrifice, xxiii, 96, 116, 117, 329, 393–95, 412, 417, 418

see also Sacrifice, rite of

Fez, 124, 131–33

Fictional accounts of travel to Mecca, 71–74

The Fifth Pillar: The Story of a Pilgrimage to Mecca and Medina (Khalifa), 493, 495–511

Flooding of Mecca, 239, 262–65

Flying caravan, see Tayyara caravan

France:

disease prevention and, 268

influence on the Hajj, 186

mandate system in the Middle East and, 314, 315, 335

slave trade and, 101

World War I and, 313

Franciscans, 70

Frankfurter Zeitung, 353, 357

Freud, Sigmund, 7475, 353

Fruits, 65

dates, 26, 28, 65, 94, 293, 351, 458

in Mecca, 24, 41, 95, 161, 351

al-Furaysh tribe, 437, 443

Gabriel, xvixvii, xxiii, 113, 117n., 141, 147, 177, 205

Galen, 33

Galician travel writer, 353–73

Gama, Vasco da, 74, 78

Garvey, Marcus, 475

Gerard of Cremona, 34

Ghalib, Sharif, 7, 124–25, 141, 143–45, 147, 151, 209, 209n.

Ghatghat tribe or community, 334n., 334–35

al-Ghazali, Muhammad, 234, 234n.

Gibraltar, region of Strait of, 599

Ginseng, 203

God’s House, see Haram Mosque

Gordon, General Charles George, 385, 385n.–86n.

Great Britain, see Britain

Great Depression, 316, 317, 376, 379

Great Mosque, see Haram Mosque

Grenada, 32, 34, 36

Griffin, John, 491

Grindlay, Captain Henry, 195

Guides, xxiv–xxv, 423

in Medieval period, 24–25

from 1503 to 1814, 111n., 111–12, 146–47, 168

from 1853 to 1908, 212, 228, 268, 277, 278n., 278–80, 280, 298

from 1925 to 1933, 317, 322–23, 325–26, 367, 413–14

from 1947 to 2000, 428, 448, 452, 458, 460, 480, 481, 482, 486–87, 495, 499, 500, 501, 507, 508, 515, 516, 526–27

female, 494

Hajja Thakafy (the “Turkish Tyrant”), 501, 502–503, 505, 507, 508, 510, 511

Gulek, Kasem, 490–91

Gurdjieff, George, xiii

Gypsies, 70

Hadda, 141, 225, 241–42, 380

The Hadj: An American’s Pilgrimage to Mecca (Wolfe), 513, 514–38

Hagar, xvii, 82n., 96, 99

grave of, xxi

rite of running and, xxii, 243, 462, 487, 520

Hajar al-Aswad, see Black Stone

Hajj:

Medieval period, accounts from, 3–67

essential conditions of, 391

from 1503 to 1814, 69–177

from 1853 to 1908, 185–307

from 1925 to 1933, 311–419

from 1947 to 2000, 423–538

renovation and expansion of sites, 424–27

security and safety, 427–28, 442, 443

travel arrangements and services, 428

history of, xiii

honeymooners on, xxiv, 464, 531

ibn Saud’s reforms, see Ibn Saʿud, Abd al-Aziz, the Hajj reformed under

limited to Muslims, see Haram or sacred territory, limited to Muslims

name change after, xxiv, 110, 115–16, 256, 393, 416, 516

numbers performing the, xiii, 240, 301, 321, 376, 379, 413

from 1947 to 2000, 423, 424, 426, 428, 490, 507, 512, 513, 516, 527

purpose of, xiii

redefined by Muhammad, xvii

requirements of, xx, 389, 515

rites of, see Rites of the Hajj

significance of, xxiv, 511, 538

slave accounts of, 100–22

surrogate pilgrims, 279, 279n., 416, 440–41, 470–71, 474

televising of, 427

timing of, xx, 379

al-Hakim bin-Amri ʿAllah (Fatimid Caliph), 18, 208

Hakim II, Ummayid caliph, 34

Hakluyt, Richard, 88

Haley, Alex, 476, 478

Halak Nisai, see Rites of Hajj, ritual haircut

Hama, population of, 173

Hamra, 155

Hamza, Fuʿad, 377, 378, 397, 402

Hamza, tomb of (uncle of Muhammad), 294, 296

Hanafi school of Sunni Islam, 59n., 63, 212, 212n.

Hanbali school of Sunni Islam, 59n., 63, 212, 212n., 382

Haram or sacred territory, xix, 299–300, 378, 383, 412, 414

limited to Muslims, xix, 187, 238, 287, 288–89, 292, 481, 500, 519

accounts of Muslim pretenders, xiii, 69–177, 185–218, 237–69, 285–307

Haram Mosque, Mecca, xix, xx–xxi, 596

in Medieval period, 11–12, 21–22, 40

Haram Mosque, Mecca (continued)

from 1503 to 1814, 95–96, 112–15, 141–43, 160, 168, 171

from 1853 to 1908, 246–47, 258, 263, 264

from 1925 to 1933, 320, 324, 352, 368, 378, 390, 413–14, 416, 418

from 1947 to 2000, 424, 426–27, 427–28, 446–47, 460–61, 486–87, 505–506, 520–25, 528–31, 575

flooding of Mecca and, 263, 264

gates to, 21, 81, 81n., 96, 112, 114, 117, 141, 168, 521, 530

plan of, 596

renovation and expansion of, 424, 426–27, 446–47, 450–51, 463, 486, 521

during World War I, 322

Harb tribe, 405

see also Banu Harb

Harem of Muhammad Ali, 164

Harem of Sharif of Mecca, 230–31

Harff, Arnold von, 74

Harkon, Shaykh Muhammad, 485

Hasa Desert, 13

Hasan Pasha, 164

al-Hasani, Abdullah, 58

Hashimite family, 7, 314n.

Hashish, 199, 199n.

Hastings, Battle of, 12

Health certificates, 186, 270

see also Epidemics; Medical examinations; Medical services on modern Hajj; Quarantine stations

Hermann of Carinthia, 34

Hermitage of Rabiʿ, 65

Herodotus, 203

Highways, xxvi, 425, 494, 531, 533

Hijaz Railway, 286, 289, 290–94, 295n., 295–96, 313, 321, 397, 410

completion of, 186

Hijaz region, xv, 552

in Medieval period, 35, 38, 39, 65

from 1503 to 1814, 77, 161, 162, 166, 179

from 1853 to 1908, 186, 187, 188–89, 195, 219, 220, 267, 269, 280, 281

warfare in, 286, 290, 294–97

from 1925 to 1933, 319, 375, 397

warfare in, 313, 315, 317, 321–22

from 1947 to 2000, 431, 518, 519

hydrography of, 195

sharifs of, xviii

see also Sharifs, of Mecca

during World War I, 313

Hindustani, 199, 264

see also Urdu.

Hippocrates, 33

Hira, see Mount Hira

Hiring of surrogate to make the pilgrimage, see Surrogate pilgrims

Hodgson, Marshall, 3

Holy Cities of Arabia, The (Rutter), 321–36

Horyallah, Ahmed, 491

Howdahs, 20, 41

Hu, 58

Hurgronje, Christian Snouck, 188n.

Husayn ibn Ali, Sharif, 7, 314, 315, 316, 319, 321, 328, 375, 397, 400, 405, 412

abdication of, xviii, 315, 405, 408

Arab Revolt and, 313

son as ruler of Transjordan, 408

sons as mandate rulers, 316, 316n.

Ibn al-Sarraj, college of, 58

Ibn al-Kalbi, 554

Ibn ʿArabi of Ronda, 34

ibn Aun, Sharif Abdullah ibn Muhammad, 220, 223, 224–25, 228–31, 233–34

Ibn Battuta, Muhammad ibn Abdullah, vii, xxv, 3, 4, 5, 8, 9, 50–66, 70

in Alexandria, 56

background of, 50

in Damascus, 59

on Damascus-Mecca caravan, 60–62

in Mecca, 62–66

in North Africa, 54–55

route taken by, 50–51, 54–62, 600–601

Sufism and, 51, 52

in Upper Egypt, 56–59

Ibn Hassan, Ahmad, 43–44

Ibn Hawkal, 8

Ibn Jubayr, Abu al-Husayn, vii, 3, 7, 9, 32–49, 53

in Alexandria, 36–37

background of, 32

in Jidda, 38–39

in Mecca, 35–36

on the Red Sea, 37–38

route taken by, 35, 36–40

stay in Mecca described by, 40–49

Ibn Juzayy, 53–54

Ibn Khurdadhbih, 8

Ibn Majid, 74

ibn Marzuq, Shaykh Abu al-Abbas, 64–65

Ibn Qufil, Shaykh, 57

Ibn Rashid, Muhammad, 314, 315, 408

Ibn Rushd of Seville, 34

Ibn Saʿud, Abd al-Aziz, xviii, 314–17

absolute rule of, 327–28

bodyguard of, 384

camel corps of, 415

conquests of, 311, 314–15, 319, 408

coronation of, 315, 336

the Hajj reformed under, xviii, 316–17, 320, 348–49, 398, 400, 405, 494

oil in kingdom of, 316, 401–402, 413, 425, 426, 426n.

storytelling about, 407–408

travel writers meeting or observing,

Eldon Rutter and, 320, 324, 326–28, 332–36

Muhammad Asad and, 354, 355

Lady Cobbold and, 397, 398, 400, 402, 403, 411, 415, 416, 417, 419

St. John Philby and, 374, 375, 377–78, 380–81, 382, 383, 385, 387–89, 393–95, 399, 426n.

Winifred Stegar and, 350–51

Ibn Sina (Avicenna), 15, 15n.

Ibn Zayyan, Sultan of Tlemcen, 54

Id al-Adha (Feast of the Ram), see Feast of Sacrifice

Id al Fitr (Feast of Fasting), 90n., 96

Idols, xvi, xvii, 370

Ihram law and dress, 389

bodyguard of Ibn Saʿud, worn by, 384

in Medieval period, 22, 40

explanation of, xix–xx

from 1503 to 1814, 110–11, 115, 168, 174–75, 176

from 1853 to 1908, 279n., 286, 289, 299, 299n., 304

from 1925 to 1933, 360–61, 367, 400

from 1947 to 2000, 456, 460, 478–79, 496, 513, 517, 518

Ikhwan, 315, 320, 328, 334, 408, 412, 428

Ghatghat tribe or community of, 334n., 334–35

see also Wahhabis

India, 12, 50, 53, 168, 219, 220, 255

under Britain, 185, 188, 219, 220, 220n., 223, 237

Hindi caravan:

from 1503 to 1814, 109

from 1853 to 1908, 237, 240

Hindi residents in Mecca, 253

Lucknow and Mutiny of 1857, 262, 262n.

Muslim empire in, 4

proportion of Hindi pilgrims, 253

rail travel from, 267

travel writers from, 219–69

Inquisition, Spanish, 103, 187

Inquisition, the, 71

Iqbal, Muhammad, 354, 355

Iran, 357

banning of pilgrims coming from, 428

religious extremists in, 354

Shah of, 462–63

travel writer from, 445–74

see also Persia

Iraq, 22, 314, 334, 376, 425

banning of pilgrims from, 428

Basra, 2627, 29–31

Iraq Oil Company, 402

Irving, Washington, 160

Isaac, 80, 80n., 84, 84n.

Isbahani, Najm al-Din al-, 65–66

Ishmael, xvii, 82n., 99, 116n.

grave of, xxi

sacrifice of, God’s testing of Abraham with, xxi, xxin., 80n., 84n.

stoning of the devil, xxii

Islam:

ablutions, see wudu’

becoming a Muslim, ritual for, 359, 359n., 378

beginnings of, xvi–xvii

burial rites in, 265

European xenophobia and, 70–72

forced conversion to, 100, 102, 108

intellectual appeal of, 358

as major worldwide religion, vii, xiii, xv

misconceptions about, vii, 71, 103, 187–88, 370

Muhammad and, see Muhammad

Pillars of, xvii, 534

Shiʿite, see Shʿites

spread of, 3, 4, 51, 70, 219

Sunni, see Sunni Muslims

tradition of, xiv—xv

unifying factors of, 4, 149, 502

Western converts to:

early nineteenth century accounts of, 311–419

from 1960 to 2000, accounts of, 493–590

women, Muslim, see Women, Muslim

Ismaʿili sect of Shʿite Muslims, 11, 12, 192

Isphahani, Jamal al-Din al-Jawad al-, 45, 45n.

Israel, June 1967 war, 494, 495

Istanbul, viii, xxv, 88, 220n.

Istophan (freighter), 344–49

Italy, travel writers from, 77–99, 102

Itas, valley of, 62

Jabal Hindi, 334, 338

Jabal Nur, 113n., 147

see also Mount Hira

Jabal Qubays, see Abu Qubays mountain

Jabal al-Rahma, see Mercy, Mount

Jamarat, xxiii, 73

see also Stoning Rite

Jami’ al-Ammawi (Mosque of the Umayyads), 207

Jazʿ fortress, 24

Jehbir, 94

Jelani, 179

Jerome, Saint, 72

Jet age Hajj, 423–538

Jews, 51

anti-Semitism in Europe, 353

as slave owners, 101

in Spain’s golden age of tolerance, 33, 34

Spanish Inquisition and, 70

Jidda:

Arafat procession attended by people of, 176

customs duties and tax at, 39, 222–23, 348–49

in Medieval period, 38–40

from 1503 to 1814, 80, 111, 161, 162

from 1853 to 1908, 221–24, 276–77, 286, 287, 298–99

from 1925 to 1933, 319, 335, 348–49, 361–62, 363–64, 396–97, 398, 399–404, 408

European pilgrims detained in, 397, 399, 402

from 1947 to 2000, 494

highway system, 425, 494

Mamluk control of customs in, 77

steamship travel improving access to, 267–68

Jidda airport, 425, 447, 517–18

Hajj dormitories and medical clinic at, 447, 448–50, 481

Malcolm X detained at, 476, 480–84

Jidda to Mecca caravan, 39–40, 85, 86–87, 139–43, 240–42, 338, 349–52, 364–66

Jidda Palace Hotel, 485, 490

Jidda to Yanbu/Medina, 220

Jihad, 476

John of Segovia, 70

Jordan, 425

Jordan River, 72

Judgment Day, see Day of Judgment

Juhaiman, Ibn Muhammad ibn Saif al-Otaybi, 428

Kaʿba (House of Abraham, House of God), xx, xxi, 205, 556

ancient origins of, xvi, 82n., 370, 523

cover of, see Kiswa

as direction of prayer, see Direction of prayer

in Medieval period, 13, 22, 40, 42, 43, 48, 49, 63, 64

from 1503 to 1814, 81, 96, 97, 114–15, 141–42, 145–46

from 1853 to 1908, 193, 242–43, 245, 265

from 1925 to 1933, 324, 352, 368–69, 378, 390, 391, 392

from 1947 to 2000, 424, 460, 461, 462, 463, 486, 522, 523, 530–31

idols banished from, xvii, 370

Tawaf rite, see Tawaf

Kamal, Ahmad, 511, 511n., 526–27

Karachi, 340–41

Karak fortress, 61, 61n.

Keane, John F., 188, 189, 237–69

Arafat rites and, 254–57

arrival at Jidda, 240

background of, 239

as impostor, 238, 244, 256

Lady Venus and, 238, 248–51, 256, 260–62

in Mecca, 243–54, 258–66, 269

return to Mecca from Arafat, 257–59

rites of the Hajj described by, 242–43

route taken by, 240–43

stoning by children, 238, 251–53

to Mecca from Jidda, 240–43

Keeper of the Keys of the Holy Places (Shayba Sahib), 230, 230n., 390

see also Shayba clan

Kenya: Land of Illusion (Cobbold), 398

al-Khabt road, 215

Khadija, 60

Khafir, see Protective guards

Khalifa, Saida Miller, 429, 493–511

at Cairo airport, 497–98

background of, 493, 494

harem as experienced by, 493, 499, 501–505, 507, 508, 509–10, 511

in Jidda, 494

in Mecca, 501–506, 509–11

at Mina and Arafat, 506–509

preparations for the pilgrimage, 495–97

Khalifa, Yusry, 493, 495–98, 500, 506, 508, 511

al-Khalij canal, 19–21

Khartoum, siege of, 385, 385n.–86n.

al-Khayif, mosque of, 24, 47, 328–29, 396, 412

Khosraw, Naser-e, ix, xxvi, xxvii, 3, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11–31, 32, 52, 192, 445, 474, 477, 513

background of, 11, 13

at Basra, 30–31

in Cairo, 19–21

dream that changed, 14

at Falaj, 25–27

Ismaʿili sect and, 11, 12, 192

at Jazʿ, 24–25

at Lahsa, 27–29

Mecca described by, 21–24

route taken by, 12, 13, 14–19, 598

to Taʿif, 24

at Yamama, 27

Khurasarv, 11, 18, 23, 41, 46, 47, 48

Kidnapping, 120–21, 220, 220n., 224–26, 434–35

Kiswa (cover for the Kaʿba), xxi

in Medieval period, 40, 48

from 1503 to 1814, 81, 81n., 82n., 89, 91, 109, 114, 141

from 1853 to 1908, 259

from 1925 to 1933, 368, 390, 391, 416

from 1947 to 2000, 523, 524

Kitchener, Horatio Herbert, 295n.

Lahsa, city of, 13, 27–29

Lane, Edward, 187

Larache, 137

Larking, John W., 19596

Lawrence, T. E., 313, 397

League of Nations, 314

Lee, Spike, 478

Lesser or Minor Pilgramage, see
Umra

Letters of credit, 161, 286

Libya, 50

Tripoli, 124

Lombardo, Marco de, 102

London, 100, 114, 123, 139, 158, 159, 167, 195, 221, 374

Lord Jim (Conrad), 185–86

Lost in the Crowd (Al-e Ahmad), 462, 463–92

Lucknow:

Hajj train from, 338, 339–40

Indian Mutiny of 1857 and, 261–62, 262n.

Luther, Martin, 103

Ma’amun, al-, 208

Mada’in Salih, 62n., 292–93

Maghrib caravan, 108–9, 602

Magid, Muhammad Abd al-Azziz, 485, 492

al-Mahdi, (Abbagid caliph), 208

al-Mahdi Muhammad Ahmad, 385, 385n.–86n.

Mahgama Sharia (Muslim high court), 483, 485, 500

Mahmal (camel-mounted ark), 89, 93, 174, 175, 181, 289

introduction of, 181n.

Mahmudiya college, 213

Mahomet and His Successors (Irving), 160

Maimonides, Moses, 34

Malaria, 291–92, 341

Malcolm X, vii, viii, 429, 475–92

background of, 475–76

conversion of, 476

death of, 477–78

detained at Jidda airport, 476, 480–84

flight from Cairo to Jidda, 478–80

Hajj as transforming experience for, 475, 477, 478, 487–89

Hajj rites performed by, 486–87, 489

Spike Lee’s film about, 478

mistaken for Cassius Clay, 482–83, 489

on racial discrimination in America, 490, 491

second visit to Mecca, 475, 489–92

Maliki school of Sunni Islam, 59, 59n., 63, 149, 152, 212, 212n.

Malta, 109, 159, 165

Mamluks, 7, 74–75, 77, 80, 83, 86, 88, 139

Mandate system, 314, 315, 335

Mandeville, Sir John, 73

Maqam Ibrahim, xxi, 142, 338

see also Station of Abraham

Al-Maqrizi, 181n.

Mardini, Mohamad, 517–18, 520, 521, 524, 527, 531, 532, 533

Marrakesh, 124, 133–36, 543

Marseilles, 268, 285

Marwa, Mount, 22, 142

run between Safa and, see Saʿy (rite of running)

Masaʿa, xx, xxii, 390, 392–93

from 1947 to 2000, 424, 447, 450, 525–26

see also Saʿy (rite of running)

Masʿad, Sharif, 144

Masaudi, 285, 286, 287, 290, 302–303, 306–307

Mashʿar al-Haram (Sacred Grove or Shrine), 23, 43, 45, 47, 442, 469

Masjid al Haram, see Haram Mosque

Masjid al-Nabi, see Prophet’s Mosque

Masjid Namira, see Mosque of Namira

Mas’ud of the Rahla, 216

Mataf (track around the Kaʿba), see Tawaf

al-Mazumayn, 182

Mecca:

appearance of Meccans, 63, 111–12

battles with Medina, xvii

in Medieval period, 21–24, 35–36, 40–49, 52, 62–66

power struggle between branches of Islam and, 6–7, 12–13

climate of, xv, 24, 113–14, 527–39

from 1503 to 1814, 79–81, 95–96, 113–14, 124–25, 141–47, 159–60, 168–74

from 1853 to 1908, 193, 226–28, 243–54, 258–66, 268, 269, 286, 287, 299–303

from 1925 to 1933, 320, 321–28, 352, 366–71, 411, 416–19

from 1947 to 2000, 425, 428, 429, 486–87, 489, 501–506, 509–11, 512–13, 518–31, 556, 574

highway system, 425

security and safety, 427–28

flooding of, 239, 262–64

fruits of, see Fruits, in Mecca

Mecca: (continued)

history of, xv–xix

housing in, 170–71, 227, 366, 367, 398, 428, 501

limited to Muslims, see Haram or sacred territory, limited to Muslims

maps, 594, 595

markets in, 21, 22, 41, 81, 117, 170, 227, 300, 301, 367, 461, 464–65, 510

marriages in, 227

motels in, 464, 478

motorized travel and, 416, 429, 486, 489, 494, 506, 512, 531–32

performance of Hajj by Meccans, 176, 431–32, 439

population of, xix, 173, 300–301, 513, 518

routes to Medina from, 35, 215–18, 232–36, 433–39

seasonal employment of Meccans in Hajj services, 432, 440–44

sharifs of, see Sharifs, of Mecca

travel to, see Travel to Mecca

travel writer from, 431–44

water in, see Water, in Mecca

Medical examinations, 341–44

see also Epidemics; Health certificates; Quarantine stations

Medical services on modern Hajj, 428, 450, 508, 527–28, 532

Medieval period, accounts from, 3–67

Medina:

battles with Meccans, xvii

in Medieval period, 62

from 1503 to 1814, 74, 125, 153, 156, 157, 160

from 1853 to 1908, 193, 204–14, 217–18, 286, 294, 297–98

from 1925 to 1933, 319, 335, 397, 398, 406–10

from 1947 to 2000, 438–39, 467–75, 540, 548, 554

failed attempts to reach, 125, 153–57, 220, 232–36

limited to Muslims, see Haram or sacred territory, limited to Muslims

literary, 213–15

motor travel to and from, 406, 451–52, 459, 494

rail line from Damascus to, 285, 286, 289, 290–94, 295n., 295–96, 313, 321, 397, 410

completion of, 186

routes to Mecca, 35, 214–18, 232–36

spread of Islam to, xvii

water in, 298, 447, 457–59

Meetings with Remarkable Men, (Gurdjieff), xiii

Meknes, Pasha of, 396

Mercy, Mount, xxii, xxiii, 36, 45, 46, 160, 177, 239, 256, 372, 383, 384, 415, 416, 466, 536–37

Adam’s Place of Prayer, xxiii, 177, 413

see also Arafat

Mesajid, 410

Mfarrash, Qadi Sidi-Abderrahman, 126

Middle Ages in Europe, 69–70, 69–71

Midnight hajjis, 527–28

Miller, Sonya, see Khalifa, Saida Miller

Mina Valley, xxii, xxiii, 148

in Medieval period, 24, 45, 47

from 1503 to 1814, 97, 99, 116, 151–53, 176

from 1853 to 1908, 255, 257, 304, 306–307

from 1925 to 1933, 328–29, 379, 381–82, 388, 389, 393–95, 416

from 1947 to 2000, 427, 428, 431, 441–44, 489, 506–507, 508–509, 532–33, 560-561, 576

highway systems, 425

motor vehicle travel to and from, 381, 398, 411–12, 415, 429, 468, 506, 531–34

route from Mecca to, Arafat, and Muzdalifa, 594

Minor or Lesser Pilgramage, see Umra

Mobil Oil, 426n.

A Modern Pilgrim in Mecca and A Siege in Sanaa (Wavell), 287–307

Monetary prerequisites placed on pilgrims, 187

Money changers, 281, 303, 450

Mongol invasions, 70, 77

Monotheism, prophetic, xiv, xix

Moon, eclipse of, 330

Moroccan Ministry of Islamic Affairs, 561-562

Morocco, 512, 514–16

in Medieval period, 3, 6, 32, 50, 53

from 1503 to 1814, 123, 124, 126–38

from 1925 to 1933, 397

from 1947 to 2000, 518, 519, 520–22, 541, 544, 546

Maliki rite and, 59n.

travel writers from, 50–66

Mosque of Abraham, 150

Mosque of al-Khayif, 328–29, 412

Mosque of Mercy, 150

Mosque of Muhammad, see Prophet’s Mosque

Mosque of Namira, 178, 328–29, 383, 534, 536

Motels, 447, 461

Motor vehicles, 425

traffic conditions, 429, 465–66, 489, 494, 513, 531, 532

travel to pilgrimage sites by:

from 1925 to 1933, 381, 387, 397, 398, 404–406, 406, 410–12, 417, 419

from 1947 to 2000, 423, 425, 429, 451–52, 459, 465–66, 468, 469, 486, 489, 494, 531–34

Mount Hira, 111, 533

see also Jabal Nur

Mudayyina, see Wahhabis

Mufti of Jerusalem, 443, 490

Muhammad, xiv, 53, 59n., 60, 61, 73, 113, 177, 296, 370, 382, 459n.

burial of, 206

in exile, xvii

Farewell Hajj, xvii, 62, 370, 383, 384, 412

grave site of, xxiv, 206, 208, 208n., 453

as mortal prophet, xv

mosque of, see Prophet’s Mosque

religious revelations of, xvi–xvii, 113, 370

Muhammad, Essid, 491

Muhammad, Wallace, 487

Muhammad Ali, Pasha of Cairo, 124, 159, 160, 162–66, 169, 174, 176, 178, 179–80, 209, 321

wife of, 178

Muhammad ibn Abd Allah, 551

Muhammad Khan, Faujdar, 231, 232, 234

Mukthir, Amir of Mecca, 39

Murshidi, Shakyh al-, 56–57

The Muslim from America (film), 491

Muslim Mosque, Incorporated, 477, 488

al-Mustansir, Sultan, 7, 12, 19n., 19–20

al-Mutasim, Abbasid Caliph, 209

Mutawwif, see Guides

Muzdalifa, xxiii, 83n.

in Medieval period, 23, 45, 47

from 1503 to 1814, 149, 152, 176, 182

from 1853 to 1908, 193

Muzdalifa (continued)

from 1925 to 1933, 383, 387–88, 414, 416

from 1947 to 2000, 425, 533, 534, 562–563

route from Mecca to Mina, Arafat, and, 594

al-Nafra, see Rush from Arafat

Nafzawi, Muhammad al-, 54–55

Nakhawalah sect, 453, 453n., 454–55, 456–57

Name change after the Hajj, xxiv, 110, 116–17, 393, 416, 516

Napoleon Bonaparte, 125, 158, 165

Nasser, Gamal Abdel, 485, 485n., 494

Nationalism in the Middle East, 315

Nation of Islam, 475–76, 477–78, 483, 487, 492

Nautical Directory (Ibn Majid), 74

Netherlands, 185

influence on pilgrim travel, 186

slave trade and, 101

New Hotel, Jidda, 397, 401–402

Niger River, exploration of, 158–59, 160

Nile River, 16–18

travel to Mecca along, 5, 59

Nixon, Richard, 426n.

Nizan, Paul, 473

North Africa, 50, 52, 54, 70, 124, 512

Muslim empire in, 4

Ockham, William, 70

Odjakli, Sayyid Ali, 162

Oil:

in Baku, 272

in Middle East, 314, 350, 413

in Saudi Arabia, 316, 401–402, 413, 425, 426, 426n.

Oman, 28

On Heroes, Hero Worship, and the Heroic in History (Carlyle), 160

On Those Caliphs and Sultans Who Performed the Pilgrimage in Person (Al-Maqrizi), 181n.

Ophir, gold mines of, 413

Opium, 198, 199n., 253, 256

Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries (OPEC), 426n.

Orientalism (Said), 69

Orphans, 302–303

Osman, Caliph, 206–207, 208

Osman, Pasha, 211

Ottoman Empire, xxix, 7, 75, 88, 186, 408

in nineteenth century, 124, 220, 278n., 282–83

warfare with Bedouins, 286, 289, 294–97, 405

World War I’s effect on, 313, 314, 605–606

Oujda, 136

Pahlavi, Muhammad Reza, Shah of Iran, xxix, 445–46

Pakistan, 354, 355–56

Palestine, 314

Paracelsus, 214

Pardoning of the pilgrims, 81–82

Paris, 125, 187, 408

Park, Mungo, 123

Pasha Adnan, Sharif, 335

Passports:

from 1503 to 1814, 167

from 1853 to 1908, 186, 276, 277, 283, 285, 287

from 1925 to 1933, 349, 404, 405, 418

from 1947 to 2000, 428, 479, 480, 481, 499

Perceval, Caussin de, 187

Perfumes, use of, 47, 63, 232, 232n., 510

Persia, 80

in Medieval period, 14–15

travel writers from, 11–31, 267–84

see also Iran

Persia and Persians (Benjamin), 274n.

Persia in Revolution (Hone and Dickinson), 274n.

Persian Gulf War, 428

A Personal Narrative of a Pilgrimage to al-Madinah and Meccah (Burton), 191–218

Peters, F. E., xi

Pharos lighthouse, 18n., 56

Philby, Dora, 396, 399, 401

Philby, Harry St. John Bridger, 311, 314, 374–95, 402, 426n., 431, 494, 531–32

background of, 374–75

Lady Evelyn Cobbold and, 396, 397, 399, 401, 404, 410

conversion of, 375, 377–78

as explorer, 375

Hajj rites performed by, 380–93

preparation for pilgrimage, 379–80

Pigeons, blue-rock, 254

Pilgrimage of Ahmad, x

A Pilgrimage to Mecca (Sikandar), 221–36

Pilgrimage to Mecca (Cobbold), 398, 399–419

A Pilgrim in Arabia (Philby), 379–95

Piracy on the high seas, 100, 101

Pitts, Joseph, xxv, 100–22, 194, 220n.

as author and scholar, 103104

background of, 100, 102

forced conversion to Islam, 100, 102, 106

Mecca and Hajj rites described by, 103, 111–18

owners of, 101–102, 106–8

as pilgrim’s slave, 76, 100, 108–21

return to Cairo, 118–22

route taken by, 109–11

sold into slavery, 100, 107–108

Plagiarism and borrowing in travel texts, 9, 54–55, 160, 193–194

Plague, 70, 122, 329

The Plague (Camus), 445

Plato, 33

Polo, Marco, 53, 71, 72–73

Poole, Elijah Muhammad, see Elijah Muhammad

Porte, 220, 220n.

Portugal:

explorers from, 74, 78

slave trade and, 101

Princeton University, 539

The Principal Navigations, Voyages, Traffiques, and Discoveries of the English Nation (Hakluyt), 88

Prophetic monotheism, xiv, xix

Prophet’s Mosque, xxiii–xxiv, 78, 204–12, 291, 438–39

establishment attached to, 210–12

from 1853 to 1908, 291, 293, 297

from 1925 to 1933, 397

from 1947 to 2000, 469

history of construction of, 204–209

Muhammad and history of, 204–206

Ptolemy, xv, 33, 74

Purda, 207n.

Qadiriyya order of Sufis, 192, 197

Qaʿit Bey, Mamluk Sultan, 208–209

Qalandariya dervishes, 57–58

Qarmatians sect, 173–74

Qays festival, 432, 439–40

Qibla, see Direction of prayer

Qitada dynasty in Mecca, 7–8, 62–63, 124

Qitada, Abu Azzi “al-Nabigha,” 7–8

Qitada, Abu Numayy, 7, 62

Qitada, Atayfa, 62–63

Qitada, Rumaytha, 62–63

Qitada, Sharif, xviii

Qoba (Quba) mosque, 459, 459n.

Quarantine stations, 186, 267, 268, 269, 277, 280–81, 287

corruption and fee collection, 268, 276, 277, 280–82

Quota system for pilgrim visas, 428

Quran, xiv–xv, xvii, 4, 43, 47, 49, 58, 59, 70, 153, 165, 176, 187, 192, 196, 208, 213, 214, 262, 358, 368, 370, 438, 529, 535

astrology as sin in, 133

Muhammad’s revelations, xvi–xvii, 113, 147, 370

preeminent status of, 16, 331

prohibition against usury and, 303

quoted, 25, 40, 48, 56, 62, 64, 187n., 293

Stambuli, 321

translations of, 70, 103, 321

al-Qurayn, 40

Quraysh, xvi, 177, 294, 419

Qus, 35, 59

Qutba al-Wukuf, 83n., 180

Qutb al-Din, 522, 522n.

Rabiʿ, hermitage of, 65

Rabigh, 110, 110n., 360, 404

Rafiʿ, Amir Muhammad al-, 60

Railroad, see Trains, travel by

Rakats, 21, 112, 113, 118, 177, 305, 415, 416, 486, 525

Ralli, Augustus, 188

Ramadan, 60, 65, 90, 163, 166–67, 243, 245, 296, 512, 514, 515

al-Rashid, Harun, 46, 46n., 215, 534

Raven’s Castle, see Karak fortress

Red Sea, 5, 139, 360

British influence of traffic in, 185

crossing the:

in Medieval period, 35, 37–39

from 1503 to 1814, 93, 110–11, 159

from 1925 to 1933, 338, 345, 360–62

from 1947 to 2000, 517, 574

from 1853 to 1908, 268

region of, 593

Renaissance, European, 34

Renan, Joseph-Ernest, 187

Renegados, 74–75, 77, 101, 104, 121

Rites of the Hajj, xix–xxiv

in Medieval period, 22–23, 24, 36, 40, 41–42, 43, 44–49, 52–53, 66

from 1503 to 1814, 81–84, 89, 96–99, 112, 115–17, 142–43, 145–53, 168–69, 174–83

from 1853 to 1908, 228, 229, 242–43, 304–307

from 1925 to 1933, 324–30, 370–71, 372–73, 378, 380–95, 413–18

from 1947 to 2000, 423, 460­–63, 464, 486–87, 489, 505–507, 513, 520–26, 531–38

Ritual Haircut, (Halak Nisai), 389, 393

in Medieval period, 23, 40

from 1503 to 1814, 116, 143, 150

from 1853 to 1908, 243

from 1947 to 2000, 487

sequence of, xxii, 89, 97n.

see also specific rites, e.g. Saʿy; Tawaf

Ritual and Belief in Morocco (Westermarck), 516

Riyadh, 399, 408, 449, 461, 567–571, 574

The Road to Mecca (Asad), 353, 355–73

Robbery, see Thieves

Robert of Ketton, 34, 103

Roches, Léon, x, 188n.

Roman Catholic Church, 70–71

Royal Geographic Society, 191, 191n., 192, 194, 375

Royal Society, 123, 158

Rumma, Dhu al-, 436, 436n.

Rush from Arafat, 83n., 182, 425

Russia, 185, 199

World War I and, 313

see also Soviet Union

Rutter, Eldon, 311, 319–36, 392, 526, 534

ibn Saʿud and, 320, 324, 326–28, 332–36

on Mecca, 320, 321–26, 327–28, 331–36

at Mina, 328–29

route taken by, 319

Rutter, Owen, x

Ryan, Sir Andrew, 377, 377n., 378, 396–97

Saʿad, Shaykh, 235, 236

Sacred Territory, see Haram or sacred territory

Sacred territory, see Haram

Sacrifice, rite of, 47, 48, 82–84, 96, 116, 393–95, 447, 468, 470–72

see also Feast of Sacrifice

Sacy, Silvestre de, 187

al-Sadiq, Ja’fur, 551

Safa, Mount, 21–22

running between Marwa and, see Masaʿa; Saʿy (rite of running)

al-Safra tribe, 443

Said, Edward, 69

Saladin, 35, 38–39, 61n.

al-Salih, al-Malik, 57

Salim, Sultan, 424

al-Samanhudi, 208

al-Sanusi, Muhammad Ibn Abdullah, 212–13

Sarah, xxi

Sardar, Ziauddin, 590

Saru tribes, 42–43, 46

al-Saʿud, Abd al-Aziz, 150, 151n.

al-Saʿud, Saʿud, 125, 148, 150, 151, 151n., 156, 209–10, 209n.

Saudia national airline, 432

Saudi Arabia, 316, 539, 589–590

economy of, 423

establishment of, 311

oil in, 316, 401–402, 413, 426, 426n.

Philby’s travels as source of cartography for, 375, 607

Saud ibn Abdul Aziz, 446

Saudi tribal family, 125, 148n., 151n., 315

Sawi, Shaykh Jamal al-Din al-, 57–58

Saʿy (rite of running), xxii, 13, 389

explanation of, xxii

in Medieval period, 22–23, 40

from 1503 to 1814, 97, 97n., 112, 112n., 143, 168

from 1853 to 1908, 243, 259

from 1925 to 1933, 38990, 392–93, 418

from 1947 to 2000, 447, 462–63, 487, 520, 525–26

Scientific expeditions, 123–57, 158–59, 160, 191, 192, 194

Sea routes to Mecca, 37–39, 109–10, 110–11, 124, 185–86, 192, 195, 344–48, 359–62

Security on modern Hajj, 427–29, 442, 443

Seljuk dynasty, 11, 77

Semelalia villa, 133–35

Sermons:

in Medieval period, 48–49, 63

from 1503 to 1814, 83, 83n., 98–99, 151, 179–81

from 1853 to 1908, 256, 257

from 1925 to 1933, 383, 415

Seville, 33

Sexual activity during the Hajj, suspension of, xx, 47, 389, 414

Shabestari, Saʿd od-Din Mahmud, 528, 528n.

Shaddel, Pesar-e, 22

Shadhili, al-, 58, 58n.

Shafiʿi school of Sunni Islam, 59n., 63, 212, 212n.

Sharia Law, 4, 433n.

Sharifs, xviii

of Mecca, 6–7

in Medieval period, 7

from 1503 to 1814, 94–95, 115

from 1853 to 1908, 187, 220, 278, 278n., 280n., 28081, 301

from 1925 to 1933, 313

Middle Eastern states ruled by Meccan sharifate, 314

see also individual sharifs

Shawarbi, Dr. Mahmoud Youssef, 479, 479n., 480, 487

Shayba clan, 335, 335n., 390

see also Banu Shayba; Keeper of the Keys

The Sheltered Quarter (Bogary), 431–32, 433–44

Shevria, 140, 147, 148

A Shiʿite Pilgrimage to Mecca (Farahani), 270–84

Shiʿites, 192, 333, 445, 540

beliefs of, 6

in Medieval period, 6–7, 11

sects of, see Ismaili, Qarmatiane, Zaydi

Shirazi, Daud, 12

Shrouds, burial, 118, 265, 463, 497

Shubreya (camel palanquin), 175, 175n., 215, 417

Shugduf, (camel litter), 9, 193, 215, 217, 224, 224n., 232, 241, 255, 329, 417, 434, 441–42

Sidi Muhammad, Sultan, 133, 134

Sikandar, Nawab, Begum of Bhopal, see Bhopal, Begum of

Six-Day War, 494

Six Months in Meccah (Keane), 240–66

Slavery, 398

accounts of European slaves, 102

Joseph Pitts’ experiences as a slave, 100–22

in Algiers, 100, 101, 104–106, 108

in Medieval period, 34, 36–37

Joseph Pitts’ account, 100–22

in Saudi Arabia, 403–404

in seventeenth century, 100–101, 104–106, 121

soldiers as slaves, 74–75, 76

Smallpox, 265, 496, 507

Socal, 426n.

Socony-Vacuum Company, 426n.

The Song of Roland, 33, 71

Sorakhani, fire temple at, 272–73

Soviet Union, 356–57, 529

see also Russia

Spain:

French invasion of, 125

golden age of tolerance in, 33–34

end of, 70, 71, 103

Muslim empire in, 4, 32, 33

slave trade and, 101

travel writers from, 32–49, 123–57

Standard Oil Company of California (Socal), 426n.

Standard Oil Company of New Jersey, 426n.

Station of Abraham, 63, 391, 525

in Medieval period, 21, 40, 48

see also Maqam Ibrahim

Steamship, travel by:

from 1853 to 1908, 186, 192, 220, 267, 276–77, 285

spread of epidemics and, 268

from 1925 to 1933, 319, 344–49, 359–62, 399

Peninsular and Oriental Company, 195, 236

Stegar, Winifred, 311, 337–52

arrival in Mecca, 351–52

background of, 337–38

on camel travel to Mecca from Jidda, 349–51

on ibn Saʿud, 348–49

at Jidda, 348–49

on medical examination, 341–44

route taken by, 338, 339–41, 344–52

on steamship travel, 344–48

Stoning rite, xxiii

in Medieval period, 23, 48

from 1503 to 1814, 84, 84n., 99, 117, 117n., 152

from 1925 to 1933, 328–29, 38889, 395, 416

see also Jamarat

Storytelling in Eastern tradition, 407–408

Suez, port of, 189, 235–36, 275–76, 319

Suez Canal, 186, 237, 267, 269, 494, 495

Sufis, 52, 192, 540

Suleyman the Magnificent Sultan, 209

al-Suleyman, Shaykh Abdullah (finance minister of Saudi Arabia), 378, 381

Suleyman, Sultan Moulay, Emperor of Morocco, 126–31, 133, 136, 137, 138

Suleyman Beg (son of Pasha of Mecca), 224, 225

Sultans, government by, 6

Sunni Muslims, 52, 192, 333, 476

beliefs of, 6

in classic Medieval period, 6–7, 35

sects of, see individual sects

Sunstroke, 527–28

Swiss travel writer, 158–82

Sykes, Colonel W., 195

Sykes-Picot Agreement, 313

Syria, 80, 314, 335

in Medieval period, 15–16

Syrian caravan, see Damascus caravan

Al-Tabrani, 205

Tabuk, 61

Ta’if, 23, 65, 161–68, 315

Takhtruans (deluxe camel litter), 175

Takruri people, 385, 385n., 394

Talbiyya (verses repeated in unison), xx, 242, 299, 518

Tangier:

Caïd of, 126–29

in Medieval period, 51, 54

from 1503 to 1814, 123–24, 126–31

Tanʿim, 41

Tawaf, rite of turning, 389

in Medieval period, 21, 43, 47–48, 64–65, 66, 82n.

expansion of area for, 424, 460–61

explanation of, xxii, xxiii–xxiv, 370–71

from 1503 to 1814, 82, 97, 97n., 112, 118, 142

from 1853 to 1908, 228, 230, 237, 243, 259, 264

from 1925 to 1933, 323, 324, 370–71, 378, 390–91, 413, 416–17, 418

from 1947 to 2000, 424, 447, 460–61, 46264, 486, 511, 513, 523–25, 526

Taxation of pilgrims, xviii, 39, 219–20, 348, 349, 494

Tayyara caravan, (flying caravan), 215, 215n.

by Sharif of Mecca, 145, 220

Televising the Hajj, 427

Tennis, city of, 16–17

Terrorism, 427–28

Texaco, 426n.

Thakafy, Hajj (guide), 501, 507, 508

Thakajy, Hajja, see Guides, female

Thamud, 61–62

Thieves, 5, 340, 405, 407, 410, 439, 439n.

from 1503 to 1814, 92, 121, 152–54, 157

from 1853 to 1908, 219, 283–84, 286, 293, 306–307

Thomson, Dr. Charles, 222, 222n.

Timbuktu, 158

Tlemcen, 54–55, 136

Toledo, 32, 34, 103

Toledo (ship), 403

Toothpicks, 510, 534

Trade:

in Medieval period, 4, 51

from 1503 to 1814, 71, 74, 8889, 91, 139, 140, 148

from 1853 to 1908, 185

Traffic, see Motor vehicles, traffic conditions

Train, travel by, 321

from 1853 to 1908, 186, 267, 274n., 274–76, 285–86, 290–94, 295n., 295–96

from 1925 to 1933, 313, 338, 339–40

Transcaucasian Railroad, 267, 274

Transjordan, 314, 334, 408

Travel liars, 73–74, 79, 103–104

Travels in Africa and Asia during the Years 1803–07 (Abbasi), 125, 126–57

Travels in Arabia (Burckhardt), 160, 161–82

Travels of Ibn Battuta, The (Ibn Battuta), 54–66

Travels of Ibn Jubayr, The (Ibn Jubayr), 36–49

Travels of Lucovico di Varthema (Varthema), 79–87

Travel to Mecca, 597, 603

African pilgrimage routes, from 1300–1900, 602

by airplane, see Air travel

by caravan, see Caravan routes

by sea, see Sea routes to Mecca

changes over the centuries, xxiv–xxvii, 186–87, 267–68, 423, 425, 428–29, 498–99

dangers of, xxv–xxvi

in Medieval period, 5–6, 25, 34–35, 39

from 1853 to 1908, 268–69

from 1947 to 2000, 427–28, 431, 434–35, 442, 443

kidnapping, see Kidnapping

from thieves, see Thieves

motor vehicles and, see Motor vehicles, travel to pilgrimage sites by

package tours, 530

by steamship, see Steamship, travel by

by train, see Train, travel by

see also under names of individual travel writers for routes and modes of transportation

Tripoli, 124, 137

True and Faithful Account of the Religion and Manners of the Mahometans (Pitts), 103, 104–22

Tunis, 4, 54–55

Turkey, see Ottoman Empire (Turkey)

Tussan Pasha, 167, 210

Typhoid, 496

Typhus, 265

Uhud, Mountain of, 293–94

Ukhaidir, valley of, 61

Ula, 62

Umar Ibn Abd al-Aziz, Caliph, 206, 208n.

Umayyads, 181n., 206n.

Banu Ummaya, 207

pluralistic nature of tradition of, 33

Umm Salima, 45, 45n.

Umra, xx

in Medieval period, 22–23, 40, 41–42, 43, 65

from 1503 to 1814, 168

from 1925 to 1933, 378

from 1947 to 2000, 520–26, 530

Unicorns of Mecca, 85, 85n.

United Nations, 355, 356

United States, travel writers from, 475–92, 512–38

Unromanticized East, The (Asad), 353

Urdu, 220, 220n., 237, 374

see also Hindustani

Usfuni, Najm al-Din al-, 65

Usury, 303

Utayba tribe, 372, 428

Uthred of Bolden, 69, 70

Vaccinations, 428, 496

Van der Pol (Dutch banker), 415

Varthema, Ludovico di, 75, 76, 77–87, 194

on the doves of Mecca, 84–85

on events between Mecca and Jidda, 85–87

exaggeration by, 81, 81n.

on Mecca, 79–81

on the pardoning in Mecca, 81–82

reasons for going to Mecca, 75

on sacrifices in Mecca, 82–84

on unicorns in the temple of Mecca, 85

Veil worn by Muslim women, 207n., 395, 405

Venus, Lady (née Macintosh) of Devon, 239, 248–50, 256, 261–62

Victoria, Queen, 220

Vienna, 353

Visas, 186, 269, 428, 494, 514, 519

quota system for pilgrim, 428

Voyage and Travels (Mandeville), 73

Wahba, Shaykh Hafiz, 399, 402

al-Wahhab, Muhammad Ibn Abd, 125, 147, 147n., 156, 403

Wahhabis, 172, 177, 403

Brotherhood of, see Ikhwan

control of Hijaz in 1925, 319, 320–21, 322–23, 325, 329

driven out of the Hijaz, 159, 160, 162, 172, 174, 209, 209n.

in 1807, 125, 145–47, 148, 149, 150–51, 152, 153–57

as ibn Saʿud’s army, 314–15

mahmal and, 181n.

policing of pilgrim route, 405, 418, 466

as puritanical sect, 181n., 316, 320, 403, 431

see also Ikhwan

Wahhabism, 540

Wali, Hajji (pilgrim friend of Burton), 198–199, 204

al-Walid (Umayyad Caliph), 206, 206n., 207, 207n.

Wallin, Georg, 188n.

Water, 120

at Arafat, 97, 258, 383, 412, 507

carried by each hajji, 120, 216, 236, 289, 340–41

in Jidda, 349

in Lahsa, 27

in Mecca, 22, 80, 171–72, 22627, 504, 525

see also Zamzam Well

in Medina, 297, 447

on modern Hajj, 428

at Mount Sinai, 282, 283

at Qurayn, 40

sand ablution, 120n.

scarcity of, 5, 80

at Tabuk, 61

at Thamud, 61

Watering Day, see Yawan al-Tarwiyya

Wavell, Archibald, 285, 285n.

Wavell, Arthur J. B., 186, 188, 189, 285–307, 312, 392

background of, 285

on Damascus, 288–290

Wavell, Arthur J. B. (continued)

disguise of, 285, 289

in Jidda, 286, 287, 298–99

on Mecca, 286, 287, 299–303

on Medina, 287, 294, 297–98

on Mina and Arafat, 304–307

route taken by, 285–86, 299–300

on train travel from Damascus to Medina, 285–86, 290–94

warfare in the Hijaz and, 286, 28990, 294–97

Weiss, Elsa, 353, 357–72

Weiss, Leopold, see Asad, Muhammad

Well of Zamzam, see Zamzam Well

West African Hajj caravan routes, 158, 160

Westermarck, Edward, 516

Western travel writing, xxvii–viii, xxxi, 69–76, 78–79, 88, 102, 188, 189, 193–194, 239, 312, 429

Defoe and, 103–104

Latin itinerario and, 71, 103

wonder books and, 72–73, 75, 78, 103

travel liars, 73–74, 79, 103104

Westruckness (Al-e Ahmad), 446

Wild, Hans, 102

William of Rubruck, 72–73

Willoughby-Osborne, Elizabeth, 219

Will preparation prior to departing for the Hajj, 340

Wolfe, Michael, 512–38

at Jidda airport, 513–14

in Mecca, 520–31, 538

on Mina and Arafat, 531–37

in Morocco, 512, 514–16

preparation for the Hajj, 512, 514–16

travel from Jidda to Mecca, 518–20

Women, Muslim, 230–32, 249–50, 398, 406–407, 413

accompanied on Hajj by male relative, 498

Muhammad Asad and rights of, 354

Begum of Bhopal, see Bhopal, Begum of

Lady Evelyn Cobbold, see Cobbold, Lady Evelyn

custom in Mecca during the Hajj, 328

see also Qays festival

garments for pilgrimage, xix, 361, 400, 404, 461–62, 496, 517

marriage and divorce in Mecca, 227–28

Saida Miller Khalifa, see Khalifa, Saida Miller

as percentage of 1970 Hajj, 493–94

Qays festival, 432, 439–40

rooming together on the Hajj, 493, 499, 501–505, 507, 508, 509–10, 511

Winifred Stegar, see Stegar, Winifred

veil worn by, 207n., 219, 395, 405

see also Guides, female

Wonder book, 72–73, 75, 78, 104

World Health Organization, 507

World War I, xviii, 311, 311n.,313, 322, 374

World War II, 354

Wudu’, ritual ablutions, 111n., 120n.

al-Wukuf, see Day of Standing

Yafiʿi, al-, 64

Yahya, Sharif, 178–79, 180

Yamama, 26

Yanbu, 153, 220, 319, 398, 408, 528

Yanbu-Medina caravan route, 153–57, 237

Yawm al-Tarwiyya, Watering Day, 380, 380n., 439, 467

Yawm al-Wukuf, see Day of Standing

Yemen, (Arabia Felix), 42, 46, 80, 319, 425

land routes through, 5

Yusuf, al-Muzaffar Shems al-Din, ruler of Yemen, 208

Zamzam, muezzin of, 63, 64

Zamzam Well, xx, 96, 140

chief of the, 141, 144, 146, 286, 301–302, 324–25

flooding of Mecca and, 265

as Meccan water source, xv, 171–72, 525

as part of Hajj rites, xxii

in Medieval period, 13, 21, 40, 40n., 43, 63–64

from 1503 to 1814, 82, 96, 97, 115, 117, 118, 142, 146

from 1853 to 1908, 265, 301–302

from 1925 to 1933, 324–25, 352, 391–92, 411

from 1947 to 2000, 461, 463, 487, 488, 525, 557

Zayd, Sharif, 215

Zaynab, tomb of, 551

Zubayda, Abbasid calipha, 45, 45n., 215, 381, 383, 384, 534