This section covers just the basics on traveling in Spain (for much more information, see Rick Steves Spain). You’ll find free advice on specific topics at www.ricksteves.com/tips.
Spain uses the euro currency: 1 euro (€) = about $1.10. To convert prices in euros to dollars, add about 10 percent: €20 = about $22, €50 = about $55. (Check www.oanda.com for the latest exchange rates.)
The standard way for travelers to get euros is to withdraw money from an ATM (known as a cajero automático) using a debit or credit card, ideally with a Visa or MasterCard logo. To keep your cash, cards, and valuables safe, wear a money belt.
Before departing, call your bank or credit-card company: Confirm that your card(s) will work overseas, ask about international transaction fees, and alert them that you’ll be making withdrawals in Europe. Also ask for the PIN number for your credit card—you may need it for Europe’s “chip-and-PIN” payment machines (see below; allow time for your bank to mail your PIN to you).
Dealing with “Chip and PIN”: Most credit and debit cards now have chips that authenticate and secure transactions. European cardholders insert their chip card into the payment slot, then enter a PIN. (For most US cards, you provide a signature.) Any American card, whether with a chip or an old-fashioned magnetic stripe, will work at Europe’s hotels, restaurants, and shops. But some self-service chip-and-PIN payment machines—such as those at train stations, toll roads, or unattended gas pumps—may not accept your card, even if you know the PIN. If your card won’t work, look for a cashier who can process the transaction manually—or pay in cash.
Dynamic Currency Conversion: If merchants or hoteliers offer to convert your purchase price into dollars (called dynamic currency conversion, or DCC), refuse this “service.” You’ll pay extra in fees for the expensive convenience of seeing your charge in dollars. If an ATM offers to “lock in” or “guarantee” your conversion rate, choose “proceed without conversion.” Other prompts might state, “You can be charged in dollars: Press YES for dollars, NO for euros.” Always choose the local currency.
The simplest solution is to bring your own device—mobile phone, tablet, or laptop—and use it just as you would at home (following the tips below, such as connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible).
To call Spain from a US or Canadian number: Whether you’re phoning from a landline, your own mobile phone, or a Skype account, you’re making an international call. Dial 011-34 and then the nine-digit number. (The 011 is our international access code, and 34 is Spain’s country code.) If dialing from a mobile phone, you can enter + in place of the international access code—press and hold the 0 key.
To call Spain from a European country: Dial 00-34 followed by the nine-digit number. (The 00 is Europe’s international access code.)
To call within Spain: Just dial the local nine-digit number.
To call from Spain to another country: Dial 00 followed by the country code (for example, 1 for the US or Canada), then the area code and number. If calling European countries whose phone numbers begin with 0, you’ll usually have to omit that 0 when you dial.
Tips: If you bring your own mobile phone, consider getting an international plan; most providers offer a global calling plan that cuts the per-minute cost of phone calls and texts, and a flat-fee data plan.
Use Wi-Fi whenever possible. Most hotels and many cafés offer free Wi-Fi, and you’ll likely also find it at tourist information offices, major museums, and public-transit hubs. With Wi-Fi you can use your phone or tablet to make free or inexpensive domestic and international calls via a calling app such as Skype, Face-Time, or Google+ Hangouts. When you can’t find Wi-Fi, you can use your cellular network to connect to the Internet, send texts, or make voice calls. When you’re done, avoid further charges by manually switching off “data roaming” or “cellular data.”
It’s possible to stay connected without a mobile phone. To make cheap international calls from any phone (even your hotel-room phone), you can buy a prepaid international phone card in Spain (called a tarjeta telefónica con código). Dial the toll-free access number, enter the card’s PIN code, then dial the number. Calling from your hotel-room phone without using an international phone card is usually expensive. Though they are disappearing in Spain, you may still find public pay phones in post offices and train stations. For more on phoning, see www.ricksteves.com/phoning. For a one-hour talk on “Traveling with a Mobile Device,” see www.ricksteves.com/travel-talks.
I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). I recommend reserving rooms in advance, particularly during peak season. Once your dates are set, check the specific price for your preferred stay at several hotels. You can do this either by comparing prices on Hotels.com or Booking.com, or by checking the hotels’ own websites. To get the best deal, contact my family-run hotels directly by phone or email. When you go direct, the owner avoids the 20 percent commission, giving them wiggle room to offer you a discount, a nicer room, or free breakfast. If you prefer to book online or are considering a hotel chain, it’s in your advantage to use the hotel’s website.
For complicated requests, send an email with the following information: number and type of rooms; number of nights; arrival date; departure date; and any special needs. Use the European style for writing dates: day/month/year. Hoteliers typically ask for your credit-card number as a deposit.
Some hotels are willing to make a deal to attract guests: Try emailing several to ask their best price. In general, hotel prices can soften if you do any of the following: offer to pay cash, stay at least three nights, or travel off-season.
Some hotels include Spain’s 10 percent IVA tax in the room price; others tack it onto your bill. When asking about prices, it’s smart to check about the room tax.
I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). By our standards, Spaniards eat late, having lunch—their biggest meal of the day—around 13:00-16:00, and dinner starting about 21:00. At restaurants, you can dine with tourists at 20:00, or with Spaniards if you wait until later.
For a fun early dinner at a bar, build a light meal out of tapas—small appetizer-sized portions of seafood, salads, meat-filled pastries, deep-fried tasties, and so on. Many of these are displayed behind glass, and you can point to what you want. Tapas typically cost about €5-10 a plate. While the smaller “tapa” size (which comes on a saucer-size plate) is handiest for maximum tasting opportunities, many bars sell only larger sizes: the ración (full portion, on a dinner plate) and media-ración (half-size portion). Jamón (hah-MOHN), an air-dried ham similar to prosciutto, is a Spanish staple. Other key terms include bocadillo (baguette sandwich), frito (fried), a la plancha (grilled), queso (cheese), tortilla (omelet), and surtido (assortment).
Many bars have three price tiers, which should be clearly posted: It’s cheapest to eat or drink while standing at the bar (barra), slightly more to sit at a table inside (mesa or salón), and most expensive to sit outside (terraza). Wherever you are, be assertive or you’ll never be served. Por favor (please) grabs the attention of the server or bartender. If you’re having tapas, don’t worry about paying as you go (the bartender keeps track). When you’re ready to leave, ask for the bill: “¿La cuenta?”
Tipping: To tip for a few tapas, round up to the nearest euro. At restaurants with table service, if a service charge is included in the bill, add about 5 percent; if it’s not, leave 10 percent.
By Train and Bus: For train schedules, visit Germany’s excellent all-Europe website (www.bahn.com) or Spain’s RENFE (www.renfe.com). Since trains can sell out, it’s smart to buy your tickets in advance at a travel agency (easiest), at the train station (can be crowded, be sure you’re in the right line; you’ll pay a five percent service fee at the ticket window), or online (at www.renfe.com). Be aware that the website rejects nearly every attempt to use a US credit card—use PayPal; or from the US try www.ricksteves.com/rail. Futuristic, high-speed trains (such as AVE) can be priced differently according to their time of departure. To see if a rail pass could save you money, check www.ricksteves.com/rail.
Buses pick up where the trains don’t go, reaching even small villages. But because routes are operated by various competing companies, it can be tricky to pin down schedules (check with local bus stations, tourist info offices, or www.movelia.es). For dirt-cheap long-distance bus fares, check out www.flixbus.co.uk.
By Plane: Consider covering long distances on a budget flight, which can be cheaper than a train or bus ride. For flights within Spain, check out www.vueling.com, www.iberia.com, or www.aireuropa.com; to other European cites, try www.easyjet.com and www.ryanair.com. To compare several budget airlines, see www.skyscanner.com.
By Car: It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US. If you’re planning a multicountry itinerary by car, be aware of often-astronomical international drop-off fees. For tips on your insurance options, see www.ricksteves.com/cdw, and for route planning, consult www.viamichelin.com. It’s also required that you carry an International Driving Permit (IDP), available at your local AAA office ($20 plus two passport-type photos, www.aaa.com).
Superhighways come with tolls, but save lots of time. Each toll road (autopista de peaje) has its own pricing structure, so tolls vary. Payment can be made in cash or by credit or debit card (credit-card-only lanes are labeled “vias automáticas”; cash lanes are “vias manuales”). Spaniards love to tailgate; otherwise, local road etiquette is similar to that in the US. Ask your car-rental company for details, or check the US State Department website (www.travel.state.gov, search for Spain in the “Learn about your destination” box, then click on “Travel and Transportation”).
A car is a worthless headache in cities—park it safely (get tips from your hotelier). As break-ins are common, be sure all of your valuables are out of sight and locked in the trunk, or even better, with you or in your hotel room.
Emergency Help: For police help, dial 091. To summon an ambulance, call 112. For passport problems, call the US Embassy (in Madrid, tel. 915-872-200) or the Canadian Embassy (in Madrid, tel. 913-828-400). If you have a minor illness, do as the locals do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know of the nearest medical and emergency services. For other concerns, get advice from your hotelier.
Theft or Loss: Spain has particularly hardworking pickpockets—wear a money belt. Assume beggars are pickpockets and any scuffle is simply a distraction by a team of thieves. If you stop for any commotion or show, put your hands in your pockets before someone else does.
To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy (listed earlier). Cancel and replace your credit and debit cards by calling these 24-hour US numbers collect: Visa—tel. 303/967-1096, MasterCard—tel. 636/722-7111, American Express—tel. 336/393-1111. In Spain, to make a collect call to the US, dial 900-99-0011; press zero or stay on the line for an operator. File a police report either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen rail passes or travel gear, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/help.
Time: Spain uses the 24-hour clock. It’s the same through 12:00 noon, then keep going: 13:00, 14:00, and so on. Spain, like most of continental Europe, is six/nine hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US.
Siesta and Paseo: Many Spaniards (especially in rural areas) still follow the traditional siesta schedule: From around 14:00 to 17:00, many businesses close as people go home for a big lunch with their family. Then they head back to work (and shops reopen) from about 17:00 to 21:00. (Many bigger stores stay open all day long, especially in cities.) Then, after a late dinner, whole families pour out of their apartments to enjoy the cool of the evening, stroll through the streets, and greet their neighbors—a custom called the paseo.
Sights: Major attractions can be swamped with visitors; carefully read and follow this book’s crowd-beating tips (visit at quieter times of day, or—where possible—reserve ahead). Opening and closing hours of sights can change unexpectedly; confirm the latest times on their websites or at the local tourist information office. At many churches, a modest dress code is encouraged and sometimes required (no bare shoulders or shorts).
Holidays and Festivals: Spain celebrates many holidays, which can close sights and attract crowds (book hotel rooms ahead). For more on holidays and festivals, check Spain’s website: www.spain.info. For a simple list showing major—though not all—events, see www.ricksteves.com/festivals.
Numbers and Stumblers: What Americans call the second floor of a building is the first floor in Europe. Europeans write dates as day/month/year, so Christmas 2019 is 25/12/19. Commas are decimal points and vice versa—a dollar and a half is 1,50, and there are 5.280 feet in a mile. Spain uses the metric system: A kilogram is 2.2 pounds; a liter is about a quart; and a kilometer is six-tenths of a mile.
This Snapshot guide is excerpted from my latest edition of Rick Steves Spain, is one of many titles in my ever-expanding series of guidebooks on European travel. I also produce a public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, and a public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves. My website, www.ricksteves.com, offers free travel information, a forum for travelers’ comments, guidebook updates, my travel blog, an online travel store, and information on European rail passes and our tours of Europe. If you’re bringing a mobile device, my free Rick Steves Audio Europe app features dozens of free, self-guided audio tours of the top sights in Europe, plus radio shows and travel interviews about Spain. You can get Rick Steves Audio Europe via Apple’s App Store, Google Play, or the Amazon Appstore. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/audioeurope.
Tourist Information: www.spain.info
Passports and Red Tape: www.travel.state.gov
Packing List: www.ricksteves.com/packing
Travel Insurance: www.ricksteves.com/insurance
Cheap Flights: www.kayak.com or www.google.com/flights
Airplane Carry-on Restrictions: www.tsa.gov/travelers
Updates for This Book: www.ricksteves.com/update
To share your tips, concerns, and discoveries after using this book, please fill out the survey at www.ricksteves.com/feedback. Thanks in advance.
Spanish has a guttural sound similar to the J in Baja California. In the phonetics, the symbol for this clearing-your-throat sound is the italicized h.
| English | Spanish | Pronunciation |
| Good day. | Buenos días. | bway-nohs dee-ahs |
| Do you speak English? | ¿Habla Usted inglés? | ah-blah oo-stehd een-glays |
| Yes. / No. | Sí. / No. | see / noh |
| I (don’t) understand. | (No) comprendo. | (noh) kohm-prehn-doh |
| Please. | Por favor. | por fah-bor |
| Thank you. | Gracias. | grah-thee-ahs |
| I’m sorry. | Lo siento. | loh see-ehn-toh |
| Excuse me. | Perdóneme. | pehr-doh-nay-may |
| (No) problem. | (No) problema. | (noh) proh-blay-mah |
| Good. | Bueno. | bway-noh |
| Goodbye. | Adiós. | ah-dee-ohs |
| one / two | uno / dos | oo-noh / dohs |
| three / four | tres / cuatro | trays / kwah-troh |
| five / six | cinco / seis | theen-koh / says |
| seven / eight | siete / ocho | see-eh-tay / oh-choh |
| nine / ten | nueve / diez | nway-bay / dee-ayth |
| How much is it? | ¿Cuánto cuesta? | kwahn-toh kway-stah |
| Write it? | ¿Me lo escribe? | may loh ay-skree-bay |
| Is it free? | ¿Es gratis? | ays grah-tees |
| Is it included? | ¿Está incluido? | ay-stah een-kloo-ee-doh |
| Where can I buy / find...? | ¿Dónde puedo comprar / encontrar...? | dohn-day pway-doh kohm-prar / ayn-kohn-trar |
| I’d like / We’d like... | Quiero / Queremos... | kee-ehr-oh / kehr-ay-mohs |
| ...a room. | ...una habitación. | oo-nah ah-bee-tah-thee-ohn |
| ...a ticket to ___. | ...un billete para ___. | oon bee-yeh-tay pah-rah ___ |
| Is it possible? | ¿Es posible? | ays poh-see-blay |
| Where is...? | ¿Dónde está...? | dohn-day ay-stah |
| ...the train station | ...la estación de trenes | lah ay-stah-thee-ohn day tray-nays |
| ...the bus station | ...la estación de autobuses | lah ay-stah-thee-ohn day ow-toh-boo-says |
| ...the tourist information office | ...la oficina de turismo | lah oh-fee-thee-nah day too-rees-moh |
| Where are the toilets? | ¿Dónde están los servicios? | dohn-day ay-stahn lohs sehr-bee-thee-ohs |
| men | hombres, caballeros | ohm-brays, kah-bah-yay-rohs |
| women | mujeres, damas | moo-heh-rays, dah-mahs |
| left / right | izquierda / derecha | eeth-kee-ehr-dah / day-ray-chah |
| straight | derecho | day-ray-choh |
| When do you open / close? | ¿A qué hora abren / cierran? | ah kay oh-rah ah-brehn / thee-ay-rahn |
| At what time? | ¿A qué hora? | ah kay oh-rah |
| Just a moment. | Un momento. | oon moh-mehn-toh |
| now / soon / later | ahora / pronto / más tarde | ah-oh-rah / prohn-toh / mahs tar-day |
| today / tomorrow | hoy / mañana | oy / mahn-yah-nah |
| English | Spanish | Pronunciation |
| I’d like / We’d like... | Quiero / Queremos... | kee-ehr-oh / kehr-ay-mohs |
| ...to reserve... | ...reservar... | ray-sehr-bar |
| ...a table for one / two. | ...una mesa para uno / dos. | oo-nah may-sah pah-rah oo-noh / dohs |
| Non-smoking. | No fumador. | noh foo-mah-dohr |
| Is this table free? | ¿Está esta mesa libre? | ay-stah ay-stah may-sah lee-bray |
| The menu (in English), please. | La carta (en inglés), por favor. | lah kar-tah (ayn een-glays) por fah-bor |
| service (not) included | servicio (no) incluido | sehr-bee-thee-oh (noh) een-kloo-ee-doh |
| cover charge | precio de entrada | pray-thee-oh day ayn-trah-dah |
| to go | para llevar | pah-rah yay-bar |
| with / without | con / sin | kohn / seen |
| and / or | y / o | ee / oh |
| menu (of the day) | menú (del día) | may-noo (dayl dee-ah) |
| specialty of the house | especialidad de la casa | ay-spay-thee-ah-lee-dahd day lah kah-sah |
| tourist menu | menú turístico | meh-noo too-ree-stee-koh |
| combination plate | plato combinado | plah-toh kohm-bee-nah-doh |
| appetizers | tapas | tah-pahs |
| bread | pan | pahn |
| cheese | queso | kay-soh |
| sandwich | bocadillo | boh-kah-dee-yoh |
| soup | sopa | soh-pah |
| salad | ensalada | ayn-sah-lah-dah |
| meat | carne | kar-nay |
| poultry | aves | ah-bays |
| fish | pescado | pay-skah-doh |
| seafood | marisco | mah-ree-skoh |
| fruit | fruta | froo-tah |
| vegetables | verduras | behr-doo-rahs |
| dessert | postres | poh-strays |
| tap water | agua del grifo | ah-gwah dayl gree-foh |
| mineral water | agua mineral | ah-gwah mee-nay-rahl |
| milk | leche | lay-chay |
| (orange) juice | zumo (de naranja) | thoo-moh (day nah-rahn-hah) |
| coffee | café | kah-feh |
| tea | té | tay |
| wine | vino | bee-noh |
| red / white | tinto / blanco | teen-toh / blahn-koh |
| glass / bottle | vaso / botella | bah-soh / boh-tay-yah |
| beer | cerveza | thehr-bay-thah |
| Cheers! | ¡Salud! | sah-lood |
| More. / Another. | Más. / Otro. | mahs / oh-troh |
| The same. | El mismo. | ehl mees-moh |
| The bill, please. | La cuenta, por favor. | lah kwayn-tah por fah-bor |
| tip | propina | proh-pee-nah |
| Delicious! | ¡Delicioso! | day-lee-thee-oh-soh |
For hundreds more pages of survival phrases for your trip to Spain, check out Rick Steves’ Spanish Phrase Book.